Pipe dream....? Builders advice.

[MisterTommyH]

So.... I saw this today, and got to thinking that it would actually be quite fun to do.

http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz78/Thomas_Nathaniel_Hender/Example.jpg

I'm usually the first to jump into a 'Builders help needed' tread, but in all honesty I'm used to dealing with stuff on a bigger scale (steel frame / concrete frame) so I'd probably massively over design something like this so wondered what anyone thinks about this being possible.

I was thinking of fixing ply board to the walls using resin / mechanical anchors into the blockwork. Not sure if the timber stud above would be capable of taking the weight of a person hanging sideways off it, but if so the ply board would be fixed to the studs with coach bolts (?) Ply board to be pre-drilled with a grid of holes for fixings holds to.

This is my hall way -
http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz78/Thomas_Nathaniel_Hender/IMG_1509.jpg

And I'm thinking I could board out every vertical face.

A quick sketch of each of the walls -

http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz78/Thomas_Nathaniel_Hender/StairClimb-Model.jpg

So opinions..... Stupid? Feasible? Better way of doing it? It'll probably come to nothing, but thought it was worth looking into at least.

Also, ignore the rad because I'm thinking of getting rid of that and putting a doorway through there into the garage.

Edit: Thinking about it, if I do knock through I could also board out the garage - getting through the doorway would be a unique bouldering obstacle.

[DJFridge]

Stupid? Probably. Feasible? Probably. Accident waiting to happen? Probably. Should you do it? Probably!

[yorkie_chris]

F*ck yeah get it done!!

If you attach the plywood well enough it will be basically self supporting and load spreading.

You should definitely board the horizontal bits too, possibly remodel it as a decent angled overhang.

[widepants]

dont forget your self and safety soft landing mat.

[Specialone]

One question, have you been drinking Tom?

[MisterTommyH]

You should definitely board the horizontal bits too, possibly remodel it as a decent angled overhang.

I thought about that, but I'd only get about 100mm slope over the whole area because theres a concrete slab over (bathroom above) so for that amount it might as well just be horizontal with a couple of foot holds.

One question, have you been drinking Tom?

Not at all. I've been thinking for a while about boarding out the garage, but it's full of crap and the bikes always in there so I'd have to empty it everytime I wanted to use it, plus it's not much fun just moving sideways. Out of interest..... ball park figure for disconnecting a rad, and installing a concrete lintel through a 100 blockwork wall, install doorframe etc?

dont forget your self and safety soft landing mat. Hmmm, good point. Whole idea is for it to be used when I can't be arsed to go to a wall, or I've got no one to belay. Maybe a top rope to an anchor point on the trusses.... there must be some kind of auto belay device that works similar to a seat belt mechanism.... i.e. only kicks in when theres a rapid acceleration.

[Specialone]

Out of interest..... ball park figure for disconnecting a rad, and installing a concrete lintel through a 100 blockwork wall, install doorframe etc?


100mm block?
If its going from your house to the garage, it will be a double skin wall probably 250mm?

Price, if like above, probably around £700 inc materials, skip extra.

[HoL]

That would be amazing, you should also swap the stairs for a slide & have a ballpond at the bottom :)

[yorkie_chris]

Hmmm, good point. Whole idea is for it to be used when I can't be arsed to go to a wall, or I've got no one to belay. Maybe a top rope to an anchor point on the trusses.... there must be some kind of auto belay device that works similar to a seat belt mechanism.... i.e. only kicks in when theres a rapid acceleration.

Remodel the lot, extend the stairway space to the top of the loft and add a top rope setup.

You get those autobelay devices at many walls. Right leap of faith trusting them to lower you down!

[MisterTommyH]

That would be amazing, you should also swap the stairs for a slide & have a ballpond at the bottom :)

:winner:

I've been there 2 years and not decorated or installed light shades etc.... Finally going to put my unique signature on the place.

Think I might stop short of extending into the loft though.... advantage of the current plan is that I can simply overboard 1 wall (or part of) at a time.

[Owenski]

+1 on the over engineering type. My choice would be to rip out the plaster board fit a steel frame work just unsing simple box section sunken partly into the timber stud walling structure, clad that with your 22mm ply and crack on fitting the holds. Its so cool you'd be mad not to do it!

[454697819]

very straight forward,

Use 2 x 1 or 2 x 2 battens fixed over your existing plasterboard back into either the trusses in the roof or the thermalite block, use either resin bolts or plugs and screws at 300 centres and line and level the battens, ply over board with at least 18mm ply and bobs your aunt.

to be honest, you could probably get away with simply using big ol screws 10 x 100's through 25mm ply or MDF straight over the plasterboard, use grip fill on the back liberally too and i think that would hold no problem..

dont over complicate it you would be very surprised at the strength of ply and 10 x 100 screws.

nice idea btw

[MisterTommyH]

Definately won't be putting a steel frame in. If it can't be done with the substrate thats there then it's won't be getting done.

The blockwork should be fine, my worry with the stud wasn't really the fixings into it, but getting enough of them in to spread the load over LOTS of studs as it's probably not up to taking my weight.

[454697819]

Definately won't be putting a steel frame in. If it can't be done with the substrate thats there then it's won't be getting done.

The blockwork should be fine, my worry with the stud wasn't really the fixings into it, but getting enough of them in to spread the load over LOTS of studs as it's probably not up to taking my weight.

Then just apply the ply straight to the existing plasterboard, gripfill bond it and used chuffing big screws, it will be fine.

You would be surprised as to what you can hang from it.

[Nobbylad]

For the Thermalite blocks, you can get square shaped plugs which hammer straight into the block and expand when you screw into them. Drilling those blocks, then plugging them is carp as when you drill, you remove most of the material that you need to get a fix.

[carelesschucca]

What a great idea i love it... Wouldn't get away with it but my lordy do I like it...

[the white rabbit]

Just bolt them all the way through to a mirror image climbing wall in your elderly neighbour's house. As long as you are both half way up (or down) it will be fine.

No lampshades? Student.

[carelesschucca]

Always found lampshades strange things!

Only time you notice them is in the shop when your buying them or if someone hasn't got one... Any other time their just part of the furniture...


Sorry I'll take my coat... :(

[SoulKiss]

What kind of pipe? Crack-pipe?

[MisterTommyH]

No lampshades? Student.

I'm minimalist.

Something like this:

http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz78/Thomas_Nathaniel_Hender/Wall3d.jpg

[Jayneflakes]

Don't forget a finger board and dead hang board too.

Dead hanging builds up passive strength which is handy when you are hanging about fixing gear.

I used to run a Climbing Wall and spent many hours route setting, teaching and training.

I miss climbing.

Oh by the way, Bendcrete built the wall I ran and used three quater inch ply fixed at twelve inch intervals to a steel frame. The holds lasted really well too. Think about use of chalk though, use too much and your home could get rather dusty! ;-)

[The Idle Biker]

Brilliant idea, I love it. Go for it.

Would you have a safety harness connected to a joist for example or just let people take their chances of a broken back if they fall?

[Tom_the_great]

Just out of curiosty could this be achived on say an outdoor wall ? ie the face of your house ?

[MisterTommyH]

Don't forget a finger board and dead hang board too.

Oh by the way, Bendcrete built the wall I ran and used three quater inch ply fixed at twelve inch intervals to a steel frame. The holds lasted really well too. Think about use of chalk though, use too much and your home could get rather dusty! ;-)

Not sure about finger boards. I'm liable to fall of them quite often and there's nowhere I'd feel safe putting them, although a dead hang so I'm just above the btm step wouldn't be too daunting.

Brilliant idea, I love it. Go for it.

Would you have a safety harness connected to a joist for example or just let people take their chances of a broken back if they fall?

To be honest I'm going more for a bouldering set-up and it's rare to wear harnesses for that. I'd try to make sure there wasn't anything too difficult.

Just out of curiosty could this be achived on say an outdoor wall ? ie the face of your house ?

If you wanted to do this to a brickwork wall you could simply bolt the holds straight into the brickwork, or fix a board to the brickwork to give you more flexibility to move holds. Might be a planning issue though.

[dizzyblonde]

Just get out and climb some real rocks? Or join a club that have the walls already set up?

[MisterTommyH]

Just get out and climb some real rocks? Or join a club that have the walls already set up?

There are about 4 or 5 centres within about 20 miles and it's about £6-10 quid entry per time, which isn't bad, but I find that I can only really climb for a couple of hours before I'm tired..... which means I'd have to sit there and wait to have another go later or pay entry again.

I'm going for something that I could use as and when I feel like it, and without the need for someone to hold the other end of the rope. Still going to be using the climbing centre for proper stuff. Also I can't lead climb, so for 'real rocks' I'd need somewhere with a top rope already set up and thats seriously lacking round here.

Like the title says.... it's a bit of a pipe dream, but I like the idea...... and it would be quite cool.

[Owenski]

Just out of curiosty could this be achived on say an outdoor wall ? ie the face of your house ?

Yeah to your rear elevation you can do what ever you please provided you're not in a special conservation area. Timber wouldnt fair well in the UK climate so I'd consider cladding it in a fibreglass frame much like the outdoor climbing walls you see elsewhere. IMO That would be the ideal solution but no Tom,
NO WE'RE NOT GONNA DO THAT TO YOURS OK!
Lets just leave it at a sleeper wall for now eh pal.

[MisterTommyH]

I would have thought that Marine grade Ply would be ok externally in the UK.

[Owenski]

Marine ply inst waterproof its moisture resistant, its used near water yes but generally its still protected further.
So yeah of all woods marine ply would be the best option but it would still need some protecting if you're hanging a humans weight off bolts tapped through it.
As soon as the timber became saturated (which would happen anywhere in the UK. It would then swell and that'd deform the fixing holes (if they're put under any load). It may be good for 5, 7 even 10years but sooner or later it would defiantly fail and unless you'd converted the entire patio into a foam pit then its gonna hurt when it does lol.

[454697819]

you could use cementitious board externally..

[Owenski]

^ that would work.

[Specialone]

Yep exterior ply wont last outside, it will still separate the layers and swell.

If outside id just bolt them straight to the wall.

Tom, instead of these hand things, why dont you just get a really bad plasterer or artexer to do it, they will leave loads of lumps all over the wall, climb them :)

I could recommend a couple ;)