View Full Version : Warming up the engine?
k1ngy SV
18-09-11, 09:05 PM
Hello .org :smt072
just wondering should u warm bike (sv650) up to a certain tempeture before riding & any opinons etc all welcome please :D
The Idle Biker
18-09-11, 09:14 PM
Erm no. I never rode a carb one with a choke they might need a bit of time. I just pressed start and rode. I never rode it hard till it warmed up though to high 80's. I don't understand all about how they work but I know you have to warm things up before they perform well. Ooerrr I sound like Swiss Tony.
k1ngy SV
18-09-11, 09:19 PM
Erm no. I never rode a carb one with a choke they might need a bit of time. I just pressed start and rode. I never rode it hard till it warmed up though to high 80's. I don't understand all about how they work but I know you have to warm things up before they perform well. Ooerrr I sound like Swiss Tony.
im not going to be riding a curvey :smt072
and yeahh just wonderd if there was a certain temp people like to get them at before they ride away, after having a 2stroke & waiting for that thing.. better safe then sorryyy :cheers:
lx_online
18-09-11, 09:42 PM
Um, this is more out of habbit than knowledge - I wait until it's 100 (F) then take it easy up to when it says 150 (F). Usually hovers around 190(F) when up to temp.
Don't know why it's in Farenheit - think it's because it's an import. Sure there is a way to change it, but not sure if it will change the MPH to KPH at the same time.
as previously said, when the bike is warm, water temp 70+ degrees. Then you know the oil is hot and will give the engine the protection and lubrication needed when you open up the throttle.
vardypeeps
19-09-11, 11:57 AM
From a cold start I usually wait till it gets to 30degrees and then match the heat of the engine with my revs so 30degrees 3000rpm. Dont know why I do this just seems kind to the engine :P
Once I get to 60degrees I'll rev it a bit more but don't give it full beans till it's around 75-80degrees
Oi SidSquid! Tell them!!!!
One of the few bits of mechanical knowhow I have is a SidSquid quote "warming up a bike is all loss and no gain" or words to that effect.
Oi SidSquid! Tell them!!!!
One of the few bits of mechanical knowhow I have is a SidSquid quote "warming up a bike is all loss and no gain" or words to that effect.
I hope so, mine gets warmed up for all of 20 seconds before I ride off. Just means it's a bit more likely to stall doesn't it?
Hey don't ask me for more information that that ;)
I just know that I trust his advice
DJFridge
19-09-11, 02:39 PM
On my curvy, on a cold day I wait until I can put the choke back to about 1/3. On a warm day it gets the length of time it takes me to close the garage door and put my lid and gloves on. Or nothing if it's been sat in the sun over lunch.
Amadeus
20-09-11, 11:35 AM
I generally start the engine, put my lid on, gloves on, rucksack on and I deem that long enough. In fairness, where I live is quite residential so it takes a little time before I get somewhere where I could go a little faster.
Sid Squid
20-09-11, 07:03 PM
"warming up a bike is all loss and no gain"
True that. Warming the engine before you ride it is at best a waste of fuel
Sitting still idling, (even a fast idle), causes the engine to take the longest time to heat up, the oil pressure is at the lowest it can be for as long as possible and everything is lacking the ideal fit it will get when it is hot, so you want to get it to temperature as quickly as you reasonably can - which is achieved by starting it and riding it without wasting time and fuel warming it up. So press the button, put your other glove on and ride away, gently of course - don't spank it when it's cold - and get some heat in it as soon as you can.
Warming up - don't do it; start it ride it.
yorkie_chris
20-09-11, 07:26 PM
Start it up and warm it up only long enough for it to get to a rideable temperature. On a carby this might be 10s on choke, on an injected due to better fuel mixing probably by the time (a late injected...) will have come down from it's initial fast idle.
When you ride away be gentle and smooth for the first 1 or 2 miles as it's this initial warm up that seems to make a good difference to tyre wear.
On a carby this might be 10s on choke
thats all I do, its too noisy at 6.40 in the morning to leave it ticking over.
STRAMASHER
21-09-11, 07:37 AM
im not going to be riding a curvey :smt072
and yeahh just wonderd if there was a certain temp people like to get them at before they ride away, after having a 2stroke & waiting for that thing.. better safe then sorryyy :cheers:
Press and go. Just go easy for the first minute or so. It will be a revelation to you compared to your 2-smoke. Its all so easy. (Nae Fragrence D' Comp Deux anymore tho':( ......AAAH!....THE SMELL OF IT !:love:)
lukemillar
21-09-11, 09:00 AM
True that. Warming the engine before you ride it is at best a waste of fuel
Sitting still idling, (even a fast idle), causes the engine to take the longest time to heat up, the oil pressure is at the lowest it can be for as long as possible and everything is lacking the ideal fit it will get when it is hot, so you want to get it to temperature as quickly as you reasonably can - which is achieved by starting it and riding it without wasting time and fuel warming it up. So press the button, put your other glove on and ride away, gently of course - don't spank it when it's cold - and get some heat in it as soon as you can.
Warming up - don't do it; start it ride it.
Ok el wise Squid- What about racebikes? Not so easy to warm them up by riding! At best you get a lap before having to give it the berries!
hardhat_harry
21-09-11, 09:29 AM
Ok el wise Squid- What about racebikes? Not so easy to warm them up by riding! At best you get a lap before having to give it the berries!
Was going to mention this but then couldn't be *rsed
mister c
21-09-11, 09:29 AM
I basically start my curvy in the shed on choke & leave it ticking over while I lock the shed & push it around the front of the house. By that time it is suitably warm enough to knock the choke off & ride away
MattCollins
21-09-11, 09:45 AM
The only priority that I have before the bike is put into gear is oil flow.
-Ralph-
21-09-11, 09:49 AM
FI Daytona gets started once sitting on the bike and all geared up except gloves and helmet. XT needs 5 seconds on the throttle before it will even tick over, and needs to run for at least 20-30 seconds longer before it's happy enough to half close the choke and ride away, so I start it on the sidestand before I put my jacket on.
There's a massive thread of discussion on this somewhere.
missyburd
21-09-11, 09:57 AM
Choke on till it can rev without spluttering then off. I might put my gloves on while its going but usually I'm ready to go before I fire her up, no point hanging about, fuel is prrrrecious...
Balky001
21-09-11, 10:09 AM
my handbook says something like start the engine, let run for 15-30 seconds and ride off being sympathetic to the engine.
Sid Squid
21-09-11, 10:44 AM
Ok el wise Squid- What about racebikes? Not so easy to warm them up by riding! At best you get a lap before having to give it the berries!
A race bike and you're worrying about engine life? :rolleyes:
Anyway - if we must:
Start it and once the motor has settled, (ie 10-20 seconds*), rev it, don't go mad - you just want to get heat through it with some oil pressure, so don't let it idle.
Was going to mention this but then couldn't be *rsed
Never be afraid to ask daft questions - them's mostly what we do here :D.
*And if it doesn't then fix it - something's wrong.
Matt Lund FTW
21-09-11, 12:39 PM
Something I want to do on my '00 SV650s which does not have a temp gauge is fit a warning light to the dash connected to a normally closed thermo switch on the radiator, the light will go out when the radiator gets warm so I know it's at normal operating (wring it's neck) temperature! Anyone else done a mod like this?
carelesschucca
21-09-11, 01:38 PM
Ok el wise Squid- What about racebikes? Not so easy to warm them up by riding! At best you get a lap before having to give it the berries!
I remember the article in Motorcycle Racer and this was discussed. I can't remember the engine builders name (and he's well known I knew his face) he said a race bike should be warmed up 20 to 25 minutes before they are used, then re-warmed up just before they were taken on to the track. Main reason for it was coolant warmed quicker than the oil temps and by running the engine this gave the oil time to warm before giving the engine the berries. I gave the magazine to my cousin when he was still road racing so can't even take quotes from it...
-Ralph-
21-09-11, 02:14 PM
Something I want to do on my '00 SV650s which does not have a temp gauge is fit a warning light to the dash connected to a normally closed thermo switch on the radiator, the light will go out when the radiator gets warm so I know it's at normal operating (wring it's neck) temperature! Anyone else done a mod like this?
http://www.hiperf.com/acatalog/instructions908112.pdf
k1ngy SV
21-09-11, 07:22 PM
Okay thanks.. EVERYONEEE !!!! for all the reply's (:
Everyone can be releaved that il ride it from the end of my road.. like i stole it ! mauaahhau !!!!
hardhat_harry
21-09-11, 07:52 PM
A race bike and you're worrying about engine life? :rolleyes:
Anyway - if we must:
Start it and once the motor has settled, (ie 10-20 seconds*), rev it, don't go mad - you just want to get heat through it with some oil pressure, so don't let it idle.
Never be afraid to ask daft questions - them's mostly what we do here :D.
*And if it doesn't then fix it - something's wrong.
Race bike - 5 - 10 minutes before race warm it on idle once up to temperature blip throttle increasing revs as you go continue for approx 1-2 minutes ensuring you reach at least 75% of throttle, shut off engine, just before final call turn engine back on, go and race.
It was explained to me why years ago but cant quite remember (I will go and find out though) but this method is used through club racing all the way up to MotoGP so it must be the correct method.
lukemillar
21-09-11, 08:01 PM
A race bike and you're worrying about engine life? :rolleyes:
Anyway - if we must:
Start it and once the motor has settled, (ie 10-20 seconds*), rev it, don't go mad - you just want to get heat through it with some oil pressure, so don't let it idle.
Never be afraid to ask daft questions - them's mostly what we do here :D.
*And if it doesn't then fix it - something's wrong.
It wasn't daft! I value Ian's opinion and was genuinely curious. I pretty much do what you describe anyway. Of course I worry about engine life! Since it is a racebike, any little thing I can do to prolong engine life has to be a good thing! ;)
and thanks to all the other who posted as well :)
k1ngy SV
22-09-11, 05:37 PM
thanks to all the other who posted as well :)
you stole what i should of said :smt019
phil24_7
26-09-11, 02:32 PM
Wait until the temp gage spits out a figure before I ride it (I think 20-23 degrees C), don't use too many revs until 40 degrees or so and wont cane it or accelerate hard until it is up around the 70-80 degrees C.
Regards
Matt Lund FTW
08-10-11, 10:58 AM
Cheers Ralph, i'll keep an eye out for one!
On most carb bikes they say around 40-1min of full choke and then easy off to no choke before getting the revs above 6k.
I think you need to have one of these things atleast once and you'll know all about them when or if you buy a carbed bike.
E.g if you never ride in the snow and one day get cought out in the snow you'll s*it yourself becasue you won't know how to handle the situation. (<- if that makes sense)
If I were to buy a FI bike I'd still let it idle for about 40-1min just to let the oil sink and circulate before riding.
TBH, if you can afford the Bike, Insurance + Tax I'm pretty sure you can afford to lose 40p(Max) in fuel.
yorkie_chris
08-10-11, 06:57 PM
It's not about the fuel, it's about the best way to warm it up... which is by riding it gently. Only stand there warming it up until it will tick over by itself.
It's not about the fuel, it's about the best way to warm it up... which is by riding it gently. Only stand there warming it up until it will tick over by itself.
Reason why I stated fuel in my first post was I read eailer on in the pages that someone moaned about losing fuel while it was ticking over. so I made a point about it.
Also, with the FI bike i'm sure you don't get a choke so either way id still let it idle for around 40-1min just so all the oil is running.
-Ralph-
08-10-11, 08:13 PM
Also, with the FI bike i'm sure you don't get a choke so either way id still let it idle for around 40-1min just so all the oil is running.
Please can you explain why the oil would need 40 seconds to 'run', and where it is running to and from?
yorkie_chris
08-10-11, 08:30 PM
Also, with the FI bike i'm sure you don't get a choke so either way id still let it idle for around 40-1min just so all the oil is running.
The SV doesn't have a choke either, it's got a cold start lever/idle enrichment.
Well if you think about what the "choke" on SV does (I'm guessing you don't know), it richens the mixture and opens a small passageway to let a little more air in.
Whereas an FI bike, obviously has no choke. It has a map which says it must add more fuel when cold, and operates the secondary throttle valve to press a lever on the main throttle cam to let more air in. The upshot being a faster, rich idle. Sound familiar?
The SV doesn't have a choke either, it's got a cold start lever/idle enrichment.
Yes the Curvy model does have a choke lever a cold/start lever is also known as a 'choke'. (Read The Manual) Let me quote something. "This Motorcycle has a choke system to provide easy starting when the engine is cold." (So yes it does have a choke)
Well if you think about what the "choke" on SV does (I'm guessing you don't know), it richens the mixture and opens a small passageway to let a little more air in.
I'm 'Guessing' you don't know how to read I said nothing about the choke opening or closing a 'small passageway' so why you stated that I don't know. (I know how the choke works I've ridden a carbed 2T for 2years.)
Also your wrong, it doesn't allow more air to get in it reduces the air flow allowing more fuel to be burnt, thus making the engine fire quicker than usuall. ("Cold start")
Whereas an FI bike, obviously has no choke. It has a map which says it must add more fuel when cold, and operates the secondary throttle valve to press a lever on the main throttle cam to let more air in. The upshot being a faster, rich idle. Sound familiar?
Also why your 're-quoting' me I don't know, I orignally said I'm sure the FI bike doesn't have a choke, why you call it a choke on the FI bike but not the carbed I have no idea. before replying read what I said.
(I'm not trying to sound arsy atall, just your putting it across to me asif you think I don't know, yet you don't know me atall, or anything on my biking knowlage for that matter.
Please can you explain why the oil would need 40 seconds to 'run', and where it is running to and from?
Ok I might be slightly exaggerating on the 40seconds, but it states in the manual " Allow suffucuent idling time after cold engine start to allow lubricating oil to reach all critical engine components" 'To me' thats more than 20seconds, Yes 40 seconds may be abit too much.
yorkie_chris
09-10-11, 05:07 PM
Also your wrong, it doesn't allow more air to get in it reduces the air flow allowing more fuel to be burnt, thus making the engine fire quicker than usuall. ("Cold start")
Have a look in an SV carb and come back to me on that one.
FI has no choke either, it has a fast idle and idle enrichment, which does exactly the same thing as the carb un.
How exactly would reducing air flow allow more fuel to be burnt?
-Ralph-
09-10-11, 05:12 PM
I think we need a shovel.
Have a look in an SV carb and come back to me on that one.
FI has no choke either, it has a fast idle and idle enrichment, which does exactly the same thing as the carb un.
How exactly would reducing air flow allow more fuel to be burnt?
I never anywhere in any post said the FI bike has a choke, read the last post before replying, either your too dumb to read or just can't
Weird that, I own one. I have read the manual unlike others instead of trying to argue your point with me go and take it up with Suzuki or the manual producers.
your arguing against what the manual says and if you still think your right then so be it whatever don't come on the forum and ask for help when something goes wrong.
Before replying, read the manual.
don't try argue with me about it.
and with regards to the reducing air flow read the blithering manual. i'm quoting from the manual and if you are arguing or trying to advise me on it then you should think about your biking knowlage yourself.
& Ralph go have a cup of tea - i've told you the answer to your question and you bring that people like yourself are just a pathetic internet chump, and try to get pleasure out of fourm bashing. grow up.
I've told & replyed to what you asked and explained myself enough go read the manual.
yorkie_chris
09-10-11, 06:00 PM
Well, aren't you a stroppy little brat. Thanks for brightening up my evening :)
You are telling me not to come on the forum and ask for advice, that's quite rich (no pun intended...), I was not offering an opinion, I'm telling you how the cold start feature on an SV carb works.
The manual is wrong, it has to be understood by americans, so they put bullsh*t in it that drunken rednecks can understand.
If you want to understand things you have to see how they work, the writings in various books won't tell you half as much as getting your fingers in the petrol and seeing how they work.
P.S
You can quote from the manual as much as you like, if your quotes are accurate then they are wrong. I have not read the suzuki owners manual. I have 3 sets of carbs in the garage in bits, you're actually welcome to pop round and see how they work and maybe it might give you an idea of who you're talking to, what I know and what you know.
P.S.S
I also have an aprilia RS125 carb kicking about here, that one doesn't work like your idea of reducing air flow either ;)
Teejayexc
09-10-11, 06:05 PM
1) Before replying, read the manual.
don't try argue with me about it.
and with regards to the reducing air flow read the blithering manual. i'm quoting from the manual and if you are arguing or trying to advise me on it then you should think about your biking knowlage yourself.
2) & Ralph Go have acupof tea yourself
1) Yeh, YC read the manual you heathen :p
2) This thread is useless without pics ;)
-Ralph-
09-10-11, 06:12 PM
Wheyhey =D>
He is a stroppy wee brat isn't he? :lol:
In 5 years on the forum I don't think I've ever seen Chris come on and ask for help when something has gone wrong mechanically on an SV, he simply doesn't need to. I have seen him offer a lot of knowledgeable help in countless threads however. YC's technical posts come from hands-on experience.
Know it alls like you that re-post wrong information because they've read it from a manual, but actually don't have a clue are exactly what we don't need.
yorkie_chris
09-10-11, 06:19 PM
Don't get me wrong I've had my fair share of head-scratching, broken parts, skinned knuckles and small fires... but in about 10 years of farting about with all manner of bikes, my own, my mates, my customers... well I'm still learning.
But you know, someone who's had an SV a month has read the manual so I'd best drop in line and listen up ;)
TBH, The manual hasn't let me down in any bike i've owned, both the user and haynes.
You say I "Re-post" look back a few pages where 'Chris' has reposted pretty much everything I've said.
My first post was aimed at someone a few pages back moaning about fuel consumption while it ticking over.
& I said "I'm sure the FI bike doesn't have a choke"
Why did you orignally repost what I said Chris?
You might think the manual is bulldroppings 'Personal Opinion', but instead of arguing why don't you say you think the manual is bulldroppings rather than waste both out time?
& I don't think I know it all atall, if I did think that I wouldn't have put in one of my posts "quoting from the manual" I would have just said it.
Anyone with different views or helpfull views on biking knowlage I listen too, Unfortuantly Chris hasn't been helpfull atall just decided to repost everything I've said.
I also replied to your question and your next post was 'Were going to need a shovel". ?
-Ralph-
09-10-11, 06:32 PM
2) This thread is useless without pics ;)
Ha, ha, missed that bit. Nah, even if I was gonna try that, you REALLY wouldn't want pics.
yorkie_chris
09-10-11, 06:37 PM
Unfortuantly Chris hasn't been helpfull atall just decided to repost everything I've said.
At various points I've told you how I warm bikes up and why, how the curvy cold start system works, how the pointy cold start system works and why this is the same effect as the curvy one.
And I've also offered to let you come over here and look at some genuine SV parts in bits to see exactly how they work for yourself.
Was this not helpful?
At various points I've told you how I warm bikes up and why, how the curvy cold start system works, how the pointy cold start system works and why this is the same effect as the curvy one.
Was this not helpful?
Not atall, the way you put things across is a joke. My first post wasn't aimed at me warming up the engine atall, it was simply the fact I stated fuel consumption and 1 line about the FI bike (which I was correct)
Yet you still managed to argue, and make a point out of nothing. I also told you the reasons why I said that and you still managed to argue.
yorkie_chris
09-10-11, 06:45 PM
Not atall, the way you put things across is a joke.
You're right. It is, 100%, a joke. It's about serious mechanical matters, but it's all a joke. And you have completely proven that you can't take one.
But if you've read anything I've written then you now know more about carbs than you did before so I think karma is on my side.
I probably come across as some sarcastic, patronising git. I don't think I'll lose sleep over it if I'm honest.
Biker Biggles
09-10-11, 06:47 PM
So have we decided that warming up is a bad idea,the oil circulates fairly instantly,the engine reaches optimum temp most quickly and with least wear if you ride it gently straight away?:rolleyes:
Thats what Hitler said the last two dozen times we asked him:D
You're right. It is, 100%, a joke. It's about serious mechanical matters, but it's all a joke. And you have completely proven that you can't take one.
But if you've read anything I've written then you now know more about carbs than you did before so I think karma is on my side.
I probably come across as some sarcastic, patronising git. I don't think I'll lose sleep over it if I'm honest.
I can take a joke just as good as the next guy, and I have read everything you've written otherwise I wouldn't have quoted everything you've said. I've also managed to read everything I've said twice since you've repeted me on numerous occasion's.
and Nor will I.
-Ralph-
09-10-11, 06:55 PM
Thats what Hitler said the last two dozen times we asked him:D
:lol:
Embee did a brilliant post on this subject once, but I can't find it!
AZZ3R - I am a mechanical numpty. Putting oil into the right hole is technically challenging to me. This is why I have watched, listened and learned very closely to assertain whose advice I should trust. I've come to the conclusion there are 3, maybe 4, people on the org whose advice and opinion I trust. Therefore when one of these people says something,I believe it and act on it whenever appropriate.
Yorkie Chris is one of these people. His manner may be abrupt at times, but he sure as hell knows what he's talking about.
Go and have a long read of all of the advice on here (not just this thread), then come back with a possibly slightly less *****ly approach
fizzwheel
09-10-11, 07:14 PM
Oh dear...
We've got an ER6F in at work with a piston that's cracked right across the top in line with the gudgeon pin. The owner confessed that he never warms the engine before revving it, he just sets off as soon as it's started and canes it. £2500 worth of damage to repair with new parts cos it needs a new set of barrels, which means a new set of pistons and it's done a con-rod too. We're breaking it for spares.
I don't let my bike sit there ticking over, I ride it from cold but keep the revs down and treat it as if running in until it's warmed up, only then will I start using the revs
victor_meldrew
09-10-11, 07:49 PM
It's not about the fuel, it's about the best way to warm it up... which is by riding it gently. Only stand there warming it up until it will tick over by itself.
+ 1 from me ... I will try to put the choke in as soon as possible, and then ride slowly or the first couple o miles
yorkie_chris
09-10-11, 08:42 PM
We've got an ER6F in at work with a piston that's cracked right across the top in line with the gudgeon pin.
I don't let my bike sit there ticking over, I ride it from cold but keep the revs down and treat it as if running in until it's warmed up, only then will I start using the revs
Cold seize leading to failure?
Warm up you describe also has advantage of warming tyres before you push them too, makes them last.
Cold seize leading to failure?
Warm up you describe also has advantage of warming tyres before you push them too, makes them last.
I use the warming up time to warm myself up in the morning and evening, to acclimatise myself with the bike again.
ER6s and Versys have very short skirted pistons, they need proper warming up otherwise the pistons do rock a bit. There is cold seizure damage to the l/h cylinder. The guy has bought a new bike from us and we took it in px - we could get the cylinder replated, fit a new piston and a new rod, but the bike is a scruffy 2008 model, has 23,000 miles and looks like it has never been washed after three winters. It really isn't worth our while rebuilding it so I'll break it.
enzoalex
09-10-11, 11:45 PM
I always try to warm my bike up before pushing it.
However sometimes I wait a while before setting off because I know I'll be going down a dual carriageway almost instantly.
So do you guys think it's ok to start the bike, get going and within about 2 minutes be doing 50/60 down a dual carriageway. I normally try and find a longer route to get there through the local neighbourhood, to help the bike warm up a bit.
-Ralph-
10-10-11, 07:29 AM
So do you guys think it's ok to start the bike, get going and within about 2 minutes be doing 50/60 down a dual carriageway. I normally try and find a longer route to get there through the local neighbourhood, to help the bike warm up a bit.
Yes, it's fine, so long as you take it easy. Just accelerate up to speed the same rate as the rest of the traffic, and keep the revs below 6-7k. It's not a question of speed.
hardhat_harry
10-10-11, 09:37 PM
I'm still waiting for the picture of Ralph with a cup of tea.
I'm still waiting for the picture of Ralph with a cup of tea.
ITYM a bottle of that disgusting muck they call whisky, Ralph's jockanese.
DJFridge
11-10-11, 09:19 PM
ITYM a bottle of that disgusting muck they call whisky, Ralph's jockanese.
Ya heathen, nay wrang wi' a wee dram o' Glenmorangie.
-Ralph-
11-10-11, 09:22 PM
He's a lager lout! ;-)
lx_online
11-10-11, 09:34 PM
I'm still waiting for the picture of Ralph with a cup of tea.
Same here. Ha!
Also, the first thing I learnt after being on this forum is that YC knows everything and, therefore, is god. Thou shalt not question....but apparently flaming is OK.
yorkie_chris
12-10-11, 09:21 AM
Lol!
I don't! And I'm not! I have been and am often wrong, question and consider everything until it makes sense.
phil24_7
12-10-11, 10:46 AM
Something that is without question though YC is that being a Yorkshireman, if there is a cheaper way of doing something, you will find it and if there is a way to make something last longer, you are already doing it!
lx_online
12-10-11, 05:47 PM
... if there is a way to make something last longer, you are already doing it!
:rolleyes:
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