Curvy SV650 won't start.

[liam111]

Evening y'all,
Right, I've had my Sv for around 4 months, been out on it daily and nothing's been wrong with it. Come to start it yesterday morning and nothing..:mad: I've had a look at it, everything works! Lights indicator etc.. It also bumps? But it doesn't start off the electric start button.. The first thing I had checked was the fuel and to make sure the kill switch was off! All the wires are fine and have been given a clean with some electrical cleaner. The battery is charged and the regulator and fuses are also fine. It's a 2000 Sv special.
Need opinions on what you guys thinks wrong!
Thanks
Liam :cool:

[TCochrane]

Haven't the foggiest mate but that is one gorgeous SV! Nice to see other people rocking the orange / copperish colour scheme ;)
Welcome to the forum!

[liam111]

Ah well, looking to get a different set of lights for the front of the Sv (Speed Triple lights)
Love your Sv aswell. What make exhaust?
Thanks!

[TCochrane]

Triple lights would look pretty cool, make sure you get the flyscreen with it though, looks bare without it. Plus a bellypan wouldn't go amiss ;)
Its a Lazer X-treme GP style exhaust off of a gixer, got it off a fellow 'orger

[liam111]

Aye, definatley getting a screen for it aswell! Been looking for a belly pan for quite a while now, want one which is a similar colour to mine!

[TCochrane]

You could get any old coloured belly pan and ask Phil_24_7 to spray it in your colour if you want? He has a spray booth or something and colour matched my lower fairings perfectly to my bike. You'd never know they were originally blue haha

[Fallout]

Have a look at your clutch ignition switch. Ya know, the switch that gets pushed on the handle bar when you pull the clutch in. That my only thought at this time!

[Sid Squid]

Does it turn over but not start, or does it do nothing when you press the button?

There is no hope of getting a realistic diagnosis without providing better information, any suggestions anyone could give you thus far is just guessing.

[liam111]

Does it turn over but not start, or does it do nothing when you press the button?

There is no hope of getting a realistic diagnosis without providing better information, any suggestions anyone could give you thus far is just guessing.


Nope nothing turns over when you press the button, it feels like there is literally nothing behind there. Feels like a dudd button [-(

[Terah]

Have you checked all the wiring? I've just had the same problem and it turned out to be a loose connection in the loom just to the right of the air box.

[liam111]

Have you checked all the wiring? I've just had the same problem and it turned out to be a loose connection in the loom just to the right of the air box.

Shall have to check that when I get home, got to buy a Haynes book! Hopefully I'm not Going to be the only person this has happened to! But I shall check the wiring! Do you remember what colour wire it was?

[a_monkey_hint]

I had the same symptoms, it was the cable attached to the clutch lever that had come out.

[Sid Squid]

Does the neutral light work correctly? Clutch switch connected?
Is the solenoid operating? That is, do you hear a click from behind the right hand side panel when you press the button? If no, then backprobe the live connection straight off the battery supply wire to check the solenoid works, if it works like that but not under normal operation then check the negative connection is good, then the clutch switch, you can bypass it if unsure it's working.
Then check the button itself, the return spring is part of the current path on some models and it's not unknown for it or the track it sits on to get corroded.
Starter lockout relay is very reliable and unlikely to be the trouble with the possible exception of the wiring and connections, but that's true of the whole bike of course.

[liam111]

Does the neutral light work correctly? Clutch switch connected?
Is the solenoid operating? That is, do you hear a click from behind the right hand side panel when you press the button? If no, then backprobe the live connection straight off the battery supply wire to check the solenoid works, if it works like that but not under normal operation then check the negative connection is good, then the clutch switch, you can bypass it if unsure it's working.
Then check the button itself, the return spring is part of the current path on some models and it's not unknown for it or the track it sits on to get corroded.
Starter lockout relay is very reliable and unlikely to be the trouble with the possible exception of the wiring and connections, but that's true of the whole bike of course.

yes the neutral light works fine, and the clutch switch is connected, i dont hear a click when i press the electric start button.all the fuses are fine and none are blown.
I some how reckon its going to be the button (the spring) i presume the spring is behind the button, i cant figure out how to get actually to the button? I can get the top half of the unit apart which holds the killswitch and the lights switch. but i cant get the bottom half off.. HELP! :help::help::help:

[Biker Biggles]

Before you take the starter button apart have you tried bypassing the clutch switch?Its a very simple check and can save a lot of time if that is what is causing the issue.

[yorkie_chris]

Most commonly, clutch switch.

If it was relay/neutral/sidestand cutout relay rubbish then it wouldn't bump start either.

[Grant66]

When mine did this, it turned out to be the starter switch. Before that I shorted the clutch switch with a paper clip to check it wasn't that. IIRC the RH switch assembly came apart easily following Haynes manual method, although I think you have to take the throttle cable off to get at a screw.

[liam111]

Most commonly, clutch switch.

If it was relay/neutral/sidestand cutout relay rubbish then it wouldn't bump start either.

Where does the clutch switch lead too?

[yorkie_chris]

The way of things:

Battery +ve
Ignition switch (via starter relay and main fuse)
Fuse box
Sidestand cutout relay
RHS switchgear
Kill switch (must be on... power branches off to power coils and ECU here)***
Starter button

Back to loom
Up to LHS switch gear
Clutch switch
Then back down loom to starter relay where it fires the relay and causes the bike to crank


***
Your fault finding up to this point is done, because it successfully bump starts

[liam111]

The way of things:

Battery +ve
Ignition switch (via starter relay and main fuse)
Fuse box
Sidestand cutout relay
RHS switchgear
Kill switch (must be on... power branches off to power coils and ECU here)***
Starter button

Back to loom
Up to LHS switch gear
Clutch switch
Then back down loom to starter relay where it fires the relay and causes the bike to crank


***
Your fault finding up to this point is done, because it successfully bump starts

The only problem I'm Having now is, how do I get the throttle cable to unhook from the plastic housing? I just want to see if the spring is corroded behind the starter button, fingers crossed that's the problem!

[yorkie_chris]

Why not just check it with a multimeter or test light at the connector?

If the spring is corroded it doesn't say much, there are little copper pads inside that actually make contact.

Take cable off at carb end, that gives you slack to get cables off.

[liam111]

Why not just check it with a multimeter or test light at the connector?

If the spring is corroded it doesn't say much, there are little copper pads inside that actually make contact.

Take cable off at carb end, that gives you slack to get cables off.

Shall do that in the morning! sick an tired of not being able to ride even though its winter! :smt019