Brake Help!

[Steph1972]

Hello folks,

Long time posted however still around!

Probably wrong thread posted in wrong place, however am Scottish so I thought I would enquire here first.

Just re-taxed the bike after the "winter" and at the end of last summer I had a rear blow out at 70mph, so had to get the tyre changed from a main dealer.

It was noted at the time that my "calipers" "brake" look really dry and they like to see then greased.

My question is is there any online ref here to do such a job? I assume I need to remove the brake fluid res cap and push the piston back etc like a car, then refill, but would like to read over this before I do it.

Bike is a SV650S K6

Thanks, Steph.

;)

[Bibio]

greased as in how?

who the fek are you going to for servicing?

do you have a clue about the maintenance of a motorcycle to know whan a garage is taking the pee?

a calliper should be 'dry' if not then something is making it 'wet' which is usually brake fluid. if the callipers are sticky or seized then tell the garage to say that.

if your callipers function and do not bind the all is well.

[Steph1972]

greased as in how?

who the fek are you going to for servicing?

do you have a clue about the maintenance of a motorcycle to know whan a garage is taking the pee?

a calliper should be 'dry' if not then something is making it 'wet' which is usually brake fluid. if the callipers are sticky or seized then tell the garage to say that.

if your callipers function and do not bind the all is well.

Yes thank you, my assumption was they wanted more trade after they changed the tyre. Anyway will get the bike sorted and battery charged over the weekend, Its due an MOT next month at my local MOT station (not a dealer) I trust them, so see what they say. To be honest the bike has only done 8,000 miles, I have serviced my cars etc over the years and yes you get to know when someone is at it!

Thanks for the reply, though may be good for say if I need to change the pads etc! Is there a online resource to refer too?

Thanks, Steph.

[yokohama]

For a curvy I think but it gives an idea of how to get at the pistons and pads and what to look out for

http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/howto/svs_rear_brake_pads/

[Bibio]

i would recommend that if your changing the pads then its time for a strip down and grease of the seals (so looking at it the garage was sortof right) and new fluid.

personally i strip and service my brakes once a year as i'm tight and don't want to fork out on pistons and seals, prevention is better than cure.

[Steph1972]

i would recommend that if your changing the pads then its time for a strip down and grease of the seals (so looking at it the garage was sortof right) and new fluid.

personally i strip and service my brakes once a year as i'm tight and don't want to fork out on pistons and seals, prevention is better than cure.

Thanks, so it may be the seals look dry, so if this is the case I really only need to re-grease the seals as the pads and disc's are fine, what is this method of re-greasing the seals?

Cheers, Steph.

[Bibio]

to grease the seals you need to strip the callipers down and pop the pistons out. fur builds up behind the seals which is the main cause of callipers seizing so you need to 'polish' it out.

TBH its easier than it sounds.

[sputnik]

Sounds like they may have just given it a visual check without really going in there. They may have meant the pins that run through the pads looked a bit dry/rusted. Certainly no harm giving them a bit of a clean and lube with copper grease. You can take the calipers off and give stuff like this a bit of a good clean up fairly easily without having to go as 'deep' as getting pistons and seals out. Best practice (and Bibio!) would probably say to do the whole job but at least this allows you to take a look at what's going on in there, give the protruding edges of the pistons a clean with a toothbrush and assess whether you need to do a more comprehensive job etc. If you split the calipers you can check there is sufficient (red rubber) grease in the sliders too, again without having to do much hard work.

Don't fear having a poke around your brakes, its the best way to see how they work and discover the fact that witchcraft isn't involved. Just don't do anything nobby - remember you do have to depend on them!

[Bibio]

trust me once you have done it a few times you'll wonder what all the fuss is about with people who don't do brakes.

if i had time i would come and show you how its done but i don't have time.

if i can be arzed i might do a walk threw on how its done.

[Bibio]

trust me once you have done it a few times you'll wonder what all the fuss is about with people who don't do brakes.

if i had time i would come and show you how its done but i don't have time.

if i can be arzed i might do a walk threw on how its done.

[andrewsmith]

trust me once you have done it a few times you'll wonder what all the fuss is about with people who don't do brakes.

if i had time i would come and show you how its done but i don't have time.

if i can be arzed i might do a walk threw on how its done.

It's easy to overhaul brakes once you have done it once (as bibio says). Its one of the easiest pieces of maintenance on a motorcycle.
Bibs want a set to do it with?

written with a biro

[TheFuriousT]

It is a novice job. buy a Haynes servicing manual if you have any doubts. If you do take the pads out note what pad came from which side of the caliper or you will have unbalanced wear problems and reduced friction from the pads.

If there is an anti rattle shim in there don't lose it!.

Brake disc cleaner is your friend through out the cleaning process.

On reassembly silicon grease with a high temp rating on the caliper pots(dont push these out to far when cleaning so that the job snowballs) and use copper grease on the back of the pads to reduce squeal. If radially mounted copper grease on the mounting bolts if not then on the sliding pin to stop corrosion.

Don't forget to pump your breaks when all reassembled or you may find yourself in an interesting situation.

:P

[TheRamJam]

As Bibio says its an easy job. Just order some good quality seal kits (not the cheap Chinese ones). I use this shop (http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Powerhouse-Automotive-Ltd/Caliper-Seal-Kits-Suzuki-/_i.html?rt=nc&_nkw=sv650&_fsub=2707951017&_sid=1008591237&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1581&_pgn=2)