View Full Version : Changed my suspension settings, advice? SV1000.
Hi all
Thought I'd give my suspension the once over as the bike handles like turd. I have a 25 year old VFR750 that outdoes it around corners with ease, crazy. My questions are at the bottom for those who can't be arsed reading the how-to (please correct anything I've done wrong as I've NEVER done this before, so stand to be corrected. I just followed the manual)
Anyway, I started with the forks. The Spring Pre load was...well...odd, I've never fiddled with suspension before so stupidly assumed it was fine. The chap before me had it wound allllll the way in (or out? You tell me!) so it was flush. Like so (for those who're thinking of having a play themselves):
http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww173/chickenpot/IMAG1089_zpsdc7d2fd6.jpg
I adjusted this to book settings, so that it had 6 notches showing:
http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww173/chickenpot/IMAG1090_zps42599f0a.jpg
I actually turned it a bit more so the 6th notch was flush at the bottom.
I then altered the Damping force adjuster (the silver notch on top of the pre load adjuster) it was turned about 7 full turns out anti clockwise, book says 1 turn out from tight (tight = clockwise, setting = 1 out anti clockwise), so I changed it to that:
http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww173/chickenpot/928e9cff-d0b6-4df0-a168-766e284b5c49_zpsdc4e5520.jpg
I then moved onto the compression damping adjuster at the bottom of the forks, these were both different amounts of turn, so turned clockwise until it was tight and then turned anti clockwise 1 full turn. Forgot to take a picture of this but it's at the bottom of the forks facing the back of the bike.
I moved onto the rear shock at this point. I checked the spring pre load adjustment, book says 7.85", mine measured out pretty much bang on that figure. I put a measuring tape at the top and down the shock as below:
Top:
http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww173/chickenpot/IMAG1097_zpse2c1f3fb.jpg
Bottom:
http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww173/chickenpot/IMAG1094_zps1d6bd4a3.jpg
I then changed the damping force adjuster (rebound), book says to tighten clockwise then back it off anti clockwise with a three quarter turn (bottom of the shock):
http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww173/chickenpot/06a641b2-586e-42be-a0cb-815702f09f62_zpsd387f6eb.jpg
Then adjusted the damping force adjuster (compression), book says to tighten it clockwise then back it off anti clockwise with a two and one quarter turns (top of the fork):
http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww173/chickenpot/18e458da-3be8-4627-a9e4-8bb432f03294_zps62bd2f22.jpg
Questions
Well, main one...does it all look right?! I don't recall seeing forks with pre loads sticking up that high.
I weigh around 160lb at the moment, I train quite frequently with barbells so my weight is etching up slowly. Would you say the settings are fine for me or would I benefit from some tweaking and a better shock spring etc?
I reckon the front fork oil needs changing, how much fork oil PER fork (and is there a favoured brand and viscosity and weight?).
Thanks in advance and I hope others find this useful.
Oh and here's the VFR that guns it round corners :p
http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww173/chickenpot/IMAG1100_zps512f7414.jpg
Looks like you have done it all right. Mine handled fairly well on stock settings and I'm 160 lbs in my gym kit. Make sure you tyre profiles are not over worn, your pressures are correct and your wheels are in line. Check all your bearings for play and torque up all you chassis and engine mounting bolts. Try the bike now on a road you know well and see what you think she is doing. Pogo'ing, hinging, wallowing etc then google the effect you are suffering and see what people recommend. If you change anything, make a note of what you have done then do the ride again in similar conditions. You can then go back if it has gone worse. I still think the thou is a decent handling machine when its set right for you. she is a heavy and slowish handling machine and takes a bit of weight transfer to get her hustling around the twisties.
Have a look through the discussions in threads like this (http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50370&highlight=suspension+setting) that are specifically to do with the SV1000 to see what other people have done that works.
http://forums.sv650.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=9296&d=1307561435
Hope this helps.
Ratty
Cheers ratty! Good to know I didn't botch it.
no setting is the same for anyone. each individual rides different, sits different, moves about the seat different.
i hate to be a stick in the mud but go and read about suspension before messing with stuff. putting suspension back to standard is just as bad as the settings it was at. your settings are dictated by measurements you take and how you ride. using someone else's settings DOES NOT WORK.
yes there are basics to setting up suspension but i'm not going to tell you. read, learn, put into practice. if you don't understand then go to someone who does.
gostar racing is one good place to start. or do a search on google for 'motorcycle suspension tuning 101'
It looks like you've put everything back to standard just fine. Standard settings are a generally good compromise on fresh components. Take it for a ride and see how it feels. Having the same settings in each fork is a good start in any case!
As others have said suspension is adjustable to suit different people under different circumstances, and depending on mileage the fork oil or rear shock may need some work to bring them back to best shape.
The GoStar site referenced by Bibio had a nice long article on setting up suspension but good advice is to find a nice bit of road, with a variety of conditions on it, ride it and think how you feel and changing one thing at a time. It may also be worth checking if the fork caps are supposed to be flush with the top yoke. My memory says the naked should by about 6mm proud which would also make a difference.
Jambo
Sent without a real keyboard
no setting is the same for anyone. each individual rides different, sits different, moves about the seat different.
i hate to be a stick in the mud but go and read about suspension before messing with stuff. putting suspension back to standard is just as bad as the settings it was at. your settings are dictated by measurements you take and how you ride. using someone else's settings DOES NOT WORK.
yes there are basics to setting up suspension but i'm not going to tell you. read, learn, put into practice. if you don't understand then go to someone who does.
gostar racing is one good place to start. or do a search on google for 'motorcycle suspension tuning 101'
Marginally condescending?
It looks like you've put everything back to standard just fine. Standard settings are a generally good compromise on fresh components. Take it for a ride and see how it feels. Having the same settings in each fork is a good start in any case!
depending on mileage the fork oil or rear shock may need some work to bring them back to best shape.
It may also be worth checking if the fork caps are supposed to be flush with the top yoke. My memory says the naked should by about 6mm proud which would also make a difference.
Agree with all the above, the bike's got 16k or there abouts on it, I think the fork oil is definitely due a change. Thinking linear springs for my weight and a fork refurb or simply swap it out for a Gixxer unit? I'm still a bit confused as to what Gixxer unit will simply bolt in back there with minimum fuss and deliver the best bang for the buck.
yorkie_chris
02-07-14, 07:24 AM
7 turns out on rebound, no wonder it was riding like crap. Pogo stick presumably.
So how does it ride now?
Only thing I would say is you made a lot of adjustments at once, maybe have been better to do them one at once. Still, now you got it back to stock as a baseline, give it a go.
Forks look fine.
How much oil per leg? Don't try measure 468ml or whatever... do it by air gap... after you stripped legs and cleaned all out.
no setting is the same for anyone. each individual rides different, sits different, moves about the seat different.
i hate to be a stick in the mud but go and read about suspension before messing with stuff. putting suspension back to standard is just as bad as the settings it was at. your settings are dictated by measurements you take and how you ride. using someone else's settings DOES NOT WORK.
To an extent that's true, but when you get into the meat of it one fork is much the same as the next.
Like, if you got showa needles from mid 00's gsxr you will have x amount mm^2 of bypass.
Only thing it doesn't account for is when you got 40,000 mile old oil lol.
Differences per rider, i.e "someone elses settings", I think is a lot of bollox. Like if me and you were to set up same bike to go round knockhill.... we'd end up with like 1.25 turns versus 1.5 turns out or something on same gear.
But for road,* it just needs to be in right range.
*Not that I think road is an easier environment than track. Just that track gets "honed" to work on one corner or fiddled to the exact specifics. Road needs to work everywhere on everything.
It didn't pogo as such, just turned in then felt like it was gonna tuck and would run super wide no matter how I took a corner. Felt horrific.
It feels better now, albeit I only went for a quick blast as I'm caning the VFR at the moment, will be going out on the SV for a long spin tonight and make mental notes as to how it feels and take it from there.
Setting it back to book settings was the best thing I could have done, it was so WILDLY out of whack and uneven all over the show that doing it bit by bit would have resulted in the same naffness. I needed to make sure everything was even and as it should be before I start fiddling again.
Visor down have a guide one of many.
Sag is a two man job. And that's were you start from so get the other half to help. http://www.visordown.com/workshop/motorcycle-suspension-tuning-setup/2487.html
yorkie_chris
02-07-14, 09:08 AM
Biggest thing, don't obsess about sag. I don't even bother these days just eyeball it
At 16,000 miles I reckon that the fork oil could use a change, but that hopefully the shock is still serviceable. I've had similar shocks rebuilt by K-tech in the past when the time has come, and you can always talk to them about springs & valving when that time scomes and you feel confident you know what you'd like done.
In terms of the fork springs, a quick check on racetech spring calculator (http://racetech.com/VehicleSearch#genre=2&brand=Suzuki&model=SV1000,+S&year=) for the SV1000 plugging in 160lb of rider weight suggests the springs aren't a bad match, if anything perhaps a smidge firm so for now I wouldn't worry about changing them.
Fork oil viscocity depends slightly on brand, I'd imagine the stock fork oil will be ~10w or so but check in your book. See what brands are available locally, and there's a useful form here that has some of them mapped out by VI (http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid) so you can check you're buying something close to a Suzuki weight. If that doesn't work for you and you want to try other oils you then know what your base number was if you need to switch brands.
Oil should be ~500ml per leg or a little under, but as YC says, you want to do this by air gap, not volume of oil poured in as small changes in volume lead to quite big changes in air gap.
Glad to hear things are improving in any case :)
Jambo
Thanks, great info as usual. Will be whipping the forks off this weekend providing the weather man's wrong and it's not pee'ing it down all day Saturday and Sunday.
Yorkie, Sag at the rear I measured both static and rider and it was around 30-32mm difference between the two. Didn't do the front as I had to go do something else.
Don't forget to loosen the fork caps before starting fork removal. I went for a 10 weight oil ( Rock I think ) which was too much for the road and I ended up backing stuff off. I think the stock is about 2.5.
Ratty
Marginally condescending?
nope. was trying to tell you that researching the subject will go a long way in helping you get it right.
Came across as pretty patronising really! I've done my reading and taken in as much as is possible in the space of a day. I've actually downloaded what I consider to be a pretty good guide that details minor changes to make on a daily basis to find the sweet spot for you as a person.
I'm no expert, but then I don't think many are - you have a go and learn the nuances as you go along, as you and others have said...there's no one size fits all setting. It just so happens that I weight around the right amount to justify book settings and then alter from there, anything was better than the horrific state it was in.
Machine
02-07-14, 12:33 PM
When you went to the suspension guru and asked him for his expert opinion and could he set your bike up if you give him some money what did he say?
Or have you just asked on a few forums and got varying responses?
How do you know the Vfr rides around the SV, who is riding the Vfr when you are on the Sv and are they not maybe just a better rider?
All valid questions!
'book settings mean nothing' start by setting your sag then do a simple bounce test for front and rear should see you in the rough ball park for rebound. after that its road testing to set up compression and final rebound.
just remember that the 'clickers' are only for chassis movement e.g. braking and turning and not for comfort. OEM shim stacks are usually on the harsh side and without changing them you cant change the ride comfort.
on the road your looking at using as much suspension travel as possible without bottoming out and leaving enough for 'emergency situations'.
basic setting up of suspension is not a black art, changing the internals of the dampening components is.
yorkie_chris
02-07-14, 01:01 PM
Bibio at least book settings may not be right but they won't be a million miles off either. Sag setting, just set it to 20mm front static 10mm rear static and leave it for now.
Low speed matters a lot for comfort, if you've got too little bleed then it will feel harsh even on a relatively mild valve stack.... or if you got shedloads of bleed then it will be sloppy and won't move the stacks except on really big hits.
Turn rebound all the way in and see what happens!
Just to be annoying, all the settings affect all the others, all the time.
When you went to the suspension guru and asked him for his expert opinion and could he set your bike up if you give him some money what did he say?
Or have you just asked on a few forums and got varying responses?
How do you know the Vfr rides around the SV, who is riding the Vfr when you are on the Sv and are they not maybe just a better rider?
All valid questions!
I ride both, regularly, on exactly the same roads. I know which is (currently) the better of the two. The VFR. Purely down to the fact the suspension settings were in an epic state of crapness.
andrewsmith
02-07-14, 01:07 PM
Fork oil viscocity depends slightly on brand, I'd imagine the stock fork oil will be ~10w or so but check in your book. See what brands are available locally, and there's a useful form here that has some of them mapped out by VI (http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid) so you can check you're buying something close to a Suzuki weight. If that doesn't work for you and you want to try other oils you then know what your base number was if you need to switch brands.
Cheers for the link Jambo
Gives me a few options for oil on my front end.
I will echo what has been said that the suspension is whats best for the person. In your case going back to factory is a good start
Yup, will be twiddling on a daily basis to get it where I want it to be. My commute in London has me going through some lovely sharp right and left hand turns on varying surfaces - so it's quite a good route to gauge my preferences.
Low speed matters a lot for comfort, if you've got too little bleed then it will feel harsh even on a relatively mild valve stack.... or if you got shedloads of bleed then it will be sloppy and won't move the stacks except on really big hits.
Turn rebound all the way in and see what happens!
Just to be annoying, all the settings affect all the others, all the time.
i used to think that until i spent the cash on a proper piston kit designed for road use. the difference is night and day. i told MCT what kind of roads i ride and they built the kit for me. i fitted it not expecting much difference but how wrong could i have been. when i got the piston kit i had a good look and it was backwards to everything i have ever read on the net regarding orifice profiles.
bumps, what bumps.
slow speed adjustment, yup works perfect. no popping or severe diving. i can feel the difference in settings better now.
high speed is now controlled and works properly in both compression and rebound.
chassis is a loooot more stable even under braking with pot holes. before with the OEM pistons the front end would dive into the pot hole and jerk on the on the way out no matter where i had the slow speed adjusters set, similar scenario on bumps. now the bars hardly move and the bike stays stable and keep the rubber stuff on the tar stuff. best cash i have spent on my suspension. so much so that i'm seriously considering sending my nitron shock to MCT to see what they can do for me.
Machine
02-07-14, 02:29 PM
There you go, all the proof you need you can fiddle with the plastic suspension till your hearts content but there is no substitute for putting your hand in your pocket and getting an expert to sort it out.
Bikes are built down to a price and in the eyes if manufacturers the lower the better, standard suspension is designed to go up and down a bit, that's all!
Blindly fiddling with it then riding the same bit of road is a pointless days exercise as you will just convince yourself it's better because it's 'not standard' anymore!
Most people couldn't tell the difference between a tyre with 20psi and one with 50psi never mind one click here and one turn there.
Ask an expert, send the stuff away, put your hand in your pocket and be happy something has been achieved that you could never do yourself. It's why there are diy'ers and specialists!
For what it's worth, I now have 5wsilkolene fork oil with 147mm air gap, 4 rings showing on the blue adjusters, fork legs 6mm proud of yoke (I've since read that apparently K3-N should be flush ), damper in the bin, decent front tyre and it corners quite well enough. Not sure if it's any good compared to a sorted VFR but it's a million times better than it used to be. Doubtless google-fu will say mine's all wrong but basically I suspect going from one extreme to the other on the adjusters will make only marginal difference.
I had all the twiddly bits set up by MH racing a few years ago and all was good but then over the years the oil will have crapped out and my riding style (OK lack of style) will have changed too but I've never felt the need to mess with the front end twiddly bits apart from chuckign the damper. The rear on the other-hand took a fair bit of rebound and compression twiddling to get it comfy and predictable.
I did find a webguide that gave symptoms v adjustments which I used to twiddle the rear a bit but basically I dropped the rear compression damping a bit and that stopped it bouncing quite so much on rubbish roads.
yorkie_chris
02-07-14, 04:14 PM
Bibio what pistons did you end up with. There's something to be said for small ports to give progression at high speed coupled with a soft/digressive stack. That gives loads of feel of the low speed.
Did you get parabolic needles too?
There's not really any reason you can't generate that with large ports, but it makes a complicated stack. What stack did you have before?
Blindly fiddling with it then riding the same bit of road is a pointless days exercise as you will just convince yourself it's better because it's 'not standard' anymore!
On the other hand, spend a load of money and you'll convince yourself it's better because you've spent a load of money.
i ended up with MCT's custom in house ones with the shim stack to suit my riding style. they do bear a similarity to the Honda ones though. all i can say is they are bloooody fantastic. have been well worth the money in my book.
no. needles are the next progression as the standard ones are near the end of their range, but they work just fine for the moment as is. if truth be told the slow circuit could be doing with being a little slower but it's not that far out too cause any bother.
I'm not spending thousands on a middle of the road bike haha, if I had a spanky R1 SP or my beloved R1 still, then yeah. But for riding to work and the odd blast up and down the Surrey Hills? Gotta be kidding. I don't mind the thought of a Gixxer front end, mainly for the brakes - don't care what anyone says, the brakes on the SV1000 are pants, I'm having a last ditch attempt at new pads and a rebuild and if it still doesn't stop like it's hit a wall...I'm gonna spend the poulty sum of £300 on some forks and stoppers that will. And yeah, I've ridden a gixxer thou plenty of times and the brakes ARE better.
Standard settings with a bit of twiddling will do me fine, thanks.
if your not happy with the SV1000 go and buy yourself another R1. haha
The sv1000 front end is pretty much a gsxr600 circa 2001. Nothing wrong with those forks and calipers. Of course everything can be improved. But let's get everything serviced and working as intended first.
Jambo
Sent without a real keyboard
if your not happy with the SV1000 go and buy yourself another R1. haha
Can you jog on to another thread or something? Not interested in your pessimism to be honest.
yorkie_chris
03-07-14, 09:29 AM
Fork valving, i.e damping, has a massive effect on brake feel.
What's your beef with the brakes? What pads are you using?
The sv1000 front end is pretty much a gsxr600 circa 2001. Nothing wrong with those forks and calipers. Of course everything can be improved. But let's get everything serviced and working as intended first.
Jambo
Sent without a real keyboard
No no no no NO!
The 01 GSXR6 front end has the brilliant showa internals, the svthou has the kayaba bits that are a totally different animal.
Brakes wise, same calipers, just the discs are 10mm smaller, which if you think in terms of leverage that's actually quite significant.
(no argument about getting it working properly before modifying however!)
yorkie_chris
03-07-14, 09:34 AM
no. needles are the next progression as the standard ones are near the end of their range, but they work just fine for the moment as is. if truth be told the slow circuit could be doing with being a little slower but it's not that far out too cause any bother.
That's not really how it works with needles, the end of the range is given by obviously zero bleed and then the limitation of the orifice into which the needle screws.
If you near end of stock needle range, next thing is a small shim change to delay cracking a little bit.
Needle change is either change in taper, which will change end range and resolution of adjustment. or parabola form of tip to make turns (i.e displacement of needle) proportional to cross section area change.
The 01 GSXR6 front end has the brilliant showa internals, the svthou has the kayaba bits that are a totally different animal.
Brakes wise, same calipers, just the discs are 10mm smaller, which if you think in terms of leverage that's actually quite significant.
(no argument about getting it working properly before modifying however!)
Fair enough, I've not had either fork apart down to that level of detail. My point was more that the brakes and forks are a long way from where I'd start drawing a line for "bad/sub-standard".
That said I've discovered I'm significantly less fussy on some of these matters than a lot of people and also seem to have a weight / riding style that suits standard suspension for quite a lot of Japanese bikes. I have a number of friends that are faster than me and feel differently of course :)
Jambo
That's not really how it works with needles, the end of the range is given by obviously zero bleed and then the limitation of the orifice into which the needle screws.
If you near end of stock needle range, next thing is a small shim change to delay cracking a little bit.
Needle change is either change in taper, which will change end range and resolution of adjustment. or parabola form of tip to make turns (i.e displacement of needle) proportional to cross section area change.
Can you move to London and be my personal SV/suspension spanner-man?
Thanks <3
At the end of the day it's never going to be as sharp as the R1 or the street. It's an entirely different proposition. Why not just spend a bit of time getting used to what it is before you decide it's all crap and needs to be replaced. Calliper service and fluid change transformed my brakes but they were proper rubbish before the service.
That's not really how it works with needles, the end of the range is given by obviously zero bleed and then the limitation of the orifice into which the needle screws.
If you near end of stock needle range, next thing is a small shim change to delay cracking a little bit.
Needle change is either change in taper, which will change end range and resolution of adjustment. or parabola form of tip to make turns (i.e displacement of needle) proportional to cross section area change.
yup and that's why i need to change the taper of the OEM needles or cut them off and fit other ones. i dont want to change the high speed circuit by messing with shims. i see what your saying in that the shim stack that is there might be bleeding but it works perfect for my needs. compression is fine it's the rebound on the slow circuit.
@ 650. i was merely pointing out the obvious that you love R1's so why dont you get another one and be happy. no need to get upset.
At the end of the day it's never going to be as sharp as the R1 or the street. It's an entirely different proposition. Why not just spend a bit of time getting used to what it is before you decide it's all crap and needs to be replaced. Calliper service and fluid change transformed my brakes but they were proper rubbish before the service.
No no no no, this isn't the point. I'm far from stupid and would never have bought the bike if the limitations were of any concern.
I wish you could have ridden it as it was, it was laughably bad. I've got it riding MUCH nicer now. I've also got a caliper rebuild kit and two new bleed nipples en route as the originals are letting air into the system.
I've already installed braided lines and done a full fluid change, that's when I noticed the bleed nipple on the right side of the bike was leaking fluid.
I like this bike, a lot, it's just seriously let down by poor braking performance and (previously) shoddy handling. The latter has now been rectified to a degree with room for improvement with some cheap changes (fork oil, better springs and a shock service) and the the former is due to be given a final chance this weekend coming.
I don't consider the Gixxer front end swap to be of any expense, £300 or so on some forks and far superior stoppers is a good thing in my eyes, I could spend more than that on just trying to improve the internals of the existing forks.
I'm going for a run out tonight and will be giving it some beans, the ride into work this morning was far better - I wasn't running stupidly wide on corners and it feels more planted. So I'm happier with a bike I was already fairly happy with.
If it was THAT bad, I'd shift it.
@ 650. i was merely pointing out the obvious that you love R1's so why dont you get another one and be happy. no need to get upset.
Not upset :)
Sid Squid
03-07-14, 01:44 PM
10W oil is too heavy, Suzuki specify something apparently unobtainable called L01, which, depending on who you talk to, is anywhere between 2.5W-7.5W. As I couldn't be certain what was in there as standard I went with 5W Rock Oil as I already had some - works fine.
The SV1000 'N' is a perfectly good handling motorbike, I've used it on track and demonstrated this well, and the suspension is hardly poor quality, which can't always be said about the people who fiddle with it.
My bike's steering damper was OK when new, but didn't age well and became very non linear as it wore, by which I mean it had no discernible effect for ~5mm before anything happened and then got heavier toward the extremes, meaning there's no effect as you first move the steering then it bangs up against a load of resistance, this, unsurprisingly, does nothing to make it steer nice.
yorkie_chris
03-07-14, 01:45 PM
650 no I'm not moving to that london, not even if the job was servicing the bird in your avatar 40hr a week lol.
How much do you weigh? How many miles has bike?
yup and that's why i need to change the taper of the OEM needles or cut them off and fit other ones. i dont want to change the high speed circuit by messing with shims. i see what your saying in that the shim stack that is there might be bleeding but it works perfect for my needs. compression is fine it's the rebound on the slow circuit.
@ 650. i was merely pointing out the obvious that you love R1's so why dont you get another one and be happy. no need to get upset.
You say you just want to slow rebound down a bit, if you change taper that won't do that, you'll just have a different turns setting to get same flow. (work out cross sections).
But if you turn it in too much then you're straight into high speed and it feels crap.
So one answer would be, add a bit more shim on first stage of stack, and run clicker a bit further out.
Unless... your MCT pistons have fixed bleeds, probably not.
Thing is, the two are interlinked. There's no way to change bleed without affecting initial high speed. i.e how the damper builds pressure.
P.S why you think rebound is too slow?
you might get a shock at just how much it will actually cost you to swap the forks for USD's
the only thing that will fit the new front end is your wheel, possibly discs, switchgear and lines. GSXR forks are sprung for GSXR's and with the SV1000 being a heavy beast you will need new springs, depending on the age of the new forks you will also need to service them.
you can sell your current front end to recoup some of the cash but the SV1000 forks are not that sought after.
i think you will be surprised at just how good the stopping power of the callipers are after a good and proper service. the radial calipers on GSXR's look good but are only marginally better than the older lug type. you could however pop a set of radial R1 callipers on the USD forks but again not much gain.
here is something interesting, as far as i know you can put a set of the older R6/R1 blue spot callipers on the SV1000. i could be wrong but i do know its a popular swap for the older GSXR USD forks.
650 no I'm not moving to that london, not even if the job was servicing the bird in your avatar 40hr a week lol.
How much do you weigh? How many miles has bike?
Haha, don't blame you...effin' rip off down here.
I weigh around 155-160lb at the moment. Or 74-76kg depending on how you like it.
Bike has around 16k I think? Can't remember, ball park figure that. Everything's in exceptional condition for it's age - obviously if the fork oil's never been done (has stamps but no paperwork) then it'll need attention.
My bike's steering damper was OK when new, but didn't age well and became very non linear as it wore, by which I mean it had no discernible effect for ~5mm before anything happened and then got heavier toward the extremes, meaning there's no effect as you first move the steering then it bangs up against a load of resistance, this, unsurprisingly, does nothing to make it steer nice.
Mine repeated the no effect -> stiff about 4 times in the course of it's travel which is why it's no longer on the bike! Made for some interesting moments. GSXR one goes straight on if you want a new one but you need the bushes and stand-offs from the old one.
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