Top yoke change?

[divsims]

Hi Guys first time poster :) And its good to be here

Here's my question, Are there any other top yolk/handlebar set ups other than the naked sv650 that will fit the sv650 s without the hassle of changing to much, ie the v strom or the bandit that kinda thing. Any info will be much appreciated :cool:.

[jambo]

There's nothing else I know of that's a straight swap, but I've not looked into it previously. I certainly don't recall it being common. That may depend on the year (you don't mention if this is is for the curvy 99-02, or pointy 03+), but I can't think of an obvious candidate in either case.

Hopefully someone knows better than me and can think of something else.

Jambo

[Trev B]

Well I got the full kit for my 2013 L2 sv650s from TOP YOLKS,new top yolk,throttle cables,front brake Hell lines,risers and Renthal bars from them,went reasonable smoothly,wasn't quit as difficult as I thought,but had a bit of a job bleeding the front brakes that's all.i have seen some extended rising clip ons advertised on EBAY,but thought the kit was a far better option even though it was expensive,but the difference it makes is unbelievable!!!

[Jayneflakes]

When I was looking for a different top yoke for my pointy, I looked into this and found very little information out there. You could well be the first to try it and discover a hidden gem. This is where sale or return of parts comes in handy, or a mate with a scrap yard.

As it stands, I have a naked top yoke that I had customised with polishing and machining for custom risers that will be up for sale as soon as I can sort out my fork swap with Yorkie Chris. (R1 fork legs, gixxer yokes, R1 wheel and blue spot brakes. I am so excited, I could poo! ) :D

[divsims]

Thanks for the replies guys , More info would help :) Its blue 2001 with 8000 on the clock, great machine just my age is letting the bike down

[Machine]

if you are thinking of swapping to the N model yoke you would be sensible to check it has the same offset as the S model.

This is because on 2003 onwards models the N model offset is 1.5mm different to the S model, people don't realise this and hammer the yoke on flexing the forks and putting excessive pressure on the head bearings and altering the handling characteristics.

Some people would not even notice this but obviously it is not the thing to do.

I would expect the 1999-02 model to be the same.

Be wary of advice given on public forums, just because it had been done before does not mean it is safe to do so!

The person giving the advice might not be qualified to offer safe advice or may of just ripped the advice from another forum or post!

If in doubt ask a motorcycle shop mechanic or engineer and if you are going to drill an original cast yoke then make sure it is done by a professional engineer who is qualified to do the job and will make sure it is safe.

It may only be a small bike but it still travels very fast and you are relying on that topyoke for all your control input.

[Jayneflakes]

I hate to piddle on your fireworks, but there are quite a few very experienced home and professional mechanics and engineers on this very forum, many of whom will answer a question purely to spread information that is both helpful and safe. Although you may not have meant it as such, it is not very nice to assume that every one is talking out of their bottom.

I will also add that the N model top yoke modification I used was done under the advisement of my partner, formerly a professional bike mechanic (and instructor) and my Brother in Law, a senior manager in the spares department of Bristol Fowlers. There was no forcing to the degree you are describing.

It did change the handling though, it raised my handle bars by seven inches and made the bike considerably more comfortable, putting my centre of gravity a little further back. :winner:

[Machine]

So you used the N model bottom yoke as well then, a complete front end swap?

[Machine]

I measured the N yoke and the S yoke years ago when we first started manufacturing them. We use a probe that measures to 1000th of a millimetre sat on a 45k vertical milling machine bed.

SV650S Topyoke Offset 28 mm

SV650N Topyoke Offset 26.5 mm

It's 1.5mm different so should not be fitted, it may slide onto the stem and forks ok but this is because the forks flex. This will not do the head bearings any good and will affect the handling.

I'm am not doubting that there are competent people on this forum I am simply saying if you use the N model topyoke on an S model bike then it is not a safe option as the parts are different.

[Bibio]

i was also under the impression that the naked and sport version of yokes were slightly different regarding offset but a lot of members seem to think that they are the same due to it being so small that i fear a lot of people are slightly forcing the naked top yoke onto sport lower yoke.

TBH if the sport yoke is drilled out properly and supported by a fillet i see nothing wrong in doing so. problems will occur if there is a fracture in the cast going threw the drill point as it will spread due to the force. the best way you can fit risers to a sport yoke is to drill affix then weld the bar mount in place.

there is a whole host of other problems with just hacking a yoke on and thats the control cable/switches and most people bodge this as well.

to do it right you need the naked clutch cable, brake lines, extended throttle cables and extend switchgear cabling.

yes Matt does a whole kit but even that is not comprehensive enough for my liking. bloody good product though and very well made.

[Teejayexc]

Ooh "probe", I like the alternative thoughts the different interpretation of words can conjure in my imagination. :cool:


Tongue and Groove, ream, flange are just a selection. Any more? :p

[Bibio]

bore, sliding fit, enlarge hole, grind, surface dress, grease it up :-)

so you could always enlarge the hole to get a sliding fit and if that dont work you could always resort to greasing it up.

maybe start a new thread.....

[Machine]

More comprehensive now bibio 😀

You get the topyoke and risers

Stainless steel front brakeline kit complete
Clutch cable
Throttle cables
Reservoir relocation bolt with info (very easy to do)

I make the yokes as everyone knows

I also now make the HEL brakelines and the cables all in my workshop, we use all HEL fittings and I have an automatic swagging machine

ALL parts including cables have lifetime warranty

The only thing I don't supply is handlebars as we send a huge proportion of kits abroad (bars are readily available in the UK at all bike shops)

So sending large parcels abroad means high postage for a relatively low value item like a bar.

[Machine]

Oh nearly forgot, the whole kit is now £5 plus vat cheaper than 5 years ago and now with free postage!

[Bibio]

hey Matt, if your making the throttle cables in house then can you please make them a bit shorter as i feel they are way to long. also maybe offer them up separate as mine are getting a bit past their best. ooohhh one more thing you dont need those silly mid adjusters as i have neeeevvveeeerrr used them.

[Machine]

I do make them about 50mm shorter now. Would this work with your bars? We changed the bar we recommend to one with more sweep so not as much of a stretch. Slightly narrower too!


New website coming very soon with all parts available seperately, click on link and sign up to be emailed when it go's live

http://www.topyokes.uk

[Bibio]

50mm sounds about right even to fit high renthals but it might just be a tight fit on MX bars.

there is way to much on the old cables with gillies vario 100mm risers which comes out to about the same hight as renthal low bars.

[TamSV]

If I was swapping faired to naked I'd go for Matt's kit. Excellent quality and no bodging required.

If you keep all the old bits and swap back to standard when you sell the bike, I reckon the topyokes kit will still be worth 2/3rds of what you paid for it.

Provided you can afford the initial outlay of course.

[Bibio]

i agree, i would say the only thing missing from Matt's kit are switchgear extensions but when i get my arz back into gear they will be available from me.

[Blapper]

I'm just doing the top yoke swap now. Did you ever get round to making the wiring extensions @Bibio? I don't know if I'll need them for sure until I fit it all, but if I do it may be sensible to get them from you.

[Bibio]

I'm just doing the top yoke swap now. Did you ever get round to making the wiring extensions @Bibio? I don't know if I'll need them for sure until I fit it all, but if I do it may be sensible to get them from you.

none in stock and i'm up to my eyeballs is stuff just now.

i dont know about the curvy as i have never done a conversion on one so i dont know if the switchgear connectors are held in place. if they are then you need to disconnect them from what ever they are attached to to gain the extra length needed.

as per PM's i doubt very much you will need to change anything with using low bars.

[maviczap]

as per PM's i doubt very much you will need to change anything with using low bars.

Yep, id agree, mine's fine on my Variobar set up. They're a bit higher than stock, but not that high.

[DuncanC]

I've just done a top yoke change on a curvy and gone to high super bike bars. I struggled to find space to hide all the extra wiring I have found myself with.

[Blapper]

OK guys, good to know. I've sent the Ali off for anodising now, so I'll have a fortnight to do other tweaks before I can fit it all. Thanks.