Choke cable hard to move.

[Razer93]

Hey guys, I've recently bought a Sv650s K2 and its been standing in the fella's garage for about 8 months.

I found the choke cable to be hard to move and I thought nothing of it, but I've recently seen a video on youtube with the vlogger turning off his choke and it took no effort atall. It's got me thinking that my cable must need lubricating or its trapped somewhere.

Is it ok to use WD40 as a lubricant or am I best getting something else, if so what can I use?

If WD40 is ok to use, do I just blast it with a few shots, leave it and try the cable, rinse and repeat?

Thanks guys!

[StewartR]

WD's has always done me fine for that job. Google cable oiler and you'll find a cunning clamp to force the magic juice twist inner and outer. There are posher ways of doing it and you can also fashion a funnel type contraption using blue tac or plasticine or my ex's custard and allow gravity and some light, 3 in 1 type oil to do the work for you.

[Razer93]

WD's has always done me fine for that job. Google cable oiler and you'll find a cunning clamp to force the magic juice twist inner and outer. There are posher ways of doing it and you can also fashion a funnel type contraption using blue tac or plasticine or my ex's custard and allow gravity and some light, 3 in 1 type oil to do the work for you.

Hey Stew, thanks for replying so quickly!

Yeah I have seen that little tool with the oil aswel, around £10 IRRC. I'll try some WD40 and see what happens and report back.


Thanks again :)

[Geodude]

How are the choke plungers and splitter on the choke cable? My plungers were really gummed up so had them out and cleaned them and the cables after the splitter were really rusty and dry which didn't help. I read somewhere that you can pack the splitter with grease to stop that happening.

[Sir Trev]

Don't waste your time - replace the cable and the plungers. It's a common problem and could leave you with a jammed cable at some point and a very rough running engine.

[Dave20046]

How are the choke plungers and splitter on the choke cable? My plungers were really gummed up so had them out and cleaned them and the cables after the splitter were really rusty and dry which didn't help. I read somewhere that you can pack the splitter with grease to stop that happening.

Yep that's exactly what I did. Oiled the cable with used engine oil (wouldn't use wd40 personally, unless its to shift the moisture before lubricating), freed everything up, packed the splitter with grease, removed the plungers cleaned the corrosion from them, checked the springs, made sure they had a smooth action and put it back together with plenty of copperslip on the plunger bolts.

[Razer93]

Thanks for the suggestion guys, I've got the choke cable a whole lot better now, but I ain't sure if I've found another problem :(

The black control units (black housing with indicator switch, lights, start button etc), each unit can move slightly with pressure clockwise, is this normal because I can't find any way on how to tighten them down to the bars more? I know the bars are after market (renthals) but can't see a way on tightening them to the bars. Any helps guys?

Thanks, Ben.

[Geodude]

I wrapped a bit of electrical tape round the bars (to make them a bit thicker) under the switch units which means they tightend up a bit more. Dont go mad as its only plastic. HTH

xGx

[punyXpress]

There's a little peg on the switch to locate it on the original carp bar. this was probably removed to fit the Renthals, so do as geodude says.

[mep]

Don't waste your time - replace the cable and the plungers. It's a common problem and could leave you with a jammed cable at some point and a very rough running engine.

Get it replaced. When I bought mine the cable was a bit stiff and would sometimes it would still have the choke on one cylinder and make tickover erratic. I oiled it and thought it was ok, but is wasn't and eventually fouled a plug and caused me some grief. Once a new cable was installed everything was so much better and smoother.