650s '00 Rear brake caliper refurbishment

[MrKarl]

Hello!

I haven't been on this site for a while but it helped me greatly last time I was, as it was actually where I found my SV too.

Anyway I changed my brake pads over the weekend and after a fight with the rear caliper I realised that one side is completely seized. Despite the people who do my tyres and MOT telling me that they cleaned it before. For the moment it works but I'd like to fix it as having a jammy rear brake isn't ideal.

I looked on the forums about caliper refurbishment and I saw a post by Tamsen Cooper who put up videos about a caliper refurbishment, which would be an option to get it moving fluently again.

I was wondering what people would recommend, should I attempt to clean the caliper? (As I am a novice but I have to learn somehow). I looked at a seal kit from powerhouse who have a good reputation and it's about £20. Also I need a retaining pin which are about £5 as mine snapped. However if the piston has been munched by rust then they're about £20 each too.

But a refurbished exchange caliper is £62 from the same company which would give a like new caliper in exchange.

If anyone has a spare rear caliper that they no longer require I would be interested too if it is the right price, as my motorcycle is my only mode of transport so if I **** up then at least I'd have a reserve to use!

Thanks for reading!

[Nutsinatin]

I would buy a second hand rear caliper, refurb that as necessary, then fit it to the bike. Then I would refurb the original caliper as a spare to swap in when needed. However if it is more urgent I would go for the exchange caliper to see you through, then get a spare to refurb when time is less pressing.I got my spares for my front calipers from Wemoto but the slide rubbers had to come from Suzuki, don't forget red rubber grease (or silicone if you're feeling flush) for the rubber parts. My bike is my only mode of transport too and I wouldn't take the risk of removing the caliper to find it's buggered without a spare waiting.

[Tamsen Cooper]

I got the seal kit from power house, so can recommend them. I loved doing the work myself, but I can see the appeal of getting a refurb part, the advantage of that way is that you could see how it should look and keep it to that standard in the future. Having spare parts when doing this type of work is definitely a good idea!

[MrKarl]

Thank-you for the replies! I am looking about for a second hand caliper see if there is any about going for cheap but can't spend too much because as ever my bike decides that everything should go wrong at once and I need new tyres.

Also I messaged my dad who was a motor mechanic for 40 years so he said he's done a lot of caliper fixing so should be less likely to mess it up first go if I decided to try clean it through all myself!

[Bibio]

the curvy callipers are a nightmare. my advice is dont mess about and for £62 a refurb sounds just the ticket (if that includes seals and pistons).

what you have to remember about the curvy/pointy rear calliper is that the pistons get rusty and the seal recesses (not so much pointy) get furred up (this is the cause of the callipers seizing) add to that the curvy pad pins weld themselves to the inside of the blind holes which results in you having to drill them out.

do you have the tools to remove the pistons without damaging them (more then likley rusted up anyway so they would go in the bin)?
do you have a dremmel to clean the recesses properly?
do you have red rubber grease or silicone grease to put the seals back in?
do you have a drill and bit, a pin punch and hammer to remove seized the pins?

so for £62 you get a nice refurb calliper that the pistons alone can cost £40+.

the ones on ebay are more than likely just as bad as the one you already have as its a known problem.

ooohhh and no matter what anybody tells you DONT put copper grease on the back of the pads.. copper grease eats/swells piston seals.

thats my advice take it or leave it.

[maviczap]

the curvy callipers are a nightmare. my advice is dont mess about and for £62 a refurb sounds just the ticket (if that includes seals and pistons).

what you have to remember about the curvy/pointy rear calliper is that the pistons get rusty and the seal recesses (not so much pointy) get furred up (this is the cause of the callipers seizing) add to that the curvy pad pins weld themselves to the inside of the blind holes which results in you having to drill them out.

do you have the tools to remove the pistons without damaging them (more then likley rusted up anyway so they would go in the bin)?
do you have a dremmel to clean the recesses properly?
do you have red rubber grease or silicone grease to put the seals back in?
do you have a drill and bit, a pin punch and hammer to remove seized the pins?

so for £62 you get a nice refurb calliper that the pistons alone can cost £40+.

the ones on ebay are more than likely just as bad as the one you already have as its a known problem.

ooohhh and no matter what anybody tells you DONT put copper grease on the back of the pads.. copper grease eats/swells piston seals.

that's my advice take it or leave it.

It sums it up nicely, and I'd add that splitting the caliper to get to the pistons is also a nightmare, as Mr Suzuki didn't use any grease or anti seize on the caliper bolts. I've trashed a caliper trying to loosen the bolts

Go for the refurb, buy some stainless steel pad pins & clips, and use some anti seize on the pin tips where it goes into the caliper

[andrewsmith]

It sums it up nicely, and I'd add that splitting the caliper to get to the pistons is also a nightmare, as Mr Suzuki didn't use any grease or anti seize on the caliper bolts. I've trashed a caliper trying to loosen the bolts

Go for the refurb, buy some stainless steel pad pins & clips, and use some anti seize on the pin tips where it goes into the caliper
I agree with this
I used to refurbish rears and the last 3 I did weren't worth the effort

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