View Full Version : Riding position?
I seem to have a problem with how much weight I put on my wrists. I spent 3-4 hours in twisty parts of the peak district and even a day after my wrists hurt -
particularly my throttle wrist.
I'm young and healthy (and weigh 11 stone), so this really shouldn't be happening especially taking into consideration how forgiving the riding position of the
SV is, even the s
model.
So I'm thinking there is perhaps something wrong with my riding position.. I've only recently started to scoot backwards on the seat which has made a good
difference to control and comfort when at speed but there's still so much weight on my wrists. If I'm going over bumpy roads then I put weight on the footpegs
to load the suspension, this eases it off of my wrist but this is uncomfortable over long distances so it's always on the wrists.
When just cruising there's not a lot of weight on the footpegs.
So, can anyone suggest changes I can make to ease it off a bit?
I will not get rid of my clip ons for straight bars though. In fact, I won't change anything about the bike since I've had a similar problem with my last two bikes
and it's only going to get worse with going down the inline 4 sports bike route! So hopefully it's something wrong with how I'm sitting.
I will also accept the advice to just get over it and accept bikes that are uncomfortable (on the whole!).
You need some higher clipons. Helibars are a direct swap and no cables need altering, but I believe they are D/C'ing them soon. Acossato and others are not sv specific, but do fit. You may well need to alter clutch, brake and switch gear cables. Many people have done them and there are lots of threads if you search for them.
HTH
You need some higher clipons. Helibars are a direct swap and no cables need altering, but I believe they are D/C'ing them soon. Acossato and others are not sv specific, but do fit. You may well need to alter clutch, brake and switch gear cables. Many people have done them and there are lots of threads if you search for them.
HTH
Thank's for the advice - will go to this if I can't change anything else.
Would you expect the need to do this with someone who is 5 foot 9 though?
I wouldn't have thought so. I had the helibars on my old sv as I didn't find it very comfortable. Made it better as I did cornwall and a few all day rides, but the street triple was perfect :D
You need to strengthen your core muscles. This includes your lumbar region (lower back), trapezius and laterals (upper back), shoulders, chest and abdomen (stomach). By strengthening these muscles your body will be more inclined to keep itself supported, rather than relying on your wrists, arms and legs to keep the whole body supported.
You need to strengthen your core muscles. This includes your lumbar region (lower back), trapezius and laterals (upper back), shoulders, chest and abdomen (stomach). By strengthening these muscles your body will be more inclined to keep itself supported, rather than relying on your wrists, arms and legs to keep the whole body supported.
Again I can't see this hugely being the problem, I'm very active and exercise, particularly core strength, I swim and rock climb which both need it. So do you suggest I should just work a way of letting the rest of my body taking it?
How long have you had the bike?
my suggestion is stop riding with your arms straight.
If I'm going over bumpy roads then I put weight on the footpegs to load the suspension
what! how can you 'load the suspension' any more than the weight already on the bike, you can only shift the weight distribution by shifting your body mass you cant add any more mass to 'load' the suspension any more than there already is.
being fit or doing rock climbing etc has nothing to do with the core muscles you use for riding a motorcycle if it did then your wrists would not hurt. you use more lower back, shoulder and inner thigh muscles than you would normally.
grip the tank with your knees and bend your elbows so your forearms are as parallel to the road surface as possible. this makes your arms act like a hinge and doing so takes the weight off your wrists.
the other thing you have to do is set your levers up properly.
Sebulba
11-08-14, 06:27 AM
I had a similar problem and the thing that helped most were tank pads. They help you grip the tank with your knees and inner thighs thus taking the weight off your wrists.
Red Herring
11-08-14, 06:45 AM
How tight is the clothing around your lower arms and wrists? Anything that restricts movement or blood flow to the hands/wrists is going to lead to earlier fatigue. Even silly things like your watch strap being compressed by the cuff of your leathers can make a difference.
2nd checking the levers as well. As a general rule if you rest your fingers on them there should be a straight line down the top of your forearm extending along the back of your fingers. If your fingers are bent back then for most people they will be to high.
Yes grip pads are good but care is needed as some are quite abrasive and can wear out your leathers.
It like Bibo says with the forarm parallel to the road surface. Your have better control of the bike with less effort required to counter stear too.
Too much weight on the wrist will kill your arms.
I'm 52 middle aged spread. But can still ride 360 miles on an arze up 675.
Time to man up ;)
Niall_farley
11-08-14, 08:11 AM
What I do if I find I'm starting to lean on my wrists I arch my back and puff my chest out and it takes all the strain off your wrists and then relax and try again
Red Herring
11-08-14, 09:18 AM
What I do if I find I'm starting to lean on my wrists I arch my back and puff my chest out and it takes all the strain off your wrists and then relax and try again
Or just ride faster...?
I've only been riding a couple of years, so no expert but I found this video very useful to help reduce stress on the wrists.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlfN9Z6IlI0
Again I can't see this hugely being the problem, I'm very active and exercise, particularly core strength, I swim and rock climb which both need it. So do you suggest I should just work a way of letting the rest of my body taking it?
Use your legs, as others have said, to grip the tank with your knees. You should not be leaning on the bars at all. Handlebars are not there to support the rider. When on the bike your wrists/hands/arms should not be bearing any weight, they should be unburdened and relaxed for steering and control whilst your lower body/legs holds the bike and the abdomen and back support the body.
If this posture is something you're not used to it will take a little bit of time to get adjusted but once you're used to it wrist ache will diminish and control will improve.
carelesschucca
11-08-14, 10:49 AM
Use your legs, as others have said, to grip the tank with your knees. You should not be leaning on the bars at all. Handlebars are not there to support the rider. When on the bike your wrists/hands/arms should not be bearing any weight, they should be unburdened and relaxed for steering and control whilst your lower body/legs holds the bike and the abdomen and back support the body.
+1
always got told that bars are for control not supoorting your weight. it might take a bit of adjustment to start off with but you'll notice a difference in both your arms and how the bike handles.
Some really good advice, been out for a bit this morning and I keep my arms straight. Only over the last few weeks I've started to bend my arms when cornering (which has made a ridiculous amount of improvement, especially to active counter steering) so I know what I should be doing. No more straight arms!
I will grip the tank with my legs more too, which again, I have only just recently started doing.
3 weeks might not sound a lot but I've done 3000 miles in 2 months of being in Manchester (woo peak district!) and I've made a lot of improvements with my riding.
my suggestion is stop riding with your arms straight.
what! how can you 'load the suspension' any more than the weight already on the bike, you can only shift the weight distribution by shifting your body mass you cant add any more mass to 'load' the suspension any more than there already is.
being fit or doing rock climbing etc has nothing to do with the core muscles you use for riding a motorcycle if it did then your wrists would not hurt. you use more lower back, shoulder and inner thigh muscles than you would normally.
grip the tank with your knees and bend your elbows so your forearms are as parallel to the road surface as possible. this makes your arms act like a hinge and doing so takes the weight off your wrists.
the other thing you have to do is set your levers up properly.
By load the suspension I meant almost standing some of your weight on the footpegs, so your legs act like a hinge, plus it's comfortable. You probably do it I've just not explained it very well!
And my core strength is fine, I know for sure. (Core strength is vital when bouldering and the muscles being worked on a bike aren't that dissimilar). Especially since you don't have to be physically strong (including your core) to ride a bike, and if you're using a lot of muscle then something's being done wrong - like I've just realised! It's definitely down to my arms being kept straight and not parallel with the road.. I remember being taught this but everyone develops bad habits.
How tight is the clothing around your lower arms and wrists? Anything that restricts movement or blood flow to the hands/wrists is going to lead to earlier fatigue. Even silly things like your watch strap being compressed by the cuff of your leathers can make a difference.
2nd checking the levers as well. As a general rule if you rest your fingers on them there should be a straight line down the top of your forearm extending along the back of your fingers. If your fingers are bent back then for most people they will be to high.
All my gear fits perfectly, no discomfort or tightness.
The levers are at the right height, although could do with being brought closer in. I brake with my middle two fingers since my index doesn't reach properly. Which now I realise is pretty daft :rolleyes:.
I'm 52 middle aged spread. But can still ride 360 miles on an arze up 675.
Time to man up :wink:
In progress!
A while back I damaged my right wrist playing rugby, which doesn't help the situation which is why I want to change more fundamental stuff.
Thanks for the help everyone :riding:
Niall_farley
11-08-14, 11:05 AM
Or just ride faster...?
Best advice! To be fair I don't ache when going for it only if I'm doing a lot of motorway miles I get a bit of bum n back ache
I've only been riding a couple of years, so no expert but I found this video very useful to help reduce stress on the wrists.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlfN9Z6IlI0
Summed everything up nicely thanks!
All my gear fits perfectly, no discomfort or tightness.
The levers are at the right height, although could do with being brought closer in. I brake with my middle two fingers since my index doesn't reach properly. Which now I realise is pretty daft :rolleyes:.
Get some cheapo Chinese dog-leg levers, multi adjustable, less than £20 a pair, loads of colours available, tons of them on ebay.
Get some cheapo Chinese dog-leg levers, multi adjustable, less than £20 a pair, loads of colours available, tons of them on ebay.
These are on the list of what I want! New tyres set me back pretty far, but I guess I could stretch...
SvNewbie
11-08-14, 01:25 PM
Sorry if this has been mentioned before but for long distance rides (particularly involving motorway) I use of the crampbuster (http://crampbuster.com/) type wrist supports. The one I have is Oxford but its a small bit of plastic so doubt there is much difference between brands.
That and adjusting brake and clutch levers so they are in the correct position make the SV about 300 mile comfortable for me with my backside being the weakest link.
Sorry if this has been mentioned before but for long distance rides (particularly involving motorway) I use of the crampbuster (http://crampbuster.com/) type wrist supports. The one I have is Oxford but its a small bit of plastic so doubt there is much difference between brands.
That and adjusting brake and clutch levers so they are in the correct position make the SV about 300 mile comfortable for me with my backside being the weakest link.
Have considered this, but I don't often do much long distance commuting. I do almost all of my miles out having fun so I wouldn't get much use from cruise control!
How's your experience been with this product? Don't feel it's dangerous at all?
I'm thinking if heated grips would be a lot more comfortable for long distance journeys?
carelesschucca
11-08-14, 01:42 PM
I only use a scottoiler crampbuster when I'm doing big motoway miles. it takes a little getting used to but for long trips its perfect. when not in use I have it on my mirror so its easily accessible.
The other advice I got on arms was you should be able to flap them up and down like a bird if you can't then you've got too much weight through them. it looks and feels a little daft riding along moving you elbows up and down but it works for me...
I'm thinking if heated grips would be a lot more comfortable for long distance journeys?
Heated grips are one of the best mods I have on my bike. Not needed in the summer but keep you out having fun a lot longer during the other three seasons :)
SvNewbie
11-08-14, 02:12 PM
Oh the ones which actively hold the throttle open are probably a little bit more dangerous (more to people around you than yourself), but I'm only taking about the ones you rest your wrist on.
I've actually found that I can leave it on for the twisty parts without too many issues. If you set it at the right level you can basically use the throttle as normal then when you get to a straight reach down slightly to rest your wrist on it. Even on the best roads you'll be spending some of your time going straight and / or slowly.
Balky001
11-08-14, 02:16 PM
I've been having same issue recently if in slow traffic or long straight rides but that's my ages/dodgy knees and back. Really have to pull those stomach muscles in and use the knees/thighs as others have said.
I notice you said you sit back a bit. I must admit I user the Simon Crafar school of thought, nuts on the tank, that way a lot of the pressure is taken off your arms especially under heavy braking. Also, if you hit a bump your nuts don't have a run up before they slam in to the tank!!
It could also be you are sitting too upright, extending the arms more than needed. Relaxed elbows etc and only pressure on the bars is when you want to make the initial steering input
Corny Gizmo
11-08-14, 02:16 PM
The Crampbuster is not cruise control Foot, its somewhere to rest your palm, I put one on 2 months ago, took it off one night and found it a lot harder to ride.
It gives you easier, better throttle control and you wont even notice its there, £2.50 off Amazon.
The only problem I have ever had, sometime while braking you rev the bike slightly. Thats it, really recommend it mate
The other advice I got on arms was you should be able to flap them up and down like a bird if you can't then you've got too much weight through them. it looks and feels a little daft riding along moving you elbows up and down but it works for me...
I've no issue looking daft, when doing a long ride midway I'll go through a rigorous stretch routine involving every limb flapping about, standing up etc. who wants to be cramped up in a driving seat anyway! :cool:
Heated grips are one of the best mods I have on my bike. Not needed in the summer but keep you out having fun a lot longer during the other three seasons :smile:
On the ever growing list!
I notice you said you sit back a bit. I must admit I user the Simon Crafar school of thought, nuts on the tank, that way a lot of the pressure is taken off your arms especially under heavy braking. Also, if you hit a bump your nuts don't have a run up before they slam in to the tank!!
It could also be you are sitting too upright, extending the arms more than needed. Relaxed elbows etc and only pressure on the bars is when you want to make the initial steering input
I've only started sitting back a bit when going in a straight line, then I come forwards a bit when preparing for the corner entry. Definitely sitting upright too much!
I have plenty to work on now, I think the next bike I might get will be the Daytona 675, just by looking at it I can see I'll need to sort out my riding position.
Seem to need a disclaimer most times I mention the next bike I want, I'm not in any rush to get rid of my SV (I love it to pieces)
as I have lots more to learn on it and it is really a great bike - would recommend it to anyone. But it's okay to have an progressive idea!
The Crampbuster is not cruise control Foot, its somewhere to rest your palm, I put one on 2 months ago, took it off one night and found it a lot harder to ride.
Watched some videos, I understand now. Seems like a neat little addition - thanks for the heads up.
Now to put all of this to the test when the this hurricane finally gives in..
goodgumbo
11-08-14, 03:42 PM
That Crampbuster is a smart little gadget.
150 mile trip with a 5-10 minute stop so me and my bike could have a drink - kept my arms bent and I have absolutely no wrist/arm ache.
Was a little stiff when I arrived home, and very wet, I was too stubborn to put my waterproofs on and I swear the weather looked like it was going to clear up - but that's what you sign up for when riding a bike (o:
Thank you to everyone for your help, it was a stupid habit I developed after being taught to sit on a bike properly.
I have absolutely no wrist/arm ache.
Nice one :D
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