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squirrel_hunter
06-09-11, 10:31 PM
Need some advice as I need to winter proof my garage.

I accept that its not going to be nice and toasty in there as the central heating doesn't extend that far... yet. But I've been in garages where it was colder inside then outside and I don't want to do that any more.

The big weak point is the door. I was thinking of some additional rubber strips and draft excluder's around the edges to cut out the wind effect. But the door itself is only a couple of mm of tin foil. Would gluing loft insulation to the inside be a good idea or can another solution be found?

MisterTommyH
06-09-11, 10:43 PM
You need 200-300mm of loft insulation to even start getting a decent effect. It might be better to get some rigid board insulation (kingspan or similar) and try that. Should have some effect with decent coverage.

thefallenangel
06-09-11, 10:45 PM
If you have juice in there, go with some small tubular heaters too. At 60w/foot they are pretty good with a well insulated building. Draft excluding would be a good start also air flow helps too.

gruntygiggles
06-09-11, 10:59 PM
You need to generate heat Steve dear...that means that when you go into your garage...






...you actually do some work, rather than just stand around staring at all your pretty things 'n' stuff...lol. ;-)

_Stretchie_
06-09-11, 11:08 PM
Firstly, as Cheryl says, actually do some work and you will be warmer.

Secondly get a leccy heater with a fan in it, that three panel one you've got that oscillates is crap unless you are sat right next to it.

Then I'd get the brush type draught draught excluders around the edges of your door and a big long one (oo-er) to go across the bottom of the door. I'd go for some Cellotex sheet from Wickes to line the garage door and possibly the back wall of your garage with.

Happy to help (but to ACTUALLY help with the garage will cost you extra)

Bri w
06-09-11, 11:18 PM
Move the garage to Cape Town

Red Herring
07-09-11, 09:01 AM
Be careful just using a fan heater in an otherwise cold and damp garage. You only have to look at your visor to see the effect of warm air hitting a cold surface..... Your bikes will end up wetter than if you had left them outside!

I'd go with making it as draft proof and insulated as you can before even thinking about trying to heat it. If you can run to a roller door instead of an up and over they seal much better and the slats are already an inch think with insulation in the middle.

arenalife
07-09-11, 09:02 AM
A drafty garage is good for the bike though, last thing you want is a stuffed up condensation box. For the big area of metal like the door, polystyrene on a roll is very good, cheap and easy. It doesn't keep the heat in but what it does do is stop the air in the room contacting the cold metal and getting chilled. If you can board the floor out with OSB board the floor is always warm to the touch (and soft), that's much better than concrete (cleaner too). If you can do that and stop the drafts while you're in there, even a small heater will keep it toasty.

tweakedtay
07-09-11, 01:37 PM
What kind of door does your garage have? Slats (usually 4-5) or just a single large piece?

Either way, I recommend (being from the frozen wasteland) heavy insulation in the walls, at least 5 inches thick. Weather stripping on the sides of the door, and a new, improved garage door bottom. All of which is purchasable from your local hardware store. And, like everyone's saying, you can't go wrong with a space heater. Trust me on this, I've had to work on my car in -50.

squirrel_hunter
07-09-11, 05:32 PM
The door is a single sheet up and over. I cannot replace this. Or at least I don't think I can need to check the tenancy agreement...

I don't intend to have it heated permanently, only while I'm in there working and really just to take the edge off of it so hopefully condensation will not be a problem but I will keep an eye on that.

How heavy is this insulation stuff and would it effect the opening of the door?

yorkie_chris
07-09-11, 05:44 PM
If you can board the floor out with OSB board the floor is always warm to the touch (and soft), that's much better than concrete (cleaner too). If you can do that and stop the drafts while you're in there, even a small heater will keep it toasty.

Yup, but they go soggy with oil contact. Probably not an issue with squirrels bikes eh :smt082

muzikill
07-09-11, 05:47 PM
If it had been a wooden garage id have been spot on telling you how to do it!.

Mind you... have you though about a thick sheet of cloth hanging from the door with a baton of wood tied straight across bottom of it to make it hang down straight or when the door is closed you can hang it across as some sort of excluder?

As far as condensation is concerned does the garage have a vent?

gruntygiggles
07-09-11, 05:55 PM
Yup, but they go soggy with oil contact. Probably not an issue with squirrels bikes eh :smt082

:winner:

_Stretchie_
07-09-11, 08:05 PM
Yup, but they go soggy with oil contact. Probably not an issue with squirrels bikes eh :smt082

Fing awesome =D>=D>=D>=D>=D>


As far as condensation is concerned does the garage have a vent?

Yeah a big massive one, he is currently trying to figure out how to block it up

tweakedtay
08-09-11, 02:18 PM
The door is a single sheet up and over. I cannot replace this. Or at least I don't think I can need to check the tenancy agreement...

I don't intend to have it heated permanently, only while I'm in there working and really just to take the edge off of it so hopefully condensation will not be a problem but I will keep an eye on that.

How heavy is this insulation stuff and would it effect the opening of the door?

The insulation goes withen the walls of the garage and barely weighs anything, just the pink, fluffy, fibreglass works fine. I would assume that your door has a lock, being a single sheet. Lock it up tight to get a good seal, and basically use a silicone calking around any edges then attach weather stripping. Just make sure you can still open it, so no calking on the door itself, just the exterior edge of the garage itself. Is this all just so you can work in there in the winter? Or are you just trying to protect the bike from the cold?

You shouldn't insulate the door itself, it will mess with the rail system and more then likely, the insulation will just fall off. If worse comes to worse and you're worried about the door not being thick enough, try tinfoil on the inside. I know, I'm crazy, but trust me. It works. Or if you're desperate, nail some 2X4's to the back of it as a frame, and add another sheet of corrigated steel.

Owenski
08-09-11, 02:39 PM
Draft excluding the door is a must fella but assuming you've got a corriguated roof its a lost cause mate.
They're great for running rain along but they contact increase surface area with the cold air of the outside world. Not only that but they're about as insulating as a pair of tights.
If you want it warmer in addition to the draft gear I'd be looking at a suspended chipboard ceiling with an insulation layer between it and the existing roof.
You'll also feel a major benifit from getting the floor covered; Underlay, foilbacked board and lino (wipeclean) would be my choice.

If changing the door is an option then get a door like this:
http://www.cheshiregaragedoors.co.uk/images/door_types/side-hinge-garage-door.jpg
or
http://www.garagedoorsonline.co.uk/UserFiles/Image/Hormann%20sectional%20pics/LPU40/black%20wicket%20door.jpg

You know the type, just so that when you open the door you dont have to open the large one and let all the heat out.

squirrel_hunter
08-09-11, 08:23 PM
As far as condensation is concerned does the garage have a vent?

There are no vents that I can see.

I doubt that I will get it air tight but thats not an aim.

Is this all just so you can work in there in the winter?

Yes. I would like to be comfortable when working on my bikes.

You shouldn't insulate the door itself, it will mess with the rail system and more then likely, the insulation will just fall off. If worse comes to worse and you're worried about the door not being thick enough, try tinfoil on the inside. I know, I'm crazy, but trust me. It works. Or if you're desperate, nail some 2X4's to the back of it as a frame, and add another sheet of corrigated steel.

I understand what you say about the tin foil, but I am still thinking insulation of some sort hot glued on. If I do this I will make sure that the movement of the door is not impeded.

Draft excluding the door is a must fella but assuming you've got a corriguated roof its a lost cause mate.

The roof of the garage is my spare room... Its a coach house. Or as I describe it, a garage with a bedroom attached.

You know the type, just so that when you open the door you dont have to open the large one and let all the heat out.

Yeah that is the thing whatever heat I manage to have will be lost by opening the door. Its really just to take some of the edge off of the winter and keep the heat in once I'm in working with the door closed.

keith_d
08-09-11, 08:52 PM
Rather than fixing the insulation to the door, how about making some inner panels from 8x2 hardboard sheets and battens that will overlap the metal door and have insulation fixed in the space between.

When spring comes and you're ready to take the bikes out again just prop them against the wall out of the way.

muzikill
09-09-11, 09:14 AM
Could you temp fix some swing doors INSIDE ? so when you go in and close the up and over door you could then close the doors inside as well?

maviczap
09-09-11, 10:36 AM
but I am still thinking insulation of some sort hot glued on. If I do this I will make sure that the movement of the door is not impeded.

cheap options for the door, you can get some of that laminate foil loft insulation, lightweight and easily cutable to size, then glue it on with hot glue. Won't impede on the door

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOFT-INSULATION-11-4sqm-DOUBLE-FOIL-AIR-BUBBLE-4mm-/310323898224?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4840bee770

You could also use it on the roof joists using a staple gun, or push it between the joists? Doesn't breathe much, so condesation could be a problem?

I got a rubber garage door seal from Screwfix, does the job well

For the floor get some carpet, I got mine on Freecycle for nothing, makes a big difference to cold feet.

Rather than a fan heater, you could buy a couple of tubular heaters.

Cheaper to run than fan heaters, and safer. Plus you could fit a timer to them

http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&sugexp=bvre&cp=13&gs_id=12&xhr=t&q=tubular+heaters&gs_upl=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&biw=1210&bih=693&wrapid=tljp1315564460764024&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=17610915255845690431&sa=X&ei=s-tpTtjOLYer-gbFkrHOBA&sqi=2&ved=0CGwQ8wIwAA#

squirrel_hunter
09-09-11, 11:59 AM
Could you temp fix some swing doors INSIDE ?

Nope, quite simply there isn't the room.

cheap options for the door, you can get some of that laminate foil loft insulation, lightweight and easily cutable to size, then glue it on with hot glue. Won't impede on the door

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOFT-INSULATION-11-4sqm-DOUBLE-FOIL-AIR-BUBBLE-4mm-/310323898224?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4840bee770

...

I got a rubber garage door seal from Screwfix, does the job well



Thats the stuff. Might take a trip out tonight...