View Full Version : How to fit Emulators to a pointy
Urbanfireblade
22-03-12, 11:13 PM
Here's how i did mine, a 2011 Sv650s, i'm not saying its right or wrong, its just here as a reference for anyone interested in doing theirs. *Note, Debrix emulators were installed.
1. Unscrew fork top preload adjuster to take off any excess preload on the springs.
2. Loosen top cap 1/2 turn, use 24mm socket.
3. Loosen wheel spindle clamping bolt, righthand leg, 12mm socket.
4. Loosen wheel spindle, 12mm allen key.
5. Loosen 4x caliper bolts, 14mm socket.
6. Support bike so front wheel is 50mm+ in the air. I used a length of wood under the left and right crash bung, and a sissor jack with a block of wood under the engine as a safety/backup, and a brick to chock the rear wheel.:p
7. Unscrew and remove fork top caps. There's only a little preload on them, it won't fire off like a rocket incase your worried!
8. Lift out the spacer tube(45mm long, 34mm OD, 33mm ID for anyone wanting dimensions to make shorter/longer ones).
9. Lift out the washer.
10. Lift out the fork spring slowly, as oil will be on it, do it quick and oil drips everywhere, do it slowly and most of it will drain back into the fork tube. Have a rag handy to catch any drips.
11. Undo/remove the bolt holding the 3-way brake hose block/splitter to the right fork leg.
12. Remove 4x brake caliper bolts and hang them out of the way with a bungee etc.
13. Undo/remove bolts and clamps holding speedo sensor wire to the left leg.
14. Unscrew and remove fork spindle and front wheel will drop out.
15. Unbolt mudguard, 2x allen headed bolts on outside, 2x hex bolts on the inside.
16. Get a container 1L or larger under the fork leg, use a 6mm allen key in the bottom of the fork legs, locate and unscrew the bolt that holds the damper rod in(put allen key upwards in bottom of the fork and you'll feel it fit in the bolt head), when unscrewing, don't put pressure on the bolt otherwise it lifts up the damper rod and it just spins and won't unscrew, let the bolt wind itself down as you unscrew. You'll see what i mean when you do it! Or you can put a rod/broom handle??? down inside the fork and push the damper rod down to keep it in place as you undo the bolt.
17. Oil will now drain out the bottom of the fork, i had just under 500ml in each leg(492ml). Now push the lower fork leg up(compress fork).
18. Using anything thats 6mm or less diameter(a stick, piece of rod, i used windscreen washer tubing/fishtank air pump tubing!) insert in the bottom of the fork and push the damper rod up to the top and lift it out. You might be able to use a coat hanger wire, all your doing is lifting up the damper rod up to the top of the fork so you can get it out. You can remove the fork tubes and turn them upside down so it drops out but i didn't see the point in doing that. Don't extend the forks too much as i think the lowers can slide off the stanchions now.
19. Back off the nut on the emulator until there is no load on its spring, then slowly tighten until it is starting to press on the spring, and tighten another 2 1/2 turns(Racetech says 2 turns for street, 4 turns for track btw).
20. There are 4x 8mm holes in the damper rods at the bottom. Drill these out to 11mm to stop them having any effect on damping as the emulator will do it from now on. Make sure you deburr them so no metal swarf is left in the tube!
21. Block off the small(1.8mm diameter) rebound hold at the top of the damper rod as the emulator has a hole in it already. I welded mine up, you can do it another way if you like, braze etc, or maybe use a small hammer ball end and pein over the hole till its closed up???
22. The top of the damper rod measured 27.0mm x 7.5mm deep recess, and the emulator measures 23.9mm diameter. So make up an adaptor(*EDITED, i did call it a spacer but confusing people), ie a short tube that is 27.0mm OD, 23.95mm ID and 7.5mm long. Basically to reduce the diameter that the emulator sits in the damping tube. Here's more detail about mine which you don't have to do to yours....... I made mine out of ali, and shrink-fitted it, ie, cooled it in the freezer to shrink it, then quickly dropped it in the top of the damper rod creating a nice tight fit as it expanded. You can choose to do it any way you like, but mine was the same as a press fit without the result of any damage done to the ali adaptor OD from the interference fit i wanted to achieve. I'm a precision engineer and a bit of a perfectionist, so made it 0.02mm larger, shrunk fitted it so its tight in the damper rod and that meant that the emulator was a snug fit also and won't fall out, aiding ease of re-fitment in the forks, ie it stays put on top of the damper rod!
23. Drop the damper rod back in the fork, and re-fit the bolt that holds it in.
24. Pour in your new fork oil, i chose 15wt. Add about 390-400ml(emulator is 14.5mm high so you need less oil than what came out originally). I pumped leg up and down until i heard no more air gurgling noises when extending/compressing the fork so i knew no more air was trapped. Keep adding oil until(with the fork compressed fully) the oil level is 130-140mm from the top of the leg. I overfilled mine and then used a syringe with tube on the end (135mm long), and kept syphoning oil out until no more oil was being sucked out. So i knew each leg had exactly 135mm air gap left.
25. Extend the leg, refit the spring, washer and spacer, then screw on the cap and tighten(have someone steady the front end of the bike as you push down on the cap!). You can shorten the spacer if you like, but as i previously had my preload adjusters fully in, and they gave 14mm total adjustment travel max to min, i've just got them fully out now so it kinda cancels out the emulator height.
26. Refit everything else, its all obvious!-mudguard, wheel, speedo sensor, speedo sensor wiring/clamps, 3-way brake block/splitter, brake caliper, spindle locking bolt and tighten up to torque making sure wheel spins freely. Check for any leaks. Remove from supports and job done!
You can check you static sag is ok, forks work ok, then go for a ride.
I wrote everything down as i done it-step by step, and took 3 1/2hrs in total, that includes driving 3 miles to work, drilling out damper rods, deburring holes, welding up rebound hole, measuring/making ali adaptors to fit emulators, fitting them, driving home. Everything! If you have bought the rods already modded then i'd guess maybe 1hr or slightly more to do this. None of this is difficult, just take it apart and put together again type-of-job.
If you want to comment on any point, please do, but don't rip into me saying 'this is wrong/that is wrong' etc :D, this is just how i did it, thats all!
Thanks this is the type of thing I have been waiting for so that I can see if I will be able to do it looks like I need just wait for my funds to be able afford them. Probably best to get springs and oil sorted at the same time so a bit of saving in order for that.
Grant66
23-03-12, 12:52 AM
Good guide, sounds fairly straight forward.
Two questions:
1. Is the only difference for the curvey that there is no spacer tube to remove (step 8)
2. Is the purpose of the fabricated tube around the emulator just to ease reassembly?
I misread the post at first confusing the custom spacer that you made with the pre-load spacers. I've never had a problem just dropping the emulators into the fork really, just drop 'em in and take a quick peek with a torch to make sure they are sitting upright, job done.
Great instructions. If I removed the rods and was looking for someone to do the spacer (press/shrink fit, either), who/what type of trade would I be looking for? Reluctant to use my local garage and unsure if they could do what I want anyway.
Also, how did/do you deburr drill holes (yes, I'm a noob. Will be looking this up as we speak). Thanks again.
Great instructions. If I removed the rods and was looking for someone to do the spacer (press/shrink fit, either), who/what type of trade would I be looking for? Reluctant to use my local garage and unsure if they could do what I want anyway.
Also, how did/do you deburr drill holes (yes, I'm a noob. Will be looking this up as we speak). Thanks again.
Don't bother with the spacer, its not required. To be honest if you are not confident with drilling and deburring a hole then do yourself a favor and let somebody modify your forks for you. I don't mean to sound condescending when I say that, its important that its done properly and safely, this is slightly more involved than a brake pad swap.
Don't bother with the spacer, its not required.
Would save me a few £'s but can you explain in a bit more detail why? YC charges a fair amount for this mod so why would so many others pay for an unnecessary service? Don't get me wrong, I'll take all advice and make my own decision so I appreciate your opinion (and YC's skills).
... its important that its done properly and safely, this is slightly more involved than a brake pad swap.
:salut: Agreed. I took note that Urban said he's an engineer and I am most certainly not. Just considering all the options but in the back of my mind I know I'll get someone else to do it. Cheers.
Would save me a few £'s but can you explain in a bit more detail why?
I'm not familiar with YCs mods, I'll leave him to explain why he does this particular modification, if at all.
The emulator sits atop of the damper rod and is held in place by the main fork spring. I can see how it may aid slightly in fitting but like I said, I've never had any trouble with just popping the emulator in and quickly checking its position as described in the RaceTech fitting instructions. Once its in you'll likely never touch it again.
The main benefit comes from simply using the emulators and a suitable fork fluid, why make it more complicated than you need to unless you have the time, skills and inclination to do so?
I also have an engineering background and spent 15 years manufacturing machine components, the latter part of which programming and setting CNC machining centers. So I can see where the OP is coming from, its a nice idea but like I said totally unnecessary.
I'm not familiar with YCs mods Lol, i thought everyone knew YC. Anyway, he's a mechanic (I think) and does the damper rod mod for members of this forum. My understanding was 2nd generation SV's need the spacer to keep it flush with the damper rod (as is suggested above). IIRC the 1st Gen SV does not need this mod (different fork internals?).
In my simple mind I thought this would prevent the damper moving around inside whilst the suspension is working. ... top of the damper rod measured 26.9mm x 6.5mm deep recess, and the emulator measures 23.9mm diameter. Anyone wish to clarify this?
Edit: You refer to Racetech emulators fitting instructions. Are you saying the instructions are similar for debrix emulators?
Lol, i thought everyone knew YC. Anyway, he's a mechanic (I think) and does the damper rod mod for members of this forum. My understanding was 2nd generation SV's need the spacer to keep it flush with the damper rod (as is suggested above). IIRC the 1st Gen SV does not need this mod (different fork internals?).
In my simple mind I thought this would prevent the damper moving around inside whilst the suspension is working. Anyone wish to clarify this?
Edit: You refer to Racetech emulators fitting instructions. Are you saying the instructions are similar for debrix emulators?
Yeah, I know who YC is and that he does the damper rod mods for people, that isnt the issue here. We are talking about a spacer between the damper rod and emulator, something that isn't technically required even on pointy SVs.
In a fully assembled fork, the emulators are kept in position just fine by the pressure of the main fork spring. This is how the product is designed to work. Now that's not to say that a design cannot be improved upon, but in this case I just don't think it's necessary.
Debrix emulators are basically an exact copy of the original RaceTech emulators, but cheaper. You would find it difficult to tell them apart.
that isnt the issue here
It is kinda the issue here. He makes the spacers and does the rod mods. So is specifically mentioned him for this reason. Thanks for the info though, could save me some money although it would be re-assuring to also hear if others have done the same.
Cheers
Ronnie
It is kinda the issue here. He makes the spacers and does the rod mods. So is specifically mentioned him for this reason. Thanks for the info though, could save me some money although it would be re-assuring to also hear if others have done the same.
Cheers
Ronnie
Entirely possible that the spacers are being confused here. The preload spacers exist at the top of the fork assembly, its entirely normal to replace the stock set with custom made replacements to a particular length. This lets you achieve a good middle setting for preload with the external preload adjuster in the middle of its adjustment range.
The 'other' spacers here are the ones I am questioning. The OP made an additional set that fits between the damper rods and the new emulators, it is these that I am suggesting are not necessary, and indeed that I do not think YC uses either when he fits them.
Entirely possible that the spacers are being confused here.
I make the spacers to be a press fit in top of rods, it's much easier to do with the rods that you're going to use there, as that alleviates the hassle of "you sent me these and they don't go in" etc.
With the pointy, the emulators won't drop straight in due to the damper rod being a little wider. Therefore spacers have to be made up to hold the emulator in place. I think I heard YC can do the spacers but don't want to go volunteering him.
This is what I read.
MJC-DEV
23-03-12, 07:26 PM
Pointies need a spacer on top of the damper rod to hold the emulator in place centrally. The bushing on the emulator is too small for the pointy damper rod hole so can fail to seal properly (outside diameter is ok). I've never heard of a pointy being modied without a spacer, but as others have made these spacers (I had them made by a friend) they would be best to give the diemensions of both parts so you can see the mismatch. Curvies have a smaller hole in top of the damper rod.
The stock top of spring spacer is left unchanged for a pointy and cut for a curvey due to presence of pre-load adjuster or not
Urbanfireblade
23-03-12, 08:31 PM
I've edited my post regarding the 'spacer' and its dimensions, its now called an adaptor :) , needed on the pointy to reduce the diameter of the top of the damping rod from the 27.0mm down to the emulators 23.9mm. If you don't fit this adaptor to reduce the diameter then the emulator will not be kept central in the damping rod and will be like a pr*ck-in-a-bucket! Probably won't seal too well either as if its over one side then some oil can get past unrestricted and it won't function right. I'll add some pics to show it all.
http://forums.sv650.org/[IMG]http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b151/urbanfireblade/1.jpg
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This is what I read.
Right, so I can understand the logic of this when wanting to return a modified set by mail order, it simplifies the refitting and saves you messing up when you get them back.
As you can see here though, this is how they are designed to fit. http://www.racetech.com/download/IP_FEGV_FIT_web.pdf
I can assure you they work just fine like this. I've done enough laps to know. If you have these 'adapters' available then go ahead, I cant see them doing any harm. But, I stand by my original statement, they aren't necessary.
You mentioned above that they don't drop straight in on a pointy, I can confirm that they do.
A question though, how do the measurements of the debrix copies compare to the RaceTech items? As I understand it the Debrix ones are not actually designed to fit the SV but the Harley, it just so happens that they are close enough to the SV sizes and possible that they may benefit from a set of custom adapters.
This is the best post I've ever seen =D>:smt023
Helps me cause I'm more a visual person. I also now see clearly why the "adapter" is needed. If only I had your skills.
Btw, that bike is far too clean and lacks sufficient bumps or scratches ;)
Thanks again!
Urbanfireblade
23-03-12, 09:16 PM
No problem Runako, hope it helps people looking to do this mod. Like i said, its just how i did it.
That last pic makes my tank look awful tho :( Camera flash highlighted all the dust on it, i was trying to show my preload adjusters wound out fully. Bike is still a very tidy example, should be as its only 6mths old!
I can assure you they work just fine like this. I've done enough laps to know. If you have these 'adapters' available then go ahead, I cant see them doing any harm. But, I stand by my original statement, they aren't necessary.
You mentioned above that they don't drop straight in on a pointy, I can confirm that they do.
A question though, how do the measurements of the debrix copies compare to the RaceTech items? As I understand it the Debrix ones are not actually designed to fit the SV but the Harkey, it just so happens that they are close enough that they happen to and benefit from a set of custom adapters.
Why do you suppose that Racetech have two different part numbers for the SV650 emulator? It's because the curvy emulator does not correctly fit the pointy forks, no matter what you may think. The emulator is designed to fit closely into the end of the damper rod so it is positively located and will seal correctly under all conditions. Feel free to bodge your own forks, but please don't suggest this is the correct way to do things as it simply isn't.
Urbanfireblade: nice job on the forks and a great set of pictures. I would suggest that you make the adapters a generous clearance fit on the emulators however, because if you ever want to adjust them then you want to be sure they will locate themselves into the end of the damper rods correctly when you drop them back into the forks.
Fantastic job urbanfireblade- well done.
All I need now is a step by step guide to a curvy emulator install -- Any takers ?
Why do you suppose that Racetech have two different part numbers for the SV650 emulator? It's because the curvy emulator does not correctly fit the pointy forks, no matter what you may think. The emulator is designed to fit closely into the end of the damper rod so it is positively located and will seal correctly under all conditions. Feel free to bodge your own forks, but please don't suggest this is the correct way to do things as it simply isn't.
Urbanfireblade: nice job on the forks and a great set of pictures. I would suggest that you make the adapters a generous clearance fit on the emulators however, because if you ever want to adjust them then you want to be sure they will locate themselves into the end of the damper rods correctly when you drop them back into the forks.
You are arguing a different point. I fail to see how fitting a part in the exact way described by the manufacturer is bodging.
If, as it appears, you are suggesting that you are using a part of different dimensions and essentially retrofitting these to a different bike by use of custom made adapters then fine. No problem with that. The original part however does not require the use of an adapter, it has a mating surface with the top of the damper rod and works just fine as designed, it isn't a bodge. Take a look at the installation instructions that I provided the link for, pay particular attention to the internal diameter differences.
Your latter point reinforces this point exactly in mentioning "they will locate themselves into the end of the damper rods correctly when you drop them back into the forks". This is exactly how they fit by design.
Urbanfireblade
24-03-12, 09:43 AM
Urbanfireblade: nice job on the forks and a great set of pictures. I would suggest that you make the adapters a generous clearance fit on the emulators however, because if you ever want to adjust them then you want to be sure they will locate themselves into the end of the damper rods correctly when you drop them back into the forks.
Yep, i see what your saying(I guess thats where my precision engineering o.c.d/analism kicked in!:wink:), i wasn't planning on removing/adjusting them again as most of the info i found on doing this job, most people set theirs to 2 1/2turns preload on the emulator spring. So i just went with the masses.
If i found they needed adjusting its just a case of remove the screw holding the damper rod in, let oil drain out and lift out the damper rod with the emulator in the top of it.
Your latter point reinforces this point exactly in mentioning "they will locate themselves into the end of the damper rods correctly when you drop them back into the forks". This is exactly how they fit by design.
My only concern with your opinion is that you are referring to RT Emulators, whereas I believe the OP has fitted Debrix. You say the Debrix are a cheaper copy of the RT's but the OP's fitting says the dimensions of the Debrix don't sit flush withe the Pointy damper. Could you clarify? Urban did post the dimensions of both Emulator and Damper rod. Is it possible that the RT's dimensions are different, hence the need for an adaptor for the Debrix?
Urbanfireblade
24-03-12, 10:47 PM
I think maybe this thread needs locking now, its getting a bit too-and-fro with opinions, i only done this to give people an idea of whats involved as i couldn't find anything myself when i looked.
I think maybe this thread needs locking now, its getting a bit too-and-fro with opinions, i only done this to give people an idea of whats involved as i couldn't find anything myself when i looked.
don't get to hung up m8, i think you done a grand job and have been very informative.
in case you haven't noticed but the org is full of what seem like argumentative burgers. there are reasons why some people give advice in threads, they mean well even if it does come across as seeming arrogant. there are a lot of people here who have a lot of knowledge to share and they have gained that knowledge by doing what they do.
you have helped others by what you have done and not done which in turn helps for future reference for those that want do do this in the future.
Fantastic job urbanfireblade- well done.
All I need now is a step by step guide to a curvy emulator install -- Any takers ?
exactly the same but you don't need the spacer ring on the top of the damper rod.
the curvy is a straight drop in item using the Debrix emulator but the pointy requires a spacer around the top of the damper rod.
one thing i will mention is that the dimensions on the inside of the spacer UFB has used could be made a little larger so if you need to alter the dampening of the valve it's easy to take them out without having to take the damper rod out.
Yes, no need to lock the thread. People will eventually come along and search this thread so all the opinions are useful.
yorkie_chris
26-03-12, 08:53 AM
You are arguing a different point. I fail to see how fitting a part in the exact way described by the manufacturer is bodging.
If, as it appears, you are suggesting that you are using a part of different dimensions and essentially retrofitting these to a different bike by use of custom made adapters then fine. No problem with that. The original part however does not require the use of an adapter, it has a mating surface with the top of the damper rod and works just fine as designed, it isn't a bodge. Take a look at the installation instructions that I provided the link for, pay particular attention to the internal diameter differences.
Your latter point reinforces this point exactly in mentioning "they will locate themselves into the end of the damper rods correctly when you drop them back into the forks". This is exactly how they fit by design.
AFAIK the racetech pointy emulators have a bigger step diameter than the ones they sell for curvy.
I am basing this on stripping 2 sets of forks which had what I believe are official racetech emulators.
You saying that the debrix emulators work fine in pointy? I looked at some when I first saw them on SVR and thought they'd rattle about too much without bringing the ID in a bit or closing up the gap somehow.
What I was worried about is emu seating offset, spring locking it there and it rubbing on stanchion.
yorkie_chris
26-03-12, 09:03 AM
Don't extend the forks too much as i think the lowers can slide off the stanchions now.
Nah be right. They're still held in by the circlip and bushings.
The stock top of spring spacer is left unchanged for a pointy and cut for a curvey due to presence of pre-load adjuster or not
Depending what springs you're using etc.
AFAIK the racetech pointy emulators have a bigger step diameter than the ones they sell for curvy.
I am basing this on stripping 2 sets of forks which had what I believe are official racetech emulators.
You saying that the debrix emulators work fine in pointy? I looked at some when I first saw them on SVR and thought they'd rattle about too much without bringing the ID in a bit or closing up the gap somehow.
What I was worried about is emu seating offset, spring locking it there and it rubbing on stanchion.
Yeah, I think what RaceTech do is simply stock the same item with variations in outer diameter and the 'stepped boss' diameter. It looks like the part number reflects this. So, as you mention there is probably an acceptable amount of sideways movement allowed for, as that gap gets too big they then recommend the next size in the range for the particular damper rod in question.
With Debrix emulators, although they are cheaper, it doesnt appear that they have as comprehensive a range of sizes to choose from. So the ones being purchased for the SV happen to share the same (or similar) outer diameter but the stepped boss diameter is designed to suit another bike's damper rod design (Harley I think). In cases where the boss isn't wide enough it probably makes sense to create the adapter discussed to close up that difference as you mention.
My only concern with your opinion is that you are referring to RT Emulators, whereas I believe the OP has fitted Debrix. You say the Debrix are a cheaper copy of the RT's but the OP's fitting says the dimensions of the Debrix don't sit flush withe the Pointy damper. Could you clarify? Urban did post the dimensions of both Emulator and Damper rod. Is it possible that the RT's dimensions are different, hence the need for an adaptor for the Debrix?
Entirely possible that the various emulators are different sizes. In the original post there was no mention of Debrix versions being used, the only mention was of some adjustment figures from RaceTech.
Cheers for this discussion and clarification. It all makes a lot more sense so decisions, decisions ...
Just checked in the RaceTech catalogue. The part number recommended for the pointy is FEGV 4101. For the curvy its 3801. The first two numbers refer to the outer diameter of the emulator, suggesting that they are designed for different diameter fork damper rod tops.
Urbanfireblade
26-03-12, 07:30 PM
They were Debrix ones, does anybody buy Racetech ones now Debrix do them for 1/4 of the price?
I'll edit my original post to say Debrix.
They were Debrix ones, does anybody buy Racetech ones now Debrix do them for 1/4 of the price?
I'll edit my original post to say Debrix.
To be honest I feel a little uneasy about buying what is in effect a copy, made in China I think. Each to their own I guess. I have no idea if RaceTech actually patented the design, maybe they didn't and that's their tough luck. However, I assume RaceTech did the original development work to create these emulators.
I suppose this is no different to buying a full price DVD in the store, or using a copy from the local market. Totally depends where you stand on the issue.
I've used RaceTech emulators for years on SV, FZR400s and vintage MZ race bikes. I've found them good quality, had good customer service and valuable suspension tuning advice over the phone when I've needed it.
@urbanfireblade
Thanks for the pics very helpful.
Did the emulators make much of a difference?
Also, just a thought on the debate over the adapter rings that you made. Given that these emulators are basically the same with different sized ODs and stepped boss ODs, perhaps another slightly simpler approach would be to buy emulators with a bigger diameter step and turn them down on a lathe to suit the dampers they are being fitted to? Would save you needing to make a separate adapter.
I don't think the Debrix comes in a different size. Tbh, I'd rather spend the money on a GSXR swap than RT emulators. The Debrix is just cheap enough to give it a shot. No real loss if it doesn't work. If it does then by the time I'm done with them I'll be done with the SV. The spacer, apart from cost, isn't a big deal. It either works or it doesn't. The comments on this forum says it does so I'll give it a shot with the spacer.
go for it. The difference between standard damper rod forks and those modified with emulators is enormous, well worth doing.
Urbanfireblade
26-03-12, 09:35 PM
Geese and Runako, i gotta say they've made a noticeable difference, enough to impress, less 'bounce' at the front in normal/commuter riding and seems like less pogo dive when braking hard initially. I'm still running standard front springs so being progressive they'll still be soft on their initial travel, but its well worth doing, hard to say how much is the emulator and how much is the thicker oil, but for about £50 all in its definetly worthwhile doing. Hardest part was getting the bike front end up in the air. I've now made an ABBA-style stand for upcoming jobs! Locating pins fully adjustable just like the real thing! Haha. Just needs painting.
I had a chance to ride my Sv pretty hard since doing the forks and i can't be more impressed for how easy it is to do. It now shows up how undamped the rear is, whereas before i didn't notice as it matched the front. I flew up **** Hill recently. Bike was leaned right over, unfazed, no twitching, wallowing, nothing, thats matching my Fireblade on that bend. Proved to me how much more confident i'd become to push the bikes limit without actually realising till i thought about it after. Its still only a budget motorbike, but one that small improvements can make a big difference.
Regarding the quality of the Debrix ones, search any threads mentioning them and they will say how good they are. I'm a precision engineer by trade, and an anal one at that :D, i don't know how they make them for that price, the machining of the component was perfect, chamfered edges, no burrs, material imperfections or chatter from the cutter when machining, annodising was spot on. Just really impressive. And they work fine.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b151/urbanfireblade/aastand30.jpg
Man, you're getting me all excited now, specially after I went for a kick ass ride today.
Urbanfireblade
26-03-12, 10:33 PM
Next for me will be some k-tech linear springs(when I can justify the 100-odd quid!) and a better rear shock(cheap on eBay). Tho I'm reluctant to go hacking off the plastic tool kit holder to fit a shock from a gsxr etc so I'm gonna see what else may fit from other bikes. Maybe ill stumble on a gem!
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