Removing damper rod bolt?

[85jas]

Attempting the emulator installation at the moment and can't get the blasted damping rods out! What has failed so far:

-Jamming a broom handle up against the rod whilst turning the bolt
-Cutting down a bit of 1"x1" to a smaller point and jamming that in, then turning the bolt
-Leaving the internals in, compressing it as much as poss and turning the bolt.

In all cases the rod just spins inside the fork :smt085 Am I going to have to try and source whatever genuine tool Mr Suzuki uses to get this fecker out?

Ta :)

[MJC-DEV]

The quickest way is to leave the spring in and cap on (secures damper rod) and use a powered impact driver (air or lectric) and it will out in seconds.

[85jas]

Righty ho - off to buy an impact driver then! Thanks MJC :)

[flymo]

or, far cheaper. get yourself a length of 15 mm copper water pipe and two straight couplings with hex heads on them. The hex fits perfectly into the top of the damper rod, the other end can be turned with a spanner.

Should cost you less than a fiver.

[Geese]

I had to use the air rattle gun on mine.

[85jas]

Fortunately my local bike shop came to the rescue and used the air gun to get them out :)

Flymo, how does this work? It seemed that anything I jammed in the damper didn't prevent it from spinning... I want a solution for next time, after I've threadlocked everything up again :O

edit: home solution!!

[MJC-DEV]

I don't want to start an unwanted debate but something like the CEW1000 will make a lot of jobs easier and is a worthwhile investment. I wouldn't have been able to change brake discs without one for example or front sprocket (don't have 10ft breaker bar or drain pipe)

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cew1000-electric-impact-wrench

[Sid Squid]

Am I going to have to try and source whatever genuine tool Mr Suzuki uses to get this fecker out?
Just as a footnote to this, the genuine Suzuki damper tool for the SV650 is a rod with a pointed end. There is a rod with a 'tee' bar one end onto which various adaptors fit, (part number 09940-34520), the tool for the SV650 looks a bit like a countersink tool but with a narrower taper, (part number 09940-34531:

http://s295.photobucket.com/albums/mm140/SidSquid_photos/http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm140/SidSquid_photos/Forktool.jpg

In short it works exactly the same as a broom pole with a taper whittled on the end.

[hongman]

Just done mine today! :D

Didnt have too much trouble with the Damper Rod bolts actually. Cracked them loose with all the gubbins in the forks.

The hardest bit about this installation was getting the damn caps back on. I sweated a bit on those!

Also managed to snap a drill bit. Took me about 4 hrs inc going to shops to buy a new drill bit, and 1/2 an hour trying to find bricks to prop the front up with :D

Deburred with some metal needles files and a dremel. Not as clean as I'd like but best I can do without a clamp and pillar drill!

Also didnt fill up top hole, as YC said that was a personal preference. I dont know what it does and I have no way of blocking it up, so open it is.

The result - well I dont know yet because if I dont eat I'm going to pass out, will see if I get a chance to have a blast later.

[muzikill]

It bothers me the caps are aluminium and the thread pitch is so tight on them. Talkabout worrying incase you crossthread them.

[hongman]

Yep!

Now its done its not coming back off til fork oil needs renewing :D

[Sid Squid]

It bothers me the caps are aluminium and the thread pitch is so tight on them.
They're like that because of their load.

[hongman]

They're like that because of their load.

Can you elaborate on that please?

I would have thought due to the high pressure they would have more "beefier" threads.

[85jas]

Just as a footnote to this, the genuine Suzuki damper tool for the SV650 is a rod with a pointed end.

In short it works exactly the same as a broom pole with a taper whittled on the end.

That's hilarious, I'd assumed it'd have bits which located into the damping holes or something. Pretty much what I'd made up myself, though it didn't work... Windy gun had it in seconds though :)

Just done mine today! :D

Me too, you'll like it :thumbsup: Didn't snap a drill bit but managed to shear a bottom yoke bolt AND the clip on bolt - half-inched the bolts out of my grab rail to replace them so anyone on the back has no option now but to get cosy :mrgreen::p

I took loads of pictures, probably not useful but a couple are pretty funny - Will write it up when I get the chance :)

[hongman]

Did you take the forks out then? I left mine in.

I was going to do a writeup but the other guide on here is pretty spot on, no point re-writing the same thing.

[flymo]

whenever I've fitted emulators, changed springs or replaced fluid, I've always removed the forks from the bike to make the job easier. Only exception is for emergency repairs in the race paddock.

Removal makes the job much easier, lets you properly strip and clean all components and allows you to stand the forks vertically for fluid level setting etc. For the sake of 10 mins extra time, I would always remove them.

[hongman]

What takes you 10 mins takes me an hour :D

[flymo]

What takes you 10 mins takes me an hour :D

Technically an hour;

Paddock stand up the front, remove brake calipers, wheel and mudguard. - 5 mins

Tea, biscuits, sandwich, chill in sun - 50 mins

Undo handlebars and whip the forks out (its only 12 bolts!) - 5 mins

[85jas]

lol flymo...

Yup had my forks out too... Then put 'em in upside down after draining the oil just to crack the damping rod bolt hehe :) maybe I'll just put up some photos of some key / funny bits, might help someone / keep them sane :bounce: