Tappy noise

[barnesy213]

Well basically I have a 2005 sv650s and just recently when starting from cold it has a tappy noise which Is loud ( or is to me ) then goes quiet once it's at 60 degrees or so. But the noise is still there and also say I keep it in a gear for longer and gets to around 5k the loud tappy noise comes back. I'm thinking he valve clearances need resetting. As it's the only logical explanation as the bike has only done just over 15k miles. What do you think. Thanks guys and girls

[Bibio]

first thing to do is check your oil level.

valve shims dont just start to tap unless you have rapidly wore the bucket down due to low oil levels.

at 15k your looking at getting near your first valve check but it very rare that they need adjustment at that mileage.

as long as the bike has had oil and filter changes every 3,500 miles and the oil level has never been past the low mark then all should be fine and i would look elsewhere like an TB sync and checking the spark plugs are secure. the spark plugs on the SV are just 'seated' with very little torque applied and do come loose. if you have let the oil level go past the low mark for any extended time then its not good news.

[barnesy213]

The oil level is good it's in between low and full but closer to full , the oil and filter was changed about 1k miles ago

[barnesy213]

Also the revs do fluctuate a little bit. But it's done that before this tapping noise started. It's hard to explain without a sound clip

[Markos_46]

Not the cam chain tensioner between clicks? On my old bike it sounded awful when it was in between clicks & done it I think roughly every 10k miles - a good thrashing helped it on its way & then was lovely & quiet until the next time.

[barnesy213]

heres a quick video of it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDebq1DqV7Q

[Corny Gizmo]

Sounds normal to me, mine does it but it goes once warm

[barnesy213]

even at 5k revs because thats when i can also hear it (as the exhaust is quite loud without the baffle )

[Kenzie]

Mine sounds like that as well. 08 K7. My bothers TL sounded ten times worse than that.

[Craig380]

Had a listen to the video and while I can hear the tapping faintly, I don't think it's anything to worry about.

My own K6 has done 9,000 miles with a full service with valve clearance check 1000 miles ago, and sounds roughly the same. I believe it's just the camchain ticking.

As said above, the camchain tensioner will not always take up the slack perfectly, and sometimes will allow the chain to be a little noisier than others as the tensioner blade moves and flexes slightly.

Sometimes my own bike has zero mechanical noise when idling at traffic lights etc, other times it will tick when idling - often doing both on the same ride.

[Toooldtodie]

even at 5k revs because thats when i can also hear it (as the exhaust is quite loud without the baffle )

Buy a louder exhaust!!
Or hum loudly... seriously though they are a weird beast these SVs as mine's tappety some days and not others. Could be the mood you're bike's in as to whether it wears its tap shoes or not.

[barnesy213]

so how is a cam chain rattle a good thing then because if it gets loose then expensive damage can be done and most likely will render the bike as scrap, does anyone know how much it would cost for what ever is wrong to be replaced thanks

[Bibio]

i have listened to the vid and i can say i hear nothing but the usual SV noises. try pulling the clutch in to see if it goes away or better still pop a vid up with the clutch pulled in that way we will get to hear if there is something wrong.

v-twins have a lot more mechanical noise the inline4's and if you think yours sounds not right try listening to a ducati with a dry clutch.. you will run screaming to the hills.

[barnesy213]

I'll get a video tomorrow with the clutch in and warmer up and give it a few revs. To me it does not sound right especially when it's only just started doing it

[barnesy213]

here's the next video i took also bare in mind that it was not doing that noise last week https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFww3hJ1vSg

[Bibio]

nope nowt wrong with that.

[barnesy213]

What I'm trying to say which no 1 seems to understand is why had it started doing that as it was not doing that the other weeks and it's sounds worse in person

[Bibio]

as has been said its more than likely due to the tensioner being between clicks. i dont hear any unusual noises that an SV makes. i have heard them rattle a lot worse than that. for peace of mind get the valve clearances checked if you like. the engines are pretty tough as long as the oil is kept topped up properly.

give the tensioners a little firm tap a few times with the handle end of a screwdriver as one might be a bit sticky.

[barnesy213]

Won't it knacker the tensioner if it's between clicks

[Bibio]

ermmm no. if its between clicks (auto tensioner) the chain and or guide is just getting slack enough to let the tensioner move up to the next pawl. tapping it might just be enough to move it.

[barnesy213]

doubt that will fix it but might aswell , just carnt do with a tappy bike kind of embarasing when someone pulls up next to you on a better bike ( ninja zx6r for example) and there's mine tappeting away to its self

[Craig380]

Had a listen to the new video and while I can hear the tapping noise, I still don't think it's anything serious to worry about.

One thing that might be worth checking is the tightness of the spark plugs. They can and do loosen a little in use as the tightening torque is low (8lb-ft / 11nm). I checked mine the other weekend (it had a major service just over 1000 miles ago before I collected it from the supplying dealer) and while I wasn't losing compression or getting any running problems, the plugs weren't much more than finger tight. I just snugged them back up. NGK recommend 1/12th of a turn (30 degrees) from finger tight, for tightening previously-used plugs.

All you need to do to get to the front plug is remove the little plastic flap under the bottom fork yoke (1x 10mm bolt), remove the bolt holding the radiator to the front cylinder head, and disconnect the horn connector. You can then push the radiator forward to pull off the plug cap. The rear plug is a doddle.