Front suspension assembly slightly corroded

[seanmhc]

I'll be getting my new bike delivered either this week or next, everything seemed pretty spot on apart from an issue that was brought up during it's MOT last week - Front suspension assembly slightly corroded.

From what I've read I believe this is a common issue with the SV?

I'd like to get this sorted asap, even though I understand it's safe to ride I don't want it to eat away at the front forks till I have to replace them if there's anything I can do about it.

Could anyone enlighten me on how I should go about tackling this problem? I'm very much a novice in terms of mechanics, but I plan on doing everything myself learning as I go.

I'll try attach a picture to this message to give you all an idea of what I'm looking at

Thanks, Sean

[Corny Gizmo]

Ignore me, im blind

[seanmhc]

Ignore me, im blind
In fairness, it's not the best picture but it's all I have until the bike gets here and I can see the real damage. I did budget in a complete new set if worse comes to worse before you ask! Just thought I'd see if I could price up a few bits and bobs if I can fix it without forking out as much.

[tom_e]

It's only a problem if the rust is on the chroming of the stanchions where the seals travel up and down, at which point you ideally want a new set or to get the old set re chromed as never mind how much you try and tidy them up it will come back eventually and knacker your seals.
Anywhere else is just cosmetic.

[carelesschucca]

As Tom says if its only on the part we can see its fine autosol is your friend.

[Red Herring]

As Tom says it only becomes a safety/maintenance issue when the leg rusts on the part that is swept by the seals (i.e.: below the lower triple clamp). This part generally only rusts if the bike is laid up as regular use keeps it well oiled, however it is also susceptible to stone chips that can damage the chrome which in turn can then nick a seal.

Have a good look at the leg and see if there is any rust/damage in the swept area. If there is they you do need to get it sorted but as a short term fix you can try rubbing it down with a very fine piece of emery paper before it damages the seal and leads to a leak.

SV forks are quite expensive for what they are because they're pretty popular with the Minitwin racers. Worth looking after or getting repaired if not to bad.

[seanmhc]

I fear that as it was an advisory on the MOT that it could be creeping down to the seals but not quite there yet, surely if it was on any part where the forks travelled beyond the seal it would have failed?

I believe the bike hasn't had the regular usage to prevent that due to it's extremely low mileage (just over 4k) and the fact it's coming up to 10 years old, so I'm going to assume the worst.

But let's hope it's just cosmetic and I can buff it out with Autosol. Any idea what I'd be looking at to get them re-chromed if it wasn't the case?

[Red Herring]

You can get legs re chromed for around £150 a pair providing you strip and rebuilt them. Add about another £100 if you want them to do that for you. What area are you in, may be some help available on here?

[Adam Ef]

I had similar on my 125 and replaced the fork stanchions / tubes. Even for a cheap 125 it was over £100 on parts, plus fitting, which included fork service / oil and new seals. The pitting on mine was eating through seals quick enough that it made sense to spend getting it done properly rather than repeated seal changes adding up in cost and being hassle.

Someone did tell me some sort of work around to do with nail varnish and wet and dry but I didn't fancy it really as it still involved taking everything apart. I just figured I'd get it done properly.

Mine was an MOT advisory too and would have been a fail a few weeks later when forks started losing oil.. dodgy if it's above a brake disc / pads.

[tom_e]

I had similar on my 125 and replaced the fork stanchions / tubes. Even for a cheap 125 it was over £100 on parts, plus fitting, which included fork service / oil and new seals. The pitting on mine was eating through seals quick enough that it made sense to spend getting it done properly rather than repeated seal changes adding up in cost and being hassle.

Someone did tell me some sort of work around to do with nail varnish and wet and dry but I didn't fancy it really as it still involved taking everything apart. I just figured I'd get it done properly.

Mine was an MOT advisory too and would have been a fail a few weeks later when forks started losing oil.. dodgy if it's above a brake disc / pads.

Apparently you can use super glue to fill the pits then sand it back, I imagine nail varnish would be similar but it just seems like a temporary measure to me.

[seanmhc]

I'm located in West Yorkshire, about 20 mins out of Leeds if you're on a bike.

Should be getting the bike on Thursday provided everything goes smoothly so I'll be able to see what's next from there.

Would any recommend/advise against buying a pair of 2nd hand ones from eBay, providing worst case scenario?

I'm really not sure about the idea of nail varnish or superglue on anything that isn't cosmetic, haha.

[maviczap]

Nail varnish, super glue or araldite are all short term bodges.

If the rust spots don't extend to where the seal passes over, then you should be fine.

2nd hand ones are fine, so long as they are straight and not damaged or rusty.

You can also get pattern ones for £112

http://www.brooksuspension.co.uk/suzuki-sv650-k1-k6-fork-inner-tube-or-stanchion-01-06.html?fee=5&fep=3994&gclid=CjwKEAiAo7C2BRDgqODGq5r38DsSJAAv7dTPA-zRS04VQX06asGNBP17L5Im-HQ-F1f5f6sefYkcqBoCxVfw_wcB

Wemoto do them also.

Don't fork out for them unless absolutely necessary :smt098