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View Full Version : Throttle body adjustment order K3


JonSV
14-02-15, 05:17 PM
Evening All,

I've searched around the forum but can't see a complete answer to this. My K3 fast idle isn't working so I'm planning to do all the throttle body adjustments. I think this is a sensible order to do them in, but does anything look wrong, anything that might affect an earlier adjustment?

STV sync
TV sync
STP sensor adj
Fast idle adj
TP sensor adj

Anything else I've missed that is worth doing while I'm in there?

Thanks,

Jon

Bibio
14-02-15, 05:19 PM
explain the fast idle is not working.... whats the symptoms?

JonSV
14-02-15, 05:23 PM
Idles at about 1000 revs and needs some throttle to start it and to stop it stalling when cold, increases to about 1200 when warm.

Bibio
14-02-15, 05:27 PM
first off get the bike up to temp, then turn the tickover up till its at 13-1400 revs. that usually solves it.

set your TPS.

balance your throttle bodies remembering that you will need to play with the tickover again.

how new is the air filter?

if that still dont work then and only then mess with the cold idle adjuster.

JonSV
14-02-15, 05:33 PM
Thanks Bibio - I'll give that a go. Air filter is new, and it was the same with the old filter. I had a bit of trouble getting the filter to fit the air box though, it's a hi flow one and seemed to be slightly too small.

Bibio
14-02-15, 05:36 PM
almost forgot... it can also be a dodgy thermostat switch on the rad as this tells the ECU when the bike is at a correct temp and cut back.

the last thing you should mess with is the fast idle enrichment valve.

JonSV
14-02-15, 09:10 PM
Just been tinkering in the garage ready to do the tps and throttle body sync tomorrow - removed air box, replaced the tps torx bolts with hex bolts, made and tested a "dealer mode tool", made a ghetto balance thing with hose and 2 stroke oil, found the connection points to make sure it all fits.

So my question - can I connect the balance tube before warming the engine? The only problem I can see would be if it is further out of balance when cold than warm risking sucking the oil in on one side. My fat fumbling fingers struggled with the port covers and connecting the tube when cold, particularly the front one, so I would prefer not to have to do it with hot bits of engine so close If I can avoid it.

Cheers,

Jon

Bibio
14-02-15, 09:27 PM
yes you can connect your ghetto vacuum gauge before you start the bike, just dont rev it to much but since you are using 2t then no harm will be done.

no need to remove airbox on K3>6 as adjuster screw is right in front of you and can usually be turned by finger.

remember its the bottom screw you adjust and dont touch the STV adjuster screw or its out with the verynears.

also remember that you will need to adjust the tickover (hold the throttle ever so slightly open when you turn the adjuster) as you go giving the throttle a tiny turn to settle everything afterwords. the bike will take a few seconds to settle again. once you have got everything in spec use a bit of nail polish or threadlok to hold screw in place.

i adjust everything during a service and change the plugs after the adjustments then check again while everything is still connected.

BTW every home mechanic should have a set of vacuum gauges.

for others reading this thread the vacuum can only be adjusted up to K6 after that the twin spark heads come in and you need the OBD service tool to do the job.

JonSV
15-02-15, 11:45 AM
Job done. Nearly.

TPS was set at about 4500, managed to get it to about 1600 so should be an improvement there.

Not sure I agree about the vacuum guages - the ghetto worked fine if you are patient. It does take a while to settle to it's final position, but surely as you are measuring the cylinders directly against each other this method is more accurate than seperate guages? Anyway, it started off the range (about 1m of oil) so I had to clamp the hose to stop it sucking through to the rear cylinder. Final position was about 1cm out at 1300 revs, so it definitely needed doing.

Just need to wait for it to cool down now to refit the vacuum caps, which will probably be the most difficult part of the job, and check whether it's improved the cold idle speed.

Thanks for the advice Bibio - hopefully that's all the tinkering done with for a while.