View Full Version : SV650S K1 Semi-rebuildage!
EDIT - If you're after the dash LED stuff it's in Thursday's work on page 2.
Some of you may recall from this thread (http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=197545) that I managed to pick up an SV650S for fairly cheap as it had a suspect engine. It starts, runs and idles fine albeit a bit tappy, but when loading the engine what sounds like a knock becomes apparent. I had some time until doing my mod1 so I decided to hunt around for a replacement engine as the rest of the bike seems fairly sound (apart from leaky callipers & one front stanchion but I have a seal kit for those).
This is her:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bikes/Original%20SV650S/919395_10151364058236717_328417619_o_zps1d1e9d5b.j pg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bikes/Original%20SV650S/472371_10151364068976717_296029570_o_zps041ecbc0.j pg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bikes/Original%20SV650S/921713_10151364068066717_861163234_o_zps5992b268.j pg
The purple may not be to everyone's taste but I kinda like it. So there.
Over the next few days or weeks I'll be updating this thread to roughly document my progress working on this bike at my certainly-not-pro skill level and if it helps out anyone else then all the better for it.
Cheerio for now, gotta go to work!
I like the purple :) Good luck with it all
Thanks! I would update more, but I've already documented chunks on my Facebook and I can't copy from there to here at work.
Pretty unreasonable if you ask me but there you go ;)
Okay so now I'm away from work and their anti-social media internet policy I can get on with things.
Before I get stuck in I should point out that there will be a LOT of pictures in this thread and just as importantly...Camilla Jessop sends her regards. I was asked to pass along that last part. ;)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/980250_10151446858451717_677332903_o.jpg
SO. What happens when a bike has a duff engine? It requires fixing up! And another engine. SO, then what happens when you pick up another bike that's better than the one you have but it's in bits? FIXING UP!! One slightly newer 2001 SV650S in yellow (and pieces) with my black 2001 SV lurking in the background.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1040336_10151446858466717_1711795819_o.jpg
HOWEVER. I checked both bikes over and the more I thought about it the more swapping an engine over seemed to be a lot of work; the yellow SV has a fair few improved components and it seems more economical to swap the parts of the black SV over onto the better bike as I rebuilt it.
One crate of original parts...and a fuel tank.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1053077_10151446858461717_1710809384_o.jpg
A pile of fairing panels. They will have a new home...
In the background there is a one-piece set of Frank Thomas leathers that are a biiiit too yellow for me. But they do fit, and I think I b0rked my shoulder up getting out of the damn things...that, and lugging a yellow bike about without a front brake. :mad:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1052704_10151446858701717_766600986_o.jpg
Yellow leathers of pain. Kinda nice, but not very me. The chap who gave me them when selling the SV was an absolute top fellow and I'm gutted for him that he'll never be able to ride again thanks to a nasty, nasty illness. His bike will live on.
Most of this work took me about three hours an evening to complete over the course of this week. I'm still not quite finished yet, but I'm pleased with how things have gone given that I've only really worked on old cars before and not very recently.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1052707_10151446858826717_1570338356_o.jpg
Part of this project is to replace the 'sidelight' and dash bulbs with modern LEDs. This is the original bulb sidelight.
Yes, I know it's not on the 'side', but I'm not going to argue with the manual.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/977688_10151446858831717_2004323425_o.jpg
And replaced with an ultra-bright heat-resistant LED.
I ordered the LEDs from Ultra LEDs (http://www.ultraleds.co.uk) which turned up fine and in good nick. I ordered three blue LEDs for the dials, four* white LEDs for the notification lights, three white LEDs for the dials in case the blue looked rubbish, a spare white LED just in case and a ceramic-cased LED for the sidelight which could also withstand any heat from the main headlamps.
Item
Sku
Qty
Subtotal
Ultimate 286 2 x Wide Angle Xenon white Leds Anti Canbus
U286S2W
8
£6.40
501/T10/194 CERAMIC 1 x 1 Watt Ultra Xenon White
U501CCW
1
£2.00
Ultimate 286 2 x Wide Angle BLUE Leds Anti Canbus
U286SB2
3
£2.49
Subtotal
£13.07
Delivery Charge
£1.80
Grand Total (Excl.Tax)
£12.39
Tax
£2.48
Grand Total (Incl.Tax)
£14.87
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1049019_10151446858906717_687926121_o.jpg
Spent a while scratching my head wondering which two hex bolts in my parts box were for the petrol tank. A few were the same thread and head but none matched the length. Turns out that two longer Allen/hex bolts matched the original bolts with added length for a pair of tank risers. I'm not totally convinced that raising the fuel tank makes a massive difference to airflow given the size of the airbox aperture so I'll probably not use them. Not right away, anyway.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1039741_10151446859046717_1185662670_o.jpg
Removed the rear fairings and lock. Held on by four large cross-head bolts & the two rear grab-handle bolts. There are two screws securing the two halves of the plastics together that are usually hidden by the seats, these have to be removed to enable the plastics to be pulled far enough apart to get around the rear subframe. Will have to swap the lock over to the other set. Undertray will be removed soon. Time to check out the front.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1052337_10151446859106717_1929289166_o.jpg
Wing mirrors and side fairings removed on the black SV for reference. One screw in the internal trim, then two 6mm hex bolts per wing mirror. Side fairings held on by a single front screw, a 4mm hex bolt on the side two on top and one below the screen.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1048615_10151446859141717_1427906844_o.jpg
Side and front fairings removed. Front was held on by four 4mm/T25 hex bolts; two beneath and two on the front that were covered by the side fairings. Had to get to the electrics to see how they route up and connect, the teeny front subframe and dash loom were off the bike in the box.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1040412_10151446859266717_1640546887_o.jpg
Bolted on the front subframe with two 12mm bolts (the dash pod was still attached, that's four 5mm nuts and washers). Removed the switching gear from the Renthal bars (two cross-head screws in the left, three in the right) which were removed along with the top yoke (two 6mm/T30 hex bolts and a honking great hollow nut, 30mm I think). Detaching the bars made getting the switches off without disconnecting anything a hell of a lot easier. The yoke is chillin' on the towel like it's on holiday. OH, HAI MR T YOKE, enjoy it while it lasts. Am made slightly sad by both switching gear's locating tabs being missing.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1048796_10151446859291717_1052326618_o.jpg
Alternate view of the top yoke and Renthal bars separate from the front forks. Brighter picture, funky angle. Bah. I soon dispensed with the 6mm Allen key and got myself a set of star-drive sockets and a 10mm 1/2 inch drive for my torque wrench the next day.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1053428_10151446859331717_850826462_o.jpg
Original clip-ons bolted back (T30 hex I think?) on along with right switching gear and throttle tube.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1048684_10151446859431717_2090605995_o.jpg
Top yoke back on, front brake lever re-attached, only one front calliper was connected with hardly any fluid so both front brakes got connected up with new Hel braided hoses and double-banjo nut on the master cylinder. Swapped the black mudguard onto the front. Cheerio, yellow!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1048929_10151446859491717_1367040888_o.jpg
Clip-ons & top yoke torqued on, both levers loosely bolted into place (8mm bolts), brake reservoir secured in place (10mm) & front brake hoses routed and secured. Renthal bar clamps left in place to cover the holes drilled into the top yoke and may be used to hold a phone or other accessories.
That was Monday's work done!
Righty! Just got some more work done with a significant breakthrough, but more on that later! Carrying on from where I left off:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1052355_10151448293806717_455830046_o.jpg
Didn't get much done on Tuesday as I had company! Tightened up the front subframe, cleaned, mounted and connected up the headlight cluster, fitted the left switch-gear and connected up the clutch switch, clutch cable & choke cable.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1048117_10151448293811717_153489929_o.jpg
I've gotta clean that dash cluster! Fairly boring shot (like any of them are a riot!) of the top of the front subframe, mostly for my benefit to note the cable routing. Looking to get the rear fairing done tomorrow, then it's air box, fuel tank, radiator, front fairings, dash LEDs, coolant, brake fluid, engine oil, final checks and engine test. Then fix stuff that isn't working.
That was it for Tuesday, a mate turned up and we had to get in a few hours of Company Of Heroes 2 and swear a lot.
Weds! Excuse the explanations of simple stuff, this was originally on my Facebook and I've kept most of the text as-is.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1052944_10151450005281717_1012911259_o.jpg
HOKAY! Front connections all done, except for the sidelight and front indicators which are awaiting the fairings. Switch-gear correctly positioned (without the locating lugs to fit into the clip-ons argh) and tightened up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1025485_10151450005276717_1414630284_o.jpg
Brake side switch-gear pic for positioning reference as there's no positioning lugs due to them being cut off when the switches were mounted on the Renthal bars.
Side note: engine cut-off & off/sidelight/headlight switches.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1039498_10151450005266717_1037167147_o.jpg
Clutch side switch-gear pic for positioning reference. Boring, yes?
Side note: indicator, horn, light flasher, dipped/main beam switches & choke lever.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1047927_10151450005471717_959079781_o.jpg
Disconnected the rear light cluster & indicators ready to remove the undertray. Pic mostly for cabling reference.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1053506_10151450005456717_1132284255_o.jpg
Checking the undertray bolt fixings, they're not mentioned in the Haynes manual. Grrrr. But there's only six of them (10mm if I remember right) and they'll soon be orf.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1049091_10151450005526717_420253170_o.jpg
Another shot of the rear light cluster, connections & undertray. Disconnected!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1064163_10151450005576717_1563942888_o.jpg
Nekkid rear subframe! Undertray removed. It actually came off a lot quicker than expected thanks to all of the mounting holes down the right-hand side having snapped off at some point in the past! There was a fabricated ally bracket bolted under the battery tray keeping the undertray up!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1040449_10151450005706717_1395514800_o.jpg
Another shot of the rear subframe with the rear light cluster still on for wiring & connector reference.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1065162_10151450005736717_255251076_o.jpg
Guess what's about to come off and find a new home? Rear fairing shot for reference so I can see which screws & bolts go where; they were already off of the yellow bike when I bought it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1047870_10151450005801717_1235733507_o.jpg
One triangular vent per side cover up the front seat hex bolts. I didn't get pictures of these but I think that they're held on by a T24 torx bolt each and once removed you need a T40 torx to get the seat bolts out, one per side. Removing the seat reveals the fuse box & fuel tank hinge. Again, for reference so I can see what secures what and which way around the fuse box goes; again, the tank wasn't on the yellow SV to support the fuse section. On the yellow SV it was floating loose and without the tank on I couldn't work out where those two locating tabs (to the right of the fuses) went. They go onto the tank hinge bracket (which is secured by those two 12mm bolts)!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1052675_10151450005871717_448229919_o.jpg
The inside of the rear left fairing. Needed reference to how the seat lock sat (fnarr) as those little mofos need to be swapped over. But this pic is creppe!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1063725_10151450005936717_683239659_o.jpg
A better picture showing the lock in relation to it's cable location bracket & locking plate. Turns out that the fairing & cable bracket had a groove in them and the lock barrel had a tab so it all went together in one way anyway. Great success!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1049260_10151450005931717_232774941_o.jpg
The yellow undertray. I was like YAY, THIS IS NICE...until...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1053384_10151450005971717_572255047_o.jpg
...I looked at the one from the black SV which is rather different. I think that this is an original Suzuki item and the nifty yellow one is an aftermarket item. Which rather buggers up the simple job of swapping number plates over! :smt076
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1049052_10151450006056717_617264695_o.jpg
This was a revelation, t'be sure! I'd never seen under a motorcycle fuel tank before. I learnt that the hole in the top yoke nut is for the fuel tank stand and that the petrol tank is way smaller than I thought: I figured that the airbox would be smaller and the tank bigger so that most of the bulge would be petrol tank!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1053049_10151450006076717_330667166_o.jpg
A rather crap picture of the side of the airbox and the space under the back of the tank. Rubbish.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1040315_10151450006131717_1085945769_o.jpg
YAY, now with a flash! Useful for showing the fuel regulator connection just next to the frame.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1048796_10151450006301717_415039564_o.jpg
The other side of the airbox. Boring! Can see the fuel tank level sender unit and fuel spigot over on the right edge though.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1049192_10151450006296717_159437682_o.jpg
On the left of the tank: the level sensor & sender (because YAY, everyone needs a flashing light before not-having-a-fuel-gauge leaves you pushing a bike to the petrol station), the fuel feed to the regulator (makes the bike go) and a vacuum hose (as the tank's spigot is vacuum activated which I am REALLY grateful for otherwise both tanks would be doing their utmost to empty themselves all over my garage!).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1064340_10151450006386717_517456498_o.jpg
The once-black SV, minus all it's fairings and fuel tank. This bike is a sad panda.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1049129_10151450006511717_1946804872_o.jpg
The once-yellow SV, now with black rear fairing on and secured. Kinda looks eager to get done and out of the garage. Anthropomorphic bikes a go-go!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1048811_10151450006526717_659167849_o.jpg
Middle to back shot of the good SV. Outstanding To Do list: number plate, exhaust hanger/rear footpegs, battery, seats, fuel tank, airbox, radiator, dash LEDs, front fairings & serviceable items.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1025486_10151450006586717_1122129496_o.jpg
Started on the rad and realised that I had to fit the expansion tank first. Look at it in there, all nice and snug! Yeah, it was an absolute little bast to get in there and even more of a pain to bolt in too! Still, that's done now, the top pipe loops around the airbox and connects to a T-piece that goes to the back of the fuel tank (eeeeh, a condensation collector?) and the drain pipe. The bottom pipe goes to the overflow connector in the neck of the rad which makes perfect sense; the coolant expands, raising it's level in the radiator, it overflows into the bottom of the expansion tank, if the level in the expansion tank rises to it's top outlet then the excess coolant, flows around the loop pipe to the T and down out of the overflow. (Common sense + Plumbing engineer's son = Pointing out the obvious ;] ).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/965638_10151450006671717_939176654_o.jpg
Both bikes back in their places to fit my CBR125R back in. Rad tomorrow, might even get the assembly done!
dirtydog
06-07-13, 06:24 PM
I think but not certain the black one is the standard rear fender and the yellow one is a proper Suzuki undertray.
How do you mean, DD? Those two trays had the identical job, they're both undertrays...how do you differentiate between an undertray and a fender?
dirtydog
07-07-13, 07:34 AM
The black one is the standard came on every curvy from the factory fender but yours has been cut to make it more like an undertray
This ia what the standard one would've looked like originally
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x241/dirtydog88/139e4e8850f32256d78c54763db02f76_zps46402957.jpg
The yellow one is the proper suzuki undertray where you would remove the complete black bit and fit the yellow one in its place, whereas most aftermarket undertrays require hacking bits out of the original black bit and the under tray fitting over the top.
As for differentiating between a fender and an undertray, to me a fender is the standard thing that comes with the bike and an undertray is an option to tidy up the rear of the bike by getting rid of the big ugly black bit etc
Ahhhh, gotcha. To me a fender is a fairly American word so I don't really use it apart from talking about guitars! They're pretty much the same thing then, but the yellow one is a Suzuki option to replace the standard affair?
dirtydog
07-07-13, 12:30 PM
Yep, it's slightly better looking than the standard one
Drat, I could do with a black one! Will have to get looking, I think.
Thanks for the input :D
Drat, I could do with a black one! Will have to get looking, I think.
Thanks for the input :D
Paint!
Paint!
You're not the first person to suggest that :D
It's tempting, but the yellow undertray has all the right-hand bolt holes snapped off and it's held on with a bracket. But you guys may have a point...
OK, on to Thursday's work!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1040166_10151451537631717_382151870_o.jpg
Huzzah!! Black fuel tank fixed and connected up, radiator in, connected rad fan, horn & filled coolant.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1053059_10151451537641717_370030741_o.jpg
Another shot. Because it looks good and I'm pleased :).
Battery & seats are also on. The observant viewer might've noticed one of those.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1040316_10151451537671717_953140552_o.jpg
SO. The dash. LEDs. Yes. Three of the notification bulbs out, seven ultrabright white LEDs and three blue LEDs. Blues for the dials, whites for notification lights with three extra in case the blue lighting looks waff.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1053265_10151451537821717_579960221_o.jpg
Dash is off (four 8mm nuts), swapping out the notification bulbs for white LEDs. The light grey holder is the indicator light which I can't swap out for an LED as current flows both ways through it depending on which side indicators are operating.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/965631_10151451537856717_46823979_o.jpg
A bulb in a holder! RIVETING! This is what 7 watt dash bulbs look like :clown:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1065134_10151454134386717_447464770_o.jpg
Testing the polarity of the white notification LEDs again. All of them go in with the lil' diode on the left side apart from the main beam light, which is reversed, and the indicators 'cos they don't work with an LED in.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1053132_10151451537886717_814635567_o.jpg
Had to take the back off to get to the three dial bulb holders. One on the outside of either dial and one in the middle. Cunning.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1048682_10151451537951717_1116035608_o.jpg
This is a blue LED, in the holder, about to go in.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1053438_10151451537986717_745566091_o.jpg
And THIS is why we change dash bulbs - they fog up over time, usually due to prolonged exposure to heat, and go crap. GET OUT!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1064937_10151451538021717_1816797343_o.jpg
Thought I'd pull the dash pod out for a laugh. That's what it looks like.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1052541_10151451538086717_2088635337_o.jpg
Putting the dash back together, making sure that the gasket is all aligned proper, like.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1048074_10151451538141717_1622748497_o.jpg
Daylight LED test. The notification LEDs are so bright they change the colour of the light up a few shades. That 'N' neutral notification light should be a rich green colour, not a pale light green. Also, the middle of the dials are brighter than the outside, so the outside LEDs aren't working and need to be taken out, turned 180 degrees and bunged back in - they're in around the wrong way. Bah.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1008944_10151451538191717_1501634870_o.jpg
Lights off, neutral & OMG GET SOME PETROL FFS lights on. Not sure if I'm down with these light-coloured notifiers.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1048189_10151451538256717_1555309563_o.jpg
I turned those bad boys right around and the dials are brighter. SCORE. Swapped the notifiers back to bulbs and they look a lot richer. So far, I win.
LEFT TO DO: front fairing, bleed front brakes, rearsets (footpegs & exhaust hanger), final checks and engine test.
Will finish off Thursday's work when I get back later. I've since swapped the LEDs back into the dash as I tested them again once the dash shroud was on with it's smoked filter over the notification lights. Looked better. :)
Continuing...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1048050_10151451684831717_1188977955_o.jpg
Connected up the rad fan & horn to the loom. Mystery white connector...?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1064865_10151451684836717_783370525_o.jpg
THERE YOU ARE, on the knackered SV it connects into...something. Apparently some bikes have carb warmers...could be that?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1053001_10151451684826717_399591824_o.jpg
Yup...deffo the carb warmer. I wonder if running an SV without one will cause an issue with starting when it gets colder?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1049130_10151451684911717_445695146_o.jpg
Got a proper shot of the dash in the garage with the door closed. Very pleased!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1039905_10151451684936717_21687480_o.jpg
The other dash with the original lighting. I laugh in it's general direction! (In it's defence it does look like the middle bulb is knackered)
And that finishes Thursday's work! Any feedback or constructive criticism is welcome.
Friday was a good day...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1064587_10151453081321717_767639353_o.jpg
HOKAY. SO. Two problems so far; the bast wouldn't start when I tried it yesterday with either battery and I've got no oil pressure light on the dash. Charged both batteries over night and well she started first time this afternoon, which made me move it out of the garage sharpish!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1047957_10151453081306717_1301407941_o.jpg
Just showing off in the sun now! The bike was actually running at this point, delighting me and undoubtedly dismaying my neighbours with my revving to make sure it was running smoothly unlike my poor other bike. A few bangs and pops but then without the airbox filtering the air it was running a bit lean. I was just happy that it started!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1048749_10151453081311717_23367261_o.jpg
Airbox fitted back in, tank lowered, seats on! I busted out the paddock stands that were kindly provided with the bike so that I could check the oil level with the bike upright. Like I thought, there's a good amount of oil in there, still no oil pressure light though, even though the connections all look fine.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1040306_10151453081476717_151466976_o.jpg
At this point I left my new black bike chillin' with some rays and went to double check that my old bike's oil pressure light still worked with the front fairings, sidelight & indicators off. I didn't think that the oil light had anything to do with those connections but once something daft occurs to me I find that I have to confirm that it's a silly thing and strike it from my mind. Of course, ...the other bike's rear subframe had no rear fairing or undertray on it so I had nowhere to put the frickin' battery to test the dash! On goes the undertray, on go the rear plastics, in goes the battery and FFS, the oil light works, so it should be working on the other bike too. But beh, I'd started so I had to finish; I cleaned up the fuel tank to put it on the bike for the first time. Here's the tank level sensor, fuel tap & vacuum spigot. But wait...(and excuse the hair!)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1040219_10151453081516717_1163602030_o.jpg
...WTF is this?!? The tank's sat about off of the bike for long enough for some crusty hard gunk to have either built up and blocked the vacuum spigot (the lil' pipe on top of the diaphragm block) or it's been blocked intentionally. Now, the fuel outlet is kept sealed by a diaphragm in that block until the action of starting the engine creates a vacuum in the carbs connected to the vacuum line which in turn pulls the diaphragm down and allows the fuel to flow out into the carbs to be metered into the engine. Clever and simple. I figured that the pipe hadn't been blocked intentionally and the diaphragm bypassed/removed due to the simple fact that the fuel was still inside the tank and not peeing out all over my garage floor.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1048367_10151453081501717_1489077256_o.jpg
So I took a pin-drill to that crap and the pipe was soon clear. On goes the tank and out comes the cloth keeping crap out of the carbs...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1040063_10151453081616717_1175950250_o.jpg
And out comes the yellow SV650S! ENJOY THE SUN, MY BEE-LIKE STEED, etc.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1040471_10151453081661717_1327991317_o.jpg
There's all three 'steel horses' together. Just chillin'.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1048770_10151453081676717_1942107258_o.jpg
I then realised that there was nothing keeping me from actually putting the rest of the yellow fairings back onto my old bike! So on they went, that left one nearest the camera was an utter, utter el *******o to get lined up. However, I win.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1048292_10151453081741717_2108237360_o.jpg
There you go, one 95% complete Suzuki SV650S in yellow. It's just a shame that the engine seems to have been mullered by some mongpiece running the engine low on oil and/or wheelieing it a lot. NICE WORK, MATE. Blergh.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1048138_10151453081766717_295449886_o.jpg
And there's the steeds back in the garage. Cheerio! Need to sort out that oil light...
STILL TO DO: oil pressure light FFS, rearsets, flush and bleed front brakes, could probably do with replacing the oil and filter too...while pulling the pressure sensor out otherwise I'll end up with oil all over the floor :E Oh, and to replace the left switchgear when the new one turns up - the thing's done up tight enough to deform it slightly and it still rotates around the clip-on. Locating lugs please! Thx.
Saturday was some minor tidying up...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1052930_10151454134371717_1337834421_o.jpg
Replaced the left hand switches for one that has a locating lug as the one on there just kept moving about even with the strews done up so tight they deformed the plastic a tad. Oddly, both the left and right switch gears connect into the right-hand front loom and not each on their own side as I'd expect. Right-hand front loom plugs, the yellow connector is the left switches.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1048640_10151454134356717_916009569_o.jpg
Left-hand front loom connectors, these go back to the rest of the bike so I assume that they're all the running functions like main power feed, current regulation/rectification, rear lights & indicators, carb warmers, oil pressure sensor, fuel tank level sensor, gearbox neutral sensor, that kinda stuff.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1053242_10151454134521717_308237916_o.jpg
YES, by Toutatis! A replacement left-hand switch-gear with locating lug! Into the hole it goes and stays put. *unf*
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/616744_10151454134576717_1438716281_o.jpg
By unscrewing the oil pressure sensor wire from the oil sensor and earthing it against the engine I discovered that my dash LED works fine but my pressure switch is ballsed. Without the need to faff about with the dash any longer, on goes the dash shroud.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1047894_10151454134641717_1522385484_o.jpg
Testing out the new LEDs now that they're behind the tinted shroud. Still visible in direct sunlight, great success as expected :D
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1053457_10151454134906717_1520210496_o.jpg
After the shroud on goes the front fairing!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1063705_10151454134921717_1341146067_o.jpg
A previous owner thought that a purple double-bubble screen (that's bigger than the original screen to normal people) would be a fine idea and I don't disagree! A quick LED test in the purpley shade and still all good!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1049035_10151454134991717_830722977_o.jpg
No more faffing with lights! On goes the left fairing and indicator.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/859103_10151454135136717_191607466_o.jpg
Followed by the right fairing and indicator, naturally.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1053451_10151454135071717_383602444_o.jpg
I LIED! There IS more faffing with lights because I'm a secret tart! In the shade of the garage with the main beam headlamps on; you can see the dial illumination & the bulb-driven indicator light surrounded by the brighter LED driven lights.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1052427_10151454135261717_1961659634_o.jpg
Without the lights or main beam on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1048210_10151454135311717_636655944_o.jpg
And that was enough for Saturday, I'm in danger of getting a tan! Back in the garage they go and off to the internet I go to find an oil pressure switch.
STILL TO DOOOO: oil pressure switch, oil change & filter change, bleed front brakes, fit wing mirrors and mirror fixing covers, fit rearsets.
Getting there :) I'm also considering swapping the wheels between the two bikes so they retain their originals. Annoyingly I think that the front tyre on the silver wheel from the was-yellow bike has a better front tyre than the gunmetal wheel that I want to swap over but the rear tyres are pretty much the same. I need to change the fork seals on the now-yellow bike so I may see if I can get the tyres swapped over then?
And now this is up to date.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/IMG_20130711_071508_zps97ed544b.jpg
Oil pressure switch arrived yesterday, let's hope this one works! Also ordered me a pair of Progrip gel grips as the Renthal grips I have are more suited to the Renthal bars I'm not using. Further down the line I'm looking to get a set of R&G crash-bungs and bar-ends, I'm not dealing with those phallic chrome ends! Oil, filter & sensor change tonight and that should set my oil light woes to rest...
Pricey12
11-07-13, 10:26 AM
Good job :)
Thanks! I just need to resit my Mod1 in two week's time and get my Mod2 done ASAP and I'll actually be able to ride the bike to the MOT station!
:-({|=
Ha i love that you have 2 bikes you cant ride!! Worse than my one...altho only another few weeks :)
Thanks! lol It's blimmin' frustrating but I stuck it to The Man properly tonight by riding my SV out of the garage onto the driveway to do the oil change! Yeah. :thumbsup:
I see you're in a similar boat with a Gixxer? :drink:
Tonight's work:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/IMG_20130711_192813_zps3c9f5ee9.jpg
RIGHTO. Oil, pressure sensor switch, filter: all check. Front forks up on paddock stand to keep the bike level (sloping driveway!), upright (grrrr sidestand!) and immobile. After almost herniating myself getting the sump bolt undone ("Do not overtighten" the Haynes manual says, LOL) the bolt is out, followed by 2.3 litres of hot oil. Thankfully over the years I've mastered the art of getting my hand OUT of the way and NOT dropping the slippery sump plug into a cauldron of medieval pain.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/IMG_20130711_193715_zpse2da1b95.jpg
The cause of my major worry. Without a working oil pressure switch I have no way of telling...if the oil is up to pressure and getting to where it needs to be. Because oil not getting to where it's needed is how SV650 crankshafts and bearings die and I already have a bike with an engine like that. It sucks.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/IMG_20130711_194639_zpsf522cfde.jpg
OI, WHAT?! In goes the 'new' pressure sensor, which actually looks like it's in worse knick than the old one, and it only works! SCORE. See that red light? Yeah, that's the light of victory (or "Hit the killswitch, your engine is eating itself" light, depending on the situation).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/IMG_20130711_194722_zps6ff8d813.jpg
And there it is, the oil pressure sensor, all cleaned and connected up. For the record, it needs a really annoying 24mm socket. Like a div I still don't have a filter wrench but I managed to 'encourage' the old filter off with my only pair of adjustable pliers and considerable torque without breaking it so that ended well anyway.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/IMG_20130711_195119_zps96aa2ae5.jpg
New 10-40w fully synth oil and K&N oil filter. The 14mm oojit on the filter thankfully denies me the pliers-fuelled drama to tightening it back on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/IMG_20130711_200214_zps92dfad1d.jpg
Time for a brief break in the success to put out a call to find out that the hell these things are. They kinda fell out of the bike when it was still in bits and I've not yet worked out what they're for or where they go. The bike was used for racing and they seem drilled so I'm assuming they were lock-wired in place to keep something secure but I've no idea what.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/IMG_20130711_201630_zpsd8d19582.jpg
Sensor tightened up, cover in place and filter torqued in.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/IMG_20130711_201816_zpsd49fa8fe.jpg
Oil is in, engine run (at 8pm, sorry neighbours!) and level re-checked then topped up. W00t, all done there!
TO DO: front brakes, bar grips, rearsets, maybe spray yellow undertray black, fix it a bit and swap 'em over.
Thats not fully synth oil! ;) That is the standard castrol semi synthetic. Looking good though, give you a bit of motivation to pass your test with flying colours! Good luck!!
Hmmmm. You're probably right! I had it in the garage, cracked the seal and did the work but I'd bought it weeks ago for my 125. I had to do a quick look on Google to match the bottle to semi or fully and it came up as fully synth. Taking another look however shows a mix of results with the same container so it's probably semi-synth :)
And thanks! Infuriatingly I got a clean sheet with no minors for my Mod1 apart from turning too sharply on my 2nd fig of eight and instead of revving up and weighting the outside peg I put my foot down. So damn annoyed.
Yup i will have my restriction lifted on the 18th of aug :)
If that bolt had the hole at the other end it would lookk like a banjo bolt, but like that im unsure...
Just over a month, man!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Gumph/soon-goose_zps15e02e5b.jpg
Haha!!
Aye, these bolts are completely hollow threaded sleeves with a nut on - they're not banjo bolts as I know them...
wideguy
13-07-13, 11:45 AM
I've never seen bolts like those anywhere on a motorcycle. They don't actually look like motorcycle hardware to me... maybe the previous owner just scooped up some loose fasteners and threw them in the bin?
Hmmmm. Possibly, thanks for taking a look!
Yesterday's work:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1074257_10151471338371717_2066977398_o.jpg
Finally bothered to sort out the front brakes, it's not they're important or anything. Dot 5.1 brake fluid, a valved tube and an empty water bottle were the weapons for this battle, thus armed were the brakes brought up to operational levels. One hose was off when I got the bike so that was full of air after being fitted which had to go. Off comes the brake reservoir lid and out comes the diaphragm (no giggling at the back!) and the brake fluid is topped up. The tube is attached to the bleed nipple (stop that!) and the other end with the valve is plonked into the empty water bottle with some brake fluid in as a precaution against more air being sucked back into the brake calliper/line. A very boring period of pumping (stop!) the brake lever a lot followed by holding it in (I give up) and then releasing the calliper bleed nipple (beh) to expel the old fluid and any air into the bottle before doing the nippsie back up, releasing the lever and repeating. Then doing the same on the other front calliper. And then repeating each. No pictures. Very boring. And messy.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1025924_10151471340271717_392602722_o.jpg
Caliper bleed nipple (teehee) with the dust cover removed. Works with an 8mm spanner, a spanner that I didn't have, nor could I find my adjustables so I had to get by using my pair of long-handled griplock pliers which were slightly overkilly. Ow. The brakes work, but I'll do the process again with a spanner to get a better response.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1009193_10151471342006717_1818273804_o.jpg
Dot 5.1 brake fluid. Looks like iffy pee, it isn't. It horrible stuff best kept off of hands, paint, wheels...everything it's not supposed to be on or in really. It's also flammable. Nasty stuff. Apparently 5.1 fluid is designed for ABS so I assume that it's just a higher grade of fluid that will work fine in a normal system.
I didn't do any work on the bike today, I just had the urge to wander down and look at the dash LEDs in that dark. I did. That's it for today. :)
It's thinner than DOT 4 and IIRC more hydroscopic so should be changed more regular. I have a new bottle sat in the garage of this stuff
Looking good mate. I wish this thread was around a few months ago when I was rebuilding mine, my photos were crap!
Got some work done today while the weather wasn't too hot...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1085108_10151491930051717_482242502_o.jpg
TWO jobs to do today, yes, two! Firstly, the grip over the throttle tube needed sorting out and secondly the rear wheels on the bikes still needed swapping over.
The OEM Suzuki grip that came off fitted over a bunch of raised plastic edges to keep it in place and stop it rotating on the tube. The Progrips that replaced the OEM set didn't have notches cut into them to go over the raised plastic and so couldn't go over them, leaving the plastic showing next to the switch gear. Unacceptable! I took a dremel and cutting disc to the raised parts, got most of them off, put the dremel down and in doing so snapped the cutting disc in half. WALLY. Replaced it with a small grinding disc and finished the job of mullering the raised edge into oblivion. Not pretty, but...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1084945_10151491932621717_399668582_o.jpg
...when the grip is on properly you can't see the chewed plastic! WIN. Hybrid Progrip gel grips, we'll see if they help with the numb fingers. We'll see!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1009214_10151491929556717_2087763497_o.jpg
Grip mullered and fitted, now for the other end of the bike(s). Fortunately I have two rear paddock stands so this was a doddle, way easier than swapping the front wheels. No mishaps at all! Up goes the rear (weheeyyy!) on the stand and on goes the 22mm spanner onto the axle nut.
NOTE: Observe the object below the wheel taking the weight off of the axle: a stack of old FHM & Bizarre mags in an old pillowcase. Absolutely perfect for propping up wheels and the like; adding and removing mags changes the height of the wheel and turning the wheel grips the pillowcase and drags it under into position. Genius, I am.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1082061_10151491931511717_955290085_o.jpg
I marked the position of the axle plates with duct-tape so I'd know if the wheel was correctly position upon refitting. Turns out that the Allen bolt on the back of the swing-arm you can see facing the camera is an adjustable stop for the axle so as long as the wheel is pulled back to it on both sides when refitting it's pretty much in the same place as when it came off.
I had to gently tap the axle bolt through using a hammer with a t-shirt cushioning the bolt but out it came...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1039639_10151491932191717_1455754803_o.jpg
...And the wheel comes off. After pulling the axle bolt through I had to push the wheel forward to relax and un-hook the drive-chain. The other bit handing down next to the stand is the rear brake calliper, it's bracket forms part of the rear axle so with the axle out there's nothing to hold the calliper up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1077218_10151491931131717_1691347132_o.jpg
The wheel from the other bike finally rejoins it's front-brother and black plastics on the new bike. The wheel is cleaned, hoinked up onto the Magpile Pillowcase™ and the chain hooked back over the sprocket. The calliper is moved back up onto the disc in-line with the axle path and in goes the spacer between the wheel bearing and calliper bracket, completing the axle path. The axle bolt is given a generous coating of copper grease and is tapped back through the axle path, gently. Pull the wheel back so that the sliding axle plates on either side touch the black tape, on goes the washer and nut and torque up to 65nm. Spin the wheel to test and it spins all nice and freely! Yay!
DONE!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1077310_10151491928981717_1442275286_o.jpg
The old Now Yellow Bike with the silver wheels on that originally were matched with the yellow plastics and tank.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1073229_10151491930671717_1161839927_o.jpg
Yup, silver wheels back with the yellow plastics. Tartier angle.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1074662_10151491933646717_544253530_o.jpg
New Now Black Bike with it's gunmetal wheels back on. Rejoice!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1077705_10151491933181717_1233918005_o.jpg
Black bike, gunmetal wheels, jaunty angle.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/976759_10151491928416717_613418116_o.jpg
I've noticed recently that after wheeling the black bike out of the garage, the yellow bike feels a lot heavier to move in comparison. I thought that the rear brake was binding, but I couldn't hear the usual light scraping sound that accompanies moving a wheel with brake pads resting on the brake discs.
I found out part of the problem when I went to undo the rear axle on the yellow bike and almost snapped my fingers off pulling on the spanner - some muppet had completely ignored the torque figures for tightening the axle bolt back up and had recruited Popeye in to help. I had to lean on the rear seat while pulling up on the spanner to keep the bike on the stand 'cos the damn rear axle was done up so tight I could barely move it, fortunately my Herculean physique (lol) prevailed and the nut budged before my mine did in the form of another hernia. The problem with over-tightening the rear axle to this extent is that I think the wheel, spacer & calliper bracket all get pinched together between the swing-arm causing resistance on the axle when the wheel wants to turn. Clearly the rear brake pads didn't like this arrangement either, when I went to refit the wheel on the yellow bike I noticed this single chunk of brake bad just lying in the calliper. New rear pads, then. Balls.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1091194_10151491927961717_1699655233_o.jpg
Part of that last caption was A MASSIVE LIE! Ha! When I was tidying up after putting the bikes away I noticed that not one but two parts of a brake pad were lying on the floor! Clearly this pad material had been in trouble and separate of the pad itself for a while; they'd all rusted up on the backing material which would, apart from the axle being way too tight, have caused the fragments to press against the brake disc, slowing the wheel down further. It's not a problem now!
FFS, I know that good ones aren't cheap (no comments at the back plx) but for the love of Odin I wish that people would use a bloody torque wrench!
TO DO: Sort out undertray & numberplate situation & that's...about it?
Got some R&G bar-ends & crash-bungs on order too :)
Lovely thread. And rather invaluable to me, since I just got a 99 curvy 3 weeks ago and plan to spend a good deal of time during winter fixing/improving bits here 'n there.
Can't wait until the next update - please make it quick. ;)
Not a problem mate, I'm hoping that my work helps someone :)
I'll do another update for the undertray and when my R&G parts turn up but apart from that the black bike doesn't need much else done...as far as I know! The yellow bike needs the clutch perch sorted out as the tightening bolt snapped off and needs drilling & an engine replacement. I might LED up that dash too, just to see what orange looks like, for example...
Today's work:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1026277_10151501674591717_1731444920_o.jpg
Awwww YEEAAH! My R&G order turned up... :D
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1102609_10151501673881717_1104420109_o.jpg
Slightly blurry R&G haul! Four LED indicator resistors for future use as they were well cheaper than from eBay. Handlebar end sliders, sticker sheet that 1) obviously makes the bike faster 2) corner better & 3) reduces damage sustained when #1 outweighs #2, mini-torch key-ring and most importantly R&G crash bungs to save my fairings if/when my bike ends up on it's side somewhere.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1073918_10151501674476717_1534718597_o.jpg
First up, those chuffin' 'orrible bar-ends have to go! There's the R&G item next to the current.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/922406_10151501674381717_2038987150_o.jpg
On it goes! Much better.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1094004_10151501674411717_1533990331_o.jpg
Vast improvement and still carrying some weight to help dampen bar vibration. Thanks R&G!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1146858_10151501674051717_1497914089_o.jpg
Crash bungs unpacked. New engine mount bar with a thread at either end, one bung bracket per side, two bungs & packet of washers and bolts.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1078837_10151501674331717_157379937_o.jpg
Completely unpacked and arranged as per fitment to the bike. The spacer sleeve on the lower left is the wrong side of the bracket but whatever!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/242445_10151501674221717_323579662_o.jpg
The old engine mount bar was a right bast to get undone, but it lost the battle! I think it was a 17mm socket on the nut and 14 or 17mm on the head. In goes the stainless R&G bar...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1077810_10151501674166717_418073561_o.jpg
Left side, engine bar needs to be tapped through a bit more up to the start of the thread.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1119990_10151501673791717_1881003079_o.jpg
Right side bracket bolted on with a T50 hex, engine bar to be secured.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1097642_10151501673821717_1982872143_o.jpg
Left side bracket & sleeve bolted in place. Engine bar to be secured.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1097854_10151501673931717_1216596531_o.jpg
Right bracket all done! 17mm socket for the captive nut I think.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1146424_10151501674266717_1035115425_o.jpg
Left side bracket done!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1097244_10151501673986717_1787475681_o.jpg
Right side finished! It's a 14mm socket, I used a deep socket first but the bolt just kept moving up into the socket when I tried to get it started in the thread. A shallow/normal socket fixed it!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1094692_10151501674686717_1439878093_o.jpg
Left side finished!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1091048_10151501674116717_1657237083_o.jpg
Finished top view. Overall the R&G kits were completely painless to install, took about half an hour total. Got the number plate done too so the bike's all ready for an MOT! Just the rear footrests to go...
Interesting... I wonder how those crash pads would fit a fully faired curvy, such as mine?
EDIT: Ok, after a quick visit to the R&G Racing website, this is what I came up with:
http://www.rg-racing.com/RGProducts/productgallery.aspx?sku=cp0122bl&page=3
Looks like they'll fit a fully faired SV650S X just fine. ;)
Interesting... I wonder how those crash pads would fit a fully faired curvy, such as mine?
EDIT: Ok, after a quick visit to the R&G Racing website, this is what I came up with:
http://www.rg-racing.com/RGProducts/productgallery.aspx?sku=cp0122bl&page=3
Looks like they'll fit a fully faired SV650S X just fine. ;)
Yeah, from the instructions it seems that they should fit: see the PDF here (http://www.rg-racing.com/browseBike/Suzuki/SV650_Bikini/2001_(K1).aspx) where it says to lower the lower fairings onto the floor for most of the install and then fit them back up before fitting the bungs.
Pricey12
05-08-13, 10:38 AM
I need to get some R&G protection for my bike, just never seem to get round to it :rolleyes:
I'm still stuck on my CBR125 at the mo until I can fit my mod 2 in, I've had to shell out for a new set of fairings for the right-hand side as it's been on the road twice and scuffed them to merry hell. I spent more on fairings than I did on R&G parts so I'm not having to do the same for the SV! Ha!
Got the final bit of work needed for the MOT done today, all I need to now is be able to legally ride the thing!
Here's the gumph...which I'm still deciding about...
***WARNING: YOU ARE ENTERING AN ARENA OF QUESTIONABLE TASTE***
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/963856_10151524466701717_703296889_o.jpg
While flailing about online one evening I noticed that some bikes have reflective tape stuck on the rims of their wheels for added visibility at night. I figured this may be worth looking in to as the lack of a lower fairing at the front of the SV650S makes it look a bit...sparse, so coloured tape may add a bit of life to the front of the bike while making the machine a bit more visible from the side. One quick cheap purchase from the US of A later and I find myself cleaning my wheels in preparation.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1149749_10151524466481717_7662657_o.jpg
This is what turned up while I was away at Bloodstock; two sheets of the darkest purple reflective tape I could find. I almost went with black but figured it would look a bit daft on dark grey wheels.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1074289_10151524466206717_410394834_o.jpg
After cleaning the wheels, each strip needs to be cut away from it's fellows and preferably trimmed close to the strip itself so there's not so much of the covering plastic getting in the way when positioning the strip on the rim.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1120012_10151524465976717_833380362_o.jpg
And this is the same strip under my phone's pathetic flash. Doesn't really give the full effect and the daylight doesn't help.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1091051_10151524466806717_917353783_o.jpg
Peeling off the backing reveals the tape to be silver with a purple layer on one side.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/621729_10151524478016717_1843541528_o.jpg
After positioning the strip, it's pressed into place by hand with the plastic covering keeping the different parts in position.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1008690_10151524465886717_686571138_o.jpg
...and then the cover is peeled off and hopefully the strip stays on the wheel and not the plastic you're peeling. That's pretty much it!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1102554_10151524466356717_541255187_o.jpg
I tried to get the strips three to a wheel centered on each spoke. Still not sure about the style though...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1091105_10151524466636717_650017574_o.jpg
A close-up shot with the flash on. I'm pleased to see that the strips do actually reflect light as they're supposed to! One point to the strips!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1097136_10151526075341717_1665464336_o.jpg
Also did one side of the rear wheel.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1096985_10151526074561717_1501945414_o.jpg
And there you have it! I've only one side of each wheel at the moment as I don't know if I'll be keeping them on. I like that it's noticable but slightly more subtle than if they were continous solid strips all the way around the rim. I like the colour too, it seems to match the screen even if the grips are a slightly lighter shade...still, it's not like you get a load of choice with purple!
Hmmmm.
I had to order a set of four M8 (1.25mm x 20mm if anyone needs to know what the footrest bolts are) ally allen bolts for my rear footrests which are on and torqued up to 23nm. As the yellow bike was supplied with a rear cowl as well as a seat there were no rear footrests. With the bike now being black and a road bike the rear seat is back on and so with it is the legal requirement for rear footrests. That's the bike all ready for an MOT though so this thread will probably be quiet for a while until an engine turns up for the now-yellow bike!
Still not sure about those strips though...
I like the full strips, not keen on those half ones myself.
No specific reason, just not to my taste. But its your bike ha ;)
Its the inevitable like/dislike debate over rim tape that will always re-surface.
My opinion? There are so many other cosmetic ways to improve the looks of this bike in preference to rim tape that imo this will either become a minor insignificance once you've started to "legally" ride the bike or you'll end up removing it.
All part of the fun though.
To me those rim tape strips made one helluva difference on this bike!
An otherwise rather anonymous/dull area of the bike has been improved vastly, both in looks aswell as safety-wise.
Well done. Definately something I will consider for my own Curvy.
NeilStevens
16-09-13, 10:19 AM
Hey Mauler
Love the purple accents! What has happened to the yellow front fairings - are they up for sale? My (previously) mint K1 has taken a tumble.
Cheers! The yellow fairings aren't for sale, they're part of the yellow bike I've just got a replacement engine for, I'm afraid.
Speaking of the yellow SV, I gots my hands on a new engine for it! Well, 'new' is a relative term...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1238015_10151592406741717_1752580592_n.jpg
So! Finally managed to source myself a SV650 engine and for half the price of the cheaper engines on eBay. The catch? It had been mayoed! Eww. For those that don't know: when something isn't doing it's job inside an engine and the coolant starts mixing with the oil they get thrashed about together and the result is the mayonnaise-like spaff you can see in the pic here. Generally it's a Bad Thing 'cos you've got water leaking into your engine machanicals meaning that you're using up coolant and mayo doesn't provide much lubrication. Causes can range from very bad (head gasket is knackered) to bloody annoying (a core plug has been lost or failed in an inaccessible place) to pretty simple (a core plug has gone in an easy to reach place).
Fortunately for me Suzuki's SV engine has it's four core plugs in astoundingly easy to reach places and the engine isn't too hard to get at or remove, compared to a modern car.
SO. I whip off the valve cover at the top of the rear cylinder head and apart from a nice collection of Hellmann's it appears that both the rear core plugs are intact and in place. (You can see them as the discs recessed above and below the spark plug in the centre).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1234191_10151592406781717_1779441069_n.jpg
And here's the same pic rotated and, because I engaged my brain, the use of the flash. Now the plugs can be seen a bit more clearly. Mmmmmm, mayo-y goodness. At least the plugs are where they should be.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1235531_10151592407211717_1285711708_n.jpg
This would be the front cylinder with the valve cover removed and oh dear. Oh deary, deary me. This just will not do: not only is the left plug on the wonk but the right one has popped out completely, allowing a load of coolant to get into the engine proper. Not cool! Core plugs can sometimes be forced out of place by freezing coolant, if the engine doesn't have enough antifreeze added. ANTIFREEZE IS GOOD IF YOU DON'T HAVE A GARAGE...like the previous owner of this engine who left his SV outside for the whole winter. Again, for the un-techy; as water freezes and becomes ice it expands and takes up more space (as demonstrated earlier in the year when Jen and I left some bottles of cider in the freezer and they shattered...I think there's a pic knocking about on one of your FBs somewhere). An engine isn't a bottle of cider but the principle is the same: a liquid freezing into a solid increases the pressure inside a sealed environment, when the pressure becomes too great, whatever is the weakest point of that environment will fail. If you're lucky, it will be a core plug forced out of it's hole, if you're unlucky it will be a section of your engine block that cracks and then you need a new engine, psych!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1234258_10151592406986717_287880941_n.jpg
A close-up of the wonky core plug. I know you guys wanted to see the cruddy goodness!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1239459_10151592407041717_1504873683_n.jpg
A closer view of the right-hand core plug, completely out of it's hole. Take a gander into the lesser-seen water jacket of the engine!
Where's the coolant? Has it:
A) Turned invisible
2) Been abducted by aliens
D) Ended up in the sump at the bottom of the engine with the oil?
I think I know which one I'd pick...fortunately the oil & coolant has all been drained out by the chap who sold me it, otherwise the damn thing would've been heavier than it already is. And that is quite heavy enough to carry about on your own.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/553018_10151592407071717_627595938_n.jpg
Both core plugs carefully removed from the cylinder head. One needed less removing than the other.
All cruddy and rusted up. Lovely. In the bin with you!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1237089_10151592407261717_1362939630_n.jpg
Replacement 16mm core plugs! £3 well spent, possibly one of the cheapest engine fixes ever! I could even afford a spare one. :P
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/545939_10151592406926717_1050187218_n.jpg
As Carcass say: TOOLS OF THE TRADE...but not forceps and blades, no, just a long 14mm socket to sit inside the core plug, a hammer to tap it in place and a long extension bar to actually give the hammer something to hit.
Tink tink tink...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/548413_10151592407141717_112463258_n.jpg
Less than ten mins later, both casting holes plugged and the valve covers are about to go back on!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/1016531_10151592406871717_242211373_n.jpg
With both covers back on the job is done! The whole process if fitting the core plugs took less time than adding these descriptions did! Ready to go in the yellow bike...but that's not this weekend!
PS - Thanks to Moby for the engine! Let's hope it's still alright! ;)
don't they use some kind of bearing lock compound on the core plugs?
Couldn't see any at all on the two that came out, it seems to depend on who you ask as to seal them or not.
well it gets hot in there and then gets cold again this causes expansion and contraction and personally i would not be happy leaving it to just an interference fit.
They're blimmin' tight in there, I don't think I could get them out with pliers without tapping to rotate them a bit first.
Point taken though, I may well get my hands on some sealent. Gasket sealent or a specific type?
no gasket sealant. i would use a bearing locking compound, like thread lock and make sure that it has gone well off before even thinking of sticking oil/fluids in there. but that's me.
i also use a 'stick type' (think pritt stick) these days as i find it less messy.
Thanks Bib, I'll angle to get some of that stuff at the weekend!
Well, it's finally time to get the ol' girl on the road, passed my Mod 2 today :D MOT incoming...
Cheers!! I took the bike out onto the street for the first time yesterday only to find that the steering was fighting me when cornering. After a few mins I turned around, put he rback in the garage and cancelled my MOT. :(
I suspect that it may be the rear wheel alignment (although at the moment when measuring from the plates to the end of the swingarm there's only 1-2mm difference from one side to the other, I don't think that would account for that much messed up steering?) or it's the scuffed-to-hell lookin' front tyre. I'm hoping to swap the SV's front wheels over later today and see if that fixes it; if it does then I need a new tyre (which I may do anyway so I'm looking at BT-23s) if it doesn't then it's either the wheel alignment or something is bent :(
OR, it's amazing how getting air in tyres will improve the handling AND make me feel like an idiot at the same time. Increased each tyre by 20psi to 33 front, 36 rear and she's fine. Must remember when going from teeny 125 wheels to 'proper' ones that just because they don't look low doesn't mean they're not.
Passed MOT today, first time, no advisories! We're all set :D
Dash LEDs - Might help in chasing down the bits people need.
I replaced my standard bulbs a year of so back when all the speedo lights had final gone - made nightriding a bit guesswork.
Dismantling the dash is a bit fiddly but not difficult. Remove fairing, take out the clocks and then open up the clock box.
The bulbs for both the warning lights and backlights are T509 fit on a curvy(mines a 2002 SK2) but I suspect they arethe same on a pointy) .
I found LEDs on this website www.crazyleds.co.uk (http://www.crazyleds.co.uk/)
They have both LEDs built into a T509 twistfit fitting http://www.crazyleds.co.uk/509T-TWIST-LOCK-LED.html (http://www.crazyleds.co.uk/509T-TWIST-LOCK-LED.html) or I bought pushfit 286 T5 LEDs to go into a T509 fitting (more colour options and a wider light spread) http://www.crazyleds.co.uk/286-T5-Capless-LED.html (http://www.crazyleds.co.uk/286-T5-Capless-LED.html) + http://www.crazyleds.co.uk/509T-twist-lock-holder..html (http://www.crazyleds.co.uk/509T-twist-lock-holder..html) The LEDs are about 60p each and the fitting 27p.
Coloured LEDs behind the warning light lenses work really well and I fitted blue backlights to the speedo/rev counter.
Plug it in and test before reassembling - if the LEDs don't light, pull then out and turn 180 deg - they only work with the current passing through in one direction.
They've been in a for about 7000mls and no sign of any hotspotting
Reassembly is reverse of stripping but be careful in reassembling the clock box so as not to trap the seal between the two bits.
Aye mate, the ordering is on the first page and the fitting and results are on the second :D
Any updates to this one? I miss it!
Thanks Nuts :D The bike is pretty much done, I do have a pair of levers for it but I'm not sure if I like the look of short levers or not. Will update as/when I fit them.
I do still have to do the engine swap and reassembly of the yellow bike so stay tuned for that now the weather's better (and I've sold my 125 & my mate's taken his Hornet back to make more room)! :)
Awesome. Looking forward to the upcoming status message.. :)
Your wish it my command! Eventually...
FINALLY got around to swapping out my original levers for a shorter cheapo pair.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/10257486_10152037291991717_2699435502621695649_o.j pg
Clutch...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Mauler/Bike%20Stuff/Bike%20Work/10255601_10152037291996717_1420658471261697395_o.j pg
...and brake.
Not much to report really: each is held on by a 10mm nut under the mount. Brake lever was first, undid the nut, removed the big screw/bolt securing the lever and it was a straight swap. In goes the screw/bolt, nut goes on finger tight, make sure the front brake and rear brake light work fine, tighten fully and retest.
The clutch lever is slightly more involved but also not really a mission; undo the nut, remove the 10mm bolt, pivot the clutch lever away from the grip so that the cable aligns with the slot in the top of the lever & pull the lever off of the cable. Seat the cable into the replacement lever, pivot the lever into position, drop the bolt back in, do up finger tight, make sure that the clutch & starter switch operate correctly then tighten fully. MAKE SURE YOU THOROUGHLY TEST THE OPERATION OF THE CLUTCH SOMEWHERE SAFE AFTER CHANGING THE LEVER and adjust if needed. Mine was only a teeny bit out.
There probably won't be any more updates for this thread until I clear some garage space (the CBR125R will finally be up for sale soon!) and start work on the yellow SV's engine swap. I hope you've all enjoyed the work so far and thanks again for the comments :)
zippie01
20-05-14, 05:23 PM
I've got the very same levers and they were a piece of cake to fit ! (They must be if I managed it !!) ;)
I've got the very same levers and they were a piece of cake to fit ! (They must be if I managed it !!) ;)
Yup, far less hassle than I was expecting :D
Matt-EUC
20-05-14, 07:11 PM
When you do the engine swap, remember the main earth. I didn't...
Sent via the medium of interpretative dance.
Nice thread enjoyed it! Good luck with the yellow curvy.
nice job!!
I have made something like that, when I have all pictures, i will made a post
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