seized front caliper pin

[clarke135]

Hi, decided to do the simple job (was supposed to be) of changing the front brake pads as i havent changed them since i had the bike, i changed one set went to do the other side and i cant get the pin out that holds the pads in place i removed the r-clip and it will not move i sprayed it with wd40 to try help it free but it still dosent want to move, has anyone else had this problem before? not really sure what to do about it apart from buying a new caliper any help would be appreciated thanks.

[Jayneflakes]

This is fairly common, the pin is of a quality of steel that will rust badly, so all you can do is what you are doing. Soak with freeing oil, leave over night and try again tomorrow. A good pair of locking pliers can often increase your leverage, but may cause damage to the pin. Once you get the pin out and providing that it is not too damaged, rub it down with wire wool and then fine emery paper before refitting.

If things get really serious, then careful use of a fine jet blow torch may help free the pin. Care is needed though because you can easily damage the aluminium with too much heat.

[clarke135]

thanks for your reply guess i will give it another go tomorrow if i still cant get it out i might take the caliper off see if one of the local garages can get it out

[Dave-the-rave]

Not the end of the world if you can't get it out. Just remove and seperate the caliper, remove old pads, clean etc and insert new pads, reassemble and refit the caliper. Important thing is the pad slides on the pin and the caloper floats as it should.

Of course you'll have to go through that rigmarole again when the pads need changed again.

[timwilky]

Why WD40?

Use a long soak in a penetrating oil such as plus gas. Long nose mole grips and a twisting motion. If that doesn't work split them to get a good grip to pull the pins, but you will need a new seal as well as pins.

This problem is generally on new owners first SV. Most experienced owners spent 5 minutes the week they bought the SV, pulled the pins, a coating of copper grease and back on never to cause a problem. If only suzuki....... sorry forgot the don't use any grease in the factory

[Dalerst]

I had the same problem on Saturday, in the end I cut the pin in the middle and removed it that way, new pin came with my pads anyway so problem sorted.

[dirtydog]

It's been a while since I actually looked at the front caliper of an SV but I'm pretty sure that you can't "split" them as they're not opposed piston calipers

[timwilky]

True, I only just realised it was front the OP referred to.

[Dalerst]

It's been a while since I actually looked at the front caliper of an SV but I'm pretty sure that you can't "split" them as they're not opposed piston calipers

they cant be split that's why I ended up cutting the pin

[maviczap]

I had the rear pin seize, I carefully drilled a hole smaller than the pin on the opposite side and puched it out using a small pin punch when all the other options had failed.

Took quite a bit of wacking, so it wouldn't have pulled or twisted out with mole grips.

[garynortheast]

I drilled holes behind the pins on mine a couple of years back. Along with an application of Coppaslip it makes getting them out a breeze at pad change time.

[Docara]

Hi mate,

Recently been through this pain with my calipers.

I found the biggest problem was not being able to get decent levege to do anything. I striped them off the bike to carry out a 'quick' strip down and rebuild trouble was I had no vice to hold them etc THEN I found they were siezed.

Can you operate the caliper off the bike but with old pads (or similar) in place and force the bits apart?

Now, if you can secure the caliper firmly take out the pads and try and close the caliper with big rips or G-clamp or similer (with a couple of blocks to protect the paint work) to get the thing moving grease it / spray in with inything to get inside the 'female' part of the caliper then try and move it back out. Do this a few times and you might get lucky - the trick is do whatever you can to get the moving bits moving BUT NOT necesarily enough to separate the pins then just keep working it.
The other thing you could try is to have 2 (identical) wooden wedges over each outher so that the edges are square to the caliper and tap them together. The action of the wedges running dover each other should force the bits apart.

Make sure when you try and move the pins/slider bracket it is moving squarely you it will also stick.

With hindsight due to the grief I should have picked up a second have caliper and checked out the price of seals / rebuild kits from our favourite auction site.

PLEASE bear in mind copperslip and many petrochemical hydrocarbon 'stuffs' attack the rubber gaiters making them feel sort of thin and flimsy and effects the seals of the brakes PLEASE invest in proper 'RED RUBBER GREASE' £5 ish for the rebuild (it was designed primarily for reassembling brake (piston&seals) and pack it inside the sliders. Move the carriages in and out to allow the excess out before finally fitting the gaiters over the grooves.

Copperslip the metal to metal contact areas that DO NOT come into contact with rubber. Ever so lightly 'slip' the threads od the bolts but not so much as the hydraulic up on tightening.

When on the bench clean up bleed nipple threads and 'slip' them, I also lightly wrapped them in PTFE tape to create a tight seal on the threads ready for when I would later bleed the brakes.

Lastly, I had a issues trying to bleed the brakes. Somewhere on the forum someone suggested you bleed the master cylinder first (Im guessing by holding the main (long) pipe in the air then reattach it to the slpitter above the mudguard. I wish I did this!!!..


At time of writting WWW.svspares.com have pointy calipers in stock for £45. I have used them numerous times when I needed disks, indicators, rear brake brackets etc.

Hope this helps with some ideas

Matt