DarrenSV650S
19-10-13, 10:07 PM
I have nothing to do with this blog, but it helped me a lot when I did my GSXR front end swap. So since it is no longer available, I have uploaded my saved copy for others to use:
...
EAT. RIDE. SLEEP. REPEAT
Greg Li
Seattle, WA, United States
Wednesday, June 6, 2007
GSX-R Front-End Swap Parts Compatibility
When I was putting together the parts for my fork swap, I got sick of digging through the 20+ page forum post where all the information is buried. The forum search doesn't work so well, and I found myself having to go back to find one little answer a little too often.
So, I bit the bullet, and started extracting all I could from what people had learned over those 20 pages, and compiled it into this table. Basically, each row is a part you need, and each column is a group of GSX-R models that basically share the same parts.
Find the part that you need info on, and then look up and down the column to find what's compatible. For example, say you have the '02 GSX-R1000 forks, and you want to know what wheel you can use. All of the wheels up to '06/07 are basically the same. But, you could only use 320mm rotors, since the other years don't fit. Anyway, it's right as far as I know, but I reserve the right to have made a stupid mistake somewhere. Also, I really don't know anything about the 06/07's. They have some new parts, and I haven't found much about how well they work with older ones.
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/1_zps9ab533a7.jpg
Other Notes
clip-ons
TL-1000S (any year) are the best. They fit the 50mm USD forks, have about the same rise as the stock SV-S clip-ons, and have a mounting hole for the brake M/C. They're also damn near impossible to find. Your best bet is to try the Wanted forums at tlplanet.com
CBR954/929 clip-ons also have the same rise as SV-S. They use locator tabs, so watch what upper triple you try to use it with. Unfortunately, they are much shorter than SV-S clip-ons, and don't have a hole for mounting the brake M/C bracket. They're pretty easy to find on eBay
Supposedly you can use the GSX-R clip-ons, but they'll be much lower than the SV-S ones.
The only other options are aftermarket clip-ons, like Heli-bars, Convertibars, Gilles, and LSL riser clip-ons. Unfortunately, they all cost a few hundred $$
Forks Makes
All 600/750 forks are made by Showa, and the 1000 forks are always Kayaba. Supposedly Showa is better stuff
Clip-ons comparison
I ended up buying two sets of clip-ons because I didn't like the first. I thought it'd be helpful to show the different rise of the clip-ons.
The top one is the rare Two Bros. adjustable clip-ons I ended up using
In the middle (the black ones) are CBR929/954 clip-ons. These have almost exactly the same rise as the stock SV ones. Unfortunately, the bar is much shorter, and it would be a tight squeeze fitting the grip + switchbox + lever mount all onto the bar
On the bottom are '05 GSX-R600 clip-ons.
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/2_zps5d267f99.jpg
Friday, May 18, 2007
Speedo fix for GSX-R front-end swap
One aspect of the GSX-R front end swap that isn't an easy swap-in and out is the speedometer sensor. The SV-650 uses a sensor that sits on the axle of the front wheel. The GSX-R front end requires a different axle with different spacing requirements, so the stock sensor cannot simply be transplanted.
There are a few ways I've heard of to fix this:
1. Mount a hall effect sensor and magnets to the GSX-R front end, and wire it to the original sensor cable
2. Mount the stock sensor to the rear wheel
3. Mount a sensor into the clutch assembly, like the GSX-R has
4. Buy a Veypor system that replaces your stock speedometer, and determines the speed some other way
5. Learn to live without a speedometer (and trip-meter, and odometer)
I'm not even sure #5 is legal. #4 seems only suitable for racers. #3 seems the hardest to do. #2 has problems because the rear wheel is a different diameter and will read low. So, I chose to go the #1 route, which has been done by many others in the past.
The original guy who figured out #1, Jim, is no longer really active on the SV boards anymore. He used to sell a kit that included all the necessary parts. Alas, these kits are becoming very hard to find, so I wanted to figure out how do to this with off-the-shelf parts.
The Jim Kit
Fundamentally, this is not hard to do. Basically, what you need are:
1. A suitable Hall effect sensor
2. 4 magnets
3. a way to mount the magnets to the brake rotor
4. A way to mount the Hall effect sensor to your forks
Jim's original instructions are here: http://www.socalsvriders.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=210084
The part Jim used, Digikey part CH417-ND, seems to come in and out of stock. The magnets you can find anywhere; the magnet holders on the other hand, were machined by Jim. The mounting plate for the sensor is pretty easy if you have a Dremel.
Parts I Used
1. Digikey CH398-ND is equivalent to the one Jim used, and was in stock.
2. The magnets you can buy anywhere. I got mine from Lee Valley Hardware (the 1/4" variety), part no. 99K31.01 (http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?c=&p=32065&cat=3,42363,42348&ap=1)
3. Lee Valley also has cool little magnet holders that are perfect for this application. They're not custom made for brake rotors like Jim's, but they do the job (see below), part no. 99K32.51 (http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?c=&p=32066&cat=3,42363,42348&ap=1)
4. I made the sensor mount myself, out of a 1/16" piece of aluminum from Home Depot.
5. #6-32 screws, cut down to 8mm of thread. Really, you can use any screws so long as they fit through the rotor rivet holes
6. A tap for the screws you use
Lee Valley Hardware is based in Canada, but I had no problem getting the parts shipped to the US. I think it took about a week for them to arrive. Also, the magnet holders I got were not drilled like the ones in the catalog. This worked out fine for me, since it allowed me to drill and tap them myself:
1. Drill holes
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/3_zps5949d81e.jpg
2. Tap to add threads
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/4_zps1778d111.jpg
3. The threaded holders
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/5_zpsda9c0d62.jpg
4. Shorten screws to 8mm of thread
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/6_zps56a2547a.jpg
5. Magnets added and ready to go
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/7_zps3585c30d.jpg
When mounting the magnets inside the holder, the polarity matters. All 4 magnets should be facing the same way, and you should mount them so that the magnets are attracted to the sensor. The sensor has a small magnet inside, so you'll be able to feel which way the magnets should be facing in order to be attracted to the sensor. I didn't feel there was any need to glue the magnets to the holder. They hold themselves in really well just by being attracted to the metal, but to be safe I coated the outside with a thin layer of epoxy to keep them in there.
After making the magnet mounts, I drew out a template for the sensor mount. I mounted it inside of the fender, using the front set of screws. This will mount the sensor inside of the fender so it's protected from the elements. It's kind of a pain in the ass to get to though, but it's the best place I could think of.
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/8_zps594384dc.jpg
Putting It All Together
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/9_zps38c96186.jpg
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/10_zps6bc54ef4.jpg
One thing that didn't occur to me when I was mocking this up was how I would mount the bracket once the fender was on. The problem is, once the fender and wheel are on, it's hard to fit my fingers behind the forks to tighten the nuts that hold the bracket tight. I ended up using an offset wrench and doing some crazy Spider Man stances and eventually got it tightened up, but it took a long time and a lot of patience.
If I were going to try this again, I'd probably try to use the mounting tab behind the fork instead. It's a little easier to get to once everything's on, and should be just as secure/protected.
The magnet holders fit in perfectly to the holes in the brake rotors. The sensor also mounts nicely, and puts it less than half an inch away from the magnets.
Wiring Up and Testing
This is the last step- wiring the new sensor to the old wires. I waited until everything else was installed until I did this, so I have no pics. If you can operate a soldering iron and splice wires, this should be easy for you. Basically, you need to connect the wires as follows:
SV sensor..................New sensor
Orange/red................Brown
Black/white................Blue
Pink...........................Black
These colors are correct whether you use the sensor I did, or the one Jim did. Remember to use heat shrink and protect the wires on the new sensor. Also make sure you tuck the wires away so they don't rub against the tire. The tire will go through the insulation easily and expose the wires (don't ask me how I know).
After everything was wired up, I took it out for a test spin, and everything worked great! The only thing I think I notice is that the speedo seems to be reading low. I believe this is because the GSX-R front wheel, with a 120/70 tire, is an inch or two taller than the SV wheel, but I also had not ridden in a while, so maybe it was just my perception.
It's been a week or two since I did this, and so far everything is in good shape. The magnets appear to be holding on fine, and the sensor works reliably. All in all, Jim did the hard work by figuring out what parts were needed, but hopefully what I've learned will allow others to enjoy a GSX-R front end now that his kits are no longer available.
Monday, May 14, 2007
Ask Me About My GSX-R Front-End
Before:
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/11_zps56fd67de.jpg
In Progress:
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/12_zpsf48490da.jpg
Completed:
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/13_zpsee4ab8bc.jpg
After about a month and a half of planning, buying parts, buying tools, and tweaking, my GSX-R front suspension is finally done. This will probably be the "biggest" mod I ever do to this bike. It basically involved putting the entire front end of a better bike onto mine. So, what's different now?
Adjustable suspension - this was the biggest reason for me. The stock suspension is under-damped and only adjustable for pre-load. This means that the bike bounces around a lot, and dives a lot every time I tap the brakes.
Upside-down forks - probably not so important for me, but the main difference is they're a lot stiffer and look really trick
4-pot Radial brake calipers - way more powerful than the stock ones- probably more powerful than I need, but a nice upgrade. And they look really trick ;-)
Black wheel, black fender - one day, I'll swap to a black rear wheel, buy a black hugger, and the look will be complete.
Thanks to the hard work and investigation of many other SV owners, there weren't that many unknowns involved in this conversion. There was a lot of gray area though, that I will attempt to rectify by publishing what I've learned during my conversion. Overall, the concept is simple: take the entire front end from a GSX-R and put it onto the SV. The complicated parts are with the controls, namely finding a pair of clip-ons that will work with the stock electrical, clutch and throttle cables. I had major problems with mine because they're this weird aftermarket make. In order to make everything work, a lot of finesse and quick-thinking was required. Anyway, it's all done now.
Results
My first impressions of the new equipment were:
1. damn, these brakes are amazing, and
2. wow, my front end doesn't dive every time I slow down!
First, the brakes are just incredible. I re-used the master cylinder from the SV (the part that you press on to brake) as well as my stainless steel line kit, so the only parts that are really new are the calipers (the things with brake pads that clamp down on the wheel to stop it). Either they are just made to a way tighter spec, or I did the best brake job EVER. I think it's the calipers. I barely need to squeeze the brake lever to start slowing down, and if I squeeze with moderate pressure, I start slowing down real fast. Originally I was worried that the stock master cylinder wouldn't handle these new brakes properly, and I'd be squeezing the lever all the way into the bar in order to get proper braking action. Nothing could be further from the truth. I barely squeeze down and I'm already stopped. In fact, they're so sensitive that I was slowing down before the lever moved enough to trip the brake light switch. So, essentially I was braking but my brake lights weren't turning on. I had to grind down the brake lever in order to remedy this.
The other, major, major thing I noticed right away is that the front end doesn't dive anymore. The old SV suspension is really weak- every time I decelerated slightly, the front suspension would compress and cause my body to shift forward slightly. When I braked hard, it was really bad, to the point where I felt like I was bottoming out the suspension. In a way, it was good because it taught me to be smooth with the brakes and throttle, not not upset the front end. On the other hand, it was really disconcerting if I had to brake hard before turning, because the suspension would be moving around everywhere.
With the new suspension, I notice the front end barely moves under normal riding. At first it was weird because I was used to the diving action. But, now that I've adjusted, it's really nice to not have your entire body thrown forward every time you tap on the brakes. I've done quite a bit of riding recently to test my new forks. From looking at dirt pattern on the tubes, I can tell I'm still using a lot of fork travel. The difference is, I don't notice it as much, because it only happens under heavy braking, and the motion is more gradual. This, I believe, is the way things are supposed to be.
From here, I'll be learning to tune and adjust my suspension, now that I actually have an adjustable suspension. So far, I can tell what's wrong, but not always how to adjust for it. Soon...
...
EAT. RIDE. SLEEP. REPEAT
Greg Li
Seattle, WA, United States
Wednesday, June 6, 2007
GSX-R Front-End Swap Parts Compatibility
When I was putting together the parts for my fork swap, I got sick of digging through the 20+ page forum post where all the information is buried. The forum search doesn't work so well, and I found myself having to go back to find one little answer a little too often.
So, I bit the bullet, and started extracting all I could from what people had learned over those 20 pages, and compiled it into this table. Basically, each row is a part you need, and each column is a group of GSX-R models that basically share the same parts.
Find the part that you need info on, and then look up and down the column to find what's compatible. For example, say you have the '02 GSX-R1000 forks, and you want to know what wheel you can use. All of the wheels up to '06/07 are basically the same. But, you could only use 320mm rotors, since the other years don't fit. Anyway, it's right as far as I know, but I reserve the right to have made a stupid mistake somewhere. Also, I really don't know anything about the 06/07's. They have some new parts, and I haven't found much about how well they work with older ones.
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/1_zps9ab533a7.jpg
Other Notes
clip-ons
TL-1000S (any year) are the best. They fit the 50mm USD forks, have about the same rise as the stock SV-S clip-ons, and have a mounting hole for the brake M/C. They're also damn near impossible to find. Your best bet is to try the Wanted forums at tlplanet.com
CBR954/929 clip-ons also have the same rise as SV-S. They use locator tabs, so watch what upper triple you try to use it with. Unfortunately, they are much shorter than SV-S clip-ons, and don't have a hole for mounting the brake M/C bracket. They're pretty easy to find on eBay
Supposedly you can use the GSX-R clip-ons, but they'll be much lower than the SV-S ones.
The only other options are aftermarket clip-ons, like Heli-bars, Convertibars, Gilles, and LSL riser clip-ons. Unfortunately, they all cost a few hundred $$
Forks Makes
All 600/750 forks are made by Showa, and the 1000 forks are always Kayaba. Supposedly Showa is better stuff
Clip-ons comparison
I ended up buying two sets of clip-ons because I didn't like the first. I thought it'd be helpful to show the different rise of the clip-ons.
The top one is the rare Two Bros. adjustable clip-ons I ended up using
In the middle (the black ones) are CBR929/954 clip-ons. These have almost exactly the same rise as the stock SV ones. Unfortunately, the bar is much shorter, and it would be a tight squeeze fitting the grip + switchbox + lever mount all onto the bar
On the bottom are '05 GSX-R600 clip-ons.
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/2_zps5d267f99.jpg
Friday, May 18, 2007
Speedo fix for GSX-R front-end swap
One aspect of the GSX-R front end swap that isn't an easy swap-in and out is the speedometer sensor. The SV-650 uses a sensor that sits on the axle of the front wheel. The GSX-R front end requires a different axle with different spacing requirements, so the stock sensor cannot simply be transplanted.
There are a few ways I've heard of to fix this:
1. Mount a hall effect sensor and magnets to the GSX-R front end, and wire it to the original sensor cable
2. Mount the stock sensor to the rear wheel
3. Mount a sensor into the clutch assembly, like the GSX-R has
4. Buy a Veypor system that replaces your stock speedometer, and determines the speed some other way
5. Learn to live without a speedometer (and trip-meter, and odometer)
I'm not even sure #5 is legal. #4 seems only suitable for racers. #3 seems the hardest to do. #2 has problems because the rear wheel is a different diameter and will read low. So, I chose to go the #1 route, which has been done by many others in the past.
The original guy who figured out #1, Jim, is no longer really active on the SV boards anymore. He used to sell a kit that included all the necessary parts. Alas, these kits are becoming very hard to find, so I wanted to figure out how do to this with off-the-shelf parts.
The Jim Kit
Fundamentally, this is not hard to do. Basically, what you need are:
1. A suitable Hall effect sensor
2. 4 magnets
3. a way to mount the magnets to the brake rotor
4. A way to mount the Hall effect sensor to your forks
Jim's original instructions are here: http://www.socalsvriders.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=210084
The part Jim used, Digikey part CH417-ND, seems to come in and out of stock. The magnets you can find anywhere; the magnet holders on the other hand, were machined by Jim. The mounting plate for the sensor is pretty easy if you have a Dremel.
Parts I Used
1. Digikey CH398-ND is equivalent to the one Jim used, and was in stock.
2. The magnets you can buy anywhere. I got mine from Lee Valley Hardware (the 1/4" variety), part no. 99K31.01 (http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?c=&p=32065&cat=3,42363,42348&ap=1)
3. Lee Valley also has cool little magnet holders that are perfect for this application. They're not custom made for brake rotors like Jim's, but they do the job (see below), part no. 99K32.51 (http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?c=&p=32066&cat=3,42363,42348&ap=1)
4. I made the sensor mount myself, out of a 1/16" piece of aluminum from Home Depot.
5. #6-32 screws, cut down to 8mm of thread. Really, you can use any screws so long as they fit through the rotor rivet holes
6. A tap for the screws you use
Lee Valley Hardware is based in Canada, but I had no problem getting the parts shipped to the US. I think it took about a week for them to arrive. Also, the magnet holders I got were not drilled like the ones in the catalog. This worked out fine for me, since it allowed me to drill and tap them myself:
1. Drill holes
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/3_zps5949d81e.jpg
2. Tap to add threads
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/4_zps1778d111.jpg
3. The threaded holders
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/5_zpsda9c0d62.jpg
4. Shorten screws to 8mm of thread
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/6_zps56a2547a.jpg
5. Magnets added and ready to go
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/7_zps3585c30d.jpg
When mounting the magnets inside the holder, the polarity matters. All 4 magnets should be facing the same way, and you should mount them so that the magnets are attracted to the sensor. The sensor has a small magnet inside, so you'll be able to feel which way the magnets should be facing in order to be attracted to the sensor. I didn't feel there was any need to glue the magnets to the holder. They hold themselves in really well just by being attracted to the metal, but to be safe I coated the outside with a thin layer of epoxy to keep them in there.
After making the magnet mounts, I drew out a template for the sensor mount. I mounted it inside of the fender, using the front set of screws. This will mount the sensor inside of the fender so it's protected from the elements. It's kind of a pain in the ass to get to though, but it's the best place I could think of.
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/8_zps594384dc.jpg
Putting It All Together
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/9_zps38c96186.jpg
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/10_zps6bc54ef4.jpg
One thing that didn't occur to me when I was mocking this up was how I would mount the bracket once the fender was on. The problem is, once the fender and wheel are on, it's hard to fit my fingers behind the forks to tighten the nuts that hold the bracket tight. I ended up using an offset wrench and doing some crazy Spider Man stances and eventually got it tightened up, but it took a long time and a lot of patience.
If I were going to try this again, I'd probably try to use the mounting tab behind the fork instead. It's a little easier to get to once everything's on, and should be just as secure/protected.
The magnet holders fit in perfectly to the holes in the brake rotors. The sensor also mounts nicely, and puts it less than half an inch away from the magnets.
Wiring Up and Testing
This is the last step- wiring the new sensor to the old wires. I waited until everything else was installed until I did this, so I have no pics. If you can operate a soldering iron and splice wires, this should be easy for you. Basically, you need to connect the wires as follows:
SV sensor..................New sensor
Orange/red................Brown
Black/white................Blue
Pink...........................Black
These colors are correct whether you use the sensor I did, or the one Jim did. Remember to use heat shrink and protect the wires on the new sensor. Also make sure you tuck the wires away so they don't rub against the tire. The tire will go through the insulation easily and expose the wires (don't ask me how I know).
After everything was wired up, I took it out for a test spin, and everything worked great! The only thing I think I notice is that the speedo seems to be reading low. I believe this is because the GSX-R front wheel, with a 120/70 tire, is an inch or two taller than the SV wheel, but I also had not ridden in a while, so maybe it was just my perception.
It's been a week or two since I did this, and so far everything is in good shape. The magnets appear to be holding on fine, and the sensor works reliably. All in all, Jim did the hard work by figuring out what parts were needed, but hopefully what I've learned will allow others to enjoy a GSX-R front end now that his kits are no longer available.
Monday, May 14, 2007
Ask Me About My GSX-R Front-End
Before:
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/11_zps56fd67de.jpg
In Progress:
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/12_zpsf48490da.jpg
Completed:
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a519/PistachioNut99/13_zpsee4ab8bc.jpg
After about a month and a half of planning, buying parts, buying tools, and tweaking, my GSX-R front suspension is finally done. This will probably be the "biggest" mod I ever do to this bike. It basically involved putting the entire front end of a better bike onto mine. So, what's different now?
Adjustable suspension - this was the biggest reason for me. The stock suspension is under-damped and only adjustable for pre-load. This means that the bike bounces around a lot, and dives a lot every time I tap the brakes.
Upside-down forks - probably not so important for me, but the main difference is they're a lot stiffer and look really trick
4-pot Radial brake calipers - way more powerful than the stock ones- probably more powerful than I need, but a nice upgrade. And they look really trick ;-)
Black wheel, black fender - one day, I'll swap to a black rear wheel, buy a black hugger, and the look will be complete.
Thanks to the hard work and investigation of many other SV owners, there weren't that many unknowns involved in this conversion. There was a lot of gray area though, that I will attempt to rectify by publishing what I've learned during my conversion. Overall, the concept is simple: take the entire front end from a GSX-R and put it onto the SV. The complicated parts are with the controls, namely finding a pair of clip-ons that will work with the stock electrical, clutch and throttle cables. I had major problems with mine because they're this weird aftermarket make. In order to make everything work, a lot of finesse and quick-thinking was required. Anyway, it's all done now.
Results
My first impressions of the new equipment were:
1. damn, these brakes are amazing, and
2. wow, my front end doesn't dive every time I slow down!
First, the brakes are just incredible. I re-used the master cylinder from the SV (the part that you press on to brake) as well as my stainless steel line kit, so the only parts that are really new are the calipers (the things with brake pads that clamp down on the wheel to stop it). Either they are just made to a way tighter spec, or I did the best brake job EVER. I think it's the calipers. I barely need to squeeze the brake lever to start slowing down, and if I squeeze with moderate pressure, I start slowing down real fast. Originally I was worried that the stock master cylinder wouldn't handle these new brakes properly, and I'd be squeezing the lever all the way into the bar in order to get proper braking action. Nothing could be further from the truth. I barely squeeze down and I'm already stopped. In fact, they're so sensitive that I was slowing down before the lever moved enough to trip the brake light switch. So, essentially I was braking but my brake lights weren't turning on. I had to grind down the brake lever in order to remedy this.
The other, major, major thing I noticed right away is that the front end doesn't dive anymore. The old SV suspension is really weak- every time I decelerated slightly, the front suspension would compress and cause my body to shift forward slightly. When I braked hard, it was really bad, to the point where I felt like I was bottoming out the suspension. In a way, it was good because it taught me to be smooth with the brakes and throttle, not not upset the front end. On the other hand, it was really disconcerting if I had to brake hard before turning, because the suspension would be moving around everywhere.
With the new suspension, I notice the front end barely moves under normal riding. At first it was weird because I was used to the diving action. But, now that I've adjusted, it's really nice to not have your entire body thrown forward every time you tap on the brakes. I've done quite a bit of riding recently to test my new forks. From looking at dirt pattern on the tubes, I can tell I'm still using a lot of fork travel. The difference is, I don't notice it as much, because it only happens under heavy braking, and the motion is more gradual. This, I believe, is the way things are supposed to be.
From here, I'll be learning to tune and adjust my suspension, now that I actually have an adjustable suspension. So far, I can tell what's wrong, but not always how to adjust for it. Soon...