Radiator permanent fix?

[Matt-EUC]

I have a hole in my rad. Besides radweld, is there a way to permanently fix it?

[NTECUK]

I have a hole in my rad. Besides radweld, is there a way to permanently fix it?

That implies rad-weld is a fit >
Its not.
A new rad or re core

[Bibio]

silver solder.

[Matt-EUC]

How skilful would one have to be to not burn a bigger hole in the rad?

[Bibio]

fairly but you need a jewellers torch but the kit including the bottles is more than the cost of the radiator. you could try one of those soldering guns rather than an iron.

[Matt-EUC]

I have only soldering irons.

Also, the new rad is £500.

[Nutsinatin]

You could talk to these guys (http://www.aaronradiator.co.uk). When a bolt went through the radiator on my old SV I bought a new one from here. They should be able to re-core it for you cheaper than buying a new one. They're nearer than other places + they don't sell a V strom rad, perhaps suggest to them that they use yours as a template for their range and see if you can wrangle a discount that way? Do you actually ride bikes or do you just break them? No oil, mating with a van, whatever it was in for repairs last week, this... ;)

[Matt-EUC]

It was the strom in last week for the fork seals.

[Nutsinatin]

Is the rad for the strom or the SV?

[Matt-EUC]

Strom.

[Nutsinatin]

Strom.

As per my first response then, just thought I had better made sure!

[Bibio]

depends where its leaking from, so lets get this straight... you had the fork seals replaced and now you have a leaking radiator?

[Matt-EUC]

Yarp.

[Matt-EUC]

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/07/eda435c35721de345377327212d84ba8.jpg


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[Bibio]

that needs a recore. only suggestion i can make is to cut the offending area and then close off both ends to seal the fin by rolling both ends and crimping shut. yes you will loose a tiny little cooling function but in the overall its not going to make that much of a difference.

that rad guard was a waste of money then.

[Matt-EUC]

Bugger.


And yes, the rad guard did bugger all. I contacted the company and all they did was say it's only the third time they've had negative feedback.

[NTECUK]

Get some mesh and make up your own guard.
You got a fenda extender.

[wideguy]

Bugger.


And yes, the rad guard did bugger all. I contacted the company and all they did was say it's only the third time they've had negative feedback.
Perhaps it's only the third one they've sold? Big holes in a rad protector will let in big rocks.
Is it fixed yet? Both the silly side radiators on my RC-51 have had epoxy repairs for years now, I'm almost ready to call them permanent.

[Scoobs]

Clean up the area and use epoxy. I've holed a radiator three times and each time successfully fixed it with epoxy. I was out with the GM lot when I holed the rad on my R1 and I got home after holing my rad by sticking some chewing gum over the hole. Did 30 miles on that "fix". Made a right f'ing mess though. What have you got to lose?

[rictus01]

I remember that chewing gum...

[NTECUK]

B & Q did a copper pipe repair putty.
Worth a look.

[Matt-EUC]

I've radwelded and superglued the outside. It appears to be holding firm after 100+ miles.

[NTECUK]

Super glue dissolves in water

Use araldite or similar

[jambo]

Radweld is not a good shout, if it was me I would flush all the coolant out, fill the rad with water a couple of times, drain that and replace with coolant. Please.

Like some of the others here I have used Epoxy (araldite) to replair a rad before. To fix an area live the one you have I cut the fins away carefully above and below the leak with a knife, then rubbed the bar with the hole with some fine wet & dry to key the surface and used Araldite and some cloth or wire to make a wrap around the bar, then I let it dry. A light spray of black afterwards and you couldn't see it unless you looked.

Jambo

[timwilky]

My dad used to own a radiator repairers, so I have plenty of experience as a kid of repairing rads. There is only one sure method. A re-core.

Otherwise, you need to remove the top/bottom tanks and then soak the core in an acid bath to clean it.

Then a blob of solder at either end of the holed tube. Reassemble core/tanks.

To test, blank hose fittings with a rubber bung, a washer either side and a nut/bolt through. As you squeeze the bung, it expands to seal the hole. fit an air line with about 3-5 psi and drop it into a water tank and looks for leak bubbles. If OK, refit. Careful with the pressure you do not want to rupture the core and make sure those bungs are tight. I have seen them fly 30ft smashing a window on their way.

Sounds like hard work, it is. that is why it costs for a repair. Especially with modern plastic tanks that need to be bonded. Old fashioned soldered was far easier.

[timwilky]

My dad used to own a radiator repairers, so I have plenty of experience as a kid of repairing rads. There is only one sure method. A re-core.

Otherwise, you need to remove the top/bottom tanks and then soak the core in an acid bath to clean it.

Then a blob of solder at either end of the holed tube. Reassemble core/tanks.

To test, blank hose fittings with a rubber bung, a washer either side and a nut/bolt through. As you squeeze the bung, it expands to seal the hole. fit an air line with about 3-5 psi and drop it into a water tank and looks for leak bubbles. If OK, refit. Careful with the pressure you do not want to rupture the core and make sure those bungs are tight. I have seen them fly 30ft smashing a window on their way.

Sounds like hard work, it is. that is why it costs for a repair. Especially with modern plastic tanks that need to be bonded. Old fashioned soldered was far easier.

[Bibio]

you can get pipe repair putty that is two part, just mix and squeeze on.

[NTECUK]

Yep this
http://kingfisher.scene7.com/is/image/Kingfisher/bnqTemplate1?$overlayHide=1&$product=Kingfisher/5000403106069_01c&wid=280&hei=280