connecting extras directly to the battery.

[musne]

Does anyone have any good technique or tips on how to connect 3 or more things wired directly to the battery without having the risk of overloading it or something?

just correct me if I'm talking rubbish!

I've got a K6 pointy and currently I have lighter socket and a stebel horn connected to the battery.

Both very neatly but I'm wondering whether it will cause problems if I'm looking to add more things?:?:

[MJC-DEV]

For top of the range have a look at this:

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/3_Circuit/3_circuit.html

I've just got their dual H4 and Stebel looms

Or Posi-taps: webbike world review here

http://www.webbikeworld.com/r2/posi-tap/posi-tap.htm

[musne]

I quite like this one (http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/3_Circuit/3cs-sealed_1551.jpg) but it's from the US and would take a while to get here.

Any national alternatives? surely!

[MJC-DEV]

Should add I've got the H4 on a ring terminal on the battery, horn ring term on the solenoid and the battery charger posi-tapped off the horn wire.
Delivery from Japan was 7 days and I got hit with the Royal Mail £13.90 fee (and VAT)!

PS: Your link is to the Eastern Beaver one from Japan, just US seller

Otherwise you can make the same if you are handy with a crimp tool :)

[timwilky]

Whilst the concept behind those eastern beaver kits looks ok and replicates what many have done.

Why?

I would say it is 90% functionally the same as I hand wire. The difference really being how/where the off circuits are fused and the use of intermediate connector blocks to add an additional point of failure. and I hand crimp or solder and properly insulate any connection into the existing loom. Positap or any other tap are a waste of time and a point of failure to both the new and existing circuits.

My biggest bugbear with these sort of pre made kits are cable lengths. I like to run wiring neatly and not have to loose excess and to be able to bolt connectors etc to the frame to ensure they are not able to come loose through normal use or get damaged.

Additionally with the above kit. How do I know the quality of the connectors, are they water tight etc. I would prefer to buy my own from my trusted local electrical components factor.

[MJC-DEV]

Each to their own.

Just for info only. The Eastern Beaver H4 loom was exactly the correct length and the quality was superb. The horn loom had one arm too long so I cut and crimped new connectors in the normal way. The relays supplied are very good quality and fully waterproof, I've never seen an automotive relays to the same standard in the UK (but I've not looked beyond usual places). I could have made them myself but only have a crimp tool for the insulated (red, blue yellow) type not the OEM fold over types. Also I've never seen an H4 male adapter than plugs into the existing H4 sockets.

Posi-taps are not 'waste of time' they have their places and have excellent reviews, but I will only use them on low current circuits (such as my battery maintenance charger lead or GPS etc) where a failure will not cause a problem in either circuit. ALL crimps and connectors are a point of failure (green connector/ RR connector burnout anyone?).
I would recommend you read all the info on the EB site as it has good general info about all aspects of bike electrics.

So the answer to "Why?" is that it was easier for me than starting from scratch even though I have most parts, tools and experience.

[musne]

Whilst the concept behind those eastern beaver kits looks ok and replicates what many have done.

Why?

I would say it is 90% functionally the same as I hand wire. The difference really being how/where the off circuits are fused and the use of intermediate connector blocks to add an additional point of failure. and I hand crimp or solder and properly insulate any connection into the existing loom. Positap or any other tap are a waste of time and a point of failure to both the new and existing circuits.

My biggest bugbear with these sort of pre made kits are cable lengths. I like to run wiring neatly and not have to loose excess and to be able to bolt connectors etc to the frame to ensure they are not able to come loose through normal use or get damaged.

Additionally with the above kit. How do I know the quality of the connectors, are they water tight etc. I would prefer to buy my own from my trusted local electrical components factor.

So is it ok to just wire things directly to battery? (at least 3 things so far)

That's why I came here to ask, because I wasn't sure :p

[MJC-DEV]

Yes it's fine!
You can also use the solenoid screw if the battery is too crowded.

But use a fuse in each lead.

[musne]

great thanks, that's all I wanted to know :) :)