2000 Sv650s Starting issue

[supersimoncelli]

Checked the electrical system as it tells you how to do in the Service Manual.
The book says if you have a voltage over the starter relay terminals and it still doesn't start then you have a dodgy relay. However I have had 2 different relays in the bike and I know for sure 1 of them if fine as it starts a friends Sv no problems. I have no idea where to check next. Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers in advance........

[yorkie_chris]

Obvious question, you know it only controls cranking?

Clutch switch is common problem that stops it cranking over.

[supersimoncelli]

checked the clutch Switch and I don't think that's my problem I will have a second look at it just to be sure tho.

[embee]

A bit more info required. What does it do, what doesn't it do, how did the problem come about, do lights work etc ?
As much detail as you can is useful.

[supersimoncelli]

I get a neutral light and oil light when ignition is switched on I pull the clutch in and press the starter buttin and nothing happens. no noises or anything like that. all lights work as they should when the ignition is on horn works aswell. the bike does turn over if you bridge the starter relay however I ruled out that being the issue as I replaced It with one from a working bike and the bike still wouldn't start.

[yorkie_chris]

When you bridge starter, does it start, or just turn over?

[supersimoncelli]

I had the tank off so it only turned over but the bike was running perfectly yesterday without problems so I don't see why it wouldn't run if the tank was re-attatched

[Tdi90]

Clutch switch or side stand switch, dodgey kill switch?

[supersimoncelli]

side stand switch is bypassed and the clutch switch is fine checked the kill switch before but I couldn't see a problem with it

[embee]

It's sounding like possibly the starter push button either isn't getting a supply or the switch isn't contacting or the signal isn't getting from the push button down to the relay.


Ideally work from the supply side forwards, confirm the push button has a supply, then follow it through. Could be broken wires, faulty connectors etc ............. or something else.


Don't dismiss anything even when you've checked it, I've had plenty of folk say they've checked everything but it doesn't work. Either it works or they haven't checked everything.

[supersimoncelli]

Definitely not the Starter Button or the kill switch as I just swapped them for a working one and again there was nothing. I'm at a total loss with the bike now. I cant see how it wont start as once the starter relay is bridged the engine cranks over. cant see what else I could do with the bike except another wiring loom and try that but that's out of my comfort zone.

[Corny Gizmo]

swapped what? the switchgear?

If so there might be an issue further down into the loom, there is a lot more to check matey

[supersimoncelli]

yea I swapped the switch gear out for one the definitely works. As I said this is probably beyond me now. as I have looked at the wiring diagrams and they make no sense to me at all.

[yorkie_chris]

Well replacing the full loom is a daft option.

Get an indicator bulb with 2 wires on it and I will walk you through where to test

[yorkie_chris]

Right here's one way to troubleshoot the curvy wiring


There are two circuits you need to worry about, one is the "run" circuit the other is the "start" circuit, the first feeds the second.


So start from first principles. Get yourself an indicator bulb and two wires. Put one wire to earth.

Switch on the ignition. Gearbox neutral.

Check the back of the fuse box, an orange wire with yellow tracer should light the bulb.

Now check the back of the lockout relay, the orange wire with black tracer should light the bulb.*


This feed then goes to the kill switch. The easiest way to check this is to put your test light on the coil wires, this main switched "engine run" circuit is orange with white tracer. Check it at the front and rear coils and at the ECU connector.



Next is the "start" circuit, it splits off the "run" circuit after the kill switch. Put your test light on the yellow w/black wire coming out of the right hand switchgear. This should have fire when the button is pushed.

Then it goes to the clutch switch, yellow w/black into it, then yellow w/green out of it. **

If you still got current coming out of the clutch switch, then try it down at the starter relay ... but that's a PITA because the connector there has rubber boots on it.



*
Personally, I cut and solder the wires at this point, orange-yellow and orange-black.... this gets rid of all the sidestand/neutral bollox.

**
I cut and solder the wires for the clutch switch together on the bike side to get rid of the whole system. It's more reliable than a paperclip in the connector!

[Red Herring]

Hi mate, you say the tank is off. Is it off as a result of this problem or were you doing something else to the bike when this fault occurred?

[Sid Squid]

Read me for detailed starter circuit checks. (http://forums.sv650.org/showpost.php?p=2941000&postcount=15)