View Full Version : Pointy higher bars - easier ride?
frankie77
03-05-12, 07:25 PM
i have an sk3, im 6 ft 4 and just wondering if fitting renthal bars or similar. would these make for an easier ride?
comfort kit makes a world of difference.
frankie77
03-05-12, 07:48 PM
comfort kits from who??
Shawthing
03-05-12, 09:38 PM
http://www.topyokes.com/comfort_kit_+_handlebars/307
This is the second time i've posted this link today!
You will find yourself very muchmore upright. Takes the weightoff your wrists but more wind in your face.
For a half way house you could go for raised clip-ons instead. e.g. Helibars or Accossato http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=176399
mpsricky
03-05-12, 09:47 PM
i got helibars made big difference over stock. im 6' 2'' btw. Still couldnt do ne more than about 200-250 miles on a run.
I got these last year,its like a different bike:p
http://www.topyokes.com/comfort_kit_+_handlebars/307 (http://www.topyokes.com/comfort_kit_+_handlebars/307)
Make sure if you order them you don't need them for a certain tour,they usually take over a month to deliver.
I found with the kit nothing else to change(brake lines,clutch cable) although I did trim the windscreen a little on each side.
After the change you can ride all day with no aches & with the renthals it can bring out the hooligan in you:D
Would defo recommend these but don't expect them soon!
maviczap
04-05-12, 08:35 AM
I got these last year,its like a different bike:p
http://www.topyokes.com/comfort_kit_+_handlebars/307 (http://www.topyokes.com/comfort_kit_+_handlebars/307)
Make sure if you order them you don't need them for a certain tour,they usually take over a month to deliver.
Or much longer
There was a 2nd hand pointy comfort kit on Ebay, have a look there as well
Im really interested in buying one of those kits. Whats peoples experience on fitting them ? simple job? does all the switches and levers and brake pot go back on ok? and is the ignition straight forward to put in that new hole and fix ?
depends how go you are at spannering.
tank off, airbox off, throttle bodies out then route new throttle cable and connect to throttle bodies.
take all the switch gear, leavers, throttle off
remove brake lines
remove top yoke, ignition, bars
fit ignition new top yoke and bars
drill holes for the switchgear in bars then route the control wiring
put new brake hoses on and bleed system
put throttle bodies, air box, and tank back on.
there is a bit more to it but that's the basics.
frankie77
04-05-12, 01:51 PM
im looking at a cheaper fix, will a SUZUKI GSF 650 BANDIT 2008 TOP YOKE fit?
doubt it.
remember you have to factor in throttle cables and brake lines.
it sounds like too big a job for me, although it does not sound like rocket science. I wish there was a ride in ride out
service for this sort of thing.
frankie77
04-05-12, 02:21 PM
do you not still have to have different lines on the comfort kit?
you would think there would be an easy fix somewhere......im guessing that the sv naked would be a good swap if there was any to be had
Jayneflakes
04-05-12, 03:57 PM
This thread is how I did it (http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=157076), basically I used a Naked top yoke that I had machined down so that I could fit my own risers to. Once I had the bars on, I fitted new brake lines, throttle cables and a clutch cable from a V-Strom. I also had to extend the wiring loom from the switch gear on both sides. This was required because my bars are roughly five inches higher than clip ons.
The hardest part was fitting new throttle cables with out removing any of the throttle body parts, small hands are a must for this. In terms of easiness, I would say that it needs a roofie! (yes, that was a date rape joke!)
Cost was about £100. The position it gave me makes my bike an absolute hoot to ride and was well worth the effort it took to do.
Hope that helps.
I also had to extend the wiring loom from the switch gear on both sides. This was required because my bars are roughly five inches higher than clip ons.
ermmm guess what... i also do a kit for this with oem connectors so it just a case of plugging it in :rolleyes:
Jayneflakes
04-05-12, 07:43 PM
ermmm guess what... i also do a kit for this with oem connectors so it just a case of plugging it in :rolleyes:
If only you lived nearer to me, I have the desire to raid your workshop for SV goodies! :smt119
frankie77
08-05-12, 06:45 PM
where would you suggest getting the throttle/clutch cable from? and the brake hoses?, whats the issue with the wiring?
davepreston
08-05-12, 06:54 PM
cables from bibio , and id just get the wiring mod from bibio while im at it tbh
davepreston
08-05-12, 06:56 PM
ive a buckshee sv650 naked top yoke if your after one
i don't do the throttle cables just yet but will very soon. as far as i'm aware the naked top yoke has a different offset from the sport. i would not recommend that you drill your S yoke and fit risers to it but saying that i have never heard of any snapping because of it but i would look to getting the underside 'beefed up'.
frankie77
08-05-12, 07:13 PM
iv read elsewhere that the sk3 throttle can be re-routed not needing a new 1, is this right?
frankie77
08-05-12, 07:14 PM
what about the brake lines? are they just to be changed to the naked model?
maviczap
08-05-12, 07:30 PM
Yes, easiest way to sort this out, with all the cables & lines
it all really depends on how high/wide you go
Jayneflakes
08-05-12, 10:00 PM
I went to my local chop shop for throttle cables and had them custom made. They were a bit tight at first, but now glide so smoothly. Brake lines were from the chop shop too and were cut to length before fitting. I spliced the cables in the switch gear using new wire as closely colour matched as I could, this extended the cables by six inches. By doing all of this I was able to fit risers that lift the bars by four inches and put it back by one and a half inches.
Well worth all of the effort too.
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