Which SV650s brake pads?

[WyldeSV]

Hi all,

Currently riding a 2001 sv650s, haven't changed the front pads in the year I've had the bike, but had them off to clean the calipers a few months ago, figured I'd replace them as it's summer nearly.

What you got? What do you recommend?

Also, my front pads are worn, but still have a few mm left, and when I look at them there is not a lot of space between them and disc, looks like new, thicker ones would catch and rub on the disc? I can't push my pistons in by hand, well, couldn't last time I had them apart, whether I was going about it the right way or not I don't know.

[Tomor]

EBC Sintered HH seem to be quite a few peoples preference here, including mine. FA229HH and FA231HH from memory

[Luckypants]

EBC HH pads were very good on my curvy....

It is hard to push the caliper pistons back by hand, so I use a small g-clamp and clamp it over the old pad and use that to push the piston back. I remove the reservoir lid and diaphragm to allow the brake fluid to flow back up, although some people crack the bleed nipple slightly to allow brake fluid to flow out that way. Either way make sure you put a rag to catch any overflowing brake fluid, it is very corrosive to paint.

[WyldeSV]

Thanks for the suggestions, so why do you move the pistons back like that? Surely they won't return once you have applied the brake for the first time since pushing them in, slightly confused.

[maviczap]

The pistons in the calipers adjust to the thickness of the pads, so whenthe pads are new, the pistons are retracted into the caliper. As the pads wear the pistons move further out, so compenste for wear.

The pads don't rub on the disc, unless the pistons aren't moving freely, so if yours are hard to move, then they probably need a service

[WyldeSV]

I see, I'll go ahead and buy the pads reccomendes, 42 for both sets, demon tweets has a sale!

I'll try and get them in next weekend, if my pistons don't push in with the help of a clamp I'll pop the old ones back in and book it in to get the calipers serviced, I can do basics but haven't got a clue other than how to change pads when it comes to brakes.

[Nutsinatin]

I like the EBC HH pads too, if you can't push the pistons in by hand use an old screwdriver to carefully lever the first piston back in and then use a small block of wood or the like to stop the other piston popping back out when you push the second one in.

[garynortheast]

I'll pop the old ones back in and book it in to get the calipers serviced, I can do basics but haven't got a clue other than how to change pads when it comes to brakes.


Easy enough job to do yourself and a useful skill to have. Get yourself a Haynes manual and have a look in the message boards here. I seem to recall a couple of blow by blow guides to changing pads and servicing calipers.

[WyldeSV]

I've got a Haynes, I do lots of things myself, (oil changes, air and oil filters, pads, spark plugs, chain adjustment etc)

Just not sure I feel confident taking the actually brakes apart, I use the bike everyday for work, so if I came across a hiccup when doing it at the weekend I'd be stuffed haha.

[Red ones]

Pick up a spare pair of calipers. They're fairly inexpensive second hand, but it allows you to work on them off the bike and minimise the down time.

[maviczap]

Just not sure I feel confident taking the actually brakes apart, I use the bike everyday for work, so if I came across a hiccup when doing it at the weekend I'd be stuffed haha.

You might be lucky and just need to clean the pistons & lube them with some red rubber grease. That's not difficult to do.

csLVVDA5YXk

Once serviced the pistons will glide in and out like a well oiled love thingy ;)

[WyldeSV]

Can you sent me a HTML link, not showing up.

Is copper grease the same/safe? Just a small amount. I use it on the back of the pads and pins anyway

[maviczap]

No, copper grease is only for the back of pads, it makes the rubber seals swell.

This is what you need

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-Red-Rubber-Grease-Handy-18g-Mini-Tin-Brake-Caliper-Rebuilds-/331224954505?pt=UK_Vehicle_Oils_Lubricants_Fluids&hash=item4d1e8bb689

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csLVVDA5YXk

[WyldeSV]

Red rubber grease, brake cleaner and EBC left and right front pads on the way

[Bibio]

i have said this before but i will say it again. you cannot service calliper pistons by just pushing the pistons almost out and cleaning the piston faces or applying RRG and pushing them back in.

you must pop the pistons out then take the seals out and clean the seal recesses. its not the grime at the top of the piston. its the furring behind the piston seals that cause the seals to grab the piston. the furring is like adding a jubilee clip on the seal which is slowly tightened threw time and eventually becomes that bad the pistons seize.

the other cause is the actual pistons rusting up and there is NOTHING you can do about that but buy new pistons.

learn to service your callipers properly, do it once a year and it will save you a fortune.

[WyldeSV]

Last time I took them apart there was no surface rust at all, just dust and road grime, I think they just need a good scrub

[Bibio]

you cant see the crud building up behind the seals by pushing the pistons out and scrubbing them. you must take the pistons completely out and inspect the seal recesses. once the recesses are cleaned then you assemble the seals and pistons using a smear of RRG.

brake fluid crystallises up behind the seals then causes a reaction with the alloy causing 'furring' you must remove this or it slowly gets worse.

this is why you never ever assemble calliper seals using brake fluid like the manual tells you to.

your bike your money your choice.