Reuse fork oil?

[Yarders91]

I need to change the forkseals on my curvy. I have the new forkseals as i was given them when i bought the bike. Trouble is money for me is uber tight atm and the MOT is pre booked for end of this month so i cant replace the fork oil inline with the seals (as much as i would prefer to)

Is there a way i can change the forkseals without changing the oil? Everything o have read through my haynes manual requires me to drain out the old fork oil to do the seals.

Thanks in advance.
Jack

[Sid Squid]

You could tip the oil into a suitable container and reuse it, but there won't be enough as some will be lost in the process. But it's not really a good idea.

[Mikey360]

You could potentially just drain them into a clean container, then refill as required and then change the fork oil at a later date.
Keep them separate though and make sure an even amount goes back into each fork.

[TamSV]

You'll need to drain it out. You could collect it and put it back in. You're bound to lose some and the level won't be spot on (although I assume they're leaking, so the level's probably short already).

Not ideal really and you'll be taking the forks back off soon to do the oil.

Now this is by no means good advice but, having been similarly fiscally challenged in the past, I have popped up the dust seal, stuffed the gap with some nice absorbent kitchen paper and reseated the dust seal. With no sign of leaky forks you get through the MOT and then do the job properly when you've got the oil.

Very wrong and extremely bodgy.

[atassiedevil]

This is probably your best option, considering things. I've seen it done in the past too, but i'd use a cut piece of microfibre cloth, and literally pop the dust seal and fit the piece of fibre cloth round the corner before you ride in. Wipe up any evidence before you go in too. Some testers are eagle eyed.

Very wrong to do, but it does mean when you do your seals when you can afford the oil, you will do it once and do it right.


Now this is by no means good advice but, having been similarly fiscally challenged in the past, I have popped up the dust seal, stuffed the gap with some nice absorbent kitchen paper and reseated the dust seal.

[sputnik]

As Tam says, you could try the kitchen paper bodge. It might (but might not) see you through the test depending on how badly they are leaking - I too hang my head in shame at having done this some years ago.

Another thing you could try is to pop up the dust seals and try running some very thin plastic round where the inner seals contact the fork. 35mm camera film does the job. This might (or again might not) dislodge some crud that is allowing oil to get through. If it works at all it may only give a temporary fix.

You can probably get a litre of fork oil for just over £10. Are you sure you can afford the petrol to get to the Mot test centre?

[PyroUK]

You could this:

Sealmate.net

Essentially what Sputnik is talking about.

If you can find a suitable bit if plastic you can just use the vids online on the method

[21QUEST]

As Tam says, you could try the kitchen paper bodge. It might (but might not) see you through the test depending on how badly they are leaking - I too hang my head in shame at having done this some years ago.

Another thing you could try is to pop up the dust seals and try running some very thin plastic round where the inner seals contact the fork. 35mm camera film does the job. This might (or again might not) dislodge some crud that is allowing oil to get through. If it works at all it may only give a temporary fix.

You can probably get a litre of fork oil for just over £10. Are you sure you can afford the petrol to get to the Mot test centre?

Hi, not looking to start a bun fight but with regards to the part of your post I've highlighted, why don't you just stick to answering the question that was asked?

[21QUEST]

Yarders91 , check your PM

[21QUEST]

Back to the question.

I wouldn't bother changing the fork seals without enough/new fluid. If need be, for the MOT, do what TamSV suggested....it WILL pass unless it's lost all the fluid. Just do it right before you set off for the MOT place

First thing you want to do is check the stanchions for nicks etc. and use some 400 grit wet and dry to sort it out. Don't want to damage the new fork seal when you eventually get round to fitting them.

Also, the seal mate suggest by sputnik is good to try...provided the stanchion have been given a good look over an d any nick etc sorted

Oh, if you want to try the seal mate, let me know. I bought one a while ago but never used it so you can borrow that. I ended up just changing the seal as decided to sell the bike.
Hopefully, I know where the 'eck it is.

[yorkie_chris]

jokes about the scots being tight fookers an all...

Reusing it, not ideal.

35mm film trick... I think it's bollox, I did seals for someone after they did this, part of job was cleaning all the odd bits of film out from inside the fork lol.



Fork oil level will be too low by time you're finished, but don't worry about that too much. Don't hit any big potholes.


If it was me I would go begging for some hydraulic oil or ATF, it's cheap and will let you top it up. Or use fresh, that would be better. ISO32 hydraulic oil might be a bit thin but probably no worse than whatevers in there.


You know industrial double lip seals are cheaper than the same seals with "fork oil seals" written on the box right?

[carelesschucca]

jokes about the scots being tight fookers an all...

Harsh coming from a tight Yorkshireman....

I'd say get fresh oil, not that expensive and well worth it.

[sputnik]

Hi, not looking to start a bun fight but with regards to the part of your post I've highlighted, why don't you just stick to answering the question that was asked?

Jeez -It was a light hearted comment and no insult was intended. The smiley I thought I had added didn't appear. I was simply trying to highlight that the cost of buying fork oil is considerably less than the cost of one tank of fuel. For the work involved in taking the forks out I would probably prefer to try to scrape together the money to do the job once and do seals and oil together rather than seals now and take it all apart again for the oil later. If the OP can get by with a short fill on his next top up and buy the oil, I'd take that option.

In case you think my comment was aimed at having a pop at skint, tight jocks it wasn't. And I say this as a skint, tight jock.

tbh - a sealmate probably costs about the same as half the oil required. That was really why I suggested the probably inferior, but free, alternative.

Re YC's comments on the camera film - I half agree. It can work but as he says, you run the risk of bits of film cracking off into the seals. But in a financial squeeze it might be worth a go to get through the test until both jobs can be done.

[yorkie_chris]

That and I've never known it work! And who has 35mm film lying around these days...

[sputnik]

That and I've never known it work! And who has 35mm film lying around these days...

Have a dig around inside your forks. You might find some there! :smt082 Fair point though, I might as well have suggested a bodge using gramophone needles!

[Corny Gizmo]

I cant comment on the film but Sealmate definitely worked for me and mine were leaking so bad they were dripping onto the wheel!

They were bone dry after I used Sealmate, only issue is you may need oil depending on how much has come out.

[wideguy]

I've been using synthetic motor oil in forks for years, consider it as a much less costly alternative. Works good and lasts a long time.

[Nobbylad]

OK, so the 35mm culprit was me :(

Halfords do a litre of fork oil for £7.99.

[Sid Squid]

Seal tools do not fix seals, the best they can do is - maybe - remove grit or dirt. They may have some use on dirtbikes which are commonly exposed to such contamination, but are just about useless on road bikes where seals leak because of wear or damage.