Suburban Machinery Type 2 bar replacement

[sandman817]

Hey guys, brand new to this forum and this is my first post. I'll start off with my bike, I have a 2005 Sv650 and these are the list of changes that the bike had done to it.
- Ricor Intiminators
- Kawasaki 636 rear shock
- GSXR 1000 headlight
- Supertrapp exhaust
- Black powder coated rearsets, radiator guards, and passenger pegs
- Stomptech tank pads
- Suburban Machinery Type 2 handlebars
- Bar mounted Sideview mirrors
- Corbin seat
-Stainless steel brake lines
-Frame sliders installed

On to my question. SO I have realized that the right side of my bars are just slightly tweaked and I would like to replace my current handlebars with a set of Pro-Taper bars. Can somebody point me into the right direction, as far as which bars I should be looking to purchase. I do like the way the type 2s felt while riding. So if I could get something that would be close to position, that would be great. I also attached a picture of my handlebars setup Thanks!

[Bibio]

wee call those Ace Bars here in the UK and there are lots and lots of different types and angles to choose from. like you i used to like the feel of them when i was a younger but now need to sit upright.

the problem you will find trying to replace your ace bars bars with 'pro taper' is that the pro taper are fatbar centres so wont fit your current risers. my advice is either get another sat of ace bars or get rental superbike bars.

[sandman817]

Does protaper make something with the same center diameter and similar riding position as the type 2s?

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[Bibio]

haven't a clue you will have to find that out for yourself.

[sandman817]

I was checking out a couple different bars online today and it looks like I am going to have to drill some holes in them regaurdless of which ones I end up purchasing....unless I buy the Type 2s again.

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[Bibio]

what holes would they be?

[sandman817]

From what I've been reading, people have been talking about drilling holes for the turn signal controls. I forgot to look yesterday. But are all the parts mounted on the bars just clamp on style?

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[Bibio]

they are correct, you need to drill out the tabs holes for the switchgear. or do what most people do and bodge it by sanding down the tabs then wrapping the bar in insulating tape. unless its the OEM bars you are going to have to drill the holes on EVERY other bars you get. in reality is easy peasy.

[sandman817]

So it's just drilling out one hole for the turn signal switch? No need to drill out anything on the throttle/kill switch side?

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[maviczap]

No both sets of switch gear have a locating pip, which stops the switch gear rotating on the bar, so for the throttle side its important.

As Bib says its easy to drill the bar for this locating pip, bodgers do it the other way

[sandman817]

How do you know exactly where it needs to be drilled? Is there an easy way to make a mark where it's needed and then drill?

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[maviczap]

At the moment I can't remember how I did mine, but most of it is measuring. I got the left hand one spot on, the throttle side was a couple of mm out, but hasn't affected its function.

Easiest way would be to get a pair of OEM bars and measure the distance from the end. Rotational position would be a bit of estimation, but not tricky

[SV_archie99]

I measured the existing holes from the end of my clip ons for my recent bar conversion.
Masking tape on the new bars and mark with a pencil.
Re-measure twice, centre punch the hole position and away you go with a nice sharp drill bit.

[sandman817]

Alright cool, haven't decided if I want to just get another set of SM type 2s or switch it up

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[Bibio]

easy way:
get new bars, attach switchgear to new bars, mark roughly where the pips of the switchgear will land, remove switchgear and wrap insulating tape round that area. put switchgear back on an slightly tighten in position so as to make a mark on the insulating tape. remove switchgear and drill holes where marks are on tape (drill the hole 1-2mm larger than the pips depending on what drill bit you have handy. remove tape and fit switchgear properly. job done.... sounds a long drawn out process but in reality should take 15mins.