View Full Version : Pointy swingarm side play sorted.
spent the day up to my armpits in grease and grinders.
but i'm happy to say that i have gotten rid of the nasty play in the swingarm. it took me all day (1pm-8pm) but its sweet as a nut zero play and smooth as.
just to see if it gets rid of that bleedin headshake.
:smt040
DarrenSV650S
01-04-12, 07:27 PM
Go on.......
shims?
Mine gives me so much more confidence in it since I fixed it
no shims. i ground down one of the races so there was around .75mm gap when out of the frame and once tightened its sweeeeeet smooth and no play anywhere.
how do you find the headshake now Daz?
DarrenSV650S
01-04-12, 07:35 PM
Haven't had any since I did it. It just feels solid :)
i shall see how mine is but its pretty much set up the same as yours so i'm pretty confident.
maviczap
01-04-12, 07:59 PM
just to see if it gets rid of that bleedin headshake.
:smt040
Buy a Curvy frame :mrgreen: :p :takeabow: :cheers:
Dave20046
01-04-12, 08:12 PM
wahey, it's so satisfying trying to shake it side to side and it being rock solid.
just had the bike out for a quick blast and what a difference. strangely the front feels more planted and it keeps a better line.
on a straight road it feels way better than before, i used to get a vague feeling but that's now gone and its keeping its self straight as a die.
cornering is a pleasure and i can now feel both tyres doing their stuff with no hint of head shake or wallowing. the bike was good before but this has stepped it up a notch or two :-)
update time:
was out on Sunday 08/04/2012. bike performed flawlessly giving it a good old thrashing.
noted changes were.. so much easier to keep lines, no more head shake mid corner. i'm not fighting with the bars like i was before getting on the throttle and is surprisingly smoother. i rode a few bends that i know would have given the bike some head shake before the adjustment but there was nothing there now, it's like i have fitted a steering damper.
muzikill
09-04-12, 05:36 PM
Nice one. ive still got my front wheel bearing to do (hint hint).
maviczap
09-04-12, 07:09 PM
update time:
was out on Sunday 08/04/2012. bike performed flawlessly giving it a good old thrashing.
noted changes were.. so much easier to keep lines, no more head shake mid corner. i'm not fighting with the bars like i was before getting on the throttle and is surprisingly smoother. i rode a few bends that i know would have given the bike some head shake before the adjustment but there was nothing there now, it's like i have fitted a steering damper.
Almost as good as a curvy then :D
Nice one. ive still got my front wheel bearing to do (hint hint).
if i have time next sunday i might just come and do them.
Almost as good as a curvy then :D
no its better as curvy's give you piles :smt042
muzikill
09-04-12, 09:29 PM
if i have time next sunday i might just come and do them.
That would be cool bro. I was gonna have to get myself a brass drift and read up on what side to remove first. I know you have to do it in a certain sequence.
you don't use a brass drift on wheel bearings. you drift them in with a suitable sized socket that covers the outer race of the bearing but allows it to go into the recess. if you have say a 30mm outer race then a socket outer size of 29mm would be ideal. you then tap the top of the socket with a hammer at different places to make sure that the bearing goes in straight. the method above is a diy special but to do it properly you need a bearing press which is different sized spacers with a threaded rod and nuts. yes i have one of these :-) i also have a proper blind bearing removal tool with slide hammer to get the bearings out.
from what i remember the sequence is left bearing first and all the way home then the right bearing till just hitting the spacer with the inner race.
punyXpress
09-04-12, 09:51 PM
no its better as curvy's give you piles :smt042
But we can cure those!
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If all else fails, use our EXOCET Suppositories
muzikill
09-04-12, 09:53 PM
from what i remember the sequence is left bearing first and all the way home then the right bearing till just hitting the spacer with the inner race.
.... And removal would be the opposite? ...... I meant a brass drift only to remove the old ones.
you would be pizzing in the wind using a brass drift to take bearings out brass is far toooo soft. use and old long slotted screwdriver instead or cut the head off an old long pozi screwdriver.
CodeJACK
11-04-12, 10:23 PM
hmmm, i wonder could this be the cause of the wobble on my SV. Must make some time to take a look.
When doing any speed if I shake the bars even a little bit this then causes the tail to shake quite badly. almost like a reverse tank slapper only without the inevitable binning of the bike :p
you could have burgerd bearings. if you can feel the rear end loose then i would suspect so.
i found the opposite with the play, it would shake it's head when i was giving it some beans on rough roads but the biggest was mid corner if i hit some ripples, this would cause the bike to go into a lovely oscillated wobble till i could get on the gas.
i still get some head shake coming of crests but it settles very quickly unlike before where i would have to fight with the bars.
GIZZY66
12-04-12, 05:57 PM
How much movement is too much ?
How much movement is too much ?
there is always a little play from the factory. if you can get the rear wheel off the ground on an abba stand it should go 'click click' as you push it from side to side, its about 3mm in total.
when i took the swingarm off mine and had a play with the bearings and sleeves there was a good 2-3mm of side to side play as i slid the sleeves, my bearings were like new and surprisingly quite a bit of grease in there. i ground down one of the races so there was around .75-1mm of side to side play left and once installed on the bike it came to zero play and still moved up and down like silk.
muzikill
15-04-12, 07:15 PM
I checked mine today and its got the 'factory play' but with alignment of the wheels spot on I dont notice it doing anything untoward.
What I did check today was the front wheel bearings. They seem fine. I noticed the middle spacer has a bit of movement not between either bearing but inside the wheel. like the diameter of the spacer is smaller than inside diameter of the tube between the bearings. Could this be the source of the grind and the sv clunk. Im sure this is,normal as the spacer play I used to help you angle the drift to remove the bearings. I noticed the grease coming out is very dark and im wondering if the spacer and bearings have dirty grease. Im thinking the only way to clean it out is to overhaul.
Im scared to start soaking the inside with wd40 to try and drain the dirty grease out because theres not much room in the spaces to repack it.
yes the spacer flops about inside till the spindle goes in then it gets centralised and clamped to the inner race faces so once tight it cant move. if there is no play in the bearings and not 'rough' then leave them.
muzikill
19-04-12, 06:01 PM
Heres how my swingarm spacer looks btw...... yes i know it's very clean in there :)
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5325/6947922150_0ea9a40a49_z.jpg
that's 1 side but what's the other like?
Dave20046
19-04-12, 07:05 PM
Heres how my swingarm spacer looks btw...... yes i know it's very clean in there :)
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5325/6947922150_0ea9a40a49_z.jpg
I could fit a credit card down mine (both sides IIRC)
(lack of feeler guages)
daffyduck1962
29-04-12, 05:36 PM
there is always a little play from the factory. if you can get the rear wheel off the ground on an abba stand it should go 'click click' as you push it from side to side, its about 3mm in total.
when i took the swingarm off mine and had a play with the bearings and sleeves there was a good 2-3mm of side to side play as i slid the sleeves, my bearings were like new and surprisingly quite a bit of grease in there. i ground down one of the races so there was around .75-1mm of side to side play left and once installed on the bike it came to zero play and still moved up and down like silk.
Having read your article in full, and stupidly forgetting to ask the wise before starting on my wife's bike, I find myself confused.
If you refer to my earlier thread posted today, I thought her bike had worn bearings, and went ahead and purchased replacements.
Since starting this job I have since discovered that it is an absolute pig to remove the exhaust.
I'm guessing to do what you did, I must still get the exhaust off, but I don't quite fully understand what you mean when you say you removed material to get rid of the sideways movement.
Can you help the stupid amongst us (e.g Me) with more info?
And on a slightly seperate note, can the rear shock be rebuilt, or is it a straight swap job?
Ta very much in advance :smt040
P.S. yes it is bloody clean on the inside, just going off to get my sunglasses so I can have a proper look!
muzikill
29-04-12, 08:04 PM
that's 1 side but what's the other like?
Sorry mate i missed this thread and your post..........
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8148/6979539078_a34be57892_z.jpg
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