Stretching Service Intervals

[Mako]

Well, this is a cautionary tale if there ever was one.

I picked up my SV at 21k on the clock and have been actively using it since March this year. Now, I've been meaning to service it ever since it hit 25k on the odometer. This was, admittedly, about 900 miles ago. You probably would have never met a worse example of an "I'll do it tomorrow" person like I.

Would have. No more.

My change in philosophy is, regrettably, only due to what can only be described as a sudden onset karmic catastrophe.

Lately, my clutch hadn't been disengaging properly and getting into neutral was an utter ballache. To remedy this, I'd been adjusting the cable at the lever, which would solve the problem for a bit. I had barely anything left to adjust with and I knew I should probably take a look at the clutch end of the cable... but hey, tomorrow, right?

Unfortunately, roughly three hours ago, I couldn't find neutral as I reached the head of a stationary queue. So, I'm sitting at the lights, clutch pulled in, resigned to the fact that there's no way I'm getting the bike into neutral now, when...

Clonk.

The bike inexplicably stalls and the clutch lever goes as floppy as a pensioner without a Viagra prescription. I pull back the rubber cowl to expose the cable adjustment at the lever and behold - both the locknut and the other adjusty bit (technical term in the absence of my Haynes manual) are practically falling off with the cable hanging loose.

I look down to the left side of the bike and notice the other end of the clutch cable sticking out of the fairing. Now, I'm a complete novice with the ol' mechanical stuff - I could probably operate a spanner with about as much technical dexterity as a three legged rhinoceros - but even I know something is a bit amiss here.

Turns out the bloody thing has snapped. I eventually work out how to get the bike into neutral (queue a lot of rocking back and forward with a simultaneous twitching of my foot that probably made me look like I was having a minor epileptic fit) and, sadly without breakdown insurance (ironically, there was a nice AA man in Morrisons the other week, who I of course promptly ignored when he asked if I had said breakdown insurance already), I proceed to push my poor neglected bike the two point one miles back to my girlfriend's house.

The ironic thing is, I had a service booked for tomorrow morning. I don't think I'll be pushing the service intervals much more in the future...

So, with this new found shiny resolve to learn more about motorcycle maintenance, how easy is it for a numpty like me to fit a clutch cable?

[Kwally5]

What a fascinating tale!

It is very easy to fit a new clutch cable, especially with the help of old Haynes.
By the sounds of if the cable has already detached itself from the nipple holder in your sprocket cover?

First things first I would take off your sprocket cover. It is 3, 8mm bolts holding it on.
Once that is removed you can see if there is any extra damage which has been caused.

If not and the cable is in fact still attached simply; slacken the lower 12mm lock nut so the cable is fully slack and them remove the cable nipple out of its holder (may need to pliers if it is a bit stiff).
Once the cable is removed you should be able to simply pull out of the cable holder above the sprocket area, all the way to your clutch lever. (Remember how the cable is routed for re-fitting)

At your clutch lever, fold back the rubber, wind out the adjuster screw and you should be able to feed the clutch wire out of the adjuster screw and nut and take it out of the nipple holder on your lever.

It is not so hard. So don't worry.

Fitting is the reverse of removal. Bearing in mind that the may need the slack taken out of it as it is new. To do this,wind in your clutch lever adjuster fully, adjust the 2 12mm nuts where the cable fits to near your sprocket. This gives you plenty of future adjustment on your clutch lever when needed to be adjusted. Also I would spray some white PTFE grease or just some multi-purpose lithium grease to keep the area lubed.

See....easy peasy.

However I so feel it may not just be your cable, I would have the intent to check your clutch wear as well as you have left it so long haha.

Enjoy

Kieran

[Sid Squid]

Fit the cable and then do this:


Slacken off cable adjusters at top and bottom, loosen lifter locknut, back out screw a bit, ensure that lifter arm is as far down as it will go, gently turn screw in until it contacts pushrod, back it out a bit, (~1/8th of a turn), then nip up the locknut, roughly adjust cable with lower adjuster - not too tight - then with top adjuster ensure that there remains a little slack all the way from lock to lock.
Wiggling the adjuster at the lever end does NOT adjust the clutch - it can only alter the cable slack, which is not the same.

[wideguy]

Might want to oil the new cable before you install it.

[JM2]

I'd have been so tempted to bump it in 2nd or 3rd and ride it home.
I have *never* pushed a bike 2 miles and don't expect to start now.

[Runako]

Hmmm, I may need use of this thread.

[MattCollins]

Could have ridden it home BTW...

[Spank86]

Correlation does not imply causation.

[Mr wilson]

Indeed, but espial may have followed perusal.

Shug ;);)

[Pete7]

Whilst you have the spanners out I suggest an urgent oil and filter change too, now that you have done 5k miles since buying it and the oil may not have been new then.



Pete

[Mako]

Thanks for all of the advice, guys. I nipped down to Chasbikes in London on Saturday as they had a new OEM cable in stock and had a bash at installing it on Sunday.

Here's a wee snap of what I saw when the cable snapped.

http://i43.tinypic.com/wqo4ro.png

I guess this was just wear and tear? I cracked open the clutch cover and was greeted with this beauty...

http://i40.tinypic.com/2lbcqp0.png

Loadsa beautiful muck in there... Definitely due a clean. The crud was almost half an inch thick at places. There is some oil near the chain here, which appears to be dripping from somewhere.

I gave the worst areas a cursory wipe with the promise to do a proper clean next weekend once I've gotten some bits to do a good job with. I was thinking pressure washer, bristle pad, a couple of toothbrushes and some automotive detergent? I have no idea where the oil is coming from though.

The cable itself was a doddle to fit (thanks for the tip on routing the cable by taping it to the end of the old one, Wideguy) and I greased the wotsits off of each end. The only griefy bit was prying that tab away to release the nipple at the clutch. I was terrified it was going to break off...

My only concern is that the clutch lever feels really springy. I'm not sure what the technical term is, but when it's pulled in (which it does grandly) it's really eager to go back. I guess the only way I can describe it is that it feels perfect on the way in and like a hand grip on the way out. Is this just because it's a new cable or does it need more slack somewhere? Hell, this might even be normal and I've just ridden with a crap clutch all this time.

I also did as you suggested, Pete, and changed my oil and filter. The old filter looked like it belonged in a museum! There were what I could only describe as barnacles on the filter head. The oil also looked like Coca Cola...

[Pete7]

I was thinking pressure washer, bristle pad, a couple of toothbrushes and some automotive detergent? I have no idea where the oil is coming from though. ..

Just done mine, old t shirt rags, flat blade screw drivers and a can of WD40 which is a bit more gentle than Gunk type cleaners. Worked well, but do put a flattened cardboard box down under the bike before you start to catch the mess or you will wreck the drive or garage floor and use lots of disposable gloves.

Once it's clean and dry you then stand a chance of locating the oil leak.

Pete

[Dave81]

Is it not just chain lube being flung off the front sprocket?

[Mako]

I don't think so, I use this waxy stuff in a rattle can. I stand to be corrected once I give it a clean though!

[wideguy]

If your clutch cable is clean and lubed with motor oil as it's supposed to be, what you will feel is the clutch springs trying to re-engage the clutch. You probably didn't feel this before because your cable was dry and dirty and dragging in it's housing. Periodic oiling is required for clutch and throttle cables. If not, they drag, fray and eventually break.

[yorkie_chris]

Don't pressure wash bikes!

You'll pressure wash all the water and crap straight into the chassis bearings.

[Bibio]

If your clutch cable is clean and lubed with motor oil as it's supposed to be, what you will feel is the clutch springs trying to re-engage the clutch. You probably didn't feel this before because your cable was dry and dirty and dragging in it's housing. Periodic oiling is required for clutch and throttle cables. If not, they drag, fray and eventually break.

depends on the type of cable. if you oil a lined cable with motor oil you are just asking fro trouble. new modern cables are designed to run dry adding any lubricant apart from dry film spray will just cause it to cut the liner as it acts like cutting fluid. when they worn out they are burgred and need replacing as the liner will be cut to shreds. the older and cheep cables are metal on metal and yes you need to lube those.

[wideguy]

depends on the type of cable. if you oil a lined cable with motor oil you are just asking fro trouble. new modern cables are designed to run dry adding any lubricant apart from dry film spray will just cause it to cut the liner as it acts like cutting fluid. when they worn out they are burgred and need replacing as the liner will be cut to shreds. the older and cheep cables are metal on metal and yes you need to lube those.
True, thanks for adding that point. Mako did say he picked up an OEM cable to replace his shagged (probably OEM) cable though. I suppose he should consult the maintenance manual. Are any of the OEM cables Teflon lined? Mine aren't.