View Full Version : How to lube your motorcycle chain
Fallout
06-06-13, 09:07 PM
Just put a new chain and sprockets on the Tiger and decided to get some actual facts on chain lube once and for all. Ya know, typically ya just spray some stuff on it and lah lah don't think about it. Rictus doesn't clean his chain, some people even use WD40, some soak in parafin, loads of people spray their lube on the outside of the chain over the sprocket while spinning the wheel. Some people can't be arsed to lube the chain at all and just pick their noses and watch porn.
I thought I'd actually watch a few little vids and do some reading this evening, and after all that I think I have a good understanding of what, when, how, why and how to pick my nose and watch porn. Here are my learnings ...
What does chain lube do?
The very term 'lubricating' a chain is somewhat misleading. It appears the lubrication isn't the only purpose of chain lube. It is also importantly to protect the rings from debris. For those who don't know, the rings are rubber (I assume) Os that separate the inner and outer plates of the chain. Their main function is to keep dirt out and keep internal lubrication (the stuff that lets the rollers roll smoothly) in. When these go, the lube gets out, dirt gets in and the chain will rapidly become junk.
The lube does also provide a degree of lubrication for the rollers against the sprockets, but this really isn't it's main purpose. It's really there to protect the rings and lube them against the side plates.
Where do I spray it then?
The bits you really want to lube are the rings themselves, so your lube must get between the inner and outer plates onto the ring surface.
You must lubricate the chain from the inside circumference. Lubricating it on the outside achieves very little except flinging lube all over the place. A lot of people pop the back wheel up and spray onto the rounded chain on the sprocket. This isn't very effective as you're mostly spraying onto the outer circumference. So looking at the chain from the side of the bike, you need to spray down onto the lower run of the chain between the sprockets, and get it into the side plates onto the rings themselves. When you ride, the centrifugal force will push the lube in and around the rings and out to the external circumference too.
What about cleaning the chain?
When you clean the chain, the most important thing is to remove dirt from the rings. Dirt will stick to the existing lube around the rings, so you need to get rid of this old lube and dirt before you apply the new stuff. Just applying lube on top of old lube isn't ideal, as you're just trapping dirt inside the linkages. Yes, it's better to lube without cleaning than not lube at all, as lube will wash/wear/fly off over time, so you'll be lubing exposed rings anyway, but in an ideal scenario, you want that old debris out first.
It's important to consider that you're trying to preserve the life of the rings. With that in mind, wire brushes and really harsh bristles aren't a good idea. If you can clean the chain with chain cleaners which don't damage or penetrate rings and maybe a rag too, that's great. If you need to use a brush, a soft bristled brush is best. Always think protecting those o-rings and keeping the lube inside.
How much lube should I use?
You don't need much. Since all you're really doing is protecting the rings and their area is small, you don't need to go mad. You can wipe off all that excess lube from the rollers and side plates with a rag. This will massively reduce fling. The wiping process will also push excess lube in between the side plates and shouldn't wipe out any since the gaps are small.
How often should I lube it?
Well, you can actually get an idea of how often looking at the dirt build up and feeling friction. If your chain is filthy on a particular link, you clean it thoroughly then lube it and work the chain, you should feel it move more easily. Over time you can probably perform a visual and movement inspection and learn when its time to lube. Some manuals say 200 miles, some 400, some more. It also depends on the weather, road conditions and lube type. In essence, if it's filthy, getting stiffer, or it has just been more than 300-400 miles, do some maintenance.
When is the best time to lube?
Lube it up when it's warm. The easiest time is when you get back from a ride, although I will often warm the chain up with a heat gun (being careful not to get it HOT though and damage the rings). I really wouldn't recommend this for safety reasons, but I'll idle the engine in first gear and hold a heat gun to the chain until it's warm. Obviously I keep my fingers well away from it, because there are some nasty horror stories of doing this.
When it's warm the cracks and crevises are slightly expanded so you'll get more penetration, plus the lube will flow a little and sink in.
If any of you have any conflicting thoughts I'd like to hear them. If you convince me (perhaps with a sexy dance), I'll edit this post. Maybe there's a slim chance somebody might actually use the search function and read this in the future.
Thanks Fallout, great post!! I have just recently cleaned and lubbed my chain for the first time (after doing plenty searching, asking advice from mates and watching plenty videos on youtube (not porn, but i think i did pick my nose?) None were as informative as this so many thanks again!!
nice write up m8.
i tend just to fill the scottoiler every 500 or so miles, they are about £80 and make your chain and sprockets last much much longer so pay for themselves. 16.5k and the OEM chain has not moved off its marks :-)
Fallout
06-06-13, 10:49 PM
No probs. :) I really should get a scotoiler with the miles I'm doing and being away from home a lot. I guess the right time is now too. Hmmmmmmmmmm ..... *brain ticking*
Hi have one in the garage Si. Bought with the intention of fitting to the SV
tigersaw
07-06-13, 07:05 AM
Lube attracts grit, grit turns into grinding paste and wears out the chain. just keep it clean.
what type of lube should I use? wd40, dry , wet, wax, engine oil, chain oil. They used to do a blingy gold spray :)
+ 1 on the auto chain oiler
Gear oil (EP) It sticks like sh##e and last ages in an auto oiler
Fallout
07-06-13, 08:24 AM
To be honest, I couldn't find a clear answer on that. Seems it's horses for courses as well as down to roads and condition. Some people say thicker waxes are good in salty conditions to help prevent corrosion. Dry chainlubes are better for bling, so more suitable for summer, cleaner conditions. Obviously some people use stuff like gearoil as NTEC said.
Can't get a conclusive answer for this, but the one point I read was that actual specific chainlube products aren't actually much of a lubricant. Rub it between your fingers and its more sticky that slippy, and this is because the protective quality is more important than the lubricant quality. So it doesn't matter if you accidentally get some on your tyre. It won't cause any problems, it'll just wear off.
good right up Fallout
what type of lube should I use? wd40, dry , wet, wax, engine oil, chain oil. They used to do a blingy gold spray :)
some people say keep WD40 away from your chain - I don't know but I never use it for cleaning (and obviously not for oiling, as it is not a lubricant)
I usually use Wurth dry chain lube and recently halfords chain wax, when I am cleaning it I do it with Wurth chain cleaner or something like paraffin - or even engine oil and chain brush.
Was thinking about getting scottoiler but now when I don't commute any more it is a bit harder to justify the cost - and every time I lube the chain I have a chance to look at it, check the wheel etc., just regular close look at the bike from a bit different angle
Littlepeahead
07-06-13, 08:33 AM
I think I will get a Scottoiler for the Baby Beemer, I have one on the SV and it's just easy. Plus with no centre stand on the GS it's just a faff.
Fallout
07-06-13, 08:36 AM
I usually use Wurth dry chain lube and recently halfords chain wax, when I am cleaning it I do it with Wurth chain cleaner
I used to use Wurth dry lube too, but I found I get way more applications from a can of their chain wax. Seems to go further. I also use the chain cleaner, but I find you need to use half of a can to fully dissolve all the crud, and that gets really expensive, so I tend to just use a lot of soap and warm water to clean it.
WD 40 good for flushing out lube .
but on a chain its not going to be on it very long.
Eng and Gear oils do.
plus they do take the dirt with them as they fling off.
That why Mark never cleans his chains .
I do wipe over my chain as its gold bling type on the RSV.
yes it gets messy up the gearbox end but a squirt of WD and fairy liquid soon sorrt it out.
A bit of paraffin on a rag cleans the chain up a treat. I also give mine a coat of chainsaw oil once in a while. Not sure if I'm doing good or harm but I've always done it and chains seem to last for ever. Oh and I have a scott oiler which from time to time actually has some oil in it and an unblocked delivery pipe. I can recommend not leaving the oiler set to prime when out for a ride as left-handers get a tad exciting.
I think I will get a Scottoiler for the Baby Beemer, I have one on the SV and it's just easy. Plus with no centre stand on the GS it's just a faff.
Post up a "How too" when you do .Then will help others who have asked before .
:laughat:
When it's warm the cracks and crevises are slightly expanded so you'll get more penetration, plus the lube will flow a little and sink in.
I think that should go on your sig :smt043
yes i'm a little immature
Popy Fresco
07-06-13, 12:04 PM
What scotoiler do you have guys? I'm thinking on getting one too, but for that price can get 10 cans of lub...
Any auto or manual one is a hundreds times better than any number of cans .
Best £45 your spend on mantainace
Littlepeahead
07-06-13, 12:16 PM
Post up a "How too" when you do .Then will help others who have asked before .
It will probably be 'Take to dealer, leave it with them while I go shopping'.
It will probably be 'Take to dealer, leave it with them while I go shopping'.
Step up to the Wicket and get ya paws dirty .
Your inspire other less tec types to fit one.
A bit of paraffin on a rag cleans the chain up a treat. I also give mine a coat of chainsaw oil once in a while. Not sure if I'm doing good or harm but I've always done it and chains seem to last for ever.
Exactly what I do and minimal faffing, mine's done 20k since I bought the bike (second hand) and not had to adjust it yet.
that actually sounds like a good idea (using chainsaw oil)
I'll give it a try
What scotoiler do you have guys? I'm thinking on getting one too, but for that price can get 10 cans of lub...
yes but with that 10 cans of lube you will need 3 sets of chains and sprockets compared to a scottoiler (v system).
as a rough guestimate i use a large bottle of the blue scottolier oil a year which is about £8 and i do about 7k a year
as i said i'm on 16.5k with the OEM chain and sprockets and they have not moved off the marks compared to one of the other members on here who i ride with got 14k using chain lube.
i'll more than likely see 40-45k out my chain and sprockets.
so £80 for the scottoiler kit and £8 every 6-7k plus 40k out the chain and sprockets as opposed to £6 every 6-7k but another £200 on chain and sprocket kits using lube. never mind the faffing about putting the bike on a paddock stand to lube the chain.
Bloody hell fallout, actual useful information that exited your brain!? good write up though. i really should give mine an actual clean some time i guess but...
got a scottoiler v system with dual injector kit, has twin nipples (ooh err) on the sprocket so the drip rate (again) doesnt need to be as high so the oil lasts a bit longer.
£80 ish for the v system £25 for the dual injector kit and jobs a goodun! i keep thinking my chain needs adjusting but everytime i get it checked they say its fine. not sure that would be the case with out the oiler, 1 too lazy to lube chain, 2 no centre stand makes it a ball ache, 3 no room to wheel bike around to get it all.
scotoiler wins :)
Soonmixdin
22-07-13, 01:25 PM
Alright gents!! I hear a lot of love for the Scottoilers in this thread but I was wondering if anyone has tried a Loobman or Tuturo oiler instead?
both the poor mans scottoiler. a lot of people are happy with them but scottoiler is the original and the best in my book.
Loobman . plunger system.
plunge you in the nearest hedge when the thing sticks and empties the entire resivor over the back tyre .
There is a reason its only £18.....
aesmith
23-07-13, 07:33 AM
Alright gents!! I hear a lot of love for the Scottoilers in this thread but I was wondering if anyone has tried a Loobman or Tuturo oiler instead?
I have a Tutoro Auto, seems to work OK. I had a Scottoiler on a previous bike and had some trouble with it, so thought I'd try something different on the SV.
Soonmixdin
23-07-13, 07:55 AM
The chain on my new bike looks dry as the sahara and is a lovely black fuzzy colour, so I am assuming it has only been somewhat neglected during the last owners' tenure. I plan to give it a good old de-gunge, would you say that white spirit would also be alright for this purpose, or should I stick to WD-40 & then Muc-Off?
Loobman . plunger system.
plunge you in the nearest hedge when the thing sticks and empties the entire resivor over the back tyre .
There is a reason its only £18.....
LOL :D
This exact thought had occurred to me when researching this particular system, seems a bit cheap compared to the competition and saw a few comments where people said it dripped oil over their driveways
I have a Tutoro Auto, seems to work OK. I had a Scottoiler on a previous bike and had some trouble with it, so thought I'd try something different on the SV.
I've mainly seen positive feedback about this system, priced somewhat less than the Scottoiler system and less fiddly to install. I've also seen that one of our forum members here Jayneflakes was a part of the testing group before it went to market.
I have tried to find the thread she posted with pictures of the install but am struggling. Could anyone help me with this?
aesmith
23-07-13, 08:12 AM
I've mainly seen positive feedback about this system, priced somewhat less than the Scottoiler system and less fiddly to install. I've also seen that one of our forum members here Jayneflakes was a part of the testing group before it went to market.
I have tried to find the thread she posted with pictures of the install but am struggling. Could anyone help me with this?
This one ?
http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=194193
I couldn't mount mine there as the toolbox is in the way (K6) so I went for behind the pillion rest similar to ..
http://forums.sv650.org/showpost.php?p=2684135&postcount=11
I secured the pipe with P clips onto the chainguard mounting screws, rather than using tie wraps round the swinging arm. My bike's much too dirty for any photos.
Soonmixdin
23-07-13, 08:30 AM
This one ?
http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=194193
I couldn't mount mine there as the toolbox is in the way (K6) so I went for behind the pillion rest similar to ..
http://forums.sv650.org/showpost.php?p=2684135&postcount=11
I secured the pipe with P clips onto the chainguard mounting screws, rather than using tie wraps round the swinging arm. My bike's much too dirty for any photos.
Cheers for that, muchos appreciados! :thumbsup:
Daffy_Duck
23-07-13, 08:40 AM
I dont like scottoilers at all, just attract tons of dirt and black **** every where you can see around the chain. Spent hours cleaning back wheel, the hub, sproket, swingarm, chaingaurds when i first got my bike.
I keep the chain clean with a rag, blast of with wd40 sometime and put some spray chain lube on probably once a week. I stay on top of it so takes a couple minutes.
All ways used this method had bikes from being 10years old only ever bought one set of sprokets and new chain and that was due to an off :smt022 only an Rm125.
Good thread though for those curious, good easy diy greasy job even for those less mechanically minded :D
I bought some motul chain paste .
it's holding its own with all the dust were the roads have been resefaced with a tonne of gravel .
lots of fun picking out all gravel not
Soonmixdin
23-07-13, 11:31 AM
I dont like scottoilers at all, just attract tons of dirt and black **** every where you can see around the chain. Spent hours cleaning back wheel, the hub, sproket, swingarm, chaingaurds when i first got my bike.
I keep the chain clean with a rag, blast of with wd40 sometime and put some spray chain lube on probably once a week. I stay on top of it so takes a couple minutes.
All ways used this method had bikes from being 10years old only ever bought one set of sprokets and new chain and that was due to an off :smt022 only an Rm125.
Good thread though for those curious, good easy diy greasy job even for those less mechanically minded :D
Can I ask though, do you have adequate space to work on your bike and perhaps a paddock stand? I live in a flat and am on the third floor so space is at a premium and I think investing in a chain oiler is, for me at least, the right way to go.
I bought some motul chain paste .
it's holding its own with all the dust were the roads have been resefaced with a tonne of gravel .
lots of fun picking out all gravel not
They've just done that round here, dust and gravel all over the fricking place. How on earth they are allowed to get away with just doing that I cannot understand! Only glad I haven't been riding whilst it's been settling in!!!
you get odd looks from car drives as you sit a bit far right following the clean bit . Then the drive entrances and corners become entertaining .
Sweep the roads you gits ...:evil:
Daffy_Duck
23-07-13, 01:57 PM
Can I ask though, do you have adequate space to work on your bike and perhaps a paddock stand? I live in a flat and am on the third floor so space is at a premium and I think investing in a chain oiler is, for me at least, the right way to go.
Thats fair point i do have a garage and plenty of room for fiddling :rolleyes: lol
sam anon
15-09-13, 07:46 PM
Hi all, I thought I'd ask your advice on this.
I've just used the new WD40 Chain Wax for the first time, has anyone else tried it? I'm used to thinner lubes but thought I'd give the wax ago due to Autumn approaching!
However, I found you can apply thinner lubes more efficiently as they exit the can slower, so you can apply it slowly so it actually flows onto the chain rather than blasts onto it and goes everywhere. Also, you can immediately see the lube has worked it's way to the outside of the seals.
The wax blasts out because it's thicker, and despite being white can only see a little evidence of it on the outside of the seals.
Any thoughts?
I use the WD40 chain lube and think is brilliant. Can't comment on the wax though, sorry
I use Kalgard and have done for years. It saw me run up 32000 miles on original chain and sprockets on my Fazer.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
yorkie_chris
08-10-13, 07:44 AM
I keep the chain clean with a rag, blast of with wd40 sometime and put some spray chain lube on probably once a week. I stay on top of it so takes a couple minutes.
All ways used this method had bikes from being 10years old only ever bought one set of sprokets and new chain
How many miles do you do? Either not many or you spend your entire life WD40'ing.
The black crap from scottoiler doesn't do any harm, it's a protective coat.
Fallout
08-10-13, 09:07 AM
To be honest, in all chain maintenance threads I've ever read, there are always loads of people chiming in with "I get 30-50k out of a set" no matter what method they use. I just ignore it now!
All I can say is I've owned 4 bikes. 3 of them I bought with mileage between 18 and 28k. All of them were close to needing the chain/sprockets changed and had them changed within a year of ownership. The Tiger and SV had full service history, so were well maintained and hopefully that means the chain was looked after. The Gixxer we just won't talk about! From that I just think 30k+ claims of chainlife are bull, or made by people with extremely limp right wrists, or perhaps scotoiler users, otherwise I fail to see how those life spans are true.
Only Mr YC or SidlySquidly or other mechanics can tell us the facts from a broader range of bikes.
To be honest, in all chain maintenance threads I've ever read, there are always loads of people chiming in with "I get 30-50k out of a set" no matter what method they use. I just ignore it now!
All I can say is I've owned 4 bikes. 3 of them I bought with mileage between 18 and 28k. All of them were close to needing the chain/sprockets changed and had them changed within a year of ownership. The Tiger and SV had full service history, so were well maintained and hopefully that means the chain was looked after. The Gixxer we just won't talk about! From that I just think 30k+ claims of chainlife are bull, or made by people with extremely limp right wrists, or perhaps scotoiler users, otherwise I fail to see how those life spans are true.
Only Mr YC or SidlySquidly or other mechanics can tell us the facts from a broader range of bikes.
Never adjusted the chain either from 24000 onwards, this was on an FZ6. Never needed doing. Perhaps testament to Yamaha's build quality.
Bull? I got decent life from stock consumables which I was pretty chuffed with; and regarding limp wrists? You don't fart about when you commute - it isn't a leisurely ride when you've got work at the other end and all manner of rush hour traffic to deal with.
I just fancied sharing my lube. That is all. 😜
Tigerrrr.......
08-10-13, 07:51 PM
When it's warm the cracks and crevises are slightly expanded so you'll get more penetration, plus the lube will flow a little and sink in.
I've never understood this. Surely when metals heat up they expand, so the gap between the two plates gets smaller, or is my chemistry wrong?
Great article, by the way. Well researched.
aesmith
09-10-13, 03:24 PM
I just fancied sharing my lube. That is all. 😜
That's what this thread's all about.
But there must be more to it than just "use Kalgard". Stuff like which of their products is used, how it's applied (and how often), riding in the wet or dry only, how often is the chain cleaned. Their products look like they come in a bottle, not as a spray, so how is that applied to the chain? Given all the different lubes on offer, I would be surprised if using one brand vs another made a massive difference. It's got to be a combination of the product and the way it's used that gives the overall good (or bad) result.
yorkie_chris
09-10-13, 03:26 PM
Important thing is how to get absolute maximum safe mileage from a chain with absolute minimum effort and cost.
That's what this thread's all about.
But there must be more to it than just "use Kalgard".
Kalgard comes in an aerosol and I use it whenever I feel chain-neglect guilt, usually every 250-300ish miles, depending on weather.
The product has that molybdenum disulphide stuff in it. A little goes a long way. Doesn't particularly wash off with wet weather but I tend to top it up when riding in prolonged wet conditions.
I only got it because M&P had a bogof offer on. Glad I did!
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Soonmixdin
19-03-14, 05:48 PM
Seeing as it seems spring has well and truly sprung, it seems like an appropriate time to bring this topic back to the fore!
I spent about 4 hours last weekend cleaning the chain and sprockets on my 125 which were absolutely DISGUSTING. Tried spray cleaner, MucOff and other soap and water but it was so caked with crud and oily grime none of these touched it. I eventually resorted to using white spirit, but as I was unsure about removing the chain I cleaned it in situ using rags and brushes.
Should have taken a before and after photo because the difference is incredible. I can actually read what's on the chain now and have discovered that I even have a master link with a spring clip!
After giving it a really good clean and rinse with clean water, I then coated it with WD-40 and left it. I have some Castrol Chain Wax but by the sounds of it this stuff isn't very good (see here (http://www.motorcyclenews.com/mcn/products/productsresults/parts-accessories/2011/march/mar15511castrolchainwax/)).
I've seen people recommending all sorts of different lubes here; WD-40, Kalgard, Gear Oil, Chainsaw Oil, etc. I've read some very good things about Wurth Chain Lube so I've ordered a can off eBay for under a tenner. Is anyone else using this? Either way, would be good to have some more contributions on the subject.
Next up - will be to clean and lube the chain on my SV650! I plan to get the chain off to do this, so the Haynes manual that arrived the other day should come in handy. Anyone got any tips for this too?
rictus01
19-03-14, 06:21 PM
not that I've ever found a need to clean a chain, but for those oily/greasy jobs get yourself some diesel; cheap and easy to use, also you shouldn't be using WD40, it's very thin and won't stay there long also it's not an oil.
If you're going to do anything more than "play" on your bike a scottoiler will pay for itself by making the next C&S set last twice as long.
I use the WD40 chain lube (from their motorcycle range not standard wd40) and find it very good. As rictus says, if you do a fair mileage then a scottoiler may be the way to go.
Sid Squid
20-03-14, 01:07 AM
White spirit and chain O rings - just say no.
Specialone
20-03-14, 06:31 AM
Must admit I have always used white spirit to clean my chains, no worse than petrol or other heavy duty cleaners.
My drz has moved one notch on the adjuster in 4 years of ownership albeit it did have a working Scott oiler for about 6 months of that.
I sold my triumph sprint with 13.5k which I'd done from new, that never had the chain adjusted once, so I must've been doing something right.
I probably won't keep any bike longer than 20k so I'll doubt I'll ever have to replace a C&S, but if I have to, one set isn't exactly gonna break the bank so for me it's not something to worry about.
yorkie_chris
20-03-14, 09:06 AM
White spirit and chain O rings - just say no.
Really? Not convinced.
They're clearly oil compatible rings given that there's mineral oil based grease inside the chain.
got a spare chain rivet link or something with O rings to try chuck in a jar of white spirit?
Sid Squid
20-03-14, 09:10 AM
Really? Not convinced.
They're clearly oil compatible rings given that there's mineral oil based grease inside the chain.
got a spare chain rivet link or something with O rings to try chuck in a jar of white spirit?
I've got a few links, I'll see if I've got some spirit - watch this space.
Soonmixdin
20-03-14, 09:30 AM
not that I've ever found a need to clean a chain, but for those oily/greasy jobs get yourself some diesel; cheap and easy to use, also you shouldn't be using WD40, it's very thin and won't stay there long also it's not an oil.
If you're going to do anything more than "play" on your bike a scottoiler will pay for itself by making the next C&S set last twice as long.
Thanks for the tip, it so happens that I've already asked the questions about chain oilers earlier in this thread - I'm going to get a Tutoro Auto Oiler for my SV in due course.
Regards the diesel suggestion - I'll assume that you're saying that this is used for cleaning? I can't imagine it would be useful as a chain lube! I've actually read some good things about paraffin/lamp oil so I will be picking some of this up for my chain cleaning chores.
I use the WD40 chain lube (from their motorcycle range not standard wd40) and find it very good. As rictus says, if you do a fair mileage then a scottoiler may be the way to go.
Cheers mate - I've ordered up some Wurth Dry Lube but once that's gone I might try the WD40 stuff. Regards the oiler - see my comment above!
White spirit and chain O rings - just say no.
If you Google "white spirit motorcycle chain", you'll find that there are a lot of people doing this. In the main, they tend to remove the chain and place in a bottle with white spirit to remove the worst of the gunk, so I'm afraid that I'm a bit sceptical that what you say about it damaging them is in fact true.
Can you give us any examples of white spirit damaging chain O rings?
yorkie_chris
20-03-14, 09:45 AM
Paraffin is practically the same as white spirit.
Diesel works ok as a solvent but stinks. Gas oil would probably make a better lube with the sulfur content, but still, bit too thin...
wideguy
20-03-14, 12:21 PM
Kerosene works well. Not much different than diesel fuel, and stinks too, that's why I do it outdoors. Gunk engine cleaner works very well and is pretty much spray on hose off if you don't let the chain get too nasty with chain lube.
Citizen
20-03-14, 12:27 PM
I use Kerosene to clean and WD40 Lube, tried the muck off dry lube but didn't think it was as good as the WD40 one.
Not to hijack the thread but gonna be selling a Scottoiler soon (amongst other stuff) as just removed it from my bike, prefer the check, clean and lube myself so it became surplus.
Specialone
20-03-14, 04:08 PM
Best spray lube I've personally used is the putoline stuff, expensive but works well, doesn't fling off like some either.
after my previous comment in this thread, I started using chainsaw oil as a lube and paraffin for cleaning.
I put the oil on every other fuelling (350-400 miles), or every filling up during wet months.
Greetings Chaps and Chapess's
Now not concerning the different grade of steel in the chains manufacture, I think you are missing some important facts here - chain type and sprocket to chain interaction.
O ring
X ring
Normal
Many years ago a chain was a chain was a chain. And lubrication was vitally important.
If you remember you used to be able to buy a metal 'tub' (like the ready meal pies in a can) that contained solid chain grease. The idea was you heated the tub on a stove or whatever until the grease was warm and liquid. You then dunked your chain in waggled it around using a toothbrush etc getting off all the crap. The chain then was left in the molten grease whilst the heat was removed and the tub allowed to cool. As a consequence grease penetrated the chain when solidified remained inside the chain ready to flow when the chain warmed a little in use - friggin awesome system.
It is from the era that the likes of Scotoiler were born because chains NEEDED to be lubed because the grease leaked way in use (new chains came pre loaded with grease) that is why they were stiff when new.
Now, moving forward. O Ring chain,
These were developed to keep this grease were it belonged - inside the chain both lubing and rust proofing. The problem with O Ring chains was two fold. The rolling resistance / friction was much much higher when compared to 'normal' chains because the O Ring seal itself had full contact with both sides of the 'O' (a full 360deg). Also the O Ring itself was also retaining crap which acted like grinding past when grease 'weeped' a little in use (but nowhere near as bad as a normal chain).
And moving forward again X 'Ring' Type Chains
These build on everything from above but also try the limit the negatives. Again the idea is to retain grease inside the chain but also because the cross-sectional area is a cross shape the point contact friction is very much lower. The contact area (basically) has gone from a full 360deg for an O ring to X which only touches on the 'arms' of the cross. (The exact amount differs between manufactures). This is beneficial in two ways frictional losses are MUCH lower but also there's now room for the crap to fall into the gap between the 'arms' and the get flung out so the grinding paste effect is now also massively reduced.
Chain to Sprocket interaction
This was and will always be present. You have metal to metal contact which produces wear both on the chain rollers and sprocket teeth. These mating surfaces need to be constantly lubricated. The area of the sprockets above wear the chain sits usually has a build up of crud and grit and this needs to be cleaned - the emphasis is on the rear because the small front cog is usually protected from the road spray.
It is this area where the Scotoilers of the world make a massive difference. Not only do they lube this mating area but as a consequence can prevent crap reaching the seals of chain - primarily on the outside of the chain.
On all chains with seals you must be mindful that by the pure act of 'cleaning' them could be forcing grit into the seals, knackering them and / or introducing grit to the running surfaces causing premature wear. The seals COULD react badly to off the shelf 'normal' chemicals which cause the seals to expand or perish (think brake calliper seals). Check with the manufacture what chemicals are safe to use - one type could be safe for WD-40 yet another wouldn't.
I think of modern chain lubrication is like ear wax - ear wax is unsightly but we're not supposed to stick things down our lug 'oles get rid of it because we could cause additional problems. Just leave well alone and it will eventually come out naturally carrying with it the crap, woodlice, finger nails cuddly toys whatever. Chains with seals are the same.
So inclusion, know what type of chain you have. my opinion is that if you have a chain with seals you don't need to lube the chain for the chains sake. BUT keep a layer of grease on there sufficient enough to protect the seals from ingress of grit. But do apply lubrication for the mating surfaces of the chain / sprocket.
DON'T actively clean the chain by friction e.g. rubbing or brushing the chain perhaps just a wipe along the link sides if things get bad. Occasionally, wipe the crap off the sprockets that the chain has pushed up there in use.
With normal chains
Just keep greasing, keep lubing there is nothing there that might perish with solvent So actively clean it regularly try even to do a home made 'chain stew' as mentioned above. But be aware grit will find it's way in, accelerated chain wear will occur but good maintenance will vastly promote chain life.
Hope this help - makes you think a little and not just assume the historical ways with modern chains still apply.
Regards
Matt
the yanks call it Kerosene we call it Paraffin.
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