View Full Version : raleigh popular?
Today I've been helping clear out my great uncles old cottage which is a story in itself. They are 89 and 90 and due to ill health have had to move out leaving behind many vintage items including tractors and best of all motorbikes.
One of them is a Norton jubilee and one other is a 1920s Raleigh that I think is a popular. Will try and put up some pics if anyone can confirm.
Also I want to get it running to attend the Kington vintage rally but it's not at all conventional. It is fully complete but I'm not sure of the procedure to get it running. I imagine it will require a good flush through with fuel and carb cleaning, would it even have run on petrol?
Craig380
12-03-16, 07:34 PM
It will have used petrol but 1920s fuel wasn't high-octane or anything. I suspect the carb will be WELL gummed up but you never know ...
carelesschucca
12-03-16, 07:37 PM
Hmm, how long has it been sitting? You really don't want to even start it if things are tight in the engine.
Can't seem to upload from my phone? I will ask Ray my great uncle when he last ran it. He restored it so will know all about it but at 90 it may take a while to get ant sense out of him. What should I do to set about preparing it to run?
Red Herring
12-03-16, 08:32 PM
Take the plug out and check if the engine at least turns over. If it does that's great. Have a look in the fuel tank. Does the inside look nice and shiny clean or is it full of rust? If rusty you might have bit of a job on, hopefully it looks OK. If so put a little petrol in.
Take the hose off that goes from the fuel tap to the carb, put a bowl under it and turn on the tap. Does the fuel come out freely and does it look clean. If not possibly a blocked or dirty filter inside tank which will need cleaning. If the fuel looks dirty don't go any further. Letting dirty fuel into the carb will just create lots of work for you.
If all OK so far put the hose back on the carb and turn the fuel on. Wait a moment, has fuel started leaking out of the carb anywhere that might indicate a stuck float/valve. If it does then try just tapping the side of the carb.
Take the air cleaner off and remove the mouse nest, or anything similar living in there. Don't bother putting it back on yet.
Has it got any oil in it? There is a school of thought that says put some fresh oil in it now. I'm a bit of a cheapskate and I always want to know if it's at least going to run before spending good money on expensive oil suitable for such motors (even my 1960 Matchless doesn't run on Halfords rubbish).
Check it has air in the tyres. Has it got a battery, I suspect not. What you want to do now is spin the engine over a bit before even trying to start it. The easiest way to do this is to get your mate to kick it over repeatedly while you go and have a coffee, alternatively, and my preferred way because I haven't any mates, is to put it in a gear, not the lowest please, and push it around. This not only spins the engine but gets some oil moving around the gearbox etc as well. This is also a good time to find out if the engine has a de-compressor.
If you're not sure what switch does what with regard to ignition then before you put the plug in reattach the HT lead and kick the engine whilst fiddling with the switches until you get a spark. If you can't get a spark then you need to before going any further. Hopefully you will and you can put the plug in.
Now suss out how the choke works. Should be easy with the air filter off as you can see what slides where. Now try and start it....... If it won't fire after lots of effort then you can try spraying Easystart or similar into the carb to so if it's a fuel or ignition issue. If it turns out to be fuel then has been suggested you're going to have to strip the carb, but on something like this that isn't going to be hard.
One last tip. If you're going to try bump starting it make sure you know how to kill the engine, vintage brakes combined with a sticky clutch that won't release make an interesting combination...... as I once found out! Good luck, love to see some pictures.
nutzboutbikes
12-03-16, 08:49 PM
You will probably need to use a lead additive to protect the valves.
Red Herring
12-03-16, 09:44 PM
Actually on something of 1920 vintage he may not as I think that was before lead was added to fuel. He certainly won't need it to start it initially. If it fires up, doesn't make any horrendous rattles or knocks and everything seems to work as it should then change all the fluids, fill it with fresh fuel and go ride it (perhaps get some insurance, doesn't need an MOT and Zero rate VEL).
littleoldman2
12-03-16, 10:20 PM
That's lovely. Like the front brake.
Red Herring
12-03-16, 10:37 PM
I think that was the GT model that came with ABS and traction control.........
Seriously that looks in really good condition, whatever you do don't go cleaning it up or painting anything without having it properly valued first. Sometimes the more original they are the better.
Yeah it's about as effective as holding a banana against the tyre. Interestingly my mother is claiming it as hers- yes this is the very same woman who tried everything to stop me her 36 year old son from doing his bike license.
It looks to have had a paint job to me. I seem to remember my great uncle telling me he'd nickel plated a lot of the metalwork.
The Case orchard tractor he has is in even better condition, it's one of only 5 in the country apparently
It has a few priming and choke levers that I need to look at to try and work out what does what.
Red Herring
12-03-16, 10:54 PM
Have a watch of this.... it's complicated!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_oolPqNCRs
littleoldman2
12-03-16, 11:07 PM
Just watched all three videos, very interesting, a little treasure.
Ah thanks, that is exactly the same beast. So it continually burns oil. I'm not surprised that throttle system didnt take off.
What grade oil do you think I should be putting in the oil reservoir or as its just burning it off is it not too critical just to get it running.
Fen Tiger
13-03-16, 01:29 PM
That looks like a great machine which will be a lot of fun. I haven't watched the videos yet but looking forward to it. I should think there will be some relevant information from an Owner's Club or Vintage motorcycle club. Re oil grade, if you don't have any literature with it I see that some is available from this seller,
http://www.british-motorcycle-parts.com/Raleigh_motorcycle_manuals.htm
I should think it runs a monograde oil which has to be hand pumped via the sight glass. Viscosity depending on the ambient temperature. Take particular attention to the condition of the tyres and tubes before riding on the road.
What a great machine.
Fabulous. That's an oiler on the side of the tank, make sure you fully understand how it works before trying to run it at all, could risk destroying a perfectly good engine otherwise. The tank has 2 filler caps, that's another clue. Edit - sorry, missed the second page of posts, it's already been covered.
Lovely example.
Bit of an update, it's coming to live with me! The petrol tank has some kind of black coating in it which has peeled to reveal rust. What can I do to halt this? Going to get it to my place next week and wash all the dust and grime off it and Acf50 it.
Has anyone any rough ideas what this might be worth in an OK condition? Seen a very good one for sale at £7995
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