Curvy first impressions.

[Pricey12]

Well my bike arrived today and I managed to get a couple of hours riding in this afternoon. The bike is great to ride, excellent torque, and fantastic sound from the Viper can. One issue I had though is that the throttle is very snatchy, so much so that I stalled a couple of times pulling away from traffic lights. I hear this is a common trait on SV's though so perhaps I'll get used to it. The other issue I have is where the hell do you guys put your tax disc holder. On my previous bike, a Ducati Monster, there where a couple of bolts high up on the for legs that could be used, but as the SV is semi faired I can't put it there. I don't really want to put it at the bottom of the forks as it will get covered in road crud. The only other place I can find is on the exhaust hanger mount, but I'm not fond of putting a carbon fibre type holder in close proximety to the rear tyrel in case it gets hit by a stone off the road or something and shatters. Unlikely, but you never know. So basically, I'm stumped. Any suggestions?

[Kenzie]

Mine is on the end of the radiator attached by one of the bolts. You might find engine braking a bit different on a twin, try blipping the throttle on the down shift and it eases down better. Sounds cool too!

[MJC-DEV]

Tax disk on a chain guard bolt. V-twins are snatchy at low revs so best kept above 3000 rpm and slip the clutch as required (lots!)

[WeegieBlue]

My tax disc is attached to one of the rear footpeg brackets.

[maviczap]

Tax disk on a chain guard bolt.

Same on mine

[Runako]

My tax disc is attached to one of the rear footpeg brackets.

Here ... but I'll show you how I've 'creatively' attached mine ;)

Snatchiness - Someone will be along soon to with the correct info but I believe this can be cured for a curvy. Its to do with the TPS I believe.

The 'pointy' is FI & (2007 on?) Auto Idle so I've no problems pulling from 1.5K, don't need to slip clutch very much. But 1st can be quite rough, partly to do with gearing on the SV. I tend to short shift to 2nd as soon as I get going when in town.

[Grant66]

Its to do with the TPS I believe.


There is a TPS on a curvey? There was me thinking it was a cable opening a butterfly valve.

[DarrenSV650S]

My tax disc is on the left pillion footpeg bolt. Never had a pillion so don't need the pegs :D

[Runako]

There is a TPS on a curvey? There was me thinking it was a cable opening a butterfly valve.

There you go, I have no idea! Lol. Maybe I should just stick to pointy advice :compcrash:

[DarrenSV650S]

There you go, I have no idea! Lol. Maybe I should just stick to pointy advice :compcrash:

Oh man you really messed up that monitor. At least it was an old crt. Now you can replace it with a space saving modern flat panel. Should save some energy too

[jakesvmk1]

My tax disc is on the exhaust hanger bolt.

[Geodude]

Left hand fork lower (while sat on bike) where brake hose is p clipped on. My carbon 'type' tax holder has been there for years and hasn't been covered in road carp. :)

[Pricey12]

You might find engine braking a bit different on a twin, try blipping the throttle on the down shift and it eases down better. Sounds cool too!

I do find the the engine braking on the SV is a bit more severe that my Duc was, even though that was a twin, especially changing down from third to second. Will try blipping the throttle and see how I get on ;)

Snatchiness - Someone will be along soon to with the correct info but I believe this can be cured for a curvy. Its to do with the TPS I believe

I read somewhere it can be cured with some washers placed somewhere in the throttle assembly I think. Either way it's not really a dealbreaker, just a minor niggle.

Thanks for all the advice about the tax disc. Quite a few options there :)

[jambo]

There is a TPS on a curvey? There was me thinking it was a cable opening a butterfly valve.

There is a throttle position sensor on the curvy, it affects the ignition map and can make a difference to smoothness of throttle opening, the pointy has a cable opening the first set of butterfly valves too but then the ecu deals with the secondary valves as well as fuel and ignition map.

Snatchy throttle response could be anything from poor tps adjustment, poor chain adjustment, carbs out of balance, wrong mixture. Or it might just be a difference between this and your last bike :-)

Jambo
Sent from my thingie

[squirrel_hunter]

I keep my tax disc and holder in the kitchen.

And I doubt very much that your tax disc holder is actually carbon fiber, so don't worry about stones hitting it.

[Serdna]

I would put money on your carbs needing a balance. It really smooths slow riding on part throttle. Plenty of info on here how to do it cheaply. It depends what you want to do with your bike but a £50 kawasaki shock transforms them! Have fun!

[Pricey12]

I would put money on your carbs needing a balance. It really smooths slow riding on part throttle. Plenty of info on here how to do it cheaply. It depends what you want to do with your bike but a £50 kawasaki shock transforms them! Have fun!

Looking through the paperwork that came with the bike it looks like the carbs were last balanced in 2010 and she hasn't covered a huge amount of miles since. Will see how I get on with it for a while I think. I'm so used to riding Ducati Monsters that perhaps I need a bit of time to adjust to the SV. Will definitely consider swapping the rear shock at some point. It's on my list of future mods :)

[MJC-DEV]

IMO changing the shock should come after fitting fork cartridge emulators (unless its really had it), the forks are a lot worse than the shock. About £50 too for Debrix ones.

[Runako]

IMO changing the shock should come after fitting fork cartridge emulators (unless its really had it), the forks are a lot worse than the shock. About £50 too for Debrix ones.

Doesn't really matter. One will show up the other. Forks can be assuaged with stiffer oil short term. Shocks can't. Depending on how you ride, you'll be affected more by one or the other, so ideally change both if possible asap.

[MJC-DEV]

Doesn't really matter. One will show up the other. Forks can be assuaged with stiffer oil short term. Shocks can't. Depending on how you ride, you'll be affected more by one or the other, so ideally change both if possible asap.

Well as you say it all depends. I tried going from 10W to 15W fork oil and it was a nightmare (might work on super smooth roads). Fitting emulators transformed the handling while going from stock to Nitron didn't make anywhere near the same difference so it also depends on how knackered your running gear is. I speak from experience as the saying goes ;)

[Runako]

Completely agree, don't get me wrong. But the stock shock is utter garbage, especially for a heavier rider. 14st and the rear felt completely underdamped within 6k. Once the stock shock gets worse, its gone. It can't be re-spung, it can't be serviced. If you didn't feel an almighty change with the Nitron then you fall into that lucky bracket of "sprung adequately for you out of the box". Also remember its the oil viscosity (front). I changed to 20wt and it was terrible initially but as I tend to ride hard and for fun, by the time it warmed up it worked much better and certainly better than stock. I've had it from new so wouldn't say components are knackered, just not suited for anything other than commuting.