View Full Version : Naked top yoke options?
Owenski
18-11-12, 10:00 PM
I need a naked top yoke for the conversion but the pointy naked yokes are like rocking horse ****, one just sold on ebay (first I've seen on there in about 4 weeks) I bidded £75 assuming it was a safe bet... lost - winner took it for £77 :-O so what I wanna know is does anyone have one knocking about or anyone have an alternative idea that will do the same job?
You could drill the existing S yoke and fit bar risers (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CNC-15mm-BAR-RAISERS-CLAMP-RISERS-FOR-7-8-22mm-HANDLE-BARS-7-8-22-2-Riser-CR-KX-/181001389338?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2a2486051a#ht_2083wt_932).
Owenski
18-11-12, 10:48 PM
Ive considered that but I'm Not too keen on the drilled yoke idea due to how thing the standard s yoke is. The clamps are deep but the yoke its self is hollow so you're only drilling and then mounting them through about 5mm of alloy. To me that Just seems it would easily tare I wouldn't know the forces required and I recon it would work short term but I'd still want to do something to spread the load across the hollow rear.
Jayneflakes
19-11-12, 02:07 AM
I seem to recall that some one had inserts made that slotted into the underside of the yoke, possibly our very own Mr YC. The reinforcing of the yoke then kept it safe.
One thing I saw recently on a bright slime green Streetfighter, was the risers welded to the top yoke. The welds were filed, polished and looked really nice.
I was also bidding on that bad boy. I lost out too. Going to drill mine and get a couple of washers.
maviczap
19-11-12, 08:33 AM
There's always the Matt Yokes option
Ok I'll get my hat
How much is the cost of having a slab machined to spec ?
Matts Yokes do look very nice, just too expensive for me right now.
yorkie_chris
19-11-12, 08:56 AM
And you'd be more popular on here if you said you were buying your weed from abu hamza.
Owenski
19-11-12, 09:26 AM
hmm just found something on the search about plating the bottom and using chemical bond/liquid metal to fill in the gaps... could be a good temp fix.
Anyone any idea how much an OEM one direct from Suzuki would be?
I've been using these website for reference so far:
http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18709
http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=117417&highlight=throttle+cable&page=2
I also saw a post about someone using epoxy resin to fill out the underside. I think I am going to drill and use a washer as the above. If I feel unhappy about the result I'll take it to get welded too.
Geodude
19-11-12, 09:46 AM
Anyone any idea how much an OEM one direct from Suzuki would be?
Listed on alpha sports for 276 usd part number 51311-17G00 riser parts are around another 80 usd. HTH
Owenski
19-11-12, 10:18 AM
WOW!
The £210 from Redcar suzuki isnt looking too bad now.
i could be wrong but.. is the naked yoke not a different offset?
i could be wrong but.. is the naked yoke not a different offset?
I have heard that. A lot of people say they have fit fine too.
On a side note, did you manage to find out about the cable extensions? Any difference between 03/04 and 05+ switchgear connections? What is a typical turn around time for them?
there is no difference between the years for the extensions. i'll PM you when i get a set made up :-)
throttle cable extensions will be a few weeks.
Cheers. I'm going to try use the DL650 throttle cables, but I'll have a set of the extensions though.
Jayneflakes
19-11-12, 01:55 PM
I used a DL clutch cable too, it works a treat.
It was recommended to me by some one on here and they were not wrong. :D
Owenski
19-11-12, 02:06 PM
i could be wrong but.. is the naked yoke not a different offset?
The lower stem is the same part number for both S and N models, as are the fork lowers, spindles and spacers. I would imagine that makes the upper yoke 100% same as the S with the obvious exception that the N yoke has the v shaped plate on the front and the pre-drilled holes for the bar risers.
(some other differences exist underneath I imagine).
I used a DL clutch cable too, it works a treat.
It was recommended to me by some one on here and they were not wrong. :D
Hopefully be drilling at the weekend and fudging up some sort of back plates for the top yoke.
I have
DL650 Throttle cables and housing.
DL650 Clutch cable
SV650 Braided lines made up to 830mm (Ebay wezmoto)
SV650N handlebar
Some 22mm risers are on the way.
£102 so far :D
Owenski
19-11-12, 02:53 PM
I've made some horrific purchases (gimmi a min and I'll copy in the figures from excel).
I fudged up though, in my head before even seeing the bike I thought "I'll need one those one of those one of those and one of those" Turns out half the stuff I've bought I don't need and the other bits I could have found other much cheaper ways of resolving. :(
punyXpress
19-11-12, 02:55 PM
£223.57 incl VAT from Robinsons?
Owenski
19-11-12, 03:05 PM
Figures:
Braided Lines - £43.75
LH & RH Switch Gear - £35 (only to find out the RH wont fit without alterations)
N wiring Loom - £29.99 (only to find the K8 has a different ECU I assume due to twin spark)
N Brake Res - £30
Naked Clutch Cable - £15
Naked Throttle Cable - £20 (now told I'll also need the N throttle housing)
Naked Headlight Brackets - £35.49
So thats £209.23... of which a large chunk is now useless to me. My own fault though, too eager to get it up and running ASAP.
I've then spent a further £270 on bearings, fluids and general sorting out of faults and another £130 on cosmetic things like the new headlight, brake levers. The only saving grace is that once done it'll be in mechanically sound condition and the yoke IS the only thing stopping me now.
ouch. I'm not going fully naked. Just doing the bars. Hopefully with all the research I'll have not wasted anything.
Maybe you'll get lucky selling the wrong parts.
Need to keep my bike ridable mid week for work. So I plan to spend one weekend attaching the risers.
Not sure if I can get away with doing the longer brake lines the following, might be too long without doing the rest of the job.
Owenski
19-11-12, 03:18 PM
If thats the case I'd be doing the risers last.
I'd fit the longer cables and lines.
Then the switch gears.
Then finally fit the raised bars and slot everything onto there. Other wise you risk forcing your self to rush the brake lines/throttle cables which on a frosty morning if they're not working 100% could cause problems.
Wouldn't having a lot of excess on the lines cause problems with steering?
Owenski
19-11-12, 03:33 PM
Not as much as not having enough slack ;)
Not as much as not having enough slack ;)
:D
Just to clear up, I was planning on mounting the risers to the yoke but leaving the clipons in place, without the bars, until the following weekend when I could get the rest done :D
Owenski
19-11-12, 03:48 PM
ahhhhh rite I get ya, you just going to have the risers poking up :) fair do's
If you are keeping the fairing with your bar conversion you will need to get some GSF650s mirrors or you will not be able to see anything behind you. I used a DL clutch cable but if remember rightly I had to route it differently to stop it fouling. Best mod ever though, I'll never go back to clip ons.
yorkie_chris
20-11-12, 10:01 AM
I have done a few yokes like that, just fill back of yoke with some plates to spread load and bolt clocks to.
If you are keeping the fairing with your bar conversion you will need to get some GSF650s mirrors or you will not be able to see anything behind you. I used a DL clutch cable but if remember rightly I had to route it differently to stop it fouling. Best mod ever though, I'll never go back to clip ons.
No different to now then.
Seems this is a common mod, does anyone make the infills to I don't have to?
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