Partition wall

[neilhatch]

Seeing that all my bike questions are always sorted here...thought I'd ask a diy question.


I'm putting up a wood stud partition wall to separate the bike and the laundry area in my garage.

Simple question. Rather than fit a proper door frame is there any good reason not to hang a door straight of one of the partition studs (2x4)? I had planned to double up on the side I'll hang it from for strength.

Cheers as always. Neil

[yorkie_chris]

nah, be reet

[Specialone]

Structurally no, but why not put a proper one in? They are pennies and you generally buy them the correct width of your stud wall plus 2x thickness of the plasterboard, (12.5x2).

[Sid Squid]

A door liner set is hardly expensive, I'm sure it won't make a noticeable dent in the budget.

[Red ones]

Without lining the frame how are you intending to protect the edges of the plasterboard?
What you suggest would work fine, it's how hoardings are often built, but they are only temporary and not heavily used. You should have plenty of room to fit a door set and as others have said they are not expensive.

[Specialone]

One more thing, i fit a lot of frames, lay the frame on the floor, glue and screw it together, get it super square and fit braces on the two corners, then a brace across the bottom, it's a lot easier to get a rigid rectangle straight and plumb than three pieces all working against you.
Pay particular attention to getting the sides perfectly plumb and flat, makes fitting the door very easy as there won't be any planing to get good consistent gaps.

[Wideboy]

I've done it on hording's before but I'll agree with everyone else that it looks ****.

[dirtydog]

I think there's a wickes in Bracknell, door linings from £20-£30 and a cheap door is less than £20 so for that little extra cost you might as well do it properly

[neilhatch]

Thanks for all the advice.

I have gone for the frame approach. I hadn't considered enough the plaster board ends, and like many say a job worth doing......

I got a flebay door with hinges and lock for £10 this morning and then the £19.99 door frame from Wickes.

Now that my 5yr old boy has gone to a party I'll not have his expert help, but I'll soldier on. :D

Thanks again. Neil

[Specialone]

I pay around £14 for a frame from Selco, most builders merchants will be cheaper and better than the DIY stores.

[dirtydog]

I only suggested wickes as it's a Sunday and none of the merchants would've been open today

[Specialone]

I only suggested wickes as it's a Sunday and none of the merchants would've been open today

No you didn't mate, we all know you're on commission with them :)

[dirtydog]

You're getting confused mate, it's Homebase that I'm on commission with ;-)

[Red Herring]

One more thing, i fit a lot of frames, lay the frame on the floor, glue and screw it together, get it super square and fit braces on the two corners, then a brace across the bottom, it's a lot easier to get a rigid rectangle straight and plumb than three pieces all working against you.
Pay particular attention to getting the sides perfectly plumb and flat, makes fitting the door very easy as there won't be any planing to get good consistent gaps.

+1 to this, and stand the door frame up where you want it before you start putting the stud wall together. It's far easier to build the wall to the door frame than to try and fit your perfectly rectangular door frame into a wonky wall..... don't ask me how I know this......;)

ps: also think about which way you want the door to open, having it open into the laundry area rather than into the garage gives you more room around the bike.....

[yorkie_chris]

Didn't spot you were using plasterboard... IMO it's crap, stick ply up instead so you can hang tools/shelves off it

[Wideboy]

I do the same as SP1 but you build the opening 5-10mm bigger than the frame, that way the opening doesn't have to be spot ******** and you can slide the frame in and pack the gap. I find that the easiest way rather than offering it up and building it in.

[neilhatch]

Quality advice folks....much appreciated.

I had to pack outside of the frame a little, about 3-4mm either side. I hope this will be fine one I put the boarding up.

As for boarding, The ply board idea sounds a great idea so will do that on the bike side. Will stick to plaster board on the other.


Cheers all. Neil

[Specialone]

I do the same as SP1 but you build the opening 5-10mm bigger than the frame, that way the opening doesn't have to be spot ******** and you can slide the frame in and pack the gap. I find that the easiest way rather than offering it up and building it in.

Yep, that's the way I do it too.