Fork oil drain screw?

[Nick_69]

Does anyone no if the SV folks have a drain screw so i can let the oil drain out

[Sid Squid]

No.

[barwel1992]

nope, the bolt on the bottom is for the damper rod, you have to remove the forks to drain them.

remove forks
remove top cap
remove spacer and washer
remove spring (oil will come out with the spring so make sure you have a covered area to work on)
turn forks up side down
compress the fork leg over and over again then compress and leave up side down for all the oil to drain

some people then wash them out, i didn't party because i didn't know what to use

[Nick_69]

Dam thats a shames coz i dont have a stand at all the hold the bike up

[metalhead19]

means ur gna have to borrow one, buy one or have a garage do it

[metalhead19]

Its really not hard to do. if i can do it anyone can ;)

[barwel1992]

you'd need somthing like an abba stand then a jack just behind the oil filter

mine stayed like this for a good 2 month's
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo16/barwell1992/P1040538-1.jpg

[metalhead19]

mine stayed like this for a good 2 month's

And whos fault is that ;)

[metalhead19]

Do recommend the abba stand though.

[barwel1992]

And whos fault is that ;)

the bloke that didn't send the yoke ;)

[metalhead19]

the bloke that didn't send the yoke ;)

=D>

[Nick_69]

looks like i will have a get a abba stand on my low funds

[TamSV]

Abba stand's not cheap if funds are low. You could just put the rear on a paddock stand and jack the front up under the engine. Maybe ratchet straps from the headstock to the garage rafters to help keep it stable.

Have you seen Kuku's thread? I'm sure he had his on beer crates.:)

[toby_smith]

I've had my forks up my carefully jacking the front with it on the side stand before. Creates a suprisingly stable triangle. Be careful though!

[Dicky Ticker]

If you are just changing the fork oil or springs there is no need to remove the forks.[Beer crate under engine]
Get a length of wooden dowel and a wire coat hanger.
Remove the top caps on the forks and measure the air gap and depth of fork oil,mark this on the wooden dowel for reference for replacing same
Remove the front axle
Up inside the bottom of the fork legs you will find an allan screw,remove this and the oil will drain out
Use the wire coathanger to lift out the springs if you are changing them.
Leave standing for a little while to ensure that all the oil has drained
Use the length of wooden dowel on to the base plate while you replace the allan screws
Replace the springs,refill with fresh fork oil[I would rec about 2.5 heavier weight than original and buy Mogul]
Use the marks on the dowel to set your oil level and air gap
Refit top assembly,spacers etc and adjust to required setting

1/2hour-45mins max-------------Job done

[yorkie_chris]

I've had my forks up my carefully jacking the front with it on the side stand before. Creates a suprisingly stable triangle. Be careful though!

+1

Easiest way

[yorkie_chris]

If you are just changing the fork oil or springs there is no need to remove the forks.[Beer crate under engine]
Get a length of wooden dowel and a wire coat hanger.
Remove the top caps on the forks and measure the air gap and depth of fork oil,mark this on the wooden dowel for reference for replacing same
Remove the front axle
Up inside the bottom of the fork legs you will find an allan screw,remove this and the oil will drain out
Use the wire coathanger to lift out the springs if you are changing them.
Leave standing for a little while to ensure that all the oil has drained
Use the length of wooden dowel on to the base plate while you replace the allan screws
Replace the springs,refill with fresh fork oil[I would rec about 2.5 heavier weight than original and buy Mogul]
Use the marks on the dowel to set your oil level and air gap
Refit top assembly,spacers etc and adjust to required setting

1/2hour-45mins max-------------Job done

I disagree on several counts there:

The allen bolt up the inside is not a drain, you're likely to have problems with holding the damper rod stationary to get it off. And you don't need to do it.
Plus you can't get all the abrasive crap out of the leg.
You should not measure fork oil air gap with the springs fitted. It should be measured with the fork legs fully compressed and springs and spacers removed for consistency.
Stock oil is a very thin 10W. Close to RSF7.5 when cold. I would recommend a 15W.

[Sid Squid]

The allen bolt up the inside is not a drain
This one, listen to this one.

[Dicky Ticker]

It works as a drain---my explanation was simplistic and all I can say is I have done it like this on five occasions and it works Getting the abrasive residue out once the rod has been withdrawn is easy with brake cleaning fluid and a cloth plus air line.The fork oil air gap suggested by me was as a rule of thumb without getting into to technical set ups for people who probably don't have the tools, equipment or know how.

I was trying to help the OP who apparently by his original post and lack of equipment does not have the expertise or finances to do the job professionally

Yes I would use a headstock stand and remove the forks completely for a rebuild but I got the impression it was only to change the oil---perhaps I was wrong to assume this

Another way is to use a syphon pump to remove the oil but I don't know of the OP has one,OK you may not get 100% of the old oil out but even if you have 95% new heavier grade oil it is going to be an improvement over the existing set up

Providing the air gap is correct to begin with and you are rebuilding with the same parts, compression is irrelevant as you are purely returning the forks to where they were and the air gap will be the same allowing time for the oil to settle

There is always more than one way to skin a cat and not always by the book. I was trying to save the OP a lot of work for something that can be done simply and quickly by somebody with basic skills------but I bow to your superior knowledge.

[williamturner1]

looks like i will have a get a abba stand on my low funds

If you can get to me (Postcode: RH5 6AP) before Friday 10pm then you can borrow my abba stand for 2 weeks while Im on holiday.You can collect 7am - 10pm. 07951 555 867

I've just (last 2days) overhauled my forks completely (New oil, dust seals, oil seals, bushes) so If you break something then Ill help you when Im back (sept 4th).

I have a givi box. If you put some Dumbells into the givi box (2x 10-15kg ish) and remove the front wheel then the bike will rest on its rear wheel and no need for dodgy jacking, or blocks of wood against front cylinder or any of that.

Equally, I have previously used a compression strap from grab rail of my sv to swing arm of friends SV to get front wheel off ground when using abba stand before.

[Nick_69]

If you can get to me (Postcode: RH5 6AP) before Friday 10pm then you can borrow my abba stand for 2 weeks while Im on holiday.You can collect 7am - 10pm. 07951 555 867

I've just (last 2days) overhauled my forks completely (New oil, dust seals, oil seals, bushes) so If you break something then Ill help you when Im back (sept 4th).

I have a givi box. If you put some Dumbells into the givi box (2x 10-15kg ish) and remove the front wheel then the bike will rest on its rear wheel and no need for dodgy jacking, or blocks of wood against front cylinder or any of that.

Equally, I have previously used a compression strap from grab rail of my sv to swing arm of friends SV to get front wheel off ground when using abba stand before.

Thanks for the offer. I went to spanner man and he did it all for me but cheers for the offer always nice to see the org spirit