Chain oiler that doesn't need "babying"

[aesmith]

Hi,

I had vacuum operated Scottoilers on previous bikes, and for the last two years I've had a Tutoro Auto on the SV. With both to keep an eye on them at all times, and keep tweaking the control to keep the flow rate at a reasonable level, and make sure they're actually working at all. If they stop it doesn't take long for the chain to run dry.

At the moment I'm getting fed up with the Tutoro, almost every time it's topped up the flow rate goes to pot, this time it's stopped altogether even though I've opened the control probably a total of 1 1/2 turns. Going by past experience, once it starts flowing again I'll be able to close the control down and it will work fine for a week or so.

So I thought it worth asking around, which chain oiler is best from the point of view of consistent operation? I just use the bike for commuting, but it's 30 miles each way so in pouring rain I could probably destroy the chain in two days if the oiler stopped working.

Cheers, Tony S

[NTECUK]

Erm what oil are you using.
I've got a 5 year old Scott and it's not temperature fool proof but not so rubbish I'd try something else

[maviczap]

Here's an alternative to both you've tried

http://www.pdoiler.co.uk/

Posted up by another Orger recently

[aesmith]

Erm what oil are you using.
Cheers. In the Scottoilers I used their oil exclusively. In the Tutoro I've been using various oils, motor oil, Scottoil, chainsaw bar oil, but for the last 9 months or so it's always been engine oil. I'd expect to have to reset the rate if I changed the type of oil.

My Scottoiler experience was it needed tweaking almost all the time, and quite often stopped working and needed to be purged through before it would restart. After 5 years it stopped and nothing would make it start again, so I replaced it like for like and that one stayed working for three years or so until I sold the bike.

I wouldn't say rubbish, but the Scottoilers were sufficiently temperamental that I thought it worth trying something different now there's a choice available. Plus point with the Scott is that you can see it working with the bike idling, which helps get it initially set up.

[NTECUK]

The lube tube add on is very good idea on the scot.
But like you say if it gives up. Rusty chain in one days commute :(
Shaft or belt drive do look appealing.

[aesmith]

The lube tube add on is very good idea on the scot.
But like you say if it gives up. Rusty chain in one days commute :(
Shaft or belt drive do look appealing.
You don't want to know what comes up if you Google for "lube tube"! I found it on Scottoil's web site though. Interesting idea, but probably not needed for my use where I'm only doing 300 miles a week and it's no problem topping up every week. In fact if I swapped to Scottoiler I might consider the Mini system if it's easier to find somewhere to mount it.

[NTECUK]

You don't want to know what comes up if you Google for "lube tube"! I found it on Scottoil's web site though. Interesting idea, but probably not needed for my use where I'm only doing 300 miles a week and it's no problem topping up every week. In fact if I swapped to Scottoiler I might consider the Mini system if it's easier to find somewhere to mount it.

Sorry had to Google it.
Lol I don't thinks I can keep a "straight " face after that experience. :smt104
Maybe Scott should re name it....
http://scottoiler-aust.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/LubeTube02.jpg

[Bibio]

i dont understand why you feel the need to keep twiddling with the flow on a scottoiler. yes the oil can be temperature dependant but that goes for all the oilers coz they use ermmm oil. the only ones that are not temperature dependant are those pulse spray type.

one of the biggest problems with scottoilers is not cleaning the output nib often enough, these get clogged up so need to be popped out and blown through. another one is that people put the nib directly onto the surface of the sprocket which in turn rubs the nib point the wrong way round so blocks the feed the nib needs to be 2-3mm away from the sprocket, which brings me to the last part about the nibs.. you have to make the cut at 45deg point away from the sprocket or it gets blocked.

the flow rate should not need tweaked all the time, once set it will flow how it flows and that will be outside temperature dependant. a lot of people are scared that oil gets on their back tyre.. well to date i have never ever had a problem with excess oil on my back tyre due to a scottoiler but i do use proper scottoil as its semi water soluble.

i'm ripping my lube tube out as i have had nothing but problems with it. but the scottoiler is staying as i think they are the best. i have had 25k from a chain and sprocket which is good going but since i'm stupid and leave my bike outside the chain gets rusty so i think its time for a new one. apart from the rust the chain and sprocket would more that likely go another 25k no problems.

[aesmith]

i dont understand why you feel the need to keep twiddling with the flow on a scottoiler.
It wasn't really a question of "feeling the need", if the flow rate is wrong it needs to be adjusted. To be fair the problem I had more often with the Scottoilers (both) was that they'd stop working altogether rather than varying the rate. The fix was normally just to bleed them through again, but occasionally I had to dismantle the whole thing and flush it through. This was a few years ago, maybe they're better nowadays.

[Bibio]

the only time they stop working is if you run completely dry of oil then you need to prime the system again.. or the feed nib is blocked. i have never ever had to 'flush' a scottoiler.

[aesmith]

I might change back to be honest. My previous experience was a while ago and Scottoiler was the only option. On the other hand Tutoro have offered to service/repair the unit with only a postage charge, so I might take them up on that if it still gives problems after a full clean out.

[admin]

I can second bibio's comments. Never had a problem but I do adjust as the seasons change. You do have to consider where you mount them, not a good idea to put them near something hot like the rear exhaust as I find to my cost on a curvy SV. I set the drip rate spot on when cold only to find the exhaust heat thinned the oil and it poured out.

[embee]

I have the PD Oiler on my NC and I'm pretty happy with it. It is effectively a positive displacement pump with an adjustable timer, so in theory isn't affected by oil viscosity (type of oil, temperature etc)


The only annoying thing with the integral units is that they are not see-through so you have to use a plastic tube "dipstick" to check how much oil is left in it, PITA. They do a remote reservoir and separate valve block type which does let you see the level providing you have somewhere to fit it, I'd suggest this type if at all possible.


Gets a thumbs up from me anyway.

[Heorot]

My bike had scotoiler already fitted when I bought it. The reservoir is under the pillion seat and the delivery tube doesn't discharge over the sprocket but instead about 9 inches in front of it. Virtually no clogging of the pipe; only had to clear it once in 3 years.

[Fen Tiger]

If you want to go to a simple system have a look at the Loobman. I have had their system on two bikes and can say that it worked well. The injector arrangement works well and it is good to be able to only oil when you want. No vacuum or electrical connection just push a button and gravity does the rest. Can get a bit oily around the reservoir over time.

Having said the above, I also like the Scottoiler (I only have experience of the vacuum operated system) and have fitted one to my Pointy. I got used to the easy access of the Loobman on my last bike so have fitted the Scottoiler RMV to the nearside pillion footrest bracket rather than under the seat. It will not win any beauty contest but is functional. I had the RMV underseat on another bike before and I found it dropped some oil which I found annoying. I ended up having to cable tie a little catch tray under it which was all a bit Heath Robinson.

I have run the touring reservoir and the lubetube in the past but now prefer to carry some extra oil in a bottle and top up on a long tour. The touring reservoir worked well but it is not recommended by Scottoiler for the SV. I did have some water ingress but that was easily sorted by flushing the RMV with WD40. I did not get on with the Lubetube.

To answer your question, I don't think there is an oiling system which does not require careful monitoring to prevent too much oil on the tyre tread. The benefits are smooth running and long component life. Also, reduced/no chain adjustment hassle is good when on tour. Well worth the effort of fitment and monitoring flow but I also appreciate that if you have no oiler fitted there is a peace of mind to be had by no oil going on the chain whilst travelling.

[aesmith]

Cheers guys. I think the Scottoiler must have improved significantly since my previous experience.

[Specialone]

I fecking hate the things, I inherited one on a bike and had nothing but hassle with it, so I just went back to the old fashioned way and sprayed it every 300 miles or so, I spent less time messing with the chain this way.
I did 7k miles on an off road bike and adjusted the chain one click in all that time, I also bought a brand new triumph sprint and put 13.5k miles on that and chain was lubed manually, that wasn't adjusted at all, so I must've been doing something right.
I sell my bikes before hitting 20k miles so if the chain and sprockets last that long I'm happy.

[Trev B]

There doesn't seem to be a definitive answer to this oiler job,going off at a slight tangent,many years ago I used to commute on my trusty suzuki 120 student,That had a fully enclosed chain cover with a small rubber bung that served as an inspection / oiling hole,in 4 years only adjusted it twice and oiled it every 6 months,ugly bustard but worked brilliant!!!

[NTECUK]

If you can keen the crapola off a chain and oil it properly it's got a very long service life.
It's just fashion bikes don't have enclosed chains.

[aesmith]

Agree on the enclosed chain. My MZ 250 had the chain enclosed in a solid cover around the rear sprocket, with rubber tunnels enclosing the top and bottom runs. It was oil tight so the chain ran in a sort of slurry of clean oil and grease, and you could even check the tension without removing the enclosure.