My tri oval exhaust build

[nikon70]

perf tube (http://www.pjengineering.co.uk/products.php?cat=13)
£19

db killer (http://www.pjengineering.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=dbkiller)
£14.50

packing (http://www.pjengineering.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=packing)
£10

tri oval outlet (http://www.pjengineering.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=triovaloutlet)
£29

tri oval inlet (http://www.pjengineering.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=triovalebdcap)
£22

tri oval tube (http://www.pjengineering.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=triovalcarbon)
£41

rivet bands (http://www.pjengineering.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=rivetstrap)
£9

£144.50

is it worth it? or should I just buy a random one??

[aesmith]

Why not go for it? Rivets also needed of course. My exhaust (Remus) has a damaged rivet band at the front which I would love to replace, but don't want to pay their price of £50 for a kit. I need to look at your parts list.

Tony S

[Griff-SV]

Do it :) It would be an interesting little project!

[squirrel_hunter]

Do it and post pictures.

However I suggest not using Carbon Fibre with an SV if you want longevity.

[nikon70]

yes I have found that out the hard way!!! the existing carbon can (currently fitted as in my avatar) has rattled the carbon so much it now has a gas leak hence the desire to build my own can

:( but i wrote this down to not having a steel band around it for the rivots to hold it in place... am i wrong?

also if I do make it myself of course I am not registered as a zorst manufacturer who confirms to BSAU regs so would it be legal?

I have heard/read somewhere that the law has changed and that it would be road legal & pass mot as long as they are stamped not for road use and not too obtrusively loud.

if I am not to use carbon.... i need to find a new supplier for the tri oval tube :(

rivets i have a whole bunch kicking about, and a rivet gun ;) standard bit of kit these days.

[Runako]

I'm equally interested to know how one would go about making/refurbing the existing exhaust with new parts. My carbon has split at the point where the hanger oval meets the can. I know there is a leak which I've temporarily patched. I don't know whether this affects my fuelling(?) or engine performance (?) It certainly sounds different so considered eventually buying new, but would prefer to learn how to repack and repair etc.

[nikon70]

first off which is the hard part, is sourcing a replacement tube... then it's easy, just drill out the rivets, remove the carbon tube, then replace with new, and drill holes where the new rivets go, rivet it all back together - job done. about an hours work.

will it affect performance/fuelling... marginally but yes! any changes to the zorst system will.... hence why remapping / dyno is recommended post changing any zorst

[Bibio]

they sell the tri oval one you intend to make for £150.

[nikon70]

I know but where is the fun of just buying one!!! :)

I might end up just resleeving my existing yoshi... and fitting a new inlet cap

[Bibio]

I know but where is the fun of just buying one!!! :)

i like this answer :thumbsup:

[squirrel_hunter]

Drop PJ Engineering a mail and check if they do a metal one. Had a quick look at their site and didn't see anything, but the last time I was browsing their site a year or so back I think they did do more metal.

[nikon70]

Yup did that the other day, unfortunately only tri oval in carbon.

I can get oval and round pretty much anywhere in different colours too for £25

[Runako]

Do a little Vid if you decide to go ahead Nikon. Your instructions sound easy enough, so why does it cost so much for most replacement exhausts? Surely more people would just make their own end cans?

Anyway, will wait to see what develops and add it to my list of "must learn to do". Thanks for the advice and good luck with the search.

[aesmith]

However I suggest not using Carbon Fibre with an SV if you want longevity.
Don't say that! My SV has a Carbon can, quite an expensive one as far as I can see but fitted by a former owner so I wouldn't be able to complain to the supplier if it fails.

By the way, regarding rivets, do you use normal aluminium rivets or would it be better to use stainless or Monel?

Tony S

[nikon70]

personally which ever I have kicking about, which are usually dome head stainless closed end (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rivets/3513565/?origin=PSF_432008|alt) which means it is water and air tight!

most rivets you get have a break open stem or what looks like a little bubble at the bottom - these are no good for zorts as they will not be air tight and could cause a gas leak - mot fail!

[BoltonSte]

Don't say that! My SV has a Carbon can, quite an expensive one as far as I can see but fitted by a former owner so I wouldn't be able to complain to the supplier if it fails.

By the way, regarding rivets, do you use normal aluminium rivets or would it be better to use stainless or Monel?

Tony S

I thought it was due to the packing burning away or shifting that eventually causes the damage and keeping it packed should keep it in tip top condition.

This is just from the depths of my memory mind and may be mixed up.

[nikon70]

the reason you use to have to repack cans were due to 2 stroke engines sending oil into the packing which meant it would go all gooey... in 4 stoke cans, repacking is really a thing of the past.... but that's just my 2c.

[squirrel_hunter]

Keeping the packing topped up helps but even with that I have found the Carbon doesn't last. I've gone through 4 Carbon cans and am now on my 5th. Once that one is done with I will be going back to metal.

[Owenski]

I'd be tempted to do this for the GSR, those slip ons start around £300 so I've a good saving on the parts you've listed.

[NTECUK]

Use Sainless rivets.
The exhust pulses are what a bit damaging to the carbon cans.

[nikon70]

found this (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2nrE6w3aeI&NR)while looking for tri oval s/s sleeve

[nikon70]

Ok the bank holiday weekend was productive!

I decided to take a part my existing yoshi can and make repairs... the carbon was all knackered around all the rivets, so they got drilled out, easiest job in the world.

Then I removed the inlet and outlets... to reveal the horrors inside!!!!

someone had mutilated the perforated tube inside and the internal baffle....

Then began the task to try to fix that... so out came the angle grinder (could't find my saw hehe) sparks flew, it was like we were in love...

off came the perforated tube! nice work!

then the internal baffle... that was a B**CH!!! it was machine pressed into the outlet.... so I thought that I could just drill a hole in the pipe (mild steel) and anchor it to something sold and bash it out.... NOPE!!!

Once I put the hammer down and had a cup of tea it hit me! no not the baffle, an IDEA!!!

In the vice it went, out cam the SDS hammer drill, set to hammer action.... ah now that was an easy way to get it out!

So now I have the inlet and outlet with no baffle or perf' tube, carbon sleeve with knackered ends and a lots of zorst packing (you know the crazy itchy stuff)....

By this time I found the hacksaw, cut about 20mm off both ends of the carbon sleeve off, did it mark it up, NO, was it straight... 'ish, good enough - YES

un-knackered the perforated tube, it was very bent at the end, GOD only knows what had been done to it...

then fixed it to the outlet

time for another tea break!

I then got out some high temp gasket seal, whacked it around once side of the internal end of the sleeve, and the outlet outter, slipped on the carbon sleeve then repacked the zorst with the packing, being now 40mm shorter what packing was gone filled it nicely!

same gasket sealant on the other side of the carbon internal and the inlet bit and slipped it all back together.

the rest is history.... whacked on the rivet strap both ends, one rivet at a time, filling each hole with a bit of sealant to give it that extra tight gas seal, using my hand to bend it round the oval sleeve and a hammer to flatten it down more.

a couple of the rivet legs broke off and did not close the rivet properly, so I had to drill them out and do that one again... what a pain!

the yoshi plate would no longer fit on the can so the holes were filled with two rivets.

all sealant removed with a stanley knife and bolted it back on.... waited a few hours for the sealant to dry then started her up!

GOSH.... my ears are bleeding!!!

Am I happy with the results? YES

Finished article:

http://thumbnails102.imagebam.com/25684/c32470256835922.jpg (http://www.imagebam.com/image/c32470256835922) http://thumbnails105.imagebam.com/25684/260583256835923.jpg (http://www.imagebam.com/image/260583256835923) http://thumbnails105.imagebam.com/25684/625fa6256835925.jpg (http://www.imagebam.com/image/625fa6256835925)



What would I do differently next time?
clean the inlet & outlet pipe and make it shine again
trash that itchy packing and go for the wool planket type,
layer the internal perforted tube with steel wool
get the correct length rivet strap, its about 10mm too short

[Pricey12]

Very nice.

I wish I had the patience to try that sort of thing. Good job :D

[kiggles]

i think this is a good idea to do for the knowledge and doing it yourself. But in my books better off buying second hand one off ebay or a ready made one and put efforts into something else. If you were going to make an interesting new can and design It would be worth doing I recon like under seat design.

I would not consider this option for a sv650 but i would for my cbr600rr as the market for underseat exhausts are small and limited in choice. unless you make a super cool dual outlet one like laser cans but on the cheap.


nice job on the exhaust though looks noisey! and brand new

[nikon70]

thanks

total cost £20 :)

underseat.... yes can be done but it's a pain in the rear! plus I do not have access to mild steel pipe bending equipment, otherwise I would defo try that!!! :)

If I had some sand paper I would have got all those scratches out too.

It is loud, for the sake of my hearing I will be using a db killer that I have kicking about in the shed!

even with ear plugs and a x-sprirt 2 lid its loud!!!! sounds sweet through tunnels tho!!!!

[Griff-SV]

Nice one Nickon :) It looks like a mean little beasty now!

[nikon70]

yes it is a bit of a beast!

my one thought is ... now it is so light and short, do I really need the hanger and strap ;)

its bolted on so tight!!! it ain't going anywhere!

[stuR]

Well done. Looks cool, ive never seen one at such an angle..

[nikon70]

well technically it's from a gxsr but it works quite well on the sv :)

[yorkie_chris]

the reason you use to have to repack cans were due to 2 stroke engines sending oil into the packing which meant it would go all gooey... in 4 stoke cans, repacking is really a thing of the past.... but that's just my 2c.

No it isn't... it still gets blown out eventually and harms the power output.

[nikon70]

Not if you use correct packing like the wool blanket and steel wool around the internal baffle

[yorkie_chris]

Ok mate let me know how it is in a few 10k's time...

I've never seen an aftermarket can not lose it's packing.