Euro trip 2012

[Doinitmyway]

Well the time came and went pretty quick but I have not long gotten back from this years Euro ride. The plan was 10 days starting with the ferry from Plymouth to Santander then spend the day in Valencia being a tourist with mum :) then take 3 days to ride from Valencia to Hopferau - right on the Germany/Austria border. Meet up with 3 friends riding from the UK and spend the weekend riding the Grossglockner and a bit of the Deutche Alpinestrasse. After that take two days to ride home, stopping over in the Mosel Valley.

Things didn't quite go to plan but the bike didn't miss a beat.
Started out on Brittany ferries on the Sunday (£200 one way with ferrysavers.com). Someone was looking down on me. That day I rode under some of the blackest clouds ever but the M5 and A38 stayed dry, blue skies at the ferry port even.

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Once out the other end is was a long cross country run to Valencia. I headed south then took the N627 to Burgos and then the N-234 to Soria, Calatayud and Calamochi. This is an epic road, probably more suited to 750's and upwards because high cruising speeds are easy, I was mostly averaging 80 but I reckon a bigger bike could take alot of the road alot quicker. From there it was boring A-road and motorway to Valencia. In all it took 9hours from ferry to garden gate. There are some stunning buildings in Valencia so it was rude not to go visit them.

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After leaving Valencia it was head north! Boring motorway toll roads to just north of Barcelona then head up the C-17 to Ripoll. From there I had heard that one of the ultimate roads we should all try once is the N-152 from Ripoll to Puigcerda (on the Spain France Border). Well it lived upto my expectations and then some :p A simply awesome road made even better by the stunning scenery and the complete lack of traffic. Care has to be taken as this road invites you to wind it open!

C-17 near Ripoll

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N-152 (signposted more as the N-260)

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From Puigcerda I wanted to head back to the coast to head for Gruissan near Narbonne. I had seen a beachfront hotel I fancied staying for the night on Google earth so why not! This meant heading down the N-116 to Perpignan in France. Another great road with fantastic scenery but simply TOO much traffic to enjoy....

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After managing to get a room at the beachfront hotel the next day was another motorway slog from Narbonne, Montpellier, Lyon and then Besancon. After arriving near Besancon at half past 2 in the afternoon I decided to carry on as I would happily ride to 6pm and look for accomodation then. So I started on the route for the next day. Well I was blessed with finding another fantastic road (thanks Dicky Ticker for the heads up) the Rue De Vosges. Using this road I passed the Col de Croix, the Col de Menin and eventually found accomadation near La Bresse.

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Next day was onto Lake Constance and onto Hopferau....... well that was the plan. I managed to get to Lake Constance and pulled up at a layby to wait for the rest of the group to ring at 1pm as agreed.

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Unfortunately after a while of not getting thru to one of my friends, another rang to say they had been involved in an accident on the autobahn negotiating a HGV that was itself approaching a slow moving caravan. One hit the rear quarter of the truck and spun into the path of one of the others in the outside lane - taking him out too. Luckily the third managed to stop behind the melee. Although panicked he managed to do as right as you think you can [-o< . Found out the hospitals they were going to, found out where the bikes were being recovered to and got all their essential docs together. Then he rang me to let me know and told me roughly where they were. I headed off back to them immediately.

Upshot was both had open fractures :( one in the left forearm, the other the right lower leg..... They were taken to 2 different hospitals (luckily only 5 miles from each other). Both then found out that their travel insurance only covered them on bikes upto 125cc!!!!!! I had gone to M&S and they specifically said I was covered while riding/driving any vehicle I held a full License for in the UK. A lesson learned

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After spending two nights in the town the hospitals were in (with the German equivalent of Basil Fawlty running the hotel), making sure we visited their bikes and retrieved their clothes, phoned insurance co's up and generally got balls rolling etc - we moved on to the Mosel Valley a night early. The last friend had no real biking holiday after all.
We stayed at http://www.river-valley-guest-house.co.uk/ and they couldn't have been better hosts. He is an English chap called Mike and with his wife Lynn they run this very basic but cheap B&B. Found them on this very forum :takeabow: We arrived a day earlier than announced but they couldn't have been more helpful, nothing was a problem. Mike even sorted out a big figure of 8 route for us so we got to see some great roads - he did not disapoint. The whole area is so scenic and some great roads which encourage positive riding ;)

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So there you have it! Dont think about it - do it! Just make sure you are properly covered! Carole Nash give me 90 days Euro insurance and accident/breakdown cover so sorted there. M&S definately cover me while riding the bike - oh and dont forget your E111 card!!!
Grossglockner will have to wait till next year but I also have idea's of other regions I would like to spend some time. The Pyrenees and the Vosges regions look stunning and deserve more time than I had for them. All noted for future use :smt115

The bike never missed a beat. It did drip litterally one little drop of oil onto my parents garage floor, but after 9hours of 35C plus temps at mostly 80mph I can forgive it! It never again dropped oil after that but it was cooler most other places. The BT023's have now got around 6000miles on them, the front I reckon could do it again, the rear if you look hard appears to be squaring but it still handles great.

Thanks for looking!

Chris

[pookie]

that was a great write up..the roads look fantastic..hope your friend is sorted out ...

[embee]

Super account of a great trip.

As you say, just do it. Start of August isn't the time to be touring Europe, it's pretty much full holiday season for many countries, but the last week of August and on into Sept is usually perfect touring time. Got my next trip pencilled in, just watch for the good weather and ..............:cheers:

[Loopydog]

Nice write-up Chris, with great photos. Thanks for the mention - as you know, we try our best to look after bikers and especially forum members! Glad I was able to get your 'fallen comrade' Darren home, after collecting him from hospital and sorting his flight, and collecting his bike from the recovery depot - maybe we'll see you again before Christmas, if you're over helping him collect it . He seemed very positive and I hope he'll be riding again soon. All the best, Mike

[Artful]

Great write up and brilliant pics. Thanks for sharing.

[STRAMASHER]

Top stuff! :thumbsup:

Hope your next trip has a happier ending!

[Doinitmyway]

Mike - you can be rest assured we will be back!

As an update to this story. Both of my friends were released from hospital and were not charged a single cent because the E111 card covers you for emergency care and further care required because of the initial injury. It was probably not a coincidence that being in Germany they tend to play by the rules. I have heard of Spanish hospitals refusing the E111.

There are so many things I will never forget from this trip. From the Hotel in the Vosges playing a Wet Wet Wet album while I ate my dinner (only person eating and I was English? I don't know!?) to the German hotelier in Ludwigshafen who was like Basil Fawlty! "Sprechen sie Englich?". No No No came back the answer!

I love touring now :thumbsup: Sweden or try for Austria next year? Decisions decisions..........Anyone up for it next year?????????

Chris

[Loopydog]

We used to live in Sweden Chris, so should you decide to go there and need any advice - from 'the horse's mouth', so-to-speak ..... just ask. Like, for example,if you decided to go direct to Sweden, by ferry, the only way you can currently do this is by travelling as a 'passenger' on DFDS Tor Line freight crossing from Immingham to Gothenburg (they used to do Newcastle to Norway or Sweden as a normal passenger route, but it closed in 2007/08). Otherwise, it's across to Denmark or Germany and up from there.

I think your middle paragraph captures what for me is the essence of touring - I can feel your enthusiasm. It's all the little events, meetings, sights, smells and sounds that stay with you - forever. There is no feeling like it in the world. Those who've done it know, those that haven't ..... what are you waiting for?

[Loopydog]

By-the-way, meant to ask .... do you still have your FZR400's? I'm after one myself, so if you hear of a good one for sale, give me a shout. It's to do with hazy, happy memories - just like the ones you talked about ...... France by a Four Hundred! Compiegne, Laon, Giverny, Les Andelyes, ah, happy days!

[Doinitmyway]

Yes Mike, I keep the sig up to date! Here is the Project FZR400RR

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[Stingo]

Is the N623 a toll road? Just wondered why you didn't take that one to Burgos...

[Doinitmyway]

No reason really. I had to get to Valencia by a decent time that evening so I planned for fast motorway/'A' road to start and end, with a bit of slower possibly scenic roads in the middle part.

The A67 where I travelled on wasn't toll road, there was a petrol station juuuust where I needed it. I don't know if it's just me but getting out of Santander you seem to be doing alot of doubling back on yourself.

Riding along the N627 and N234 is like riding on the surface of Mars at times, the reddness of the soil has to be seen. There are loads of 'spaghetti-western' churches by the roads on this route too.

The worst bit about this leg is that I was using an old tomtom (the only one I had with maps of Spain) and they have built so many new by-pases and out of town industrial estates that near the outskirts of the major towns I ended up stopping and trying to re-route the tom tom - not good in 35 -40 C heat :mad:

Chris

[Stingo]

Thanks for that. I'll stick with my plan for now I think...N623 to Burgos and beyond!

[DaveRushton]

I really want to do something like this, more concerned on the cost though, could you give me an estimate on how much it cost you?

Thanks :)

[embee]

Bike touring isn't exactly cheap these days, but you know that.

I do a couple of Euro trips each year of varying sorts. I usually try to camp. You're unlikely to find many campsites for less than Eu10/night for 1 bike+rider+tent now, some are more, some slightly less but not much. It's a reasonable ballpark figure. If weather is carp, use a cheap motel from one of teh chains, Formule1 etc. Often around Eu30/night for a room with up to 3 people (varies). If you're solo it is expensive but when weather dictates........

Eating is how you want to do it. Eating out usually cheaper at lunchtime. I usually alternate eat-out one day, supermarket and picnic next day. Sandwich lunch in a roadside cafe can be done for Eu5, but a set menu lunch might only be Eu8 or something. Most motorway places are pretty good on the Continent, some are fabulous, worth using if on your route.

Euro50/day living costs is a typical estimating ballpark I've found.

Fuel costs pretty much same as UK for estimating purposes.

10day trip/2k miles I'd usually estimate £600 or so (Eu750) but allow for a bit more contingency (ferry extra). Obviously it depends on your style.

[Doinitmyway]

Disregarding the Ferry (£200 one way with ferrysavers.com) and the channel tunnel (£30 one way) - I allowed myself 100 Euro's a day for fuel, food and accomodation. I dont do camping though I do enjoy it. On a bike I'd rather not have to lug even more stuff around and worry about how secure it is while I'm off out and about.

The most expensive room was in Gruissan, right on the beach @ 70 euro's.
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The cheapest was mike at River valley at 25 Euro's per person per night. Can't recommend hime enough!!
http://www.river-valley-guest-house.co.uk/ (http://www.river-valley-guest-house.co.uk/)

The hotel in the Vosges was 50 Euro's a night inc brekkie and he did me a 3 course meal for an extra 5 Euro's :thumbsup:
http://www.hautsviaux.fr/

The hotel in Ludwigshafen was 38Euro's a night for economy (ie shower but no toilet in room, shared one on landing) inc brekkie.
http://www.svg-hotel-adria.de/

It's not easy to find the formula 1 type hotels when you aren't on the major routes so factor 30-50 Euro's for a room. Food is much cheaper out there and you can eat 'well' for 10 Euro's a meal and a bit more for plonk/beer.

Fuel in Northern/Central spain was 1.35Euro's a litre. East coast it went up to 1.45. France its 1.55Euro's upwards and Germany it was 1.65 upwards.

Make sure your bike is upto the trip before you go, might see you out there :smt041

Chris

[Luckypants]

The most expensive room was in Gruissan, right on the beach @ 70 euro's.
The cheapest was mike at River valley at 25 Euro's per person per night.
The hotel in the Vosges was 50 Euro's a night inc brekkie and he did me a 3 course meal for an extra 5 Euro's :thumbsup:
The hotel in Ludwigshafen was 38Euro's a night for economy (ie shower but no toilet in room, shared one on landing) inc brekkie.

It's not easy to find the formula 1 type hotels when you aren't on the major routes so factor 30-50 Euro's for a room.

Those rates seem pretty cheap to me, we just came back from France and were paying about €65 a room for a double. (although it does work out at €32.50 a head :o) Any tips on finding cheap rooms?

[embee]

I have used the truck-stop places in France on occasion, the main concern is where the bike is parked. A couple of places we found the owner let us put the bikes in his garage. They usually work out pretty cheap with a meal included (need to be good value if the truckers use them), but scenery isn't usually a strong point.
The Formule1 (http://www.hotelformule1.com/gb/home/index.shtml) chain covers quite a big part of Euroland now, check them out. They usually come up on the satnav accommodation search, I'm sure there's a free POI download somewhere. Formule1 is, err, basic usually.
There are several chains, e.g. see list here (http://eurapart.com/budget.html).

In Germany I've sometimes used B&B's in small towns just off the autobahns. Just pull off and see what's there usually. Cheapest I ever had was DM15/night (before Euro), that was under a fiver in 1999, but it was over a dairy (i.e. where the cows were milked) and did have an interesting aroma. All adds to the fun!

[Doinitmyway]

Those rates seem pretty cheap to me, we just came back from France and were paying about €65 a room for a double. (although it does work out at €32.50 a head :o) Any tips on finding cheap rooms?

A pretty face goes far...it couldn't have been that then :smt073

I hadn't booked anywhere. No where I stayed was in a big town. They wern't hotel chains so I suppose they took 1 look at a knackered motorcyclist and made a price up I guess. The most expensive place was 20metres from the beach (and I had their cheap room!). Mike at river valley was cheapest as I suppose his market is motorcyclists who just need a roof, a bed and a bit of breakfast - and he does it well!

All were very welcoming places (except Ludwigshafen but we did turn up at 9.45pm and reception shut at 10pm), next day he was ok once we realised he was basil fawlty ;)

Chris

[Loopydog]

.... not to mention the secure garage for the bikes, UK satellite tv in guests lounge, workshop if you need it, free local road and route advice, home-baked scones on arrival (you missed them Chris, as you arrived unexpectedly, but Dan & Co got them!) and van for recovery at fuel cost only (if unlucky enough to need it) ..... it's 20 euros pp for twin room, 25 for single. Doesn't get any cheaper! We welcome forum members particularly.

[rivsm]

What a stunning write up. Really makes me want to bite the bullet and do a Euro trip too. Sorry abt your mates. Still looks like you had a great time. Oh the scenery.

[Doinitmyway]

The difference in the quality of roads and the lack of traffic over there have to be seen to be believed (normal big town rush hour aside). Once you are over there you will not regret a thing.

There are no doubt stunning places over here but trying to get by in pidgeon spanish/french/german is half the fun aswell. Getting lost along the way is no problem and sometimes a benefit. Whats to loose.....

Will start planning the 2013 trip once christmas is out of the way but it's looking like trying to get to the Grossglockner again :smt083.....

[rivsm]

Sounds like great fun. I will definately be doing a euro trip soon.

[Vinc]

Nice write-up Chris, with great photos. Thanks for the mention - as you know, we try our best to look after bikers and especially forum members!

Mike, would you care to share the address of your place?

[Runako]

I really want to do something like this, more concerned on the cost though, could you give me an estimate on how much it cost you?

Thanks :)

It can be done even cheaper. If in Spain, especially along the coast towns (Barcelona/Valencia etc) or the French South Coast (Sete/Montpellier etc) you can utilise the Hostel network. A card is E6/7 and allows you to stay in hostels costing between E9 - E25 per person per night, cost depending on having less to a room and more facilities. Generally very good quailty of room/bathroom/entertainment facilities and great for socialising.

I was totally skeptical beforehand as it was my first tour and the thought of staying with strangers who spoke a different language was slightly offputting, but what you are likel to find is that you're amongst fellow travellers and so the atmosphere is very relaxed and convivial. Its definately the first option I would consider if available (where costs are a factor).

French/Spanish country roads are much better than here. So you'll spend more on petrol :D Cost per day depends on mileage but I did a tank a day on most days.

You can do two weeks for less than £1k including return ferry. All depends on where you go. Stopping at a destination for a couple of days will also save you a lot of money so find somewhere interesting to stop.

If you're interested in touring 2013 mention it on the forum as others may also be interested.

[Doinitmyway]

Mike, would you care to share the address of your place?


River Valley Guest House
Langgasse 2
54492 Zeltingen Rachtig
Mosel Valley
Germany

......is his address. http://www.river-valley-guest-house.co.uk/ is his webby

Will be seeing him v soon ;)

Chris