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Lushman
10-11-12, 10:33 AM
A few weeks ago, I bought a single bike trailer to take my bike to Sprints and track days next year.

But I have no experience of tying down and using ratchet straps.
I was intending to use it to today as I am getting a new rear tyre on my SV, but decided it would just be easier to ride it to the garage instead.

Anyone got any tips and what not to do?

Cheers

Lushman

Mr Speirs
10-11-12, 10:35 AM
If it has a stop for the front wheel then buy a tyre down and job done.

trudd
10-11-12, 10:55 AM
I use on of these (http://www.mandp.co.uk/productinfo/500303/Luggage/Tie-Downs-and-Straps/On-Two-Wheels) and a couple of ratchet straps. Easy to use and works a treat.

Kenzie
10-11-12, 11:56 AM
I use on of these (http://www.mandp.co.uk/productinfo/500303/Luggage/Tie-Downs-and-Straps/On-Two-Wheels) and a couple of ratchet straps. Easy to use and works a treat.

Those are ok but the ratchet you get with them is poo. Use that kit but with a better strap. I also run a strap over the pillion seat with a towel to protect the bodywork.

Jayneflakes
10-11-12, 12:05 PM
We use some sprung clips that we got from the Kawasaki dealer, they use them to strap down bikes in crates it seems. We also use ratchet straps, but not the thin cheap ones. Usually we strap the front end down good and hard, using the forks tubes between the yokes rather than fragile parts (like handlebars that the RAC used when they picked me up last!).

The rear end of the bike can then be secured easily and with a lot less fuss. Rather than just tying the wheels, we tend to use higher points too just incase the bike tries to fall over. Higher up the bike gives you more leverage and thus more security, but you do have to be careful what you fix the straps too. We also ensure that the bike cannot move back and forth.

The reason we have to do this is because we have a flat bed trailer and not a bike specific one. The principles still apply though. I hope that this is of help to you.

trudd
10-11-12, 12:09 PM
Those are ok but the ratchet you get with them is poo. Use that kit but with a better strap. I also run a strap over the pillion seat with a towel to protect the bodywork.

Mine didn't come with any straps but yes I would agree that a decent set of straps is worth the money. I used to put straps on the back as well but don't bother anymore but I guess a lot of it will depend on the trailer design and tie down points.

Dicky Ticker
10-11-12, 01:36 PM
Remember a car or van towing a trailor is limited to a max speed of 60mph and forbidden from using third lane on motorways

I have seen them belting down the third lane on motorways at 70-75mph and a few mile further down the motorway on the hard shoulder paying homage to the boys in blue.

Sir Trev
11-11-12, 12:04 PM
I'm guessing there will be some videos on Youtube explaining the different trailer tie-down methods?

NTECUK
11-11-12, 01:17 PM
Machine Mart do some good straps including the handle bar adapters.

johnnyrod
13-11-12, 01:11 PM
The cheap ratchet straps are indeed crap, mine lasted a few years and have frayed to bits. Got some Draper ones now, they were there at the time, much better but no plastic coating on the hooks.

I put one strap each from the handlebar to somewhere below and in front (in reality both ends hook in the same place but it's loop around the bar). Also one over the seat to stop it bouncing up and down.

NTECUK
13-11-12, 01:26 PM
There is a natty rear wheel strap adaptor. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/tie-downs-transportation/tyre-down-sportsbike

Wideboy
13-11-12, 01:30 PM
I go one round the front wheel tying it to the stop, one over the front of swing arm (by the shock) under the chain, and one each side going from the front corner up into the crash bung mounts then back down the the back corner then through the back wheel. Baptism of fire was a 370 mile round trip in some horrific conditions and the bike didnt move

If you have a flat towing bed I strongly recommend one of those new fangled front wheel grip contraptions on eBay, used one earlier in the year for a van and they are fantastic. They will support the bike fairly well even without straps, so very little amount of straps are needed.

I have big heavy duty straps used for machine transportation, rated to 1 1/2 tons but even still I've had a ratchet mechanism fail, luckily they have a fail safe system and wouldn't loose tension.

Obviously you want smooth and consistent driving, sudden movements can send the trailer into all sorts of bother especially a small trailer.

Whitty
13-11-12, 07:56 PM
I use ratchet straps threaded over bottom yokes. Avoids damage to bars, grips, throttle, etc. Two more at back from frame not subframe. I have a flat bed trailer and fixed blocks of wood where tyres 'land' and also front straps are at an angle pulling bike against headboard. Bike has never moved yet even on 200 mile round trips. One thing I would say is check the actual bike! I have lost tail pod and a seat on separate trips. Mega annoying when you get to a race with no seat, had to cut a car mat up and use that for day!! Think of your bikes electrics and air box intakes aswell in bad weather. Misfire due to damp at last meeting cost me dearly at last meeting of year:(

johnnyrod
14-11-12, 09:59 AM
Other stuff I forgot, some people say having the front cranked down for a long time will blow fork seals, I've not had a problem but I do let them off a bit overnight. Also when you've gone 5-10 miles down the road re-check them for slack. Always have a spare strap. Don't pull them hard over things as they can grate up in no time, strap+bit of bike isn't the same as a rope and pulley (sounds obvious perhaps!). Think that's all!

Whitty
14-11-12, 12:12 PM
Shouldn't do anything to seals unless you've got it pulled down to bump stops and compressing air gap. I let mine off if leaving in trailer just to give springs a rest.

Wideboy
14-11-12, 12:19 PM
I did wonder if it would damage the springs, like everyone else i decided to leave the ratchet loose unless towing