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View Full Version : Excessive front brake lever travel.


Amadeus
26-03-12, 06:26 PM
My front brake level travels more than I'd like, even when the adjuster dial is set to 6.
Newish brake pads so it's not that they're worn. What are the options to change this? I'm not confident with many maintenance tasks, esp those involving generally-considered-critial parts such as the brakes, so if it's vaguely risky I guess I'll take it to my dealer.

thanks

MJC-DEV
26-03-12, 06:43 PM
If the brakes lines are a few years old then fitting braided lines hardens ups the brake feel with reduced lever travel.
Assuming it's not 'spongy' due to trapped air of course.

rictus01
26-03-12, 06:46 PM
or it could be something as simple as they need bleeding, perhaps if you had your loction in your profile some local Orger might help you out :smt102

Amadeus
26-03-12, 08:30 PM
If the brakes lines are a few years old then fitting braided lines hardens ups the brake feel with reduced lever travel.
Assuming it's not 'spongy' due to trapped air of course.

I'm pretty sure it's not trapped air (it doesn't feel spongy). I assume that the point of braided hoses is that a rubber hose would expand with the pressure of the brake fluid but the braided hoses would prevent this from happening?
I didn't think that it would change the level travel that much.
Thanks for the recommendation.

Amadeus
26-03-12, 08:37 PM
or it could be something as simple as they need bleeding, perhaps if you had your loction in your profile some local Orger might help you out :smt102

Thanks Rictus.
I don't *think* it's a bleeding issue, but I've put my location in my profile. Thing is, I feel rather guilty about asking someone for help - not really sure why someone would want to give up their time - I'd want to give them something for their time.
And besides, I get all shy and my Tourettes comes out... :D

garynortheast
26-03-12, 09:08 PM
You may need to clean the calipers and take a look at the seals. The slots in which the dust seals sit can become oxidised. This forces the dust seals out and they "grab" the pistons which prevents the pistons from gradually moving out over time to compensate for pad wear. The lever travel happens because the pistons then have a long way to move before coming into contact with the disc. As soon as you let the lever go the seals act a bit like a diaphragm and pull the pistons all the way back into the caliper again.

Amadeus
26-03-12, 09:36 PM
Thanks Gary - that sounds good info. Would this normally be looked at by a dealer when replacing the pads (which was done last year and I've not ridden much since then for various reasons)?

Rgds

rictus01
26-03-12, 10:31 PM
Thanks Rictus.
I don't *think* it's a bleeding issue, but I've put my location in my profile. Thing is, I feel rather guilty about asking someone for help - not really sure why someone would want to give up their time - I'd want to give them something for their time.
And besides, I get all shy and my Tourettes comes out... :D

it quiet simply really what could take a novice hour to sort out by themselves or mean a dealer visit, can with a little help be an easy fix or at least identify what needs doing, all goes to save you money.

I've been teaching bike mechanics & maintenance for over 30 years and never once asked for payment, normally my terms are, once you've learnt how to do something properly you pass that knowledge on to some other needy person.


Cheers Mark.

Bibio
26-03-12, 10:33 PM
Thanks Gary - that sounds good info. Would this normally be looked at by a dealer when replacing the pads (which was done last year and I've not ridden much since then for various reasons)?

Rgds

dealers wont strip brakes unless asked to, they will just simply fit pads.

Bibio
26-03-12, 10:35 PM
once you've learnt how to do something properly you pass that knowledge on to some other needy person.


:smt023

but some people just don't learn and still make a mess of things.

rictus01
26-03-12, 10:38 PM
:smt023

but some people just don't learn and still make a mess of things.

not the ones I teach....:)

garynortheast
27-03-12, 07:03 AM
Thanks Gary - that sounds good info. Would this normally be looked at by a dealer when replacing the pads (which was done last year and I've not ridden much since then for various reasons)?

Rgds

My advice would be to arm yourself with a manual and the relevant tools, and then have a go for yourself. As Bibio says, the dealer won't clean the calipers when replacing the pads, and unless they are particularly conscientious, may not be that thorough at cleaning out the oxidisation from the seal seats even when replacing the seals.

A set of angled picks and scrapers like these (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/picks-set-scrapers-aircraft-fuel-tank-seal-repair-tools-workshop-mech-benchwork-/120879069456?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1c24f43910) are useful for cleaning the recesses, just be gentle with them though. A small rotary disc shaped brass brush is handy for finishing the job.

MJC-DEV
27-03-12, 07:09 AM
You haven't said how old the bike is. If it's more than 4 years old and on the original hoses then it would be worth while putting braided hoes on as it firms up the feel & reduces travel due to the expanding old rubber.
Again, assuming no other causes or leaking or old brake fluid

monkey
27-03-12, 08:24 AM
A set of angled picks and scrapers like these (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/picks-set-scrapers-aircraft-fuel-tank-seal-repair-tools-workshop-mech-benchwork-/120879069456?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1c24f43910) are useful for cleaning the recesses, just be gentle with them though. A small rotary disc shaped brass brush is handy for finishing the job.

Just to reiterate if metal tools of any sort are going to be used on brake caliper seal recesses to use massive care or use plastic or wood so the sealing surfaces aren't damaged.

I know you probably don't know what we're on about at this point but you will. Do a search for brake caliper service and you should get plenty of results.

If I were to have my first go at brakes again I'd do the rear first to get acquainted with it all, and then if it were to go pear shaped I could still get it to a dealer/another organ ;)

Amadeus
27-03-12, 09:03 AM
Thanks for all the advice guys.
I'll to some more searching as suggested and see what I make of that. And certainly the back brake seems like a good place to start. :study:

I think I worry because if I do really mess it up and I have to phone a dealer, I'll know they're thinking "what a muppet"... :-) Still, someone once said "experience is the number of mistakes you've made". :-)

Moving house today so won't get much chance to look at this for a little time(my wife is doing a half marathon on Sunday - I thought the ideal time to have some time to take a look but it seems she wants (moral) support. :-)

Bluefish
27-03-12, 07:17 PM
Just to reiterate if metal tools of any sort are going to be used on brake caliper seal recesses to use massive care or use plastic or wood so the sealing surfaces aren't damaged.

I know you probably don't know what we're on about at this point but you will. Do a search for brake caliper service and you should get plenty of results.

If I were to have my first go at brakes again I'd do the rear first to get acquainted with it all, and then if it were to go pear shaped I could still get it to a dealer/another organ ;)
That may be simple, but it's Tip top advice, must remember for when reqd.

Red Herring
27-03-12, 09:03 PM
Putting the lever on 6 won't affect the travel, it just means it starts and finishes further from the bar, (it's a span adjuster), but I guess if the travel is so bad it's coming back to the bar it does give you a chance!

More importantly does the front brake "pump up" ie: if you operate it a few times really quickly when stationery does the travel get less? If so is it only after you have ridden a few yards that the excess travel comes back? Reason I ask is that excess travel may be a sign of something wrong with the calipers/cylinder/hoses but it could also be warped discs which as the wheel turns help push the pads (and therefore the pistons) back into the calipers, or even something like play in the front wheel bearings which can do the same thing.

Stripping calipers isn't a particularly hard job, but it's not the best job to start your motorcycle mechanics course on! You will either need a few special tools or a few special techniques to do it properly as well, and it can be expensive if you get it wrong.

Amadeus
03-04-12, 06:58 PM
Thanks for all the advice guys. Sorry for the delay in responding - just moved house and lost my internet connection for a week.

rgds