Plastering Advice..

[Stuuk1]

Hi all,

A quick questions for the builder types ;)

I have completely gutted my kitchen ready for me to fit the new one. I have removed all the old tiles which we stuck to the wall with this black stuff... Whatever it is, over the years it appears to have got on very well with the plaster and they didn't want to be parted! In other words, when removed them, it's taken off all of the plaster! Nightmare.

Anyway, underneath the plaster is cement, and under that breeze block. I have spent the whole day chipping the rest of the plaster off down to 900mm from the floor (top of new worktop) and up to the bottom of the cabinets (where the new tiling will go to). There are other places that need doing but ill work that out later. I have made it as flat as I possibly can..

My question is:

Can I tile straight on to the cement or do I need to plaster the wall to make it smoother and flatter, then tile on to the plaster?

If I can tile directly on to the cement then how do I treat the cement first? PVA/ water mix or water in emulsion or something else?

If I can't tiles directly on to the cement then how do I treat the wall before I try my hand at plastering? PVA/Water mix or water in emulsion or other?

Ok that's more than 1 question..

Any help would be great! I have googled it but its all professional talk and I don't understand it, I'm just a poor old sparky.

[Specialone]

So you had 'wet' plastered walls (browning base with skimmed top)? How thick is the plaster from block wall to finished level of plaster?

I would not tile onto the block / mortar directly.

Easiest way it to dab it out with new plasterboard, two thicknesses are available generally 3/8 and 1/2 inch.

Post some pics and I'll advise what to do next.

[disco2]

Hy mate,
Im not a plasterer chippy me well was for most of my working life.

Heres what I would do.
I would plaster straight on the cement as it should adhere with no problems.
When you plaster do as much as you can then wet in the whole area to smooth off.
If you do little area and try to wet it in it will go wrong trust me on that.....

Multi finish has treatments in it to help stop any nasty stuff coming thro so unless your wall has damp you should be fine.

If im wrong im sure I will be corrected.

[Stuuk1]

Well here is how it should look...

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a103/stuuk1/d9b0b57f76ffc3f3c290a639757845a0.jpg

But this is how it currently looks:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a103/stuuk1/09edc2ccea37efc04f6bc3defca8c72c.jpg

Here is the window side:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a103/stuuk1/113f75bb2078ffd6756021ac4c6272f9.jpg

And a slightly closer look:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a103/stuuk1/db9a4f3ec188336404c3bc4da880a339.jpg


I took these earlier, the plaster is now to a slightly lower down to the 900 level (orange line).

If I'm honest, and thank you for the suggestion but I'm trying to avoid the plasterboard part, its more money which I don't have even if the board is cheap.

I do however have a bag of cement, a bag of plaster, a bag of multi finish and a bag of bonding coat... The holes etc i can fill with bonding and then skim with plaster but should I PVA the wall first as I'm guessing the cement is pretty porous?

The existing is indeed a skim of about 3mm maximum although thicker in places. It's so annoying as the tiles in the bathroom came off easily with just a small piece of plaster coming away!

So, what I was thinking is if I fill in the old electrical goes with cement and allow them to dry (should is PVA in the boxes first?). And bond all other small holes etc.

Then, once dry, PVA everything, wait to dry, then wet the edges of the existing plaster and skim, hoping that the plaster moulds nicely?

After all the plaster won't be seen as it will all be tiled, I just don't want anything to crack and fall off..

I don't know if I'm even making any sense..

P.s. Feel free to comment on how good my pipework looks... Also there is a reason why I have added a second stop c*ck, its not some strange fetish..

[Specialone]

Mate, you're making the mistake most diy'ers make, scrimping on the preparation.

If you plaster this yourself, no offence but it will look ****.

Tiling needs a good flat base to end up a good standard.

I don't know what you mean by cement, but you can't plaster with cement, you render with cement based mixs.

If you really do persist on doing some yourself, use bonding coat and don't bother with multi finish skim, it's unnecessary as you won't get it anywhere near good enough.
Walls must be pva'd and use a big straight edge and shuffle it up the wall to keep it as flat as possible.

[Stuuk1]

Ok, good point.

I didn't mean to plaster with cement lol, I means to fill the holes with cement then plaster over the wall with plaster.

So if I were to board the walls, would you board the wall with the window, up to the window including the window sill with a metal edge or trim over the join?

Also would the board just need to be one board thick, not double boarded? And then tape the various joints, am I guess that its then fine to tile straight on to the board with no plastering required?

Questions questions questions, sorry!

[Stuuk1]

Actually seconds thoughts, the kitchen and dining room is one room, I would therefore only be able to boards the back wall which the cabinets fix to.

Perhaps ill just get a quote from a plasterer for that bit..

[MisterTommyH]

Plasterboard and dabs all the way...

You only need 1 layer - double boarding is generally either for sound, or fire. You just need it to get a decent surface.

[Specialone]

That's why I asked you the depth of existing plaster, most houses that have been wet plastered, have a plaster thickness of at least 12 mm so I was going to advise dabbing a 3/8 board on tight.

Just square off the existing plaster with a bolster then board up to it.

Or... Board the whole wall upto an edge or internal corner.

[dirtydog]

My opinion would be just get a plasterer in, do it properly, do it once.

[Specialone]

My opinion would be just get a plasterer in, do it properly, do it once.

Yep, providing the plasterer you get in is competent lol

[dirtydog]

Yep, providing the plasterer you get in is competent lol

My plasterer is very competent ;)

[Stuuk1]

To be honest I like to do this stuff and learn along the way even if that is from mistakes..

Boarding the entire wall means around sockets, switches, a huge patio door etc..That's the only internal edge, otherwise it would be ending at the last cabinet which would look pants.

Ill look in to this and shall let you all know!

[Specialone]

My plasterer is very competent ;)

I only use my plasterer for skimming, I prefer/do a better job at boarding etc :)