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joshwalker094
27-01-13, 09:29 PM
someone sell me a 1.2 renault clio pleaseeeeeeeee up tp £800 ish

Wideboy
27-01-13, 09:30 PM
why? why on earth? for god sake why?!

NTECUK
27-01-13, 09:33 PM
why? why on earth? for god sake why?!
http://www.designofsignage.com/application/symbol/hands/image/600x600/hand-point-up-2.jpg

andrewsmith
27-01-13, 09:33 PM
why? why on earth? for god sake why?!

this

Fallout
27-01-13, 09:34 PM
Buying a French car for £800 is not a wise move!

Wildkid
27-01-13, 09:35 PM
Buying a french car in general is not a good move!

DJ123
27-01-13, 09:35 PM
I'll sell you one;
Red, one careful owner, '05 plate, low miles, full service history £650







http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B00005BRIQ.01.LZZZZZZZ.jpg

Specialone
27-01-13, 09:38 PM
Buying a French car is not a wise move!

Fixed for ya dude :)

joshwalker094
27-01-13, 10:25 PM
And what am I supposed to buy that is a 1.2 cheapest for insurance can tow my tools around ?

MisterTommyH
27-01-13, 10:32 PM
Fiesta

Biker Biggles
27-01-13, 10:34 PM
Micra

joshwalker094
27-01-13, 10:36 PM
Fiesta

For what I can get, nearly an extra £700 than the clio


And no micra! Ugly. I do have to drive to college in this when its pishing it down

andrewsmith
27-01-13, 10:39 PM
Old Honda civic
Rover 25/ mg zs

sent from a phone

punyXpress
27-01-13, 10:40 PM
For what I can get, nearly an extra £700 than the clio


And no micra! Ugly. I do have to drive to college in this when its pishing it down

He didn't sat get a convertible with a missing hood!

Wideboy
27-01-13, 10:42 PM
Anything but a french car. Even a corsa would be better.

I had a diesel 106, good on fuel, Naff electrics. I had it 6 months before selling it from being fed up of fixing the damn thing. That was an M reg with 56k on the clock.

At the same time my dad had a 307 HDi. Same thing ****ty electrics.

Partner van (was cheap). New steering rack, Injectors, clutch and front shocks... TBF that was sold at 110k

Helen has a 206 with 40k on the clock and I loath the thing, Whole exhaust was rotten and needed a sheet load of welding done on it, just had a new battery (TBF not the cars fault), has an ignition fault so it occasionally bunnyhops under enging load, shocks need work and lot of niggely **** wrong with it.... i got it through its MOT though.

so yes french cars a ****.

buy german or jap

Wideboy
27-01-13, 10:43 PM
Old Honda civic
Rover 25/ mg zs

sent from a phone


are you mad?

21QUEST
27-01-13, 10:44 PM
I'm on my second Peugeot 106 1.5 Diesel .

This one(a 1997) cost me £450(really splashed out this time :p)..possibly a bit less than that.

It's been through two MOTs and has only cost me a clutch cable[1] and usual service items.

Almost a 100K miles and still returns 55mpg to 70mpg.

Mistake folks make when buying a cheapish small car is to get one with all the bells and whistles. That means, no crap like electric windows, no power steering ...

Unfortunately, this one has an airbag :rolleyes:

NTECUK
27-01-13, 10:49 PM
K11 Micra.
real easy to work on check chain noise with a cold engine.
if you can find one with a naff air flow meter .
if you can solder easy fix.
sod its looks . not that bad anyway .

Wideboy
27-01-13, 10:55 PM
K11 Micra.
i seem to remember that being voted the most reliable small car? from when i drove small cars.

but i see where josh is coming from, they're not exactly shaggin wagons.

I used to ride to college in the rain rather than take my 106 as i felt ghey driving it.

then came my awesome babe magnet astra and all was solved

NTECUK
27-01-13, 10:56 PM
i seem to remember that being voted the most reliable small car? from when i drove small cars.

but i see where josh is coming from, they're not exactly shaggin wagons.

Girls love them .

Biker Biggles
27-01-13, 11:04 PM
You aint got the dosh for a real nice car with pulling power so best not to make a fool of yourself by buying a poor relation and pretending its something its not.Go for grunge and get a reliable Micra.Stick to two wheels for proper road performance.

L3nny
27-01-13, 11:05 PM
The size of the car doesn't necessarily reflect the cost of the insurance. I remember when I was 17 I had a 1.0 205 and my mate had a 1.6 Belmont and the insurance was about the same. Mine struggled to do 80, his would cruise at 120 all day.

21QUEST
27-01-13, 11:12 PM
My previous positive post aside, both the Peugeot 106s I've owned and the Peugeot 306 owned by my sister, had/have 'free added character' as standard....so yep, the guys do have a point indeed :D

andrewsmith
28-01-13, 04:55 AM
It's a bad civic underneath.
Anyways another suggestion: punto, panda, seat Ibiza

sent from a phone

timwilky
28-01-13, 06:35 AM
Josh

Don't let them get to you. the wife has a 53 plate 1.2 16v clio I bought at auction for £1600 3 years ago with 70,000 on it.

In those 3 years, I have had to :-

Replace 1 ABS reluctor ring cost about £3, Renault would sell me a new drive shaft.
Replace 1 suspension stabiliser link again £3.
Remove and refit sun roof at the cost of 2 tubes of silicon seal again about £3.

Then one proper service when I bought it :-
timing belt, water pump, oil/filters, plugs front brake pads about £90.

Two front tyres £70

So in 3 years use you are looking at £170 in expense and 3 MOTs. Not quit the disaster they tell you. Oh and it has plastic front wing so take the odd knock

Wideboy
28-01-13, 07:45 AM
But in all fairness if you hadn't fixed that yourself, all of that would have cost you a small fortune.

I can say my 1.4 astra was a reliable car but I owned it from 60k to 100k and in that time it had a new head gasket, water pump, cam belt, cam pulleys, cam tensioner, radiator as well as the services.

The car was reliable in the sense that it didn't leave me stranded anywhere but truth is if I hadn't fixed all that myself it would have cost a bomb.

yorkie_chris
28-01-13, 07:53 AM
For what I can get, nearly an extra £700 than the clio


And no micra! Ugly. I do have to drive to college in this when its pishing it down

Don't be a f*cking tart.

They are also bombproof, have very few vices and not many rot-spots.

Which is more than can be said for a frog rot-box of unreliability sent from hell.


If you want a frog motor find an old 205D pug...

yorkie_chris
28-01-13, 07:58 AM
If you are wanting to move tools around I would look at some of the less desireable "spacker wagon" type cars like berlingos and stuff like that, you may be pleasantly surprised on insurance (or not!) as they're all driven by old people and you can lug loads of stuff in one.


Rover 25/ mg zs


are you mad?

Clearly, yes.

Andrew are you just listing off every car ever made that's smaller than a defender 110?

The MG would be a stupid insurance price and every rover K engine ever made, ever, is a head gasket destroying, overheating, valve guide loosening bag of SH*TE and you'd be better with a rescue pony and a cart with square wheels.

Fallout
28-01-13, 08:38 AM
But in all fairness if you hadn't fixed that yourself, all of that would have cost you a small fortune.

I can say my 1.4 astra was a reliable car but I owned it from 60k to 100k and in that time it had a new head gasket, water pump, cam belt, cam pulleys, cam tensioner, radiator as well as the services.

The car was reliable in the sense that it didn't leave me stranded anywhere but truth is if I hadn't fixed all that myself it would have cost a bomb.


If would actually say Vauxhall are as bad as Renault. I've had an old Corsa (60k miles) which drank coolant and was cooking a plug on one cylinder. There was a reason why it only cost £400 and I sold it for the same. :rolleyes: Also had an Astra with engine management lights for EGR and some sort of other engine sensor (can't remember) and head gasket went. Again about 60-70k miles! ALSO, I have a mate who always buys Vauxhall (most recently brand new VXR) and they always fail. His VXR gearbox is on the way out after 30k miles! :rolleyes:

On top of that, the Corsa is without doubt the worst handling car I have ever driven. Shocking piece of rubbish. At least Clios have reasonable handling. I still would agree with Micra, Civic, Ibiza (+1 - German parts I assume if it's like the leon), then KA/Fiesta.

Spank86
28-01-13, 09:08 AM
One of my old roommates had his head gasket go on his corsa too. I'd never buy vauxhall after the various experiences, especially wills ones with rubbish warranty work.

I'd always go Kraut or Jap.

tonyt
28-01-13, 09:24 AM
What you need is a FORD.... either Fiesta or Focus.. !!

Wideboy
28-01-13, 09:33 AM
I have driven the new corsa. Gutless, uneconomical, plastic piece of ****.

And apparently that was an SRi

joshwalker094
28-01-13, 10:32 AM
It's insurance prices that are off putting for anything over a 1.2, tried them for fiesta to berlingos to corsas ect ect... And a 1.2 clio is the best price, I will have to get a towbar fitted, only got pull about 300kg tops.
Then I'll be going Cornwall in it :D

Purity14
28-01-13, 10:49 AM
i've got a 2000 W reg honda civic 1.4 in silver.
It will go forever, on 110,000 at the moment, another 100,000 to go :)

Let me know if you are interested, £650 and its yours with 6 months tax/mot.
£750 and ill put 12 months t/m on it for you :)

oh and the cambelt was done 15k ago :)

dirtydog
28-01-13, 11:02 AM
Fiestas are fairly cheap to run and if you shop around can be got for cheap as well. 3 years ago the step daughter took a punt on a R reg fiesta 1.25 it had 1 day MOT and a week of tax left on it for £400. I put a new set of discs and pads on the front and it flew through its MOT. Unfortunately she kept putting off getting the cambelt changed and it snapped, decided she wanted a newer fiesta and sold the broken one for over £300!
Replacement fiesta was a W reg 1.25, cost £620 and the only things that have needed to be done are tyres, couple of brake hoses, a heater valve and a brake cylinder.

Mark_h
28-01-13, 11:14 AM
We've had an old Scenic for years. Gets through ignition coils about once every two years but they come off with the spark plugs so dead easy to fix. As with all cars some go pop, some don't. French cars seem to go for bling over quality but several million Frenchies can't all spend their time on the side of the road with busted cars so they can't all be that bad.

As with all "cheap" cars, make sure it's had a cam belt and some sort of regular servicing then take your chance.

I've also had a few BMWs over recent years and they get through MOT items like suspension mounts and bearings at exactly the same rate as the Scenic so I'm not convinced you can actually "buy" quality and longevity these days.

yorkie_chris
28-01-13, 11:50 AM
As with all "cheap" cars, make sure it's had a cam belt and some sort of regular servicing then take your chance.

Chain driven engines :smt023

rb8989
28-01-13, 12:12 PM
+1 on micras. My mum had two of the mk1s and one was "written off" whilst parked. Faultless cars and cheap to fix if ever you have to. My girlfriends sister also had a mk2 which had done 90k and it stood on a driveway for 3 years whilst she traveled. It then passed its mot with no advisories despite the alloy engine furring up a snow white! She vowed to drive it into the ground but a year on at 100k+ she's just sold it for £500 to buy a 307 because it just wont die. Think she paid £650 for it!

yorkie_chris
28-01-13, 12:15 PM
There's good reason loads of takeaway delivery places use them.

Mark_h
28-01-13, 12:20 PM
Chain driven engines :smt023
In which case make sure your chain tensioner is a good-un. Mate with Passat which seems to have a chain AND a belt ended up spending a fortune when a tensioner stopped tensioning.

chris8886
28-01-13, 12:27 PM
Rover 25/ mg zs[QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Wideboy;2823650]are you mad?

he must be! lol. i had one after my first car (B reg nissan cherry)! i got it cos it looked nice, had a cd player (the cherry didn't even have FM radio, let alone a tape player it was so old!!), electric sunroof, part leather seats, power stearing n a few other bits. i loved it other than when the head gasket blew (because i kept ragging the damn thing) after a while. i got it repaired cos my uncle was a mechanic so it didn't cost me too much, but i can safely say i wouldn't recomend these cars. i then sold it when i got the sv and the insurance ran out.

The MG would be a stupid insurance price and every rover K engine ever made, ever, is a head gasket destroying, overheating, valve guide loosening bag of SH*TE and you'd be better with a rescue pony and a cart with square wheels.

i agree with the 'rover engine' comment for the reasons stated above!

fizzwheel
28-01-13, 01:08 PM
someone sell me a 1.2 renault clio pleaseeeeeeeee up tp £800 ish

I've read the whole thread, if it must be a Clio, there are loads on Auto Trader at the moment.

However I think you could do better for your money, if insurance is the problem the you need to go left field and avoid all the popular small hatches.

yorkie_chris
28-01-13, 01:14 PM
And it will always be expensive

fizzwheel
28-01-13, 01:17 PM
And it will always be expensive

Yep. Something is fundamentally wrong when the insurance premium for a young driver is

1. More than the Value of the car
2. The punishment / fine for driving with no insurance is significantly less than the value of the insurance premium.

yorkie_chris
28-01-13, 01:39 PM
So long as you only get caught twice a year you're still ahead...

Just get some dodgy tw*t in Bradford to pop the car reg on a trader/fleet policy for you so it doesn't flag up on ANPR and you're fine!

andrewsmith
28-01-13, 01:46 PM
Clearly, yes.

Andrew are you just listing off every car ever made that's smaller than a defender 110?

The MG would be a stupid insurance price and every rover K engine ever made, ever, is a head gasket destroying, overheating, valve guide loosening bag of SH*TE and you'd be better with a rescue pony and a cart with square wheels.

There is far worse motors and gearboxes now than the K series- See below

I have driven the new corsa. Gutless, uneconomical, plastic piece of ****.

And apparently that was an SRi

Ecotec motors are crap!! Old mans was needing a new clutch at 50k had to be driven like a 2 stroke to get anywhere. And like a drink if they don't get a good few motorway runs a month 1 litre every 1000 miles and thats in tolerance for the engine (glazed bores) :scratch:
The modern vauxhall automatics are dire (Insignia SRI auto, was bloody comical being passenger in that car; 1,2,3,4 rapidly, tap your foot a bit more 4th to 2nd and still go nowhere)

yorkie_chris
28-01-13, 01:50 PM
There is far worse motors and gearboxes now than the K series- See below

Yeah but lets be fair you've got to look pretty f***ing hard to find one!

Yes the new vauxhalls are crap but ye olde astra G (actually within his budget rather than looking at new cars for no reason...) was alright. Find one with the isuzu engine and you're laughing.

You'd still have to be a complete spastic to buy a rover.


Regarding ecotec engines I would rather suggest 50k miles on a clutch is more likely driving habits than the engine. (though I agree, they are revvier than you should need to), as my mate is now on his second ecotec astra with 100+k on clutch. First one did 150k and was written off.

L3nny
28-01-13, 02:39 PM
What about something like this (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1999-PEUGEOT-306-LX-D-RED-60mpg-px-swap-car-van-bike-/281056478179?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item41704583e3)

I used to have one, non turbo diesel, drove like a tractor but went on for ever, sold it to my mate who ran it on chip fat for a couple of years.

I got it when i was 26, and I think the insurance was less than £150 a year.

That listing is a bit expensive, I wouldn't pay more than £600

yorkie_chris
28-01-13, 02:40 PM
Yep those XUD engines are great for running on odd fuel. Just watch out for the front seal on the injector pump if you use biodiesel.

Bluefish
28-01-13, 06:38 PM
If it had to be a froggy then pug's are the best, but i used to have an old cavalier i got for about 600 quid back in the day, 20,000 miles a year needed a tyre, then off to scrappy and get a wheel for a fiver or tenner, i did have to fork out about 30 quid for a suspension arm after about a year though :D

disco2
28-01-13, 07:35 PM
I got a 206 hdi on a 53 plate its done over 130tho on the clock needed a tyre for the last mot and I put a new bat on it about 6 months ago the service spanner has been up on the dash for over 3500 miles (I will service it at some point) it runs on air well nearly the thing is a 1.4 estate and has been one of the most reliable cars I have ever had and its loaded leccy windows, air con, air bags the thing is great.

Only paid £1300 for it in my experience French cars are spot on (only one I have had mind).

Dave20046
28-01-13, 07:37 PM
Citroen saxo £300

Biker Biggles
28-01-13, 08:51 PM
Citroen saxo £300

Citroens are just Peugeots,but built by people with psychiatric disorders.](*,)

Dave20046
28-01-13, 09:16 PM
yeah, I didn't feel any more detail was needed!

orose
28-01-13, 09:55 PM
That pug diesel might be a good shout - if it's anything like the 205 lump (which it looks like it may be - the Turbo is a 2 litre) then it'll last for ever. My dad got rid of his a few years ago with just short of 200k on the clock, and the new owner put a fresh MOT on it, drove it for a year and then sold it on for more than he paid.

Replaced it with a 306 TD, and that doesn't even feel worn at 110k.

NTECUK
28-01-13, 10:17 PM
Saxo are chav cars with high insurance.
do you still want a clio .
will a W plate 82k 1.2 mtv 1years Mot do.

joshwalker094
28-01-13, 11:46 PM
Bit far away ntec.

Found this http://bit.ly/124ouKY
Going to view/buy Wednesday evening, 100 mile to pick it up 1k

rb8989
29-01-13, 12:23 AM
"103777 CAREFUL MILES"

Living on the edge or what!

joshwalker094
29-01-13, 12:34 AM
Hahaha. I know. I was on the phone to him before, sounds well looked after and a genuine geezer

Edit*
Two woman drivers, now how can that be careful?! More like thrashed haha. I'll look after it but it won't have an easy life

BanannaMan
29-01-13, 05:31 AM
I have an Isuzu in excellent condition I'll sell you .
(other than a blown headgasket)
Pay no attention to the fine print. It's really a great deal!
(for me if you buy it)

;)

Wideboy
29-01-13, 07:40 AM
Two woman drivers, now how can that be careful?! More like thrashed haha. I'll look after it but it won't have an easy life oldest blag in the book.

Am I the only one who thinks buying a small engined high millage car is a bad idea? Josh try to remember, smaller engined cars usually go through more stress than big engined cars simply because they get ragged just to keep up with the rest of the traffic. I'd be looking more at 70k not 100k

Oh and trust no one
I have an Isuzu in excellent condition I'll sell you .
(other than a blown headgasket)
Pay no attention to the fine print. It's really a great deal!
(for me if you buy it)

;)

Can you post?

yorkie_chris
29-01-13, 07:48 AM
Engines are usually alright if serviced. It's catastrophes or electronics that break modern stuff not wear.

I'd be asking them what they've been towing and when was the last time it had a clutch.

Fallout
29-01-13, 07:58 AM
Josh, are you taking anyone with you who knows what they're looking at, or are you just going to pick it up by yourself?

As Gav has said, don't listen to the "two lady owners" rubbish. Shoot him down if he mentions it for bartering leverage. Also ignore the nice shiny plastic in the engine bay. It makes it look nice and instinctively makes you feel better about the engine but it means nothing! :rolleyes:

yorkie_chris
29-01-13, 07:59 AM
20 seconds with a steam cleaner and a squirt of WD and a rag...

joshwalker094
29-01-13, 08:05 AM
Well me and my dad are going down on the sv, so he can drive it back, between us we know a little, a friend it giving me a checklist who has been trading and selling for the last 20/30 years.
I'll ask him today when it last had the clutch done.
I already knocked him down from £1200 to £1000

yorkie_chris
29-01-13, 08:17 AM
Yeah, when I want to get rid of some sh*gged out snotter the first thing I do is steam clean the engine bay so it's a bit shiny, give the panels all a wipe down with something oily so they'll look nice (for 3 days).

Then the real trick is to advertise it for £300 more than you actually want so whichever f***er buys it will be too busy congratulating themselves on having better negotiating skills than Count Bismarck himself to notice that ticking from engine/gopping rust hole in chassis/brake pipes all missing etc. Oh and obviously don't forget that many people will swallow the "owned by my gran for 52 years to go 4 yards to the shop and back" when you're trying to peddle a f***ed land rover with a towbar and horsey stickers on it...


You don't sound like you've bought vehicles before. DO NOT get shiny shiny vision.*

I would even go so far as to say do not buy at a distance, the extra time involved gives more pressure to come away having bought something even if you get home and think "why the hell did I do it?!"


*I'm wasting my keyboard wear, you will anyway.

timwilky
29-01-13, 09:45 AM
Josh

When was the timing belt changed and was it a full change, ie water pump and tensioner pully. It is about 2 hours work if you know what you are doing but fatal to the engine if not done and it lets go. I think the interval is about 75,000 and/or 5 years.


At that mileage you need to be checking brake pads/disks on the front. You cannot check the rear shoes but if you do buy, get the drums off. Also check carefully the steering suspension. They are not expensive repairs, but lower ball joints, stabiliser links etc. give it a test drive and listen for any bearing grumbles

The electronics are generally what can kill these. There should be a metal capped control box behind the engine. Look for signs of grollying of the cap by somebody who doesn't know the secret of removing (hidden catch arrangement) This would indicate electrical woes.

Has it got the factory sunroof? feel round the head lining for damp. It is not difficult to refit/seal. Just another of those jobs Renault did not get right.

Oh and if you do buy, you will need a special socket for the spark plugs, they are buried deep in the head and need a long thin wall socket.

Fallout
29-01-13, 09:50 AM
YC is speaking the truth. I have a bad tendency to buy vehicles it's taken some effort to go and see. When you're talking hundreds of pounds, the tens of pounds spent going to and from need to be factored in, and you feel pressured into buying. Effort plays a part too.

As YC said you've obviously already bought it in your heart, so good luck with it. It could well be fine. :)

joshwalker094
29-01-13, 12:41 PM
Right,
Well I've got to ring him later on and arrange viewing picking it up.
What should I ask him?

Thanks for the comments guys, I will be more than happy to walk away if its not what it is, I've had to stretch my budget for this one. I'll be taking my torch and will have no problem getting on the floor and checking underneath it.

Thanks
Josh

fizzwheel
29-01-13, 12:49 PM
2 rules my dad gave me when looking at cars.

1. Never buy the first one you see
2. Never look at a car when its wet or in the dark, it masks the condition of the bodywork.

Fallout
29-01-13, 01:12 PM
These are the ones I know in my moderate experience:
- Brakes. A big lip on the disc means they're on their way out. Check the pads.
- Tyres for tread and uneven wear and make sure the patterns match.
- CV boots/gaitors. See if they're crumbling or any leaking.
- Struts suspension. Check for rust and general condition.
- Rust under wheel arches etc.
- Grab the wheels and tug on them as hard as you can may help you detect play in wheel bearings.
- Check oil cap and dipstick for cheese or signs of overheating
- Check radiator cap if you can for signs of healthy coolant
- Make sure coolant reservoir is full, though anyone with a brain will top this up. Low could be bad
- See if the belts are in good condition. Any fraying or similar is a big no no.
- Check all the electrics. Be systematic. Every window, every light. Heated rear window etc.
- Check the radio works properly. Sometimes an old good headunit comes out and a ****ty one is put in it's place and not wired in properly. Cue a lot of effort rewiring it all.
- Check exhaust for corrosion. It will be rusty but if it's really rusty then it'll need to be changed soon.
- Check trackrods if you can. On many old cars they'll be too corroded for you to undo them, so wheel alignment might not be possible without replacing them.
- Check for chips in windscreen which could be MOT failures.
- Check the fuel cap works. Sometimes they actuator fails or mechanism is otherwise messed up (pain in the ****!)

You have to have a test drive. If he's already warmed it up for you then he's covering up some faults. They could be minor. It's up to you to decide. So put your hand on the engine to see if it's cold before you start it.
- Check for how high the clutch is
- Listen for grumbles which could be wheel bearings
- Check the handbrake isn't too loose
- Check gearbox for problems. It will be a bit notchy with 100k miles, but you should still be able to change gear. A bit more notchiness going into 2nd is normal as that's the ragged gear, but you shouldn't have to force it in. If the car is already warm and it's quite notchy into 2nd that it could be quite difficult to get 2nd when it's cold.
- Check for smoke when driving
- Make sure engine returns to idle quickly after revving it
- Listen for knocking

That's all I can think of right now. There's so much it's hard to be thorough and remember everything but if anything bothers you at all just walk away. Consider this one a base line of what a clio is like if you dont buy it.

Wideboy
29-01-13, 01:25 PM
If you checking with a torch go all over the head and check for oil residue or pooling water, underneath check the sump isn't covered In oil or there's oil running down the sides of the motor.

Sounds obvious but its hard to spot sometimes plus alot of crooks will have a quick wipe around whilst you're on you way and shuv rage where the the weeping is and remove it either when you're distracted by shininess or before you get there.

Also if it's warm be skeptical as to why. Do full lock to lock on the steering and listen for whining from the pump.

And like gheyboy fallout said walk away if your not happy. Don't let them bull**** you or distract you when you're looking over bits

joshwalker094
29-01-13, 03:39 PM
choices that nice silver one,
or this one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/renault-clio-/261161201909?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3cce6bb0f5

and thanks for the advice

Tomor
29-01-13, 03:50 PM
I wouldn't go for the second as the guy cannot spell for sh*t!!

yorkie_chris
29-01-13, 03:52 PM
However it's had a recent clutch and stuff, I'd look when the cambelt was done. And be careful about checking for MOT points as it's only a short test on it.

which is closer to home?

joshwalker094
29-01-13, 04:05 PM
second one chris.
what questions should i ask the silver car one tonight when i call?

yorkie_chris
29-01-13, 04:06 PM
History of clutch and cambelt changes. See receipts.

Everything else is bollox because it will be lies :)

joshwalker094
29-01-13, 04:14 PM
He just messaged me
' just given it a wash and checked all levels for you ----- ready to go'

when i ring i shall find out chris, i know he said he has the stamps for the cambelt and major service

NTECUK
29-01-13, 04:37 PM
stamp does not mean a whole lot.
receipt are better . genuine not one off your pc
ie vat number.

Fallout
29-01-13, 05:02 PM
Stamp means nothing because there's no such thing. Generally they stamp the book and put a tick in a box for what was done. Any plum can go into their service book and find a matching biro colour and tick the box. The receipt is the only reliable proof.

joshwalker094
29-01-13, 08:51 PM
after a quick chat, towing hay bayles only, cam belt and alternator belt done at the same time at the major service not many miles ago, for the mot one of the ball joints and something else was done. coil pack has been replaced not sure when. sounds very genuine, i usually am good at judging characters

rb8989
30-01-13, 01:41 AM
Yeah, when I want to get rid of some sh*gged out snotter the first thing I do is steam clean the engine bay so it's a bit shiny, give the panels all a wipe down with something oily so they'll look nice (for 3 days).

Then the real trick is to advertise it for £300 more than you actually want so whichever f***er buys it will be too busy congratulating themselves on having better negotiating skills than Count Bismarck himself to notice that ticking from engine/gopping rust hole in chassis/brake pipes all missing etc. Oh and obviously don't forget that many people will swallow the "owned by my gran for 52 years to go 4 yards to the shop and back" when you're trying to peddle a f***ed land rover with a towbar and horsey stickers on it...


You don't sound like you've bought vehicles before. DO NOT get shiny shiny vision.*

I would even go so far as to say do not buy at a distance, the extra time involved gives more pressure to come away having bought something even if you get home and think "why the hell did I do it?!"


*I'm wasting my keyboard wear, you will anyway.

Sheer comedy gold, yet so true.

BanannaMan
30-01-13, 06:02 AM
Can you post?


I am ready to push the barsteward into the sea, I'll try to point it in your direction.

Wildkid
30-01-13, 07:04 AM
Yeah, when I want to get rid of some sh*gged out snotter the first thing I do is steam clean the engine bay so it's a bit shiny, give the panels all a wipe down with something oily so they'll look nice (for 3 days).

Then the real trick is to advertise it for £300 more than you actually want so whichever f***er buys it will be too busy congratulating themselves on having better negotiating skills than Count Bismarck himself to notice that ticking from engine/gopping rust hole in chassis/brake pipes all missing etc. Oh and obviously don't forget that many people will swallow the "owned by my gran for 52 years to go 4 yards to the shop and back" when you're trying to peddle a f***ed land rover with a towbar and horsey stickers on it...


You don't sound like you've bought vehicles before. DO NOT get shiny shiny vision.*

I would even go so far as to say do not buy at a distance, the extra time involved gives more pressure to come away having bought something even if you get home and think "why the hell did I do it?!"


*I'm wasting my keyboard wear, you will anyway.

I actually love this!

Specialone
30-01-13, 07:57 AM
Stamp means nothing because there's no such thing. Generally they stamp the book and put a tick in a box for what was done. Any plum can go into their service book and find a matching biro colour and tick the box. The receipt is the only reliable proof.

Nope, main dealers don't leave the box blank, they put a cross in it to help prevent this.

Fallout
30-01-13, 08:52 AM
Ahhh, that sounds feasible. I've not taken a car to a main dealer in years. Independent garages probably care less about the log book.

Dave20046
30-01-13, 06:39 PM
Saxo are chav cars with high insurance.
do you still want a clio .
will a W plate 82k 1.2 mtv 1years Mot do.

you don't have to be a c0ck...

joshwalker094
30-01-13, 08:27 PM
Plenty of history and receipts. Lots of stamps, belt done less than a 1000 miles. Dad and are mechanic said it drives like a brand new car :D
I love it. Shame I failed my test again today :(

Fallout
30-01-13, 10:33 PM
Ahhhh ... schoolboy error Josh! You've doubled the pressure on yourself by shopping for cars and building excitement before passing your test.

To make passing easier you shouldn't shop for vehicles until you pass and don't tell anyone you're taking the test.

Spank86
30-01-13, 11:31 PM
Or do what I did and tell everyone the. Arrange to drive to Newbury the day after your test and the blitz it.