Throttle cam jammed - 2002 Curvy

[Flash B]

Hi there, I know there's probably been loads of posts about this...I recently picked up a 2002 's' and didn't ride it for 2 months due to the snow & ice here in Wales. Went for first ride and the throttle jammed open in 4th and the RH switch gear housing 'locating lug' snapped off causing the throttle to jam open and the whole mechanism to spin backwards. I've fixed the switchgear, but have checked the cables and after removing the air box housing can see that the lower cable on the throttle cam is rusted, but does flex when throttle moved. The problem is...the throttle cam is jammed completely and I haven't a clue what to do. I've soaked everything in WD40 and rust spray, but there is no movement at all. How can I get it working again? I'm pretty sure that if I remove both cables from the cam, the thing still wont budge. Do I need to strip everything or just start 'percusive' repair methods with a hammer???? Is this common? Are bearing seized somewhere? Please bear in mind that I'm not a competent mechanic and don't have loads of tools.
Need to get the bike on the road ASAFP to get back into biking after too long a break.

[Sid Squid]

Take the cables off and be sure that the carb spindle is actually stuck first before delving further. I'm sure you're right but be certain before doing work that may not be needed.
If it should prove that the spindle is stuck apply some more oil/WD/penetrant/whatever to both inner and outer ends of the spindle and gently apply force to the quadrant, there's no need to make it move all the way round at first, just get it cracked then apply more goo, move it more and then more oil.

Consider if it maybe a good idea to remove the carbs so nothing ends up dropping through the intake while you're wiggling about above them.

[hardhat_harry]

Normal thing on the SV is the linkage that opens the throttles on the carbs has siezed (the bar that goes down the side of the carbs).

You can try to strip them down and regrease but I've never been able to fix this issue on a set of carbs as even when they have been stripped, cleaned and regreased they become grabby and dont throttle correctly (and stick again).

[Flash B]

Removing the carbs???? Nightmare! I've been out tonight and managed to tap the spindle back & forth slightly. I did consider removing the cables, but I can see that there's a fair bit of play in them.
There is absolutely no 'spring' back to the spindle / cam at all. I have to tap it down and gently prise it back with a lever. Is the spindle part of the carbs or is it deeper? I've been out with a torch and can't see - garage is in an outbuilding with no power...great news!
I have no idea what to do next. I can't even get the bike to a garage for someone else to look at it.
I have stripped V8 landrover carbs before, but that seemed to be by luck and guesswork rather than any degree of skill. The Haynes manual seems to do the usual 'Simply remove the .....'

Any other suggestions?
How do I manage to get at the spindle to check what's up?

[hardhat_harry]

You need to take the carbs off.

Tank up and airbox off first, then you need a long philips screwdriver to loosen the rubber mouths that connect the bottom of the carbs to the engine.

Rock carbs from side to side to remove.

I'd also cover the holes to the engine with rubber glove or rag so nothing can drop in.

Undo the throttle and choke cables and operate the carbs by twisting the cam they should feel under tension by the spring but open easily and shut via spring tension.

[Flash B]

Looks like it will have to be carbs off. I've just searched on here and found a few posts with the similar problem...
This is not good as I've got no real idea what to do and don't want to bugger the bike up before I've got to use it more than twice (wife would not be chuffed).
Is the spindle part of the carbs then or lower down?
Is there anything on the other side of the carbs that could be lubed to help?
This is turning out to be a mare!
I've already got the tank up, airbox off and gloves covering the carbs. The cam is really jammed and won't move more than a couple of mm with pressure. how can I remove the spindle?

Anyone got a set of carbs for sale???

[Flash B]

Right then,
Carbs are off - what a mare!! The front screw holding the choke plunger thing was a joke. I need to replace lots of screws etc. I've read on here that I need stainless M5 10mm allen bolts to do the job...is that right? I want to replace the two on the choke and any others that are likely to melt when touched.
I was going to buy some new carbs, but I reckon I've probably done the hard bit of getting them off the bike. Any hints and tips on cleaning and replacing parts?
The Haynes manual mentions replacing o-rings on the choke plungers and I haven't even read the rest.
I need the expert advice of you techy types as I feel like being a mechanic this week.
Do I need to take note of screw positions (not where they come from - but what position they are in...amount of turns etc) and things like that????
Any advice greatly appreciated.

Ash

[muzikill]

For a start download the official manual for your bike and use that as first reference and the haynes as a 2nd opinion . . The official manual is a lot more clearer for tricky jobs like this

[Flash B]

Just about to have a gander at the carbs now...got the M5 bolts for everything (cost £2.00 for 10) and about to clean the whole lot.
Should the throttle cam 'spring back' once all is cleaned? Mine is still very hard to move.
Lots of photos and labels needed for this I think as don't want to forget something.

Thanks for the advice so far peeps...

[Nicky S]

im not to sure what you are talking about but is it this bit of the carbs ?

http://images56.fotki.com/v542/photos/6/654806/9404975/IMG_0534-vi.jpg

[Nicky S]

Just about to have a gander at the carbs now...got the M5 bolts for everything (cost £2.00 for 10) and about to clean the whole lot.
Should the throttle cam 'spring back' once all is cleaned? Mine is still very hard to move.
Lots of photos and labels needed for this I think as don't want to forget something.

Thanks for the advice so far peeps...

be very carefull as sv carbs dont like being played with and all the bolts are made of cheese just dont do like i did and snap one

[Flash B]

Nicky,

Yes the photo shows the cam, which I imagine should be fairly easy to move and I guess should spring back to a closed position.
I started taking the carbs apart last night and two more screws rounded off at the front....*^%$*&&^!!!!
Before I began stripping them, they were soaked all over with WD40 etc, cleaned(ish) and then for about 20mins I attached a 12mm ring spanner to the nut on the cam and just moved it back and forth, lubing the linkage all the time. Still no joy. It wontmove without a spanner or a fair bit of force.
Surely it must move fairly easilt, because isn't the sprng on the cam what makes the throttle grip on the bars spring back to a closed position?

I think I'll buy a set of used carbs and fix mine later because the linkage seems seized....

Any suggestions peeps??:confused:

[Nicky S]

Well as you said it should move very easyerly. And yes the spring is what makes it spring back.

One thing i noticed when i f****d my carbs was that the cam (bit you are having problems with) would not move at all unless i did what you are doing with spanners hammers ect. This was because i hade bent the bar that gose throw the carb. The one the butterfly sits on.

Im not to sure how i manged to do this but i think it was trying to remove the cheese bolts.

But another thing i dont understand is you were ridding and this happend dont understand how you could have put that much pressure on it

[muzikill]

See the threaded ends of those bolts that the heads were like cheese? Did they look blue? . . The reason for them not coming out is that they are blue thread locked . . An impact driver may have got them off but considering how delicate the carbs it would be difficult to use one! I feel your pain im going to have to clean them up before i refit mine during my bike rebuild.

[Flash B]

But another thing i dont understand is you were ridding and this happend dont understand how you could have put that much pressure on it[/QUOTE]

All a bit strange really...got the bike dropped off at my house in Mid december (the day before the bad snow came)from a friend and it hadn't been ridden for a couple of months. The snow stopped me riding it and then in early feb, I took it out and the throttle wasn't working properly at all. The choke was what was keeping the revs up and I was sort of fixing it as I rode and then on a straight just away from my house, the throttle moved and locked fully open, and at the same time the little plastic lug on the inside of the RH switchgear snapped and made the throttle assemplby loose and locked on!!! managed to grab the clutch and killed the engine, before limping back to the house.
I reckon it was bound to happen at some point as the bike appears to have been neglected somewhat (to say the least).
Still...live and learn :)

[Flash B]

See the threaded ends of those bolts that the heads were like cheese? Did they look blue? . . The reason for them not coming out is that they are blue thread locked . . An impact driver may have got them off but considering how delicate the carbs it would be difficult to use one! I feel your pain im going to have to clean them up before i refit mine during my bike rebuild.


The things that are made of cheese (so far) are just the screws holding the front carb choke plunger assembly and the screws holding the front carb top cover on. I've not come accross any bolts with thread lock -YET.

I'm sure that if all the screws and bolts were made of 'Seriously Strong' cheddar all would be ok!

I've just bitten the bullet anyway and bought a set of apparent working carbs from Fleabay, so I'll clean them and add on the new M5 stainless allen cap bolts then fit them and get on my bike...during which time, I can slowly fix my original set and find out what's wrong.

[Flash B]

Right then,

I've just tried to fit the new carbs after a thorough clean up...but when re-fitting the carbs to the bike, I've managed to break TWO of the heater connections (both on the rear carb...they are a brass bolt with a hard black plastic insert and a brass extension, onto which a connector attaches). I snapped one, then took it off and re-fitted a replacement from my old carbs (the new set had one broken already). This one snapped too.
Mega problems lining the carbs up and once it was eventually fitted, the throttle cables were really tight, despite not being fitted to the throttle tube on the bar. Then the best bit happened...whilst re-attaching the cables to the throttle tube, the f*&^%ng thing broke!!!!!! AAAAARRRGHHH!!!!!!!.

Anyway, I now need a couple of new brass heater connectors (just in case) and a new throttle tube.

What do I do??:confused::confused::confused:

Anyone got a throttle tube for a 2002 curvy they want to part with?

Help please as my bike is becoming the bain of may life...and I've only ridden it twice in three months.

Ash

[muzikill]

You'll have to weigh up the cost of replacing the parts that are broke against buying another set of bodies, i usually have a look at svparts to keep an eye on how much the whole part is. I'd consider if its viable to replace, get the part number thats fookt from the microfiche and email the local suzuki garage to get a price on it and weigh it up from there.

oh yeah, and consider the repair difficulty.

[Flash B]

You'll have to weigh up the cost of replacing the parts that are broke against buying another set of bodies, i usually have a look at svparts to keep an eye on how much the whole part is. I'd consider if its viable to replace, get the part number thats fookt from the microfiche and email the local suzuki garage to get a price on it and weigh it up from there.

oh yeah, and consider the repair difficulty.

Managed to fix both broken bolts and have had a new throttle tube (well new to me anyway) shipped over from Germany from a member of this site...cheers Nils!!:D

Just waiting for the part to arrive and on my next day off will take a chilled aproach to bike repair looking at things that can break and steering clear of them!!!

I sit in my garage dressed in bike kit willing the bike to fix itself!!!

[muzikill]

Use the time to do some homework and making notes, planning out and also some time to de stress over it. Your taking you first steps to fix your bike!

[Flash B]

Well...I am officially a Haynes manual 3 spanner man!!!!

Fitted the new throttle tube...no problem
Attached the throttle cables to the tube...no problem
Connected repaired bolts to new carbs...no problem
Attached all cables to carbs...no problem
Fitted carbs to engine...no problem

(By now I was thinking something was wrong as it was all going so well!!!!)

Connected all wiring...no problem
Re-attached airbox...no problem
Re-connected battery...loads of charge
Checked everything was connected...and then fired the bike up...

FUEL spraying everywhere!!!!

Then re-checked ALL of the parts I'd disconnected and somehow FORGOT to attach the fuel feed to the new carbs...what a mook!

Anyway, cleaned the fuel spill and dried everything off...Re-conected the battery and.......Bike started first time:smt048:D:D

So, after much fretting and book reading / thread reading on here, I managed to fix my bike. To all the other mechanical idiots out there, anything is possible.
Thanks for all the advice peeps.

Now I must go, as there's a house to build and world peace to sort out.