Flat battery.

[craig dow]

had my 1999 sv650s on charge for three days . trickle charge , used it yesterday for work yesterday 60 miles , and today for 30 miles , as i got to work it cut out and no power in battery at all , did have my lights on into work , could it be the battery or some thing eles dont want to go and get a new battery if its not that
thanks very much for any help

How many threads needed for the same problem? Three threads merged and moved to SV Talk.

[NTECUK]

You need to,re charge itHas it got fluiid or gel type battery?
.Dont over charge use a bike specific one .Then get the Multi meter out and check the Voltage at the battery posts.
Poss batter died over its lay off,or bad conection.
Even the dreaded Reg issue

[craig dow]

its a gel battery , and it was on an oxford bike charger , thanks called rac as need to get home
thanks

[NTECUK]

Your only option is bump start if your stranded then.
And you still need enough power to run the bike ignition system.
Hope your home soon and find the problem .

[craig dow]

had rac out said hes sure its the battery so got new one to get us home then will put meter on it and hope its getting a charge fingers crossed thanks for your help

[MJC-DEV]

If the battery has been unused and not charged for a couple of months (especially if it is old) then it will be knackered and won't hold charge (assuming your Reg/Rectifier unit is working properly of course)

[craig dow]

hi thanks for your help if it is the reg/rectifier any idea which on to get and the best place as heard the cheap ones can be nasty and not good
thanks again

[timwilky]

Before buying a R/R, invest in a multimeter and run basic diagnostics on the charging system.

Do a search for regulator and you should get a few thousand posts that tell you how to test it.

[Geodude]

Run through this if you got a meter http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf easy to follow

[craig dow]

hi sorry for this but needing help again , i have a 1999 sv650s and it packed up on way to work today 30 miles to work battery died called out rac and he said it was the battery fxxxk so got new one and rode bike home with all lights off to help charge it , put on multie meter when got home this is the readings i got , with bike ticking over at 1500rpm it was reading 12.95 with lights of going up to 13.15 put lights on and it droped at 2500rpm it read 12.45 and at 5000rpm it was 12.43 to 12.45 can any one help me with this readings as dont want to get stuck on way to work again , it is light now so can use it with lights off but would prefer to have them on please help me again thanks very very much ,

[mep]

Read the thread http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=177699
and download this http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=177699

[craig dow]

may be stupid i know but im new to bikeing but can you tell me where i find the Reg/Rectifier unit as going to strip bike tomorrow and been reading a lot regarding this and also found out that it could be a break in wire some where as im getting a back fireing as well so will checke all wireing as well be reading a great thread regarding this as same problem but want to check r/r first thanks again

[maviczap]

On the curvy its underneath the right hand side seat unit fairing, same on the pointy I think

Just under the rear brake reservoir.

Its a bit of a faff to get to

[Sid Squid]

On a Pointy it's under the airbox on the right.

But it could be anywhere as I don't know which bike you've got.

[craig dow]

sorrry its a 1999 sv650s curvey so take it its under the seat right hand side
thanks again for your help

[craig dow]

been haveing a problem with my sv650s 1999 dead battery , put a new one on and did a test reading and not very good , bike is back fireing two , found out could be a wireing problem , carnt find a fault looking , so if i take a pice of wire and connect it to the r/r earth and connect the other end to the - on battery will that then let me know if its the earth problem or not , thanks again :confused:

[Geodude]

Dont know if you have but read through this as i had same hastle http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=164281 HTH

[rictus01]

theoretically yes it will, but have you checked the normal wiring wear points yet or the reg/rec output ?

[craig dow]

away to do the test on reg 1to 2 2 to 3 and so with yellow wires did rev check at battery and not a good reading but with it back fireing thought it could be an earth problem , dont loads of reading on here regarding reg/rec and not ruleing that out but dont think that would cause bike to back fire if that has packed up
thanks for your help

[Geodude]

Try and keep your questions in one thread as it gets overlooked when you start a new one for the same thing with different titles. Did you read through this http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=164281 that i posted on your other thread? And as rictus said have you checked the loom for chaffing around the left hand seat bolt area?

[craig dow]

sorry for this again , i have checked the wireing and carnt find a fault and yes i have read your post , thats where i got the idea from to do wireing , thanks again for your help

[Geodude]

Mine did get better after i ran a wire from the rr neg to the battery neg so just do a test with the wire temporarily in place and do voltage tests to see if it makes a difference.

[Geodude]

Dont apologise for asking for help bud we all do it, questions = answers, answers = knowledge and knowledge means you can pass it on. Hope you get it figured out :)


If you have a bit of time for a read then this epic thread by nadine is worth a read through sometime http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=103259

[rictus01]

the normal wear points on the curvy SV are behind the sidepanels (bolts tend to dig into the loom), around the headstock (you need to lift it away and look inside) and around the subframe under the lefthand pod (once again it can look fine but lift it away from the frame and check the inside to make sure there are no bare wires).

any of these can cause weird problems including back firing, you may have more than one issue here, but the above are known points where the wiring fails.

Cheers Mark.

[mep]

My 99 Curvy has had the reg/rec wired to the battery neg terminal by a previous owner. Seems to be a common solution to electrical problems.

[craig dow]

iv striped my bike and checked all the wires and could not find a fault at all , i did the three yellow wires 1-2 2-3 1-3 and got one all the time , i now went and wired up the r/r/ direct to the battery and this is the readings im getting ticking over nothing on im getting 13.85 with 5000rpm im getting 14.30 with lights on 5000rpm im getting 12.31 fullbeam and with normal beam im getting 12.30 can you tell me if this is ok thanks very much yet again ps its a 1999 sv650s curv with bran new battery battery off bike readin 12.75

[craig dow]

sorry ment to say the spark plug under the tank was real hot tryed to get it out to check it and broke the socket spanner that came with the bike and just could not undo it , might this be the problem as i have not changed it as just got the bike will order a new socket spanner and try again to get it out

[craig dow]

hi can any one help me from here thanks again

[Geodude]

Hmm might leave this with the big lads, Sid, Yc, rictus etc as they're much more knowledgeable, so i dont lead you in the wrong direction. I will check out a few things and if i can offer any more help i most definitely will :)

[craig dow]

thanks for that geodude

[Bibio]

let the bike get cold then take plug out. don't clean plugs just buy new ones.

[Geodude]

When you said you tested the three yellow wires did you do ac output test just to rule it out? Ive just re-quoted below to save my typing finger ;) and a free bump to the top :)

For a start clean all connectors and run test again
Then test in yellow wires coming up from alternator that you have all 3 phases making good voltage (AC volts this time), it's possible they are breaking down under load.

Ok will do that. Testing the yellow wires, is that just a matter of sticking the probes from the multimeter into the connector from the alternator? What setting on meter should i use?

Yes into that connector, there are 3 pins, call them 1 2 and 3, does not matter which is which... put probe from 1-2 then 2-3 then 3-1... those are your 3 phases, they should all have 70V or so and be similar when revved. If any drop to zero when revved or have no voltage at all then stator is fried.

Use volts AC setting

Ok cheers yc. Just another question to help make me look even more stupid is this V~ the ac setting?

Yes

[craig dow]

yes but never seemed to get any readings at all and it started to rain so gave up , will try again at weekend , but thought i had a better reading on battery when i wired r/r direct
thanks again

[timwilky]

Craig

The clues are in the name of a regulator/rectifier. It has two jobs, to regulate the incoming voltage. and to rectify an AC current to DC in order to be suitable to charge a battery etc.

Your alternator puts out alternating current at about 70v on 3 phases. If you cannot measure any voltage on these phases then it points to your alternator being faulty. Which is very unlikely, but not unheard of.

I hate to have to repeat what others have said. Put your meter on an AC V scale capable of dealing with 70V. disconnect the 3 yellow wires from the R/R and measure between each of these 3 yellow wires from your alternator and post the result. Without it nobody can make a diagnosis.

[craig dow]

hi did the three wires test and just not getting a reading at all , so think its def the r/r any one recommend one and where to get one from , i dont want todo any soldering so a stright swap one would be great
thanks

[Geodude]

If you getting no ac from the stator then its fried (rare though) not the rr! Out just now but will log on when home.

[embee]

You need to get to the bottom of the measurement on the 3 yellows from the alternator first. Getting no reading at all is the wrong answer! ;)

Try again until you do get a voltage reading on AC Volts.
No point going at the reg-rec until this fundamental bit is sorted.

[Geodude]

+1 on what tim w and embee say as you need to know what is coming out of the alternator before you can say for sure its the rr and if you sure you get no ac volts at all then its that and not the rr.

Before you start pulling wires and chucking things (its what i do ;) ) are you sure your meters working right and did you do the alternator test at 5000 rpm and if its doing its job right you should see around 75 volts.

[Geodude]

Just thought id check that you doing the alternator test on the alternator wire side with the rr disconnected?

[craig dow]

right there is a red and black wire comeing from rr and three yellow wires iv unpluged the three yellow wires from the connector and put my metter on them the side dirrect from the rr and im reving bike to 5000rpm and useing the probes on the terminal not getting any thing , will do it again tomorrow as next door have young kids and they will be in there beds now so carnt rev bike up
thanks again if i dont get any thing i think i will have to take it to the bike shop , dont know if this matters but im getting a back fireing when i rev bike up too
thanks again

[craig dow]

put tester on feed to rr and getting reading of 12.35 same as what im getting from battery i did not start bike as i said above will see what i get tomorrow night

[Geodude]

If you're checking right and you're getting no ac volts from the alternator then it sounds like its knackered or the wiring from it is? You got any sv orger's (ecosse lads) local or near you that can have a look?

[embee]

... iv unpluged the three yellow wires from the connector and put my metter on them the side dirrect from the rr and im reving bike to 5000rpm and useing the probes on the terminal not getting any thing ,....

To check the output from the alternator you need to put the meter on the wires coming from the alternator at the engine end, not the wires going to the reg-rec. You won't get anything on the yellow wires going to the reg-rec when it's disconnected because..........it's disconnected from the alternator.

[Geodude]

Im sure he has been checking from the alternator as thats whats been asked to do a few times now ;)




Edit: Doh! embee well spotted see post 52 ;)

[craig dow]

hi no dont think so been trying to find some one . willing to pay them but just carnt get any one dont know any one as new to bikes

[Geodude]

Ask in the ecosse section if anyone near you might give it a look over before you start spending garage money.

[craig dow]

i have thanks

[Geodude]

Nice one got my didgits crossed for a simple fix mate :)

[Sid Squid]

The regulator is commonly the fault when an SV battery won't charge - but it isn't the only thing that can go wrong. The fault needs to be identified correctly before spending money. The first check is of the alternator, read this carefully:

Set your meter on an AC setting of about 100 volts, check for voltage on the three wires on the LOOM side of the connection with the regulator-rectifier.

NOT the wires going to the regulator-rectifier, the wires on the other side of the connector.

That checks the alternator output, there are three yellow wires, name them 'A' 'B' and 'C', check the voltage between 'A' and 'B', between 'B' and 'C', and between 'A' and 'C'.
At 5000rpm there should be about 70V AC, but the important thing is that the three readings are the same. If they are then the alternator is OK.

If they aren't the same then put your meter on a resistance scale, about 100 ohms. Between each pair there should be about 0.5 ohms, again the important thing is that the readings should all be similar. Then check between each wire and a good, clean engine earth, there should be no continuity - no reading at all. If there a much lower or higher reading at any test, then carefully check the wiring from that plug all the way to the alternator very carefully. If the wiring is OK then the alternator is duff.

Do those tests and post them here. If the alternator checks out OK then there's other things to be checked before deciding what the fault is.

[dyzio]

hi sorry for this but needing help again , i have a 1999 sv650s and it packed up on way to work today 30 miles to work battery died called out rac and he said it was the battery fxxxk so got new one and rode bike home with all lights off to help charge it , put on multie meter when got home this is the readings i got , with bike ticking over at 1500rpm it was reading 12.95 with lights of going up to 13.15 put lights on and it droped at 2500rpm it read 12.45 and at 5000rpm it was 12.43 to 12.45 can any one help me with this readings as dont want to get stuck on way to work again , it is light now so can use it with lights off but would prefer to have them on please help me again thanks very very much ,

Question, since he is getting these numbers on the battery when running, wouldn't this suggest that the charging cct is ok?

[Sid Squid]

Question, since he is getting these numbers on the battery when running, wouldn't this suggest that the charging cct is ok?
No. 12½ ish isn't a very good voltage, particularly at 5000rpm.

Considering the results given I strongly suspect the regulator is the fault, but the other checks should be done to be certain.

[craig dow]

thanks squid i think iv been checking the wroung three yellow wires , iv been checking the three comeing out of the r/r not the ones on the loom , feel stupid now , but im new to this and this is my first bike , i will check the other three yellow wires tonight , and i will put up the results assoon as i get them
thanks again for all your help

[Geodude]

Doh! Not to worry fella we have all got to learn :)

[Sid Squid]

We all start somewhere - don't feel bad about.

[Quiff Wichard]

Sid is so helpful
Can't wait til I am old and have a wealth of knowledge too ...

[craig dow]

ha ha , he has been a life saver and a bike saver too me , hope when i get a reading he can help me more , thanks again sid

[embee]

Had a feeling that might have been the case, most likely reason for no reading at all. Hey, no problems, now you know! ;)

Everyone on here (mostly) will try their best to help, just make sure to read the advice carefully, and feel free to ask questions, that's the way we all learn! Good luck with it. :D

[craig dow]

right at last did test im getting 74 ac at 5000 revs its going up to 78 now and again as baike is back fireing now and again found that problem i think did ohms test and getting 0.5 and 0.7 on all wires so go on you great people what is it
thanks again for all your help yet again

[craig dow]

fixed the back fireing now seems to tick over sweet air getting into exhast

[craig dow]

is it the r/r

[embee]

Since we've more or less established the alternator itself is OK, and assuming the wiring is complete and the connectors and fuses etc are sound, and you're still getting less than something like 14V when it's revved up, then very likely yes.

[craig dow]

thanks very very much for all your help , will go and get a regulator now and hope thats it
but just carnt thank you all enough
hope you all take care , craig