Track bike on a budget

[Winder]

I have been Reading up on MANY posts on here about building a track bike and I've got an idea of what to do.
The bike I have is an 02 curvy. Standard apart from delkevic road end can and braided lines.

So far I have decided

•Zx6r rear shock (cheap option)
•Some form of fork internals
•Race rear sets
•520 chain and sprockets
•Venhill quick action throttle
•Some form of light weight subframe
•New brake pads
•High flow air filter
•Race end can (cheaper than full system)
•Cheap used race fairing
•SC2 used tyres from somewhere

As you can see I'm trying to keep this as low cost as possible.

Is there anything that I should add to the above list that you would recommend or anything you think I should avoid?

One last question.
How do you lockwire, what should I lockwire and what kit do I need.

I hate these long posts with more than 1 question!!!

Cheers guys

[hardhat_harry]

You dont need to lockwire for a trackday.

[Red Herring]

How serious do you want to be?
Personally if you've not done a track day yet I'd spend your money on doing a couple first and seeing how you get on. If the bug bites and you want to go faster (generally the point behind changing things on your bike) then sell the SV and re-invest the money in a SS600 bike as £ for mph they are a far cheaper way to go. The only reason for sticking with the SV would be you want to go racing Minitwins, or you love it as a road bike and just want to do the odd track day. Don't get me wrong, SV's a re great fun around a track, I have a huge hoot on mine, but ultimately I always get back on the GSXR when I want to go faster.....and after you've been blown away down the main straight by some to55er on an R1 for the umteenth time so will you.

[Winder]

Done about 6 track days. I'm not that fast but improving. I have basically got this bike for nothing so want to use it for now. How serious do I want to be? 1 track day a month would be my goal, that will cost quite a bit for someone on my wage. Race? I'm not good enough.

[SoulKiss]

Leave bike as is, use money for trackdays.

They are not about speed or racing, they are about riding.

So a bunch of performance enhancing mods are irrelevant.

The bike is probably a fair bit better at getting round the track than you are, until thats no longer the case, keep it as is.

[hongman]

Sell me your lowers, saves weight ;)

[Owenski]

Im not experiance in the track riding side of biking but if you want a common sense impartial view then to hi-jack daves responce: Keep the bike as it is until you find your self screaming at it to give you more then when you start wanting more I'd pretty much upgrade things in the order you've listed them.

*Why bother with the end can only, its the system which creates the better flow/power all teh end can does is decide which note to play it in.

[Roberrrrt]

Leave bike as is, use money for trackdays.

They are not about speed or racing, they are about riding.

So a bunch of performance enhancing mods are irrelevant.

The bike is probably a fair bit better at getting round the track than you are, until thats no longer the case, keep it as is.

^^this^^

[Souldude]

I have a Renegade Carbon race can, a bit scruffy small dent. Doesn't leak. Comes with link pipe, bracket and 2 clamps. Was repacked and sealed 18 months ago. Sounded better before that though.

[leebex]

eh, where did that come from? :smt003:smt003:smt003:smt003:smt003:smt003

[davegixer1300r]

http://forums.sv650.org/picture.php?albumid=867&pictureid=5820

this is one of our Sv's
so work done removed all the bits it doees not need these can be sold on to fund rearsets £165 saves breaking standard items as the act as sliders as well. fitted BB blade and subframe. made a tin box to locate battery by side of engine cut the loom removed the KEY and fitted a 100ohm resistor
moved the start solenoid just plug it in to go kill switch still works as it should all lights wires removed as is the left hand switch gear.I mounted a small dash panel on the key mount to hold three LEDS neutral, oil press and overheat it also holds my choke cable. dead simple and cheap used at cadwell really lighter and handles much better.

[mister c]

As said previously really.
I had a stock FZR400 2tk with an end can on it. I track dayed it & had loads of fun on what was primarily a road bike with race fairings on it. It wasn't the fastest thing out there, but it put a massive smile on my face & taught me loads.
I even entered a race meeting & came 11th in my 1st outing, beating far faster bikes. (I did crash in the 2nd race, but that's irrelevent :))

The bike cost me £500 & I sold it 2 years later for the same price, so you can have heaps of fun on a standard, cheap machine.

[twowheels]

I have been Reading up on MANY posts on here about building a track bike and I've got an idea of what to do.
The bike I have is an 02 curvy. Standard apart from delkevic road end can and braided lines.

So far I have decided

•Zx6r rear shock (cheap option)
•Some form of fork internals
•Race rear sets
•520 chain and sprockets
•Venhill quick action throttle
•Some form of light weight subframe
•New brake pads
•High flow air filter
•Race end can (cheaper than full system)
•Cheap used race fairing
•SC2 used tyres from somewhere

As you can see I'm trying to keep this as low cost as possible.

Is there anything that I should add to the above list that you would recommend or anything you think I should avoid?

One last question.
How do you lockwire, what should I lockwire and what kit do I need.

I hate these long posts with more than 1 question!!!

Cheers guys


if it were me, id stick some fresh brake fluid in, quite rightly decent tyres, some SBS street excel break pads, set up the suspension (preload) make sure chain and sprocks are OK and ride the hell out of it! maybe add the parts as you go and probably leave the exhaust as it is?

lockwiring is a pain! but I think its agood thing even on a track bike, you need to drill holes in the bolt heads to thread the wire through and then attach the wire to a secure point - the drilling is the pain. Loctite might be a better option to be honest. My calipers, sump bolt and oil cap are lockwired - i had to get each bolt of the bike and then mount it in a vice, drill the holes - i went through a few HSS drill bits doing this! loctite is much eaiser!!

[johnnyrod]

it's a long list for a cheap bike. Stiffer fork springs, also emulators if you want, but the GSXR front end swap is (on balance) around the same price I believe. Yep better rear shock would be nice. Instead of rearsets either ignore it or get jack-up plates for the pegs, they're around £40 I think. If you want power then do the cam swap, it's top end you need anyway. If you go for filter and can etc. you need dyno time or you'll waste the money on the can and filter. Buy pre-scuffed stock bodywork off ebay, there's loads and it fits properly. To my mind thesee are the things that'll really solve 90% or your worries, don't fanny about with the other stuff. All the bike needs is a touch more power (on mediom/fast circuits) and more front end confidence, after that you just ride the rims off it.

[davegixer1300r]

To get a better power to weight ratio you can either increase the power [expensive tuning, extra bits required hi flow filters dynojets etc] or just reduce weight take off the bits it does not need to function. You can then sell them to fund better bits you would like. Most road bikes are better than their riders on a track, it is all down to confidence a good road tyre will really cope with an sv's power for a track day until you really are that good you need race tyres after all you need to be going some to keep the heat in them so i am told.

[Winder]

Thanks for all the ideas and advice. I'll def be keeping it simple and not wasting any money. Don't wanna be the guy with "all the gear, no idea"

[hongman]

"all the gear, no idea"

Great quote lol.

I'm no gear, no idea ;) :smt035