View Full Version : Problems dimantling rear caliper.
camperman69uk
01-02-11, 11:49 AM
Its almost MOT time once again and my baby needs a little work doing to her. Last year's MOT stated that the rear brake pads were worn so I thought that it was time to put a new pair on. So its time for a bit of TLC ie. remove said calliper and replace seals if needed. Its only 4 bolts how hard can it be,,,,,,,,,. BLOODY IMPOSSIBLE that's how hard! All but one bolt looked totally fine but the last one (the one closest to the rear wheel) looked for want of a better word, shabby :( Time to perchace a new impact driver coz I didn't want to do any more damage. BANG, BANG, OUCH, BANG,[-o< *******!!!:smt019 round and round we go, big nothing will fit in this allan bolt again. Time to cut a groove in what's left of the head so I can use a screw driver bit. BANG, BANG, OUCH, BANG, BO@@LOX. Got a big s shaped driver bit now,,,,hmmmm. A good friend of mine has a workshop with everything in it, so of I go and try and bribe him with a nice bottle of wine and a chat. He say's "we could weld an old allan key in the hole and heat will help move things along" BUZZ, BUZZ, SPARK, SPARK,[-o< dink! :smt019 it just wont hold. Drill the head off then we can dismantle it and get a good grip on the thread (what's left of it). Not a snowballs chance in hell :smt072. So I go to http://www.svspares.com/ and order one from them today. So now I am off the road for as long as it take's the people of http://www.svspares.com/ to get the part to me. I will let you know what happens.
yorkie_chris
01-02-11, 11:53 AM
Heh, see if you'd had a look on here first you could have soaked it in plusgas for a while and avoided all this fuss :-P
Sid Squid
01-02-11, 12:00 PM
I take it this is a Curvy you're working on? - if yes there's a thread on here, (by yours truly), detailing how to get the socket bolts out without breaking anything.
husky03
01-02-11, 06:31 PM
should have checked here first mate:(-there's a fela on here who does rear calipers fully serviced for £45 delivered and £55 with new pads and you'd have had it 1/2 days;)
camperman69uk
01-02-11, 07:01 PM
Oh bugger. Well £57 from svspares ain't to bad, I all ready had the pads anyway seeing as that was what I was trying to do in the first place. So now its just a point of sitting on my hands till it turns up. Yes Sid it is a curvy. yorkie_chris please don't take the widdle out of the newish guy. I have been on here for a about a year now and the forum has helped me out a lot. I mean come on just how hard can it be to change pads? I can tell ya,,,,,,,, a right pain the rear that's how hard :(
yorkie_chris
01-02-11, 07:49 PM
I know mate I've had all the same crap myself and more, busted knuckles, rounded bolts, snapped ones, threaded ones, wrecked parts, melted parts, on fire parts, welded-to-the-wrong-thing parts, on fire body parts etc. etc. it's how you learn unfortunately.
But if you think that's going to stop me taking the widdle you've got no chance :smt082
I reckon you'd have a good chance of drilling it out myself. File it flat first, center pop it and start with a small drill. If center pop isn't absolutely c*ck on then file it flat again and try again. You can do this with a hand drill and a couple of drill bits (buy dormer ones not crap from B+Q).
Worth a try for sake of good practice and if you scrap the part no big deal.
sam anon
01-02-11, 10:53 PM
Its almost MOT time once again and my baby needs a little work doing to her. Last year's MOT stated that the rear brake pads were worn so I thought that it was time to put a new pair on. So its time for a bit of TLC ie. remove said calliper and replace seals if needed. Its only 4 bolts how hard can it be,,,,,,,,,. BLOODY IMPOSSIBLE that's how hard! All but one bolt looked totally fine but the last one (the one closest to the rear wheel) looked for want of a better word, shabby :( Time to perchace a new impact driver coz I didn't want to do any more damage. BANG, BANG, OUCH, BANG,[-o< *******!!!:smt019 round and round we go, big nothing will fit in this allan bolt again. Time to cut a groove in what's left of the head so I can use a screw driver bit. BANG, BANG, OUCH, BANG, BO@@LOX. Got a big s shaped driver bit now,,,,hmmmm. A good friend of mine has a workshop with everything in it, so of I go and try and bribe him with a nice bottle of wine and a chat. He say's "we could weld an old allan key in the hole and heat will help move things along" BUZZ, BUZZ, SPARK, SPARK,[-o< dink! :smt019 it just wont hold. Drill the head off then we can dismantle it and get a good grip on the thread (what's left of it). Not a snowballs chance in hell :smt072. So I go to http://www.svspares.com/ and order one from them today. So now I am off the road for as long as it take's the people of http://www.svspares.com/ to get the part to me. I will let you know what happens.
You don't work for www.svspares.com do you!
camperman69uk
02-02-11, 07:39 AM
No sam I don't work for them, but if they are crap and muck me about,,,,,, every one will know :D. Yorkie, I think I have more scabs than skin on me hands now so I know what you mean. I will try your ideas out when I get the other one from you know whom,,,, shhh,,, don't mention there name. At least that way I will have a spear one :)
Owenski
02-02-11, 08:53 AM
I know mate I've had all the same crap myself and more, busted knuckles, rounded bolts, snapped ones, threaded ones, wrecked parts, melted parts, on fire parts, welded-to-the-wrong-thing parts, on fire body parts etc. etc. it's how you learn unfortunately.
You missed out; Bent fork parts
HTH ;)
Sid Squid
02-02-11, 02:49 PM
I know mate I've had all the same crap myself and more, busted knuckles, rounded bolts, snapped ones, threaded ones, wrecked parts, melted parts, on fire parts, welded-to-the-wrong-thing parts, on fire body parts etc. etc. it's how you learn unfortunately.
+1 to the above plus I learnt that welding in slippers isn't a good idea
husky03
02-02-11, 08:23 PM
+1 to the above plus I learnt that welding in slippers isn't a good idea
made me laugh-though i was being sensible with the walking boots on but did i tie them?-no-had the blister scab on the top of my foot for months dam sore.
yorkie_chris
02-02-11, 10:02 PM
Hehehe. Same thing with rigger boots and a chunk of slag from oxy cutting torch.
Really quick way to learn to dance.
Heh, see if you'd had a look on here first you could have soaked it in plusgas for a while and avoided all this fuss :-P
Is this plusgas stuff better than any other penetrating fluid? If so is there any difference (in effectiveness) between the aerosol version or other?
yorkie_chris
02-02-11, 11:48 PM
I used to really like the duck oil (iirc) that came in a non aerosol can, but they all seem a bit sh*t these days TBH.
Apparently mixing ATF with acetone can give the similar results to the old school stuff before all this "health" stuff was invented.
Is that a yes? My only experience with such stuff is with 3 in 1 penetrating aerosol.
yorkie_chris
03-02-11, 12:08 AM
3 in 1 aerosol is fine, 3 in 1 in a can is also good stuff.
If in doubt use both, can't hurt.
It's kinda hard to say what's "best" though, 'cos if it works, who is to say that it was an ACE penetrating oil, or that the bolt wasn't tight...
So buy one you like the smell of :-P
barwel1992
03-02-11, 12:16 AM
3 in 1 aerosol is fine, 3 in 1 in a can is also good stuff.
If in doubt use both, can't hurt.
It's kinda hard to say what's "best" though, 'cos if it works, who is to say that it was an ACE penetrating oil, or that the bolt wasn't tight...
So buy one you like the smell of :-P
i have the 3 in 1 aerosol and its worked so far (apart from the exhaust stud ...)
3 in 1 aerosol is fine, 3 in 1 in a can is also good stuff.
If in doubt use both, can't hurt.
It's kinda hard to say what's "best" though, 'cos if it works, who is to say that it was an ACE penetrating oil, or that the bolt wasn't tight...
So buy one you like the smell of :-P
Fair enough. It does smell really nice.
camperman69uk
03-02-11, 07:06 AM
So it sounds like I shouldn't of bothered with that half a tin WD40 I used to try and the blighter apart :(
yorkie_chris
03-02-11, 10:26 AM
WD40 = water dispersant.
Better than nowt but it isn't penetrating oil
thedonal
03-02-11, 05:11 PM
Yep- had to do this last year as a bleed nipple snapped on the rear caliper.
SV Spares sent me one in way better condition than what I had (same with replacement front calipers). Even the seals were in good condition. My bike has done around 60k miles though!!
I may get a spare working one, so I can always have a clean one ready for the switch- that way I can clean the old caliper up later and only have the fluid bleeding to sort out.
camperman69uk
04-02-11, 06:57 PM
OK it's update time. The calliper came from the good people at sv spares in perfect condition with new seals and everything all copper slipped up. Fitted and working pucker. Only problem was on my part, bleeding!!!! and no it wasn't because I knocked a scab off. So a quick look on this wonderful forum and it was the top banjo. After a few swear words it moved, farted and that was it, done and dusted. Now for the front callipers :D
Lovely! Will you be working on the old one to try and free the pin?
camperman69uk
05-02-11, 06:13 PM
Monkey, yes I will be attempting to strip it good n proper. I have already taken the top of the bolt but at the moment the beast still won't let bloody go,,,, gr. Think I am going to have to put a bomb under it and see what that dose.
yorkie_chris
05-02-11, 06:32 PM
The bolts have a double shoulder type arrangement IIRC. Drill them from other side.
camperman69uk
05-02-11, 06:43 PM
Bugger, didn't think of that! Got the to ride the bike so I will be playing with old calliper in the week.
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