View Full Version : Finally a brilliant Gyro Camera for bikes!
Redmist
16-04-15, 12:29 PM
As some of you may now I've been on a quest since October 2013 to build / find a gyro cam for my bike to create footage similar to the Moto GP boys.
(Original thread is here: http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=205035)
After a few different attempts, I have found the perfect solution for my needs.
It uses a GoPro style camera and can be run from a battery or the bikes 12V supply.
Small enough to pass Race day scrutineering, lightweight, strong and can be mounted anywhere on the bike.
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Designed by Mosci in Germany and now I've built one for myself.
You can too thanks to a build log I have created in collaboration with Mosci.
http://netz-weit.de/Motorcycle_Gyrocam_APMGC.png
I tested mine out two days ago and it works perfectly but the video above is more interesting than my commute to work!
All parts are available online and are linked in the parts list PDF file.
If you wanted one but didn't want to build one yourself I am offering to build them for an introductory low price which is not that much above the cost price as you would find out from looking at the parts list.
The price includes a donation to Mosci for all his hard work in designing it.
The link to the build log (Will be finished by the weekend) and parts list is here:
http://www.pegdownracing.com/gyrocam.html
Contact me via PM or thru my website for details on costs if required.
The Guru
16-04-15, 01:14 PM
This is pretty cool. :cool:
Excellent stuff. From what I can see, the magic is in the mount. So any way this can be used for another type of cam? Say a Drift?
And, don't kill us with suspense. Give us a rough idea of cost - built/unbuilt.
Redmist
16-04-15, 05:49 PM
Sadly the work involved with using a drift would not be worthwhile. Id say it'd be easier to just buy a 50quid gopro clone and off u go.
Sadly the work involved with using a drift would not be worthwhile. Id say it'd be easier to just buy a 50quid gopro clone and off u go.
What? I thought you lot liked a challenge?
Anyway, good work.
it's not only done with a different camholder ... even if they have nearly the same weight - because of the other form of the drift, the leverage will be bigger, so more force on the motor-axis while riding over the curbs ;-) thus a bigger/greater motor will be required - while most of the people uses GoPro or similar like Rollei 4S/5S which will also fit ... or the mentioned clone sj4000, which I used to simulate a hero3
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spend me a drift ...some time ... and I will accept the challenge - but - you schould place a couple of pund to a dispositary before ;-) lets say 200 GBP - let's say a time-frame of 4 weeks?
:smt040 :riding: :smt040
Very good - loved Macau. Shows how much effort it takes just to get around (quickly).
spend me a drift ...some time ... and I will accept the challenge - but - you schould place a couple of pund to a dispositary before ;-) lets say 200 GBP - let's say a time-frame of 4 weeks?
:smt040 :riding: :smt040
I would do that...someone would do that! If you're serious, then I'm sure something can be arranged.
@ Runako
I don't think that the result will be comparable to the GoPro-Version as long
as it's build out of plastic - I assume you should use at least aluminium
the bigger leverage will cause more/longer vibrations -
I'm pretty sure about that - but not sure at all.
do you have a friend - or .. does someone here got access to 'cnc-tooling' ?
It don't worth the effort for one piece ... I would better spend my time on more promising projects ;-)
this can be a very simple & lowbudget 'drift prototype' ;-)
this guy seems to have modified my unit to a drift-unit
https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CC3uriTWAAAPSjv.jpg
and the result is like expected - a lot more of vibration comes into place
n5eOp-T1AZ8
http://forums.sv650.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=15015&stc=1&d=1429343248
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this can be a very simple & lowbudget 'drift prototype' ;-)
this guy seems to have modified my unit to a drift-unit
https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CC3uriTWAAAPSjv.jpg
and the result is like expected - a lot more of vibration comes into place
n5eOp-T1AZ8
Ok Mosci, I understand what your saying. But looking at the video above, the vibrations seem to be because the track is particularly bumpy, especially on the main straight. We can see this from the movement of the rider. Otherwise I think this setup worked really well.
But I take the point. I think you guys have done an awesome job so far. And if you hadn't tried to bring some crazy ideas to life then you would not have come this far. So well done :)
Redmist
24-04-15, 08:54 PM
Yeah the Drift "Mod" works ok but the camera lens is definitely moving lots and creating the "Jelly" effect.
Like you say worse on the high speed straights tho.
Redmist
23-06-15, 11:58 AM
Update:
We had an interesting sale recently, supplying the Marc VDS Moto 2 team with a unit which they used and developed themselves at a recent test at Aragon, Spain.
The settings we supplied it with, which we use for normal human beings needed tweaking for the extreme riding conditions of Tito Rabat and Alex Marquez!!
The team representative we've been dealing with is supplying us with the data from their testing so technically we can say its been developed by Tito and Alex! (Tongue in cheek!)
The videos are here which features the use of the Gyrocam we supplied:
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how do you stop the camera shake?
Nobbylad
23-06-15, 01:57 PM
Can you (or anyone else) recommend some good overlay software, i.e. to show speed/position etc. I used RaceChrono previously with various results. Pretty sure there was a really good one but only for Nokias?
maviczap
23-06-15, 02:19 PM
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Just been on there and found loads of mounts that I've been looking for! :thumbsup:
Redmist
23-06-15, 04:41 PM
how do you stop the camera shake?
The biggest single thing I've found to be a cause of camera shake on motorbikes is the slide in gopro clip. There is sufficient play in the mount to really create nasty shake. Use some duct tape over the centre ridge until the mount is solid. Are you using a Gopro or similar?
Can you (or anyone else) recommend some good overlay software, i.e. to show speed/position etc. I used RaceChrono previously with various results. Pretty sure there was a really good one but only for Nokias?
There is a comment in one of the Marc VDS videos on youtube where someone reccomends the use of "Dashware" to do overlays. But I've only ever used RaceChrono too.
Just been on there and found loads of mounts that I've been looking for! :thumbsup:
Yes there is tons of stuff on there! I don't think the discount code works anymore though :(
maviczap
23-06-15, 04:43 PM
Yes there is tons of stuff on there! I don't think the discount code works anymore though :(
I'm not too bothered, as the bits I want aren't available for my Garmin Virb, and the prices aren't too bad.
whats the shipping time from ordering?
Did you have to pay any import duty or VAT?
Redmist
23-06-15, 04:47 PM
Shipping time can vary, but expect around a week or two at maximum.
I've not had to pay any extra duty or VAT on anything from them or from our Asian suppliers either for that matter.
MetalJonesy
23-06-15, 05:17 PM
will your rear case fit these motors?
http://www.goodluckbuy.com/dji-phantom-brushless-gimbal-camera-mount-w-motor-and-controller-for-gopro3-fpv-aerial-photography.html
I've just picked one up on ebay before even seeing your thread and 3D parts as I've just bought a Mobius cam
Redmist
23-06-15, 05:57 PM
will your rear case fit these motors?
http://www.goodluckbuy.com/dji-phantom-brushless-gimbal-camera-mount-w-motor-and-controller-for-gopro3-fpv-aerial-photography.html
I've just picked one up on ebay before even seeing your thread and 3D parts as I've just bought a Mobius cam
It won't be a straight forward fit I imagine, and you'll need to route the power cable a different way as our motors have a hollow shaft which it passes through.
But once you've bought the rest of the parts (As I think your suggesting) the price of a motor would not be much more.
Nobbylad
24-06-15, 06:13 PM
There is a comment in one of the Marc VDS videos on youtube where someone reccomends the use of "Dashware" to do overlays. But I've only ever used RaceChrono too.
Cheers fella. One more question, my understanding is to get the data required, you need to use an OBD tool to collect it, which the different overlay software can interpret and then overlay onto the vid. Is this the case and if so, what do you use? All the bluetooth OBD adapters I've looked at are OBDII, which plug straight into cars, however Suzuki use their SDS system which is a non-standard plug. I think it only uses 3 x pins, ground, positive and data...so potentially could make up a plug, however just wondered what you use(d)?
i'm using a RAM 1'' ball mount and arm. you might be onto something as i think the arm might be too long.
Redmist
24-06-15, 08:18 PM
Cheers fella. One more question, my understanding is to get the data required, you need to use an OBD tool to collect it, which the different overlay software can interpret and then overlay onto the vid. Is this the case and if so, what do you use? All the bluetooth OBD adapters I've looked at are OBDII, which plug straight into cars, however Suzuki use their SDS system which is a non-standard plug. I think it only uses 3 x pins, ground, positive and data...so potentially could make up a plug, however just wondered what you use(d)?
You've got me there, I only used a GPS file from the RaceChrono app which gave me track position and speed. RaceChronoAvi converted it into a video file.
If you want all the bells and whistles then the OBD would be required but I've not used one sorry.
Redmist
24-06-15, 08:19 PM
i'm using a RAM 1'' ball mount and arm. you might be onto something as i think the arm might be too long.
Yeah the arms really don't help either!
Nobbylad
24-06-15, 08:32 PM
You've got me there, I only used a GPS file from the RaceChrono app which gave me track position and speed. RaceChronoAvi converted it into a video file.
If you want all the bells and whistles then the OBD would be required but I've not used one sorry.
No probs, thanks for responding. Yeah...was looking for all the bells and whistles i.e. RPM, gear position, temperature etc etc.
Cheers
do you think a stabiliser like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Handheld-Video-Gimbal-Stabilizer-Steadicam-Curve-GoPro-Hero-Camcorder-4-3-3-/151617858697?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item234d20ec89 would work on a bike?
Redmist
26-06-15, 12:06 PM
do you think a stabiliser like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Handheld-Video-Gimbal-Stabilizer-Steadicam-Curve-GoPro-Hero-Camcorder-4-3-3-/151617858697?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item234d20ec89 would work on a bike?
To re-create the Gyrocam? Doubt it.
To aid stabilising a camera to remove wobble / shaking? - Maybe but I'd just go with a firmer mount and not worry!
MetalJonesy
26-06-15, 04:58 PM
Just got the parts today for the build as pictured earlier in the thread with the Mobius cam. Looking forward to trying it out!
MetalJonesy
26-06-15, 10:54 PM
Redmist, what do I need to do on the settings to stop the jumping of the motor? my cameras lighter than a GoPro
https://youtu.be/jEUWO2l8M3Q
Redmist
27-06-15, 09:22 PM
I'd say your problem is that the motors can't keep the camera base under control over the bumps, because the motors on the Gyrocam you have aren't designed to control a camera on a bike. They don't have sufficient torque.
But by all means try to help it out doing the following:
Firstly, don't mount it on the tail initially. Get it working in a more stable position (Top of the tank, you can also see "live" how the motor reacts which can help) and then when you know the control is decent, try it in other places.
Then lets talk about settings:
I'll assume you've got the GUI working and can connect to the board.
So firstly, save a profile of what you have now so you can always go back to it.
I also assume you're using the whole thing you received so you'll have two axis (two motors) in use so you can't just import our profile because we only use one.
However there are essentially two things you need to know and then play with:
1) Motor power - On the first setup page of the GUI software you'll see a number between 0 and 250 set for both motors. I'm guessing that currently it is set somewhere between 90 and 150. The higher it is, the "stronger" the motor will be BUT there will be a limit and you could blow up the board if you go too high. So I'd turn it up to 150 as a maximum and see how that goes. (This may increase any noise from the motors - see next point)
2) The PID settings - Often a mystery as to how these should be set BUT essentially these settings are only really needed if your assembly is very noisy, like humming or making grating noises. Or if you think the motor is not moving quick enough to match the movement of the bike.
Read up the correct procedure on how to set these or watch the many youtube vids. (Search "Alex Mos PID tuning")
HOWEVER - You may never get it working to your satisfaction, there is a reason why Mosci spent a whole heap of time designing and testing the Gyrocam we sell. It is fit for purpose which a lot of other solutions that people tried, including myself, just aren't!
MetalJonesy
28-06-15, 08:35 AM
Spot on, cheers! I'm away from the setup this weekend so will apply your advice this week! I'm just on the one axis with the gimbal (modified it to hiw the picture with the mobius looks earlier in the thread)
MetalJonesy
30-06-15, 10:25 AM
So, I put the voltage up to around 110 or 120 I think. I also added some weight to the underside of the camera (the Mobius is at least 50g lighter than the GoPro!). I also realised that I had incorrectly set up the axis on the IMU so with that correctly set up and calibrated (finally realised to do it whilst the motor was offline) it made a big difference! its always going back to the central position now which is great but I still get the jumpy behaviour. I think I will try it at a maximum of 140 and then I will call defeat on the motors as like you said, they just don't have enough torque to cope!
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