Infamous stalling problems have returned

[danf1234]

Well, I thought I had solved my bikes stalling issue, by removing the TRE and gear indicator, and the problem returned while I was out at the weekend.

Exactly the same problem as before rolling off the throttle coming up to a roundabout / Junction and the throttle begins to drop just below 850 rpm. Sometimes it will hesitate and keep running, as the revs slowly creep back up to 1400. Sometimes it fails and cuts out. It starts immediately after pressing the ignition button again.

The problem I have is the fault is so intermittant it didn't do it when I had it in for its first service last week.

It is doing my head in now, because I am always expecting it to do when pulling up to a junction, and now I am hesitating rather than progressing.

The bike is a 2010 model L0, and I really wouldn't expect this.

Anyway tomorrow it is going back to York Suzuki and I have told them I don't want it back until it is sorted. I have filled the tank with petrol so they can ride the fookin thing until it faults at my expense.

Suerly it couldn't be something as simple as a spark plug could it? I am at my wits end now so its bye bye SV for a bit.:nomore:

[hongman]

Bad luck...keep us posted on what the dealers tell you.

Neither here nor there now but I'm guessing it idles ok?

[Sly]

That's what my K5 was doing. Grease around front HT, new plugs, throttle body balancing + TPS adjustment fixed it for me (but can't say which of the above made the crucial difference). How many miles have you done on your 2010 bike? The first throttle body balancing +TPS adjustment should be quite early in the service schedule I think as there is some initial bedding down, from what i've read.

Good luck with it.

[danf1234]

Done 700 miles. It's just had its first service late. Are you symptoms exactly the same as this i.e cutting out at low revs when approaching a stop?

I am gussing grease is to waterproof it so that won't make much difference. So if my symptoms and cause are same as yours it's either new plugs or throttle body balancing, or the TPS?

[danf1234]

Well it has gone back to York Suzuki today and they have agreed to give to bike a once over. It's such a nightmare to diagnose, because I can't make it do the fault and it is so intermittant.

Hopefully they can get it sorted either way as it is doing my nut in.

I am keeping my fingers crossed that I can get this sorted quickly cos the bike is faultless especially now it has the handle bar mod done to it.

Failing that I quite like the lok of the new V-Strom they have in the window lol!

[warrenhewitt10]

TPS

[danf1234]

TPS

Care to expand?

[warrenhewitt10]

certainly, Mine has done this only twice in 2.5 years, but its exactly as you describe, only mine did it after going very hard on it.

However I have another mate on here renman8957, his quite frequently doesnt idle and randomly cuts out when the revs drop. Usually he would just turn it off and on again and it would be ok for another while.

This first time mine did it i noticed it was idling a good 300rpm below normal, so it was just about idling. Then it cut out and wouldnt start again for about 15mins after this. But yes the problem appears to randomly come and go. Id take it back to the dealer and say this to them, I would have done this but the bike was out of warranty when it did it the first time and it was like £60 i think for a new one. I can live with it if it only does it 2 times in over 2 years for a bike that is used every day.

Both of our bikes are k3's however, you'd have thought suzuki would have sorted it by now. Is quite common on sv's according to my dealer....

[danf1234]

certainly, Mine has done this only twice in 2.5 years, but its exactly as you describe, only mine did it after going very hard on it.

However I have another mate on here renman8957, his quite frequently doesnt idle and randomly cuts out when the revs drop. Usually he would just turn it off and on again and it would be ok for another while.

This first time mine did it i noticed it was idling a good 300rpm below normal, so it was just about idling. Then it cut out and wouldnt start again for about 15mins after this. But yes the problem appears to randomly come and go. Id take it back to the dealer and say this to them, I would have done this but the bike was out of warranty when it did it the first time and it was like £60 i think for a new one. I can live with it if it only does it 2 times in over 2 years for a bike that is used every day.

Both of our bikes are k3's however, you'd have thought suzuki would have sorted it by now. Is quite common on sv's according to my dealer....


Mine sounds more like your friends fault, as mine will start again instantly everytime, infact most times it will restart while the wheels are still rolling. Never have I had the issue where it won't restart after.

So my next question is: Has he sorted his bike out, and if so how!

[Sir Trev]

Was it very cold out when it started to stall? Sure it's not just carb icing?? Have you tried the high octane fuel and/or ProFST additive route that a lot of people find very effective???

[kaivalagi]

Was it very cold out when it started to stall? Sure it's not just carb icing?? Have you tried the high octane fuel and/or ProFST additive route that a lot of people find very effective???

2010 SV is fuel injected

I also have a 2010 SV sport, hope I don't come a cropper! Only at 350 miles so far

Was it happening before the first service? Just wondering if they messed the TPS up in the service...?
Hope it's fixed when you get it back!

[warrenhewitt10]

he would have to be extremely skillfull to get carb icing in a fuel injected bike.......

He hasnt sorted it out, hes a strange chap to say the least. He just sorta lives with it, the problem will be there quite a bit for a while then go away for a month or 2 and come back.

[danf1234]

Was it very cold out when it started to stall? Sure it's not just carb icing?? Have you tried the high octane fuel and/or ProFST additive route that a lot of people find very effective???

Its a pointy so no carbs I am afriad.

However rather interestly I have found this old post:

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=122470

This is the exactly the same fault as mine, however on a different model bike. Seeing as mine is FI I think I can rule out carb icing though. LOL

[danf1234]

2010 SV is fuel injected

I also have a 2010 SV sport, hope I don't come a cropper! Only at 350 miles so far

Was it happening before the first service? Just wondering if they messed the TPS up in the service...?
Hope it's fixed when you get it back!


No it first did when the bike had 12 miles, on but I just though it was me not being used to the new clutch.

[warrenhewitt10]

2010 SV is fuel injected

I also have a 2010 SV sport, hope I don't come a cropper! Only at 350 miles so far

Was it happening before the first service? Just wondering if they messed the TPS up in the service...?
Hope it's fixed when you get it back!

id say you should be ok, i read very few tps posts on here :) My bikes 7 years old now and has just short of 30,000 miles and so far those are the only 2 times it has done anything out of the ordinary, and it was fine 15mins afterwards :)

[danf1234]

Well the story so far. The bike has been at the dealers all day, but because of the horrible weather they haven't had chance to test ride. They have made some changes and been on the phone to suzuki technical etc. I am going to pick it up tomorrow and give it a good 50 mile run and so if the problem has gone away. Fingers crossed.

[yorkie_chris]

I'd be looking at either rich running loading it up (very similar problem occurs "hanging down" ... opposite of hanging up... if your needle is set too rich on carbed bike).
Or... some fault with the new fangled Idle Air Valve (IAC maybe, not sure what acronym).

[Sly]

Done 700 miles. It's just had its first service late. Are you symptoms exactly the same as this i.e cutting out at low revs when approaching a stop?

I am gussing grease is to waterproof it so that won't make much difference. So if my symptoms and cause are same as yours it's either new plugs or throttle body balancing, or the TPS?

Yeah, I had exactly the same, in my case after a couple of gentle topple over incidents in the snow last winter that I think knocked the TPS out of adjustment. It went back to the bike shop a few times before it was right. At first they couldn't get it to fault at all, but said it was because the tickover was too low and the bike has a v.light flywheel :\ It did seem that raising tickover slightly did help a bit, as did new plugs, but it was after they did throttle body balancing and TPS that it got properly better again. On the thread about TPS adjustment where there's a YouTube link to a yank mechanic doing it on a SV1000, I'm sure it mentioned that it needs doing at the end of running in period.

The grease is for the pernicious effects of damp on the front HT system. It seems to take only a very slight amount of arcing/tracking to weaken the spark. I'd often have problems after coming off the motorway in the rain, when it had been running AOK at speed for sodden miles, but when I came off the throttle for an extended period of time on the off-ramp it started to mess about and cut out or go down to one cylinder at junctions in town and stopping at lights etc.

I know the above seems to jumble up two separate problems, but they both occurred together for me. The link is that if one pot goes down due to either damp or TPS out of tolerance it makes it easy for the bike to stall, especially if the idle speed is set just a bit low. That's my 2C. YMMV

Here's a link to the TPS thread and youtube link: Re: TPS Adjustment Step-by-Step Pictorial Guide
This video by Suzuki confirms that this is a necessary adjustment and not a "mod". It also confirms that the 1400 rpm figure is correct and explains in slightly more detail were the line should be in relation to idle and then throttle i:e centre and top.
It's on a TL1000 but virtually identical to the guide originally posted here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQMqN_7zL2M

[danf1234]

I have manage to sort this after some very frustrating months. Well Suzuki's Technical department did actually.

It was the Pazzo lever on the clutch.

The pazzo levers are manufactured without the push rod on the clutch lever. This means I didn't have to pull the clutch in to start the bike.

Appartently the engine relies on a signal from this lever to tell when the clutch is pulled in, especially at low revs. Hence why it was stalling when slowing down and chaging down gears.

I was very very sceptical at first, but I have now cover 150 miles and it has cured the problem.

Beware anyone fitting Pazzo's to an 2010 bike. :eek:

[Stonesie]

Its a pointy so no carbs I am afriad.

However rather interestly I have found this old post:

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=122470

This is the exactly the same fault as mine, however on a different model bike. Seeing as mine is FI I think I can rule out carb icing though. LOL


I nearly spat my coffee out at that link, on page 2 "V-power is now under £1 a litre" What? Where? I'm on my way...... oh balls, 2 year old thread:oops:


Glad you have it sorted but will this afflict all FI bikes if the Pazzo's are fitted?

[danf1234]

I don't know TBH, I didn't have them fitted to my K6.

[embee]

...Appartently the engine relies on a signal from this lever to tell when the clutch is pulled in, especially at low revs. :eek:

Only a guess but if the ECU has an overrun fuel cut-off function it may use a clutch signal to ensure reinstatement whenever the clutch is pulled in (combined with a neutral signal/rpm/wheel speed etc). If this is the case it could catch it out if the revs dropped lower than it expects without seeing the clutch signal :smt102. That kind of thing anyway.

With cars there's also quite often different idle speed functions depending on things like electrical load, aircon, and also if the car is moving above a certain threshold speed, probably not relevant to a bike but just for info.

[danf1234]

That sounds very similar to what Suzuki tried to explain to me.

[maxinc]

ECU's are funny business. I had once my car over revving because of a faulty water temperature sensor. Funny thing was, after the sensor was replaced, it took the ECU some 20-30 miles to adjusts itself, as the mechanic predicted. Glad you sorted it ... and glad I didn't bid on your levers :P