View Full Version : Yet another fork mod, vtr forks anyone?
I've been on the lookout for a set of cbr f3 forks for absolute ages, with no real luck, the ones I have found have been to expensive or damaged in some way.
Browsing ebay today I saw a set of vtr forks for £120 and pretty local too, a bit of a search revealed they were 41mm showas and were cartridge forks =D>
I snapped them up and they currently reside in the shed fully stripped down, the bushings are like new, and there's no marks on the chrome. The vtr stanchion is 35mm longer than the sv, think that's about the same as the f3 mod?
The Vtr and sv springs are about the same length (the sv is around 10mm longer) I'm going to fit the sv springs as they are progressives, i'll just need to cut the spacer a little.
Also stripped down the stock sv forks, the vtr stanchions slip right in, looks like the only difference is the shock bottom bolt, on the vtr it's 8mm and on the sv it's 10mm, Nothing a few minutes with a drill and tap won't fix.
Not sure if I need to do a re-valve, claimed vtr weight is 192kg and sv is 169kg or a23kg lighter. Plus info is on the light side. I may just do these (http://www.ablett.jp/bikes/vtr/vtr_sus.htm) mods and be done with it.
Also if your wondering why i just didn't go for a gsxr front end, the bike only cost me £850 so I'll be dammed if I'm spending another £400 on front suspension mods ;)
(http://www.ablett.jp/bikes/vtr/vtr_sus.htm)
maviczap
03-10-11, 06:33 PM
http://cdn.tfw2005.com/boards/images/smilies/this_thread_is_useless_without_pics.gif
When you're ready :p
looking foward to an alternative to the GSXR front end, even though I've done it myself
there's pics in the works but it's only of parts at the moment, just got to order some new seals and it'll be rebuild time :D
stormingjoe
03-10-11, 06:54 PM
I am thinking of doing same mod, got the vtr forks waiting to be fitted to sv lowers, would be interested in your findings.
ChrisSV
03-10-11, 07:44 PM
I'll be keeping upto date with this thread. Even though I've got a set of F3 forks in many bits, waiting to be machined to fit into my SV forks. It'll be interesting to see how you get on.
Fraser24
04-10-11, 04:50 PM
I fitted VFR ( prob similar to VTR ) cartridges to a Curvey a few years ago, no real problem, just check that the bottom of the lowers where the cartridge seats is flat or you might need a substantial steel washer to go in first, Fraser
your correct Fraser, everything goes together pretty easily, biggest job was re-threading the compression stack bolt hole - the bit that bolts up from the bottom of the fork, from m8 (vtr) to m10 x 1(sv). Did that at work today during my lunch break.
Just done a quick trial fit of all the parts, no issues at all, like it was made that way :D
used the sv lowers / bottom bolt, outer bush, oil & dust seal and sv progressive spring. Everything else is vtr parts. The fork ends up being 20mm longer than the stock sv forks, which is a bonus as I want to fit a set of flat bars, all I may have to do is lift the rear a little and call it good.
Now waiting on new oil seals and a couple of O-rings before final assembly. I can't upload any photos as my hosting site is down :(
Why do manufactures insist on fitting crappy suspension as standard, had the same type of forks on my f650gs, nothing a set of 46mm usd forks off a yz426 didn't fix tho ;)
this is a much easier job than fitting those was :smt045
:smt013 Figured I may as well hold off ordering the fork seals until I'd checked the head bearings, can I bollox get the chromed top nut undone, even using a old fork leg on the end of the socket drive for more leverage. Ended up resorting to a bfh on the fork leg and it still didn't budge.
Soaked the thing in wd40, if that doesn't work I'm going to break out the dremel and grind the ferking thing off :-x
Ordered new taper bearings anyway. :rolleyes:
So it should not be long until its back together, just need demon tweeks to pull their finger out of their **** and deliver the new rear tyre. :rolleyes:
:smt045
http://rcmad.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/sv-650/i-b5Tg6dZ/0/XL/IMG0063-XL.jpg
Does something about those forks look different to you :D
All together with no major dramas, other than i forgot that the aluminium bottom seat out of the vtr forks would also need opening out from 8.5mm to 10.5mm, sorted now tho.
Also in another twist of fate the finished vtr / sv combo leg is 29mm longer than the stock sv leg (from centre of axle to top) Which also just happens to be the same as the thickness of the clipon, so i'll be able to run the clipons above the triple and set the forks flush with the top to keep stock ride height, I hope.
First ride will be to the mot man on saturady, will report back and pop some pics up of the forks on the bike at some stage after that
yorkie_chris
13-10-11, 10:01 PM
Cool, should be interesting.
Similar to what I do fitting GSXR cartridges.
andrewsmith
14-10-11, 11:19 AM
Will be interested to see the results.
Did you do anything to the valving or springs to suit the different dry weights?
Nope I've left the valving as is for now, it may be spot on as is, from vtr forums i have read the front end seems to be under sprung, there is the odd comment about the forks going solid under hard braking but we'll see. There are a couple of things I want to do to the forks but it's been off the road for 4 weeks now waiting for a rear tyre, I'll be dammed if its staying off for much longer whilst the weather is decent.
All I need to do before 1pm tomorrow is fill and set the oil height, fit the forks and then fit both wheels, easy #-o
:smt045
Also in another twist of fate the finished vtr / sv combo leg is 29mm longer than the stock sv leg (from centre of axle to top) Which also just happens to be the same as the thickness of the clipon, so i'll be able to run the clipons above the triple and set the forks flush with the top to keep stock ride height, I hope.
I had a plan of doing this with the F3 forks, but I have a feeling the clip-ons may foul the fairing.
yorkie_chris
15-10-11, 08:31 AM
Them going solid in hard braking I found was not enough comp or spring, if you compensate with air gap it skitters in same places, lets you blow through all travel. Still better than stock SV though. YMMV.
Well it flew through the mot which is nice, so I spent a bit of time fiddling with the suspension, setting static sag and all that jazz.
All I can say is holy cow what a difference :D
Turns out i had the zx6 shock preload set-up way too light so it was bottoming out, sorting that out helped tremendously but the biggest improvement has been the front end, it just feels so much better, I took it down a few roads I'd normally only take the dakar and it shrugged them off like it was nothing at all, had a tiny bit of head shake mid corner but it was gone almost instantly.
Also hit a really rough section at speed and it didn't upset it one bit, with the stock front end it'd have been all over the place. Another thing I have noticed is that I'm not getting jarring though the bars any more.
Going out for a run tomorrow but so far i'm more than pleased :D
cb1000rsteve
15-10-11, 08:39 PM
The VTR forks should help immensely as the best thing about ther VTR was the front end. Once on its ear it would hold the line beutifully. With less weight all i can see is a win win situation. Good mod
i would tend to agree with you after the blast i had today, big grins all the way. :D
? Wouldn't have be easer to fit a set of emulators though?
CodeJACK
17-10-11, 12:12 PM
So its VTR 1000 F that these are from? Any particular years?
And this will work with curvy and pointy right?
yorkie_chris
17-10-11, 02:01 PM
? Wouldn't have be easer to fit a set of emulators though?
Cartridge is better than emulators. Less change with temperature, better rebound, more options of compression damping.
So its VTR 1000 F that these are from? Any particular years?
And this will work with curvy and pointy right?
Different bottom bolt size, but same principle.
Also bottom out may be different if you want hydraulic bottom out in there.
? Wouldn't have be easer to fit a set of emulators though?
I had emulators fitted in the standard sv forks and they just were not doing it for me, perhaps because I'd been spoiled by my other fork mod. Went from 41mm damper rod forks to fully adjustable 46mm usd forks on my bmw f650 dakar. The change on that bike was night and day.
So its VTR 1000 F that these are from? Any particular years?
And this will work with curvy and pointy right?
It works with the curvy, you'll just need access to a lathe to re - tap the hole in the bottom of the cartridge (it's an ally part that holds the compression stack and is removable from the cartridge) and a ally cup that goes over the bottom of the cartridge. The stock sv bolt is m10 fine pitch (1mm I believe) whilst the vtr fork is m8 standard pitch.
If the pointy is m8 it's a drop in replacement. I ditched all the internals from the stock sv fork btw.
I used to have a 1998 VTR from brand new. If I remember correctly weren't the forks the worst part of the bike?(as well as guzzling petrol!) They did used to lock up and 'clatter' into hard braking zones. Frightened me to death first time it happened on snake pass! All the mags at the time advised to get them sent off to Maxtons to sort out. Maybe they won't be worked as hard on a lighter bike?
CodeJACK
18-10-11, 09:16 AM
I used to have a 1998 VTR from brand new. If I remember correctly weren't the forks the worst part of the bike?(as well as guzzling petrol!) They did used to lock up and 'clatter' into hard braking zones. Frightened me to death first time it happened on snake pass! All the mags at the time advised to get them sent off to Maxtons to sort out. Maybe they won't be worked as hard on a lighter bike?
Wow, would be nice to find a second hand pair that had already been sent to Maxton all that time ago :-)
Refresh em and you would have an even better fork again. :rolleyes:
are the older RWU ZX6r forks not 41mm as well?
CodeJACK
19-10-11, 08:34 AM
It works with the curvy, you'll just need access to a lathe to re - tap the hole in the bottom of the cartridge (it's an ally part that holds the compression stack and is removable from the cartridge) and a ally cup that goes over the bottom of the cartridge. The stock sv bolt is m10 fine pitch (1mm I believe) whilst the vtr fork is m8 standard pitch.
If the pointy is m8 it's a drop in replacement. I ditched all the internals from the stock sv fork btw.
Ah, just read over this again...
So this mod is not possible for my pointy? the forks have different diameter and internals?
andrewsmith
19-10-11, 08:38 AM
Ah, just read over this again...
So this mod is not possible for my pointy? the forks have different diameter and internals?
PM Yorkie as he'll have the best idea
I think the VTR cartridge mod would be possible as the dimensions are the same
yorkie_chris
19-10-11, 11:05 AM
Why PM me I'm right here, don't have everyone clogging my inbox!
Should work same, try it.
CodeJACK
19-10-11, 01:38 PM
Why PM me I'm right here, don't have everyone clogging my inbox!
Should work same, try it.
Worth the wait :p
Yeah, i figured you would chime in.
If i can get the cash together, i think ill give this a go.
saintnick
19-10-11, 07:14 PM
Sorry to bore the tits off everyone, but roughly speaking if a VTR/Gixxer front end is a reasonably straightforward mod, does that apply to both naked and faired SVs? ie apart from the clip ons and associated bit n bobs, were the naked and faired forks identical ( curvy )?
Is there a thread which basically lists do-able front end converion options? Could anyone advise as to a decent option for a lock stock job, ie including discs and callipers?
ta much
yorkie_chris
19-10-11, 07:19 PM
With the longer fork uppers of the VTR it may be a problem on the naked as they'll foul the bars.
However, the forks are identical. Though you wouldn't want to drop the forks down in the yokes by the 29mm measured above as that will slow the steering down and make all the usual rear end problems worse.
saintnick
19-10-11, 08:43 PM
cheers Chris.
What would be yours or anyones recommendation for a complete naked front end inc discs and callipers... its just that I know of an 04 GSXR 750 which is being broken not far away, no idea if that would be a tricky one on the naked. If so, anything deffo worth looking out for?
cheers Chris.
What would be yours or anyones recommendation for a complete naked front end inc discs and callipers... its just that I know of an 04 GSXR 750 which is being broken not far away, no idea if that would be a tricky one on the naked. If so, anything deffo worth looking out for?
if you could get that complete front end at a good price then bite their hand off. you will loose the steering lock and will need a top bearing if its going on a curvy. you can make a new position hole for the lock.
saintnick
19-10-11, 09:05 PM
Yup curvy naked. Not sure if 04 was six or four pot, to be honest if price is right I'll go for entire front end. If it doesn't happen for whatever reason, any other recommendations curvy naked wise? ;)
04 is 4 pot radial front end. they are the doggyz doooodahz. if you can get the entire front end with wheel and everything else (basically just unbolted from headstock) then go for it if the price is right.
saintnick
19-10-11, 11:14 PM
Just heard more.
They are indeed from an 04 750, undamaged. Forks, bottom yoke, wheel spindle, calliper bolts and a damper. That's it. No front wheel, disc, callipers. And not a local breaker, funny how the grapevine works. ;) Anyway....
... the guy is looking for 350 quid. Assuming they are kosher, would you?
And if you would, its basically drop em in ie fit SV front wheel / callipers, no messing? Apart from the top bearing (naked fitment)?
hardhat_harry
19-10-11, 11:18 PM
I would expect the whole front end for £350 inc calipers, top yoke and lines but I'm tight.
none of the SV parts will fit apart from the lock.
£350 is a bit steep. as you will need another £400-500 for the other parts.
wheel usually go for around £160
Discs from blackshadow are £180
mudguard go for about £30-60
callipers go for about £60-100
lines are about £60-70 for full set
Disc bolts are £25-50
bars are £50-100
top yoke are £35-70
factor in for new pads and other bits like mudguard bolts etc.etc and the price goes skyward.
you can get a set on ebay from the states but then you are looking at import tax if they get noticed and heavy postage. if you get them threw customs without paying import tax then its usually good value but if not its about the same from here so swings and roundabouts.
think that's why people look at dong things like the VTR internals swap as you keep everything from the SV so in reality only costs what the donar forks are plus new oil and seals.
saintnick
20-10-11, 08:21 PM
hmm. ta much for that. Once you start getting up to the value of the bike in one mod, you maybe need to think again. I picked the bike up as a winter ride, might be different if I knew for certain that it was going to be a long termer keeper. It may be, but right now I can't justify that - we all know you never recover the value of mods anyway. If I found an entire front end for 400 ish, that might be worth looking at.
Re-valving and spring for weight would be another option (I've had mixed results with prog springs over the years).
that's what I thought nick, the bike simply isn't worth enough to justify the expenditure.
bike has been sat in work all week as I've been slogging up and down the country in a fiesta :(
It'll be back out at the weekend tho :D
I used to have a 1998 VTR from brand new. If I remember correctly weren't the forks the worst part of the bike?(as well as guzzling petrol!) They did used to lock up and 'clatter' into hard braking zones. Frightened me to death first time it happened on snake pass! All the mags at the time advised to get them sent off to Maxtons to sort out. Maybe they won't be worked as hard on a lighter bike?
I read some reviews that went along the lines of what you said and according to the specs the sv is supposedly 20kg lighter than the vtr. The accepted work around for locking up under braking seems to be drilling a 1mm hole in the side of the cartridge, or that is my understanding of it at least.
I've had no locking up issues under braking yet, went for a 'spirited' ride last Sunday and they performed flawlessly. I also took the bike down a road I'd normally only take the other bike down as its a fairly bumpy back road. It handled it just fine, no jarring coming back through the clip ons and no undue noises.
I have noticed it dives less than the old set-up on the brakes tho.
saintnick
22-10-11, 12:32 AM
funnily enough RC I spent some time on a firestorm recently. It was suffering from unhelpful rubber at the time, but while the bike held a line fine I'd say that once you pushed on the forks were a bit soft, like so many JAP OE forks from a few years back the spring rate isn't suitable for any but the lightest rider, no amount of suspension adjustment is going to change that fact.
Yup cartridge forks should in theory be an improvement but the internal components need to work properly (obviously) and be suited to the rider. People with RWUs on various machines are constantly trying USDs from this and that, but USDs are only as good as what is inside them, they too may need valve assistance or different springs.
That is why getting the most out of what is in situ by sorting springs and re-valving can be a good route, always assuming that the original forks have valves which can be adjusted manually via damping.... over the years I've spent more time agonising about front ends than is good for me (!) The Japanese seemed to have a view that unless you had a top of the range sportsbike, you didn't need suspension that was any more than barely adequate.
The nicest surprise I've had on a hack was an RF900 - basically early Bandit 12 RWU forks, I think, but for some reason they were superb. I don't think they'd be re-sprung, and that bike does have a reputation for outhandling its spec by a distance. As did the mk1 B12. No idea if they'd be an easy fit on the SV?
The late RF 900 s2 only had compresion damping adjustment ,but like you say its supprising how good it is. A much underrated bike.
saintnick
22-10-11, 06:23 PM
If I could find some RF9 mk2s and they were a striaghtforward fit, I'b buy em like a shot since they go for SFA.
I'd say they were near the top of the list in terms of RWU front ends, they are one reason why stock 9s always surprise people handling wise.
Generally speaking, top RWUs are value for money and easily capable of out performing some USDs.
Question is, which decent RWUs would fit the curvey naked without too much grief?
maviczap
22-10-11, 06:32 PM
If I could find some RF9 mk2s and they were a striaghtforward fit, I'b buy em like a shot since they go for SFA.
I'd say they were near the top of the list in terms of RWU front ends, they are one reason why stock 9s always surprise people handling wise.
Generally speaking, top RWUs are value for money and easily capable of out performing some USDs.
Question is, which decent RWUs would fit the curvey naked without too much grief?
YC fitted GSXR600 RWU forks, don't know how difficult, but no more so that fitting USD forks
CodeJACK
22-10-11, 10:07 PM
Bollox chops!
Was outbid on VTR forks that seemed perfect. Plans on hold for now :rolleyes:
GSXR 600 RWU up to 1999 are the cheapest option as the wheels are a lot cheaper and easier to find. add in a little more cash for a re-valve and springs and they would more than likely out perform most GSXR USD forks. 2000-2003 gsxr 600 need a different wheel but its also the same wheel that fits gsxr USD forks up to k5 so are like hens teeth.
if it were my money and a set of USD were going to cost the same as RWU with a re-valve it would have to be the RWU after all we swap the front end for performance and comfort.
yorkie_chris
23-10-11, 09:28 AM
You can use same wheel on those front ends just spacing is little different, shim calipers out a bit IIRC.
Wheel is not easily available, is same for TL1000S/R, Busa, all SRAD... so is quite sought after and expensive :( Cheaper than later ones though...
I have GSXR600 98-99 front end,* they are cheap, internals are slightly different to 750 (USDs...) but same valves, rod is smaller which IMO makes a slight difference to behaviour in comp** but nothing to make night and day.
I can revalve and respring these. Sorted out like this they p*ss all over the stock 750 setup.
*Different to early one, get the later ones with the compression adjusters.
**Which you can completely negate with a totally different valving a la ohlins 30mm kit or late yam R1 setup. With this it does not matter if you have comp adjuster at bottom or not.
CodeJACK
03-11-11, 05:57 PM
Right, managed to get my hands on a set of VTR forks although it might take a while for them to arrive from the US.
Will give this a go and take a few pics of the process when I do.
My SV has gone awefull "wabbley" and its a combo of the head bearing and maybe my fork bushes.
Hope this sorts it out and gives me the added bonus of cartridges :rolleyes:
CodeJACK
04-11-11, 02:01 PM
Just doing a few pre checks...
The bottom bolt on my pointy seems to be 8mm in diameter. Not sure of the pitch.
Could anyone confirm that the pointy fork uses an M8 bolt to hold in the damper rod?
GSXR 600 RWU up to 1999 are the cheapest option as the wheels are a lot cheaper and easier to find. add in a little more cash for a re-valve and springs and they would more than likely out perform most GSXR USD forks. 2000-2003 gsxr 600 need a different wheel but its also the same wheel that fits gsxr USD forks up to k5 so are like hens teeth.
if it were my money and a set of USD were going to cost the same as RWU with a re-valve it would have to be the RWU after all we swap the front end for performance and comfort.
So why won“t the stock SV 650 wheel fit ? (on a gsx RWU fork)
//Mike
what's confusing me slightly is the oil lock bush at the bottom as the curvy and pointy are completely different.
curvy
http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/4060/curvyoillock.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/847/curvyoillock.jpg/)
pointy
http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/4170/pointyoillock.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/804/pointyoillock.jpg/)
looking at a lot of cartridge internals they all seem to be more like the curvy.
is it a case of machining the cartridge oil lock bush to fit in the bottom of the pointy lowers?
another thing that has struck me is why can't we just stick a set of cartridge internals in (after machining the tops)?
So why won“t the stock SV 650 wheel fit ? (on a gsx RWU fork)
//Mike
as its completely different bearing/disc widths and the spindle is wrong size. i have looked into it and the amount of bits to be machined would negate the advantage.
yorkie_chris
04-11-11, 02:57 PM
another thing that has struck me is why can't we just stick a set of cartridge internals in (after machining the tops)?
That's what I do
CodeJACK
15-11-11, 02:03 PM
Forks arried today, tear down will start this weekend i hope. :cool:
CodeJACK
18-11-11, 10:34 PM
OK,going to start this mod tomorrow.
Have not been able to find much info on the right fork oil to use so I think ill start with 7.5,
Also, think ill try to fit the k-tech 9.0N springs that are in my pointy forks as they seems to be the same spring according to K-Tech website.
http://www.k-tech.uk.com/product_detail.php?id=50&PHPSESSID=1f4afa605de41e4bc96f55253dde1d19
The bushings and seals from the VTR forks seems to be in great condition so if I can and like the OP said, ill use as much of the VTR stuff as I can. Might even consider just using the VTR lowers if the GSXR calipers that I have will fit them without adapters and if I can make spacers etc to fit the wheel. :smt115
So ill go to buy the oil in the morning so if there is any advise let me know, thanks
CodeJACK
19-11-11, 11:31 AM
Can I use Red Rubber Grease on my new taper roller headset bearings?
yorkie_chris
19-11-11, 11:34 AM
No.
Use lithium multipurpose or lithium complex, it is available cheaply too.
CodeJACK
19-11-11, 05:37 PM
Cheers, bought some when I went to my local bike shop earlier. Took the Stem with me and they were very kind to press out the stem and bearing race for me.
Give the poor state of corrosion on my lower triple and fork lowers, I've now decided to go have them powder coated before going any further.
On the pointy, this is a very easy and straight swap. All seals and bushes are exactly the same between these forks and my 03 pointy SV.
Some pic are available of progress to date in my flickr account if anyone wants a peak of the fork differences.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/52990092@N05/
CodeJACK
21-11-11, 06:08 PM
Can I cut my K-Tech 9n springs from the pointy forks to fit the VTR forks?
Or maybe not fit the spacer in the VTR fork if it fits?
Got the lowers and triples out to the powder coater today so I get them back Sat morning.
Will go at it again then.
If you cut the springs you will change the spring rate and mess them up .
CodeJACK
21-11-11, 07:39 PM
If you cut the springs you will change the spring rate and mess them up .
Thats the answer I was kinda expecting. gonna have to sell what I have to afford new springs i guess
yorkie_chris
21-11-11, 08:26 PM
How long are they? Just use a different spacer?
CodeJACK
21-11-11, 08:50 PM
How long are they? Just use a different spacer?
VTR Stock = Spring + washer + spacer + washer = 414mm
SV K-Tech = Spring = 425mm
there is a retaining washer at an additional 2mm to be added to both.
It will squash in there if I have to get it in but will this totally screw up sag setting etc?
**** added photo's to flickr account that show the difference - VTR is the shorter spring setup ********
Didn't someone use the Stock springs etc from the Honda?
CodeJACK
22-11-11, 12:01 PM
Didn't someone use the Stock springs etc from the Honda?
Yup, but they seem very soft right now and I cant seem to find any info for what spring rate they actually are.
With the K-tech 9n springs from my pointy forced into the VTR forks with no spacers or washers etc, they seem mega stiff so I would guess that the cartridges would have little affect if I leave it as is.
Someone might have a set of standard Sv springs you might be able to cut and try.
stormingjoe
22-11-11, 02:03 PM
The VTR springs are very soft as standard rated at 70kgs I believe, these are the figures I got for replacement springs to obtain static sag on a VTR, I'm a fatty so fitted Race tech .95 springs, spring length/ spacer/total, 325/85/410 these are custom set from Roger @ Revolution Racing, 340/60/400 fairly standard after market type, this will give correct static on a VTR always replace springs with linear as easier to control, there is very little compression damping on these forks and needs to be sorted when rebuilding, this involves dismantling the cartridge (to debur the insides once drilled) and drilling a hole (1mm) 27 mm from the bottom of the tube or fit gold compression valves-no drilling needed. I have a VTR (tuned forks by PDQ with gold valves)and an SV650 and have a spare set of forks to fit to the SV when the time comes.
There your going to have to spend out d bit more cash .
But you could sell the springs you have to off set the cost of the new ones .
CodeJACK
22-11-11, 09:06 PM
I'll see how I go with stock for now and yeah, i may have to sell some of my SV bits to cover the cost of the right springs.
K-Tech website lists the same springs for the VTR 1000F as they do for the curvy!
So if anyone has curvy K-Tech springs going cheap, I would be interested :-)
Even if someone could confirm the length of the curvy springs?
CodeJACK
29-11-11, 11:16 AM
Finished the build of the forks last night.
Not really delighted with the finish from the powder coater in places but the forks look a lot better than they used to.
Can wait to get this bike back on the road :cool:
Pictures in my flickr account, link in the sig...
CodeJACK
30-11-11, 09:11 PM
The VTR springs are very soft as standard rated at 70kgs I believe, these are the figures I got for replacement springs to obtain static sag on a VTR, I'm a fatty so fitted Race tech .95 springs, spring length/ spacer/total, 325/85/410 these are custom set from Roger @ Revolution Racing, 340/60/400 fairly standard after market type, this will give correct static on a VTR always replace springs with linear as easier to control, there is very little compression damping on these forks and needs to be sorted when rebuilding, this involves dismantling the cartridge (to debur the insides once drilled) and drilling a hole (1mm) 27 mm from the bottom of the tube or fit gold compression valves-no drilling needed. I have a VTR (tuned forks by PDQ with gold valves)and an SV650 and have a spare set of forks to fit to the SV when the time comes.
Reassembly well under way now and your damn right, the VTR stock springs are even more worthless than the stock SV ones. Very soft..
So ill try to cram in the pointy k-tech springs I have and see of they will even work at all. Will let you all know.
All the modifications listed here are done and seem to make a big difference from what I can tell when the standard VTR forks arrived:
http://www.ablett.jp/bikes/vtr/vtr_sus.htm
Not sure if any of it will make any difference to me at all on the road but I like a good mechanical project and this has certainly kept me buy some late evenings this week.
Satin black powdercoat forks look really good against the silver too. Happy so far :D
CodeJACK
01-12-11, 08:57 PM
All done now but have not tested yet.
Had to strip the springs out and put in my pointy springs because the VTR were just way too soft. They bottomed out with me just sitting on it... :smt082
No spacer or washers, just the pointy K-Tech 9n springs with the c washer at the very top.
This setup is 10mm longer than the stock VTR spring and spacer with washer setup.
Seems good so far with some pre-load to take off to allow front to drop.
One this that is very noticeable is the amount of available rebound adjustment. Never thought that would be possible but its kinda cool to get the front end returning really slowly all the way to really fast. Very nice.
Cant wait to go for a spin.
good to hear you got it all together, I fitted the progressive hagons i bought for the sv forks, it works well for me, not done those mods yet. I do occasionally get a dig jolt if I hit a speed bump to fast but otherwise all is good. My sv is now off the road for the winter, so its wheels, swingarm and fork fettling time :D
Robw#70
04-12-11, 05:23 PM
as its completely different bearing/disc widths and the spindle is wrong size. i have looked into it and the amount of bits to be machined would negate the advantage.
The bits aren't that different tbh, from memory you take 3.5mm off the spindle and nut, space the calipers to whatever disc/calipers you used (298/300/310/320 etc)
Imo K4/K5 front end is one of the best usd's valving wise, have fitted them in various bikes now, raced half a season without revalving with no issues, only refined things with re-valve and spring. ;)
yorkie_chris
04-12-11, 05:27 PM
IIRC they have 85s as standard which is a pretty good weight, even if you're above 13st or so they will be useable.
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