Curvy headlights not working

[a_monkey_hint]

My headlights stopped working a couple of weeks ago, fuses and bulbs are fine. Low beam and high beam not working. Sidelight works and turns off when switch is turned off.

Removed fairing, checked both connectors on both sides no visible damage to either, but doused in wd40 anyway. Checked them both with a multimeter and both appear to be ok.

Next step is to start running a separate cable from fuse box to bypass cabling.

Any other suggestions?

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[sev]

i would check your wiring and switches before bodging and bypassing the wiring loom.

[andrewsmith]

Firstly strip and clean the switch gears they take a hammering.
It was the cause of mine and its been fine since. Use ACF 50 after they are clean and it shouldn't happen again

[a_monkey_hint]

I kinda ruled out the switch gear since it was working for the sidelight. I'll strip it today!

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[andrewsmith]

I kinda ruled out the switch gear since it was working for the sidelight. I'll strip it today!

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk HD

I lost all lights on an unlit single carriageway doing 90, its not nice having to punch the switchgear to fix it

sent from a weapon of mass distraction

[craig dow]

same happened to my sv , check connecter under the front nose cone , right hand side , I cleaned all bits there and its worked ever since , hope that might help

[a_monkey_hint]

Took apart the right switchgear today. Looked in quite good condition. Totally stripped, cleaned and put back together and its still not working.

On lights off switch everything is off as expected. On side lights switch dash lights come and and sidelight, when clicking to dipped beam, I still get dash lights & side lights but no dipped beam. I'm now stumped!

[andrewsmith]

Dirty connections on the bulbs.

[Sid Squid]

Basics first; bulbs and fuses checked good?
Assuming yes, then as you've dismantled it, you will have noticed that the headlight switch is two pole and there are two supplies to the switch, supplied and fused separately.
Clearly one pole is supplied and is switching correctly, (the one that supplies the tail, position and clock lights), and one may not be.

As both low and high beam do not work, and, if I understand you correctly, everything else does, then the fault is overwhelmingly likely to be in the parts of the lighting system common to both high and low beam, the relevant circuit is;

Orange wire from loom to right hand switch multipin plug - right hand switch multipin plug male/female connectors - orange & red wire from multipin plug to headlight switch - switch - yellow & white wire from switch to right hand switch multipin plug - relevant right hand switch multipin plug male/female connectors - yellow & white wire from right hand switch multipin plug to left hand switch multipin plug - relevant left hand switch multipin plug male/female connectors - yellow/white wire from said multipin plug to dip switch - dip switch.

Note on the right hand switch plug the supply wire is orange on the loom side of the plug and orange/red on the switch side

Check for voltage at each point along that line, if you don't have a meter a bulb with leads on it will work fine, put the wire from the bulb's body on a suitable clean point on the frame or preferably the battery negative terminal, the other wire is your test point, touch it on to the relevant points of the circuit as outlined above, if it lights you have voltage. Regularly check your tester back at the battery positive to avoid errors.

[a_monkey_hint]

Thanks for the advice everyone!

I've checked nearly every connection with a multimeter, but I'm unable to get a reading anywhere on the loom for the headlights! Even at the fusebox without the fuse in I get nothing (although I suspect the fusebox is at the end of the loom)!

I'm going to fit a bypass hopefully this weekend straight from bibio's distribution relay to my bulbs so they turn on whenever I turn my ignition on. It doesn't help that the previous owner has hacked the loom to bits so its covered in electrical tape and dodgy connections. The rear indicators a prime example where he's fitted aftermarkets ones and the wiring is a mess! I can't tell what is standard and what is his dodgy work!

Other than looking for an auto electrician or start replacing my loom I'm out of ideas.

[a_monkey_hint]

Dirty connections on the bulbs.

checked both connections - I'm getting no volts with a multimeter on the connections. Both bulbs look fine.


Check for voltage at each point along that line, if you don't have a meter a bulb with leads on it will work fine, put the wire from the bulb's body on a suitable clean point on the frame or preferably the battery negative terminal, the other wire is your test point, touch it on to the relevant points of the circuit as outlined above, if it lights you have voltage. Regularly check your tester back at the battery positive to avoid errors.

I've not done this yet so will try it this weekend.

[a_monkey_hint]

Is the loom from a 2002 completely different to a 1999? From what I've read I think they're different looms

[Grant66]

Is the loom from a 2002 completely different to a 1999? From what I've read I think they're different looms

Haynes has separate diagrams* changes look only to be colours of wires.

*Haynes diagram doesn't show all the loom connectors.

So not completely different but probably different enough to prevent a swap without some messing around.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/Gajjii/EPSON001_zps1fe83e37.jpg

99

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/Gajjii/EPSON002_zpsea980fa6.jpg

SK2

[a_monkey_hint]

Thanks for that, I think I'll hold out for a 99 loom then! :)

In the mean time I've got some wiring to bypass the loom temporarily.

[Sid Squid]

You don't need a loom - the problem is along the line I described above, parts of which are not the main loom - they're parts of the switch gear wiring.

If the problem is in one of those areas, which is entirely possible, changing the loom won't make any difference. Whatever the fault is it's simple, changing the loom is enormously over the top and may well not solve it.

[Toooldtodie]

Had exactly same three weeks ago. Had to spend £120 to trace and fix. Connector under tank where headlights come off was corroded on those for headlights (including pass and full) and as this had shorted out and it had melted them. Mechanic said he traced back to fuse box and got no current, so went visual only and that's what he found. The two wires were bypassed and now work. You'll need that wiring diagram posted by Grant66. Not saying this is the case for all, but that was my pain. Road salt's a killer.

[a_monkey_hint]

Fixed. Replaced lefthand switchgear and it's sorted it! Thanks everyone for your advice!

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[yoyo_man]

Hello. I did not understand what did you change? LEFTHAND switch gear?! Did you mean right?!

[jambo]

Hello. I did not understand what did you change? LEFTHAND switch gear?! Did you mean right?!

I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest he meant the left switch gear. The bit with the horn and crucially the high beam and passing switches on it.

Jambo

Edit, as noted there are many things that can cause the same fault, please do not simply start purchasing things that have fixed other's issues if you have the same fault. Sid Squid has outlined the components that might be at fault here.

[yoyo_man]

OK but can that interfere with the headlights turning on? They should be lit by the right button. I am having the same problem and trying to figure it out but never thought at the right buttons

[jambo]

OK but can that interfere with the headlights turning on? They should be lit by the right button. I am having the same problem and trying to figure it out but never thought at the right buttons

See this post (specifically the 3rd paragraph), it outlines all the wires and components involved, including, but not limited to the left hand switchgear.

Basics first; bulbs and fuses checked good?
Assuming yes, then as you've dismantled it, you will have noticed that the headlight switch is two pole and there are two supplies to the switch, supplied and fused separately.
Clearly one pole is supplied and is switching correctly, (the one that supplies the tail, position and clock lights), and one may not be.

As both low and high beam do not work, and, if I understand you correctly, everything else does, then the fault is overwhelmingly likely to be in the parts of the lighting system common to both high and low beam, the relevant circuit is;

Orange wire from loom to right hand switch multipin plug - right hand switch multipin plug male/female connectors - orange & red wire from multipin plug to headlight switch - switch - yellow & white wire from switch to right hand switch multipin plug - relevant right hand switch multipin plug male/female connectors - yellow & white wire from right hand switch multipin plug to left hand switch multipin plug - relevant left hand switch multipin plug male/female connectors - yellow/white wire from said multipin plug to dip switch - dip switch.

Note on the right hand switch plug the supply wire is orange on the loom side of the plug and orange/red on the switch side

Check for voltage at each point along that line, if you don't have a meter a bulb with leads on it will work fine, put the wire from the bulb's body on a suitable clean point on the frame or preferably the battery negative terminal, the other wire is your test point, touch it on to the relevant points of the circuit as outlined above, if it lights you have voltage. Regularly check your tester back at the battery positive to avoid errors.

If you take the time out to investigate properly you should be able to repair the fault for next to no money. If you jump to conclusions this can take a while.

It's not as hard as you think it might be.

Jambo

Edit, if you see the additional post here it shows why those wires are common and why they are important:
Haynes has separate diagrams* changes look only to be colours of wires.

*Haynes diagram doesn't show all the loom connectors.

So not completely different but probably different enough to prevent a swap without some messing around.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/Gajjii/EPSON001_zps1fe83e37.jpg

99

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/Gajjii/EPSON002_zpsea980fa6.jpg

SK2

[yoyo_man]

OK. I am not very good at electrics and these schemes look very hectic to me but I will try and figure things out. Thank you very much for the help

[DanSp]

I had this problem on my pointy a few weeks back... it was the LH switchgear connector into the loom! it had previously shorted/burnt and had been bypassed with a crimp terminal which had failed!

[yoyo_man]

I started the bike today and the lights were working ...but during the ride they stopped working two times and then started again. Weird.

[DanSp]

Sounds like a connection somewhere is a bit dodgy!

[jambo]

Look at the connector blocks in the points above. Give them a wiggle, this will not get better on its own

Jambo

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