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gt900uk
07-04-15, 08:13 PM
Currently faced with this, can anyone point me in the direction of a suitable stud extractor to have a bash at getting these out? Shall subject it to some heat cycles and penetrating fluid.
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo101/gt900uk/20150407_181925.jpg

jambo
08-04-15, 09:22 AM
Not fun.

My opening thought would be that if they were stuck in the threads good enough to snap off, then they are probably going to snap off flush with the head if you get anything else on them.

Last time I was faced with this I just bit the bullet, pulled the head off and took it to a local engineering firm who removed them without too much trouble.

When those nuts don't come off easily I just cut them off and save the stud.

Jambo

gt900uk
08-04-15, 02:05 PM
They were just cap head bolts, not actual studs. Extractor might be worth a try if they snap further in its less to remove :)

jambo
08-04-15, 02:16 PM
Ah, pointy, yes the curvy has nice thick studs and nuts which can be cut off.

I'd be soaking in your penetrating oil of choice often in advance.

Jambo

timwilky
08-04-15, 02:18 PM
stud extractors are notoriously problematic, they tend to snap. then you have the fun of trying to drill out hardened steel.

Personally I would remove the head so that it can be properly lined up to drill out the broken studs (with a left handed drill)

TamSV
08-04-15, 02:24 PM
Don't bother with easy-outs there - or anywhere else for that matter.

I've had decent success with the socket type extractor, like this (https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/tool-connection-tc3986-impact-stud-extractor?da=1&TC=GS-040213986). Better than the cam type (http://www.autosessive.com/products/61995/stud-remover-installer?gclid=CL6u-b_z5sQCFajHtAodAXMAzQ) IME. In any event the cam one won't fit in that space on the right of your pic.

A bit of penetrating fluid - probably useless as it's not easy to make it run uphill but it makes me feel better.

Also gave mine a blast with a can of freeze spray first and they eased out with the extractor. Make sure the extractor is fully on the stud and go easy.

If that doesn't work it'll probably need drilled out.

gt900uk
08-04-15, 02:57 PM
Thanks guys, yes plusgas on the case. It was the socket types I was thinking so shall check them out. Might see if can get a nut welded onto the end. Bloody pain in the ****!!!

gt900uk
09-04-15, 11:32 AM
Finally got the exhaust off the bike at least so will be able to get the swing arm bearings done. Just need to sort the studs. Is the gasket visible in the picture below? Should I replace it with a new one or see how it goes once re fitted? The brackets mounted to the pipes that attach under the engine are gubbed what do people generally do to replace the nut and bolt arrangement under these?

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo101/gt900uk/20150409_121707.jpg

stuR
10-04-15, 08:38 PM
after trying very unsucessfully to drill out, i wouldnt recommend. try moled grips with heat and it not get a welder to weld something on to turn them out as normal?

DJ123
11-04-15, 10:45 AM
I helped Winder do his the other week. The studs snapped off as yours did. We successfully managed to drill them out, steadily increasing the drill size & removed the old stud. Cleaned the thread up and put new ones in.
It takes time, patience and having the right tools for the job.

embee
11-04-15, 12:14 PM
It looks like those screws were stainless steel. If you do put stainless fasteners into alum alloy, use a suitable anti-seize compound, either an aluminium based version or preferably a nickel type like this (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NICKEL-ANTI-SEIZE-COMPOUND-FOR-STAINLESS-STEEL-SYSTEMS-HIGH-TEMP-/390933340912?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5b057162f0) especially in a hot application like exhaust studs.


Good luck getting them out. I think apart from trying some good penetrating fluid (Plusgas or similar, WD40 isn't good enough) and tapping the end with a light hammer, plus some heat, and repeat, the only option will be progressive drilling out. Used a good sharp drill bit too, if it isn't cutting freely it isn't sharp, even in A4 stainless.


For an M8x1.25 fastener the thread core size is about 6.8mm. I'd try starting at about 3mm drill and work up towards 6mm.

Bibio
11-04-15, 02:02 PM
for getting penetrating fluid into up hill bolts mould some clay/putty and make a trough around the bolt with an opening at the top high enough so the fluid when creeping will get to the end of the bolt. make sure you get a good seal with the clay/putty.

as embee says tapping the end with a nail punch helps loosen off the oxidisation around the thread.

gt900uk
11-04-15, 07:36 PM
Did you just use a hand drill when you drilled them out? My neighbour has suggested welding on an extension as an option to save any hassle. Unfortunately I didn't fit these bolts so not sure what the are or why they have no anti seize on them. I got myself some reverse drill bits in the event of drilling them out.

gt900uk
11-04-15, 07:54 PM
What part am I heating with blow torch? The bolt or around the bolt?

gt900uk
17-04-15, 01:07 PM
All fixed :)http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo101/gt900uk/20150417_135831.jpg

TamSV
17-04-15, 03:49 PM
Well done. :salut:

How did you deal with it in the end?

gt900uk
17-04-15, 04:10 PM
Drilled them out and re tapped. Fitted stainless studs and bolts with anti seize compound, so hopefully no issues in the future!