Project: 500GP

[squirrel_hunter]

Time for the new project.

After completing my TZR250 (http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=189543) build I started thinking about what to do next and set about selecting a bike. In all honesty I'd been looking out for one of these bikes for some time but the only ones that were around were a little over priced. Eventually though an unregistered one came up on eBay at a slightly more reasonable price and I decided to take a gamble on it.

The original plan was to restore it to standard but with a couple of modifications like the TZR as a NOS tail unit was included in the deal but the longer I looked at it the more I wanted to do something different this time. My inspiration came in the form of "The Unrideables (http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=198077)".

Everyone knows that the best top level bike racing was the two stroke 500 Grand Prix era and as the bike is from the 80's then this is ideal. Looking around at the results of others who have taken on a project like this there are some great bikes out there, but they all have a flaw. You see most of the GP replicas are based on a 250cc frame with a 500cc engine in, and without taking away from what is accomplished they are all starting with the wrong base machine.

So I've decided to start with what was originally marketed as the road going version of the championship winning YZR500 with a plan to take what Yamaha gave me and make it more race, more prototype, more Grand Prix...

Thus may I present the 1989 Yamaha YSR50:

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1149_zps141ez3ln.jpg

And yes renting a Transit to pick it up in might have been a little on the excessive side.

[andrewsmith]

Subscribed now!!!!

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[carelesschucca]

LOL! You are slightly mad, I love it. I didn't even know these things existed. Do you even fit on it?

[maviczap]

Yay watching with interest from now on

[sl0th86]

My kinda thread!!!


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[Blapper]

Oh yeah...

[squirrel_hunter]

LOL! You are slightly mad, I love it.

I object to the word "slightly".

Do you even fit on it?

Yes, but I don't plan to do any touring on it.

[squirrel_hunter]

I thought buying the bike was a bit of a gamble as it was unregistered. I don't believe that the YSR ever came officially to these shores and though I've nothing against imports (my NC23 was a grey) I'd never gone through the process myself.

To make matters worse the bike wasn't on the NOVA system which is a prerequisite to getting a number plate, the reason being the bike came here 10 years ago. It was imported, sold and nothing happened to it for about 8 years until it changed hands to the previous owner who intended to do something with it but 2 years later put it up on eBay and that's how it made it to me.

Thankfully I did have some paperwork including the CE389 (forerunner to the NOVA system). I sent the DVLA the CE389, a copy of the receipt, a copy of the VJMC dating certificate that came with the bike, a couple of pictures of the machine, and a covering letter explaining the situation. About 2 weeks later a letter arrived back from HMRC stating that I should only submit the CE389 with a completed NOVA application form. Luckily though they also sent me a NOVA form.

I filled in the form sent it back and two weeks later a letter arrived stating that "HMRC have reviewed your vehicle notification and are satisfied that no VAT is due". They also sent a Notification Reference Number, and the note that I can now apply to the DVLA to register it. Much relieved with no VAT to pay for the import plus it now being on the NOVA system technically means that all that would be required would be an MOT.

The thought did cross my mind, but no, this is a 500GP project...

For reference and to give it some scale here it is next to a bike that we might be familiar with:

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1484_zpsy81rfisk.jpg

[Blapper]

Holy cow, that's tiny!

[PyroUK]

Now I get the transit being excessive [emoji23][emoji23]


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[BanannaMan]

Should make knee dragging breeze!

[sl0th86]

Omg i didnt realise it was that small! Looks like a mini moto next to the SV hahaha so awesome


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[shiftin_gear98]

You should change the name of this thread to Grom II.

[squirrel_hunter]

The bike has been sat in the garage for nearly 12 months before I started work on it as I've been collecting parts (still have some to get), but its made it mark. Firstly the carb leaked as the float stuck and the fuel tap was on, that was an easy fix. The oil leak on the other hand, well it wasn't just oil, it was like an oil and petrol mix, but odd. I didn't really track the leak down it was coming from the engine on the left I think near the front I suspect a seal of some sort but with the lower still on I just stuck a tub under it.

Anyway time for a tour of the bike.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1492_zpscsnlwkyd.jpg

The dash has a simple speedo and integrated lights on the left and a rev counter on the right. Trouble is that rev counter shouldn't be there. The YSR80 had a rev counter the 50 doesn't. The 50 engine and the 80 engine share a lot of the parts and is the same base engine. This base engine is also used in a number of other models including the RX and DT series as I understand it. And this bike had a RX50 engine fitted to it at one point. However the previous owner swapped that out back for the YSR engine that came with the bike originally. The rev counter will go.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1488_zpsszzbwn8q.jpg

From a distance the bike doesn't look to bad, but the paint has faded with time. There are chips on the tank but no dents and the nut pad is missing. The foot pegs are not original and they don't match.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1495_zpssrcajmwf.jpg

The lower fairing is falling apart and that upper mount doesn't look quite right. The engine has been painted gold, but its been affected by the petrol leak. The frame has also been sprayed silver at some point, and not very well. There is overspray on bolts, the loom, and the shock so it wasn't stripped before the rattle can came out.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1489_zpsrw7vtwuq.jpg

Other than that there is the usual signs of wear and age. The ignition and petrol cap keys are different, and there is no kill switch on the right. The fork cap bolts have been attacked by the wrong size socket, but the brakes still work, the engine did run, and the gears were selectable.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1486_zpsn9haf7vc.jpg

Time to take it apart.

[squirrel_hunter]

The first step of any strip down is the removal of the plastics. The rear came of easy one bolt at the front and two at the rear, this revealed the battery tray and massive 6 volt battery.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1499_zpsmwynwita.jpg

With the seat unit off the tank was next. This showed me the lack of an airbox but a non-standard filter. It felt a bit loose, not the best quality. Also on display was more evidence of over spray and insulating tape holding the loom to the frame on the right.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1500_zpsv1sqywxf.jpg

The lower fairing didn't fight me but it did give up being a fairing, parts of it disintegrated around the mounting points. Not a huge problem as a spare lower was in the deal, but a shame none the less.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1516_zps3gwrvjy7.jpg

More bad news was found on inspection of the fuel filter. That crud implies there is a bit of rust in the tank. This may be a problem, but I'm working on an idea.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1520_zpsgef9ytbx.jpg

However all is not bad news as I noticed this little red box plumbed in. It feeds off of the alternator and intersects to the CDI. Its a Kitaco Rev Booster, and if I'm honest I'm not sure what it does. I suspect it itercepts a signal from the alternator and kills it off via a resistor to fool the CDI into thinking the engine is not reving as high as it is giving a bit more power. But if anyone knows different please speak up.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1504_zpsqjyycqzd.jpg

But good news only proceeds bad in the shape of the left fairing lower upper mount. I'm fairly sure that is not factory welding in play.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1507_zps4wyuu0od.jpg

And finally the front fairing surprised me as the headlight is mounted directly to the fairing and not the subframe. But after unbolting it only a plug was keeping the headlight on the bike with its gold painted frame.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1509_zpsxywng8nn.jpg

[squirrel_hunter]

Now I have a naked bike in front of me I can begin to remove the engine.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1513_zpszxrf4lz8.jpg

And the first step here is the exhaust. Trouble is this one has a funny nut as standard that screws it onto the head.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1517_zpsjww1bzls.jpg

So out come the C-Spanners. Interestingly the only one that fitted was the Yamaha OEM part that I ended up buying for the steering bearings on the TZR. When I bought that I thought I'd never be using it on any other bike let alone not even steering bearings. I like tools.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1518_zpsrwrrxv8t.jpg

Onto the engine and the clutch cover. First it is the gear shift to remove.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1522_zpsb8erhsah.jpg

Before the cover can be unbolted and the clutch cover cable disconnected.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1523_zpsx15j7kdt.jpg

The oil pump was next. Open up the cover and disconnect the cable and pipes in and out. There was oil in the tank so that was drained into a tub via my hand and workbench.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1527_zps7j4q14ka.jpg

Next was the carb. Revealing the intake and the reed valves along with the boost bottle. I first encountered the boost bottle on my TZR125 (but that's for another day), no idea how it works, or why its not on the 250 so if anyone knows I'd very much like to understand.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1529_zpsjpndaroe.jpg

And finally the front sprocket nut. Or to be precise the front sprocket circlip. I'm impressed that a circlip can handle all the power being put out...

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1533_zpsoym4rkp5.jpg

[squirrel_hunter]

And I almost forgot; the oil leak, I think I have found where it is coming from. The only candidate is what appears to be a drain hole from the alternator cover.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1526_zpslfahj0i4.jpg

But this isn't an oiled cover, it should be dry behind the cover as behind the cover is just the crank cases. The only output from the crank case is the crank itself with the alternator on it. And using my experience from the TZR this is sealed into the crankshaft and separated from the engines transmission oil. I am concerned.

[dirtydog]

Nice project, got to love a gag bike!

[NedSVS]

Another great project thread SH - your patience to log it all amazes me. The boost bottle works as follows: when the reed valve shuts the intake charge still has momentum and it travels up the tube to the boost bottle and when the reed valve opens again it travels back giving a small boost. The revs it works best at are probably dependent on the length and diameter of the tube and the volume of the bottle.

[sl0th86]

Awesome little bike loving the thread so far! [emoji106]


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[BigFootIsBlurry]

Subscribed. Interesting little thing.

[squirrel_hunter]

The boost bottle works as follows: when the reed valve shuts the intake charge still has momentum and it travels up the tube to the boost bottle and when the reed valve opens again it travels back giving a small boost. The revs it works best at are probably dependent on the length and diameter of the tube and the volume of the bottle.

Thanks for the explanation. But why doesn't my 250 have one (or two), it does have a balance pipe between the inlets on each cylinder, does that do the same job?

[NedSVS]

Thanks for the explanation. But why doesn't my 250 have one (or two), it does have a balance pipe between the inlets on each cylinder, does that do the same job?

On your 250, when the reed valve on one cylinder closes the other cylinders reed is open, so the intake charge travels down the tube to the cylinder with the open reed - so no need for a boost bottle. It works best at low to midrange giving a small increase in power and torque.

[squirrel_hunter]

Awesome, thanks for that!

[squirrel_hunter]

One of the things I would like to do with this project is to apply some of the tricks that I have learned from the 250 build as well as working on SV's and others over the years. One of those things is to strip some of the heavy parts out of the engine while it is still in the frame as its not going to move around to much.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1534_zpscexnof38.jpg

So with that in mind the first thing to remove is the alternator rotor. I locked the crank by slipping a 2p between the clutch and the primary drive once I removed the clutch cover. This enabled me to remove the nut.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1536_zpspgpyxls5.jpg

However to pull the rotor off the crank I didn't know if I would have the tool as there is little information on line around for what I would need. Yambits that I used for a fair amount of parts for the 250 don't list the YSR, however I used their puller for the 250 so with that part number I searched their store and found that lots of bikes have that puller listed. Turns out Yamaha thought about these things and the puller I already had was the correct size.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1537_zpsv3ghwawu.jpg

So the rotor came off very easy.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1538_zpslikbdj4y.jpg

Now moving on to the clutch side taking the pressure plate off was was easy revealing 2 friction plates, 2 plain plates, and some rubber dampers. But then I hit an issue; I couldn't remove the primary drive nut. The 2p I used to lock the crank is looking very second hand now, the ratchet couldn't move the nut, the small breaker bar couldn't move the nut, the 2' breaker bar only put the 2p through the gears, and the impact gun only worked to fire the 2p out of the engine along with the kickstart mechanism. Time for plan E.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1541_zpslbtch8f2.jpg

First, remove the head and then the barrel. This was straight forward, but one nut was rusted onto the stud. A quick check on Fowlers reveals that its no longer available from Yamaha so that will need to be looked at later. And there wasn't a base gasket on the barrel, odd.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1542_zpspawqcnd7.jpg

So with the barrel off I could remove the piston allowing me to do something I wouldn't recommend as a method of locking a crank as there is a risk you can damage parts. But using two spanners to provide a flat surface and an extension bar through the small end I rotated the crank until it locked and this was enough to the take the nut off with no damage showing to the cases

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1545_zps78jlbvug.jpg

Now while doing my pre-removal check to ensure nothing unexpected is still attached to the engine I took a closer look at the crank seal on the left hand side revealing a leak. I think I've found the source of where the oil has been dripping from.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1548_zpsuajkind5.jpg

Finally using my scissor lift I removed the engine from the frame.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1550_zpseaeyedoa.jpg

[squirrel_hunter]

With the engine out of the frame it made its way to the work bench.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1549_zps18dzorpp.jpg

Splitting the cases is a simple case of removing the screws on the left hand side and then lifting the case half off. However a point of reference don't try and lift the left side off the right. This makes perfect sense as the bolts are on the left, however all that will happen is you will spend a good 30 minutes occasionally getting a little gap between the halves only to be increasingly frustrated.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1553_zpsi33uoln6.jpg

But if you read the shop manual properly eventually you flip the engine over and quickly remove the right hand side from the left.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1558_zpsmrz1dlrc.jpg

The gear box shafts, drum, and selector forks simply lifted out. The crank was a little more challenging and was pressed out. This is going to be rebuilt.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1555_zpsujvnpngl.jpg

It would appear that the mains are going to need replacing; but then that was expected, didn't expect that cleaning up the cases would take as long as it did. WD40 and elbow grease was in abundance.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1562_zpsumjps7nh.jpg

All of the bearings were pressed out of the cases and the seals pulled. Some easier then others. That was the left main seal, it came out like that so wasn't really doing much. Surprised the engine ran, but I think that explains the leak, just not how there was so much oil coming out.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1651_zpsczmi7gan.jpg

The clutch cover needed to be disassembled by removing the oil pump.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1653_zpskcggl91i.jpg

Which allowed me to remove the paint on the covers and cases using cellulose thinners. I then masked up the parts that I didn't want to paint and with a tin or two of aluminium engine paint had my own Banksy moment.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1655_zpsmwqikwq4.jpg

I baked them at 200°c for 1 hour to cure the paint.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1649_zpsrxpfrddp.jpg

The crank needs to be rebuilt and the barrel rebored then I can put it back together.

[Fen Tiger]

Great thread

[squirrel_hunter]

With the paint drying its time to turn my attention back to the empty frame.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1797_zps8n4s2fug.jpg

Now I'll save you all of the hundreds of photos I took along the way as I stripped the frame down and just give you the highlights as it were. The more I looked at the overspray from the paint and the light surface rust on the frame the more I knew that something had to be done. I was considering painting the frame as I'd not done that before but decided that powder coating was probably going to be the easiest and more resilient option as I'd found a good company to do it with the TZR.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1490_zpsilqthmvc.jpg

Before I can take the frame away I needed to sort a sticker out. Near the headstock is this little blue and white sticker, and I think its quite cool and something that I'd like to preserve on the bike. But it cant go through powercoating. Thankfully I managed to remove it with a sharp Stanley knife blade without damage. But I'm going to have to do something with it before it goes back on. That plan is in the works.

But anyway, what is the sticker I hear you ask? Well a little googling tells me its some sort of anti-theft scheme from Japan. Basically if it gets sold you can contact the scheme to ensure that its legitimate and that the owner has the right to sell it as I understand it. The best thing about it is the the numbers on the bottom have some meaning and shows that the bike was at some point and originally registered with the scheme from the Fukuoka prefecture. Awesome.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1811_zpseds0xgld.jpg

Not so awesome was the lower fairings upper mounts. That doesn't look factory to me.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1825_zpsio4nhenq.jpg

And the other side was even worse. It would appear that at some point for some reason the brackets mounting tabs were removed and then replaced with this monstrosity held in with self tapping screws. If anyone has a template of the correct tab it will be much appreciated...

[squirrel_hunter]

Back to stripping the bike and my attention turned to the forks. When I bought the bike the previous owner said he investigated them as they only have a spring in the right fork he wanted to see if he could fit one to the left fork. He concluded that he couldn't. I can't be sure who but someone who had previously been into the forks had failed to use the correct sized socket on the top bolts as they were damaged. Not hugely but enough to annoy me, the trouble is they are no longer available from Yamaha. So the first thing is to see what the bolts are by removing them, this needed to be done anyway as I need to take the forks apart.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1833_zpsrevgyuyg.jpg

And this is where I hit a problem. My god were those bolts tight, not even my big breaker bar could shift them. So the rattle gun came out again. Unfortunately the previous damage to the bolt head on the right resulted in the first attempt being a failure as the socket didn't seat properly almost rounding the bolt off. Thankfully the second attempt succeeded. However on the left the smoke coming from the tube after taking the bolt out indicated a problem, the thread inside the tube and on the bolt had stripped. I have a plan for this though.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1837_zpsgpmjeifj.jpg

Anyway frame off.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1851_zpsnse70uge.jpg

And I thought I'd use a bearing puller to take the races out of the head. Worked fine and was a little easier then the old hammer and punch.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1850_zpscuzn0ybn.jpg

I did use the hammer and chisel on the lower race, first time I've done one of those. Not to bad you just have to get over the fact you're smashing a great big chisel into a yoke.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1841_zpsfpm2olao.jpg

So that just left the forks to strip, the left without the spring.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1842_zpsnmxp24nj.jpg

And the right with.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1845_zpsyemzqn9k.jpg

Now I did my investigation of why you can't have a spring in the left, its because the fork lower doesn't have a spacer for it. This spacer is welded into the leg. Why Yamaha decided only to do one is something I can't understand as I doubt that adding the other spring would have bankrupted the company.

[andrewsmith]

Squirrel

You should be able to bribe stretch to weld some up

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/302086566769 found these looking for copying

Or...http://tractechmfg.com/product-category/ysr50/

Been doing the same as I'm potentially picking up a grey 400 for restoration

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

[squirrel_hunter]

I've got those side fairing stays, but at the moment no way to attach them to the bike without those bits of ally. There should be a bracket on the frame that they attach to but mine just aren't there.

What 400 are you looking at?

[andrewsmith]

Could be worth pm'ing bibio to see if he could make something.

Thinking gsxr 400 and doing a bit of modernising to it

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

[squirrel_hunter]

With the cases painted and all the parts needed to rebuild the engine purchased the arrival of the rebuilt crank heralded the beginning of the process.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1682_zpsefw5zdbs.jpg

And the process started with a bare right hand case half and replacement main bearings sourced from Wemoto.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1687_zpssedsdhnb.jpg

Along with seals from Yamaha and gearbox bearings from Simply Bearings selected by referencing the sizes stamped on the originals that I removed.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1688_zpszkquzz7h.jpg

The process was repeated on the left hand side with all bearings hydraulically pressed in. I so pleased I invested in a press makes changing bearings so much easier, thoroughly recommend one if you're getting into this type of thing.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1690_zpsdha28alj.jpg

And on the outer side of the case, the seals.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1692_zpsgwe9yntk.jpg

Piston Broke in Bristol rebuilt the crank for me. New mains and a new rod, which apparently took a couple of attempts to locate the correct one as he wanted to find me an exact replacement with the correct oil passages in it. The green bag in the picture was just stopping the rod from rolling round in transport and had the small end bearing in it from the rod kit.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1693_zpsy56idgrn.jpg

Next was to use my new tool, the crank puller. As the crank is in two half parts and pressed together with a set clearance you just can't hammer it into the main bearing but rather pull it through.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1695_zpsgocdr6za.jpg

Basically the tool uses the thread on the alternator side to hook onto and then as you tighten the main bolt against the body the crank is drawn through. I probably haven't explained that one very well but it works. The only tough part was right at the end ensuring the crank was all the way in as it was getting tighter and then the crank was trying to spin. So holding that while using the spanner on the tool and exerting the required force while holding the crankcase would have been better to have been with an extra set of hands.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1696_zpssr4xjium.jpg

And finally the crank was installed.

[squirrel_hunter]

And now the modifications begin.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1658_zpsef8wr5a2.jpg

I was browsing eBay shortly after I bought the bike looking for interesting bits and one of the listings that caught my eye was for a close ratio gear box. The only problem with this was that I could find no information it. The part number 2AL-17400-1S-93 sure looks like a Yamaha number but it wasn't appearing on any part lists and even the seller couldn't furnish any more details. Even google was coming up blank. The only information I found was from the YSR50 forum which cast doubt on it.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1659_zpssiczf0kw.jpg

However I'm a gambling man and negotiated with the seller, so didn't pay what was on the box as it had been sitting on their shelf for about 5 years or more. So I've either bought myself a brand new close ratio gearbox or a brand new gearbox.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1669_zpsxogstmca.jpg

Examination and comparison between the new and the old gear box shows that there are differences in the number of teeth on the cogs. If someone can explain what those differences are I'd be interested to know?

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1670_zpsmif8y4so.jpg

As well as the number of teeth there are some subtle differences in the cut of the gears and the shafts themselves. The bearings were new and supplied with kit but I used the ones that I sourced previously.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1698_zpsfnmhwbtt.jpg

So with that I put them into the crank case. I say put, well, lets just say I want a word with the designer of the vertical split crank case and gear box designer as that was a pain. Getting the shafts in and lined up at the same time as the selectors and drum ensuring that they are all connecting where they should took much longer than it should. A couple of close attempts just resulted in the gears locking others just ended with selector forks slipping out of their slots. But perseverance eventually brought success.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1700_zpsyso5fqek.jpg

And with that and some instant gasket the two halves were joined and the bolts tightened down. Getting the right hand side on was easy and the selection of gears was checked and all appeared to be there and running. But time will tell...

[maviczap]

Cool update

[garynortheast]

Well done SH, it's coming along nicely. I'm enjoying this thread.

[jagryan85]

Fascinating thread, the attention to detail makes it all worth while.

Regards

Ryan

[squirrel_hunter]

Now the hard part of getting the crank and gearbox in is over it should be plain sailing to get the rest of the engine together...

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1705_zpsmvg8diwf.jpg

Bearing holders for the gearbox are held in with the addition of threadlock, and the gear selector shaft slid through the cases.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1706_zpspyxswftd.jpg

Over to the other side and the shaft is retained by a circlip. The plastic bolt at the top of the engine containing the stopper cam went on, and I also decided to install the coil plate but couldn't put the neutral switch in as I was missing its gasket. Not to worry it's easily accessible and on the outside of the engine so can be sorted later.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1710_zpsq8worely.jpg

Back to the right hand side and the kickstart idle gear and kickstart assembly can go in. This is where I encountered my second problem. I could not get the spring to line up in the case. Its not easy to see from this angle but there is a recess in the case that the back of the spring clip needs to sit in and slide along as the kickstart is turned. After a lot of attempts at setting it, taking it apart and reassembling I eventually worked out what I was doing wrong. When I took the engine apart the rattle gun fired the kickstart out and when it landed it knocked the clip out of position. All I needed to do was to rotate it back round to the correct position. Simple.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1711_zpsdrmyt2w6.jpg

Next was the primary drive and the outer clutch hub as I would need that anyway to lock the crank to tighten the primary drive nut.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1712_zpstbpit6ml.jpg

After that it was the inner hub which is retained by a new spring washer which of course I didn't have. Remember at the beginning when I said I had all the parts needed, well that was a little overstatement. Thankfully Fowlers had the bits in stock so a trip down the M4 was on for me.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1713_zpsdws6tomm.jpg

While I was in Fowlers I also picked up the only other outstanding part I needed, a gasket for the neutral switch, so that went in.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1716_zpsk7syiypp.jpg

The inner hub was installed with the new spring washer along with a new set of EBC CK clutch plates and damper rubbers.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1717_zpsx9tjcrp4.jpg

The pressure plate then went on with a new set of OEM springs.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1718_zps8sxu11rs.jpg

And finally the alternator rotor.

[DomP]

Impressive stuff!

I have to attempt an engine strip and rebuild one day or rather a full bike build. I've done it to a briggs and stratton mower engine but I'm not sure that counts.

[squirrel_hunter]

Yeah that counts, have you seen James May's The Reassembler, fascinates me that does.

[dirtydog]

Im wondering if the fork set up is similar to the pw50? They have no oil in them, a spring in one fork leg and a damper rod in the other fork leg

[squirrel_hunter]

Sounds like a similar setup but without the damper rod but the oil in its place. I have a plan for these forks though, don't worry about that...

[andrewsmith]

Sounds like a similar setup but without the damper rod but the oil in its place. I have a plan for these forks though, don't worry about that...
Tzr125rr race forks

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

[squirrel_hunter]

Tzr125rr race forks

I think that might require a lot more work than I'm capable of. Also these forks are about half the length of a full size bikes, I can only imagine the number of times I'd smack my face on them when applying the brakes!

[AZ Pete]

Subscribed



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[andrewsmith]

I think that might require a lot more work than I'm capable of. Also these forks are about half the length of a full size bikes, I can only imagine the number of times I'd smack my face on them when applying the brakes!
Trailie with normal forks lol

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

[Nobbylad]

Damn you Squirrel_Hunter....I'm searching for 2-stroke 500cc projects now!

[squirrel_hunter]

I might have just found the perfect bike for you on eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HARRIS-YAMAHA-YZR500-OWC1-RACE-BIKE-1992-/252706900012)...

[DomP]

Why did you do that? I was going to bid on that bike and now I've got competition

[squirrel_hunter]

There is no replacement for displacement.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1719_zpsipx4nqsm.jpg

And as the aim a 500GP I feel I might need a little increase over the original 50cc. Swapping the engine for something bigger had crossed my mind but at this point I think its obvious I'm not taking that route. I did think about converting to the YSR80 engine, but I want to stay true to the bikes roots but all the while increasing the power.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1720_zpskz1zwijg.jpg

So Wiseco have supplied me with a nice little bag that contains a 57cc piston. And while Piston Broke was rebuilding my crank I got him to rebore the cylinder to match.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1722_zpsophoyij1.jpg

I actually forgot to take a side by side comparison of the pistons, but lets just say the new one looks pretty. Getting the rings in and the circlips on for some reason was tougher than the last time I did this. But once they were on the piston was given a nice coat of oil as was the bearings before and after installation.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1724_zps2qy5udcc.jpg

The barrel has been painted with Halfords VHT Cylinder Black and baked in the oven.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1725_zpsckzvvssy.jpg

The studs were the originals. I wanted to replace them as they had a little surface rust on them and one stuck nut but Yamaha no longer have them available. Thankfully the addition of heat freed the nut off and running a die over the thread tided them up.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1731_zpstr671gd4.jpg

The head was then painted with Halfords VHT Silver baked and installed with along with a new spark plug. The sprocket cover with a regreased clutch lifter was installed along with the alternator cover.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1732_zpsshvtautd.jpg

This will obviously come back off later during the install to get the clutch cable in there, but its nice to see it together and takes up less space in the garage.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1785_zpsnylnq0dq.jpg

The clutch cover had a new seals and the oil pump added.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1788_zpsafgzbf5q.jpg

The cover then went onto the engine. You might notice that the covers are a slightly different shade of aluminium to the crankcases, and your right they are even though they have been painted with the same paint. Can't explain that one, but I don't mind I think it adds to it.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1796_zpscnoqdten.jpg

Finally the oil pump cover and the kickstart completes it.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1793_zpsztdgbcnf.jpg

And that completes the engine build. This is also one of my favourite pictures of the engine, it has so much character to it. I've sealed up the engine to stop anything getting in there while my attention turns to the frame...

[Blapper]

Sweet!

[Nobbylad]

I might have just found the perfect bike for you on eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HARRIS-YAMAHA-YZR500-OWC1-RACE-BIKE-1992-/252706900012)...

Damn you getting my hopes up!

I'm actually quite keen on the 250cc imports as they're far more accessible.

[squirrel_hunter]

Shocking developments... Can you see where this is going?

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1912_zpsdwissaw5.jpg

The original rear shock is somewhat underwhelming. Its going to be a basic budget shock and probably weighted for the Japanese home market, which would have suited me perfectly some 20 years ago. Its got over spray on the spring and will need a rebuild, but probably isn't a serviceable item. And in keeping with the builds goals this isn't going to do.

The trouble is finding a replacement shock isn't as easy as you might think, the YSR was not exactly a best seller. However research showed that there are a few out there, "Fox Twin Clicker" is something that came up now and again and I did see one sell on eBay for something like $450. But if I were to buy that and ship it over then rebuild it if I could the price would land on the wrong side of interesting.

I had heard that Ohlins made one, but they don't list it. Coincidentally I needed the Ohlins on my SV serviced so took that to MH Rracing (http://www.mhracing.com/) and asked about getting a Ohlins for the YSR. Surprisingly he was familiar with the bike and shock but confirmed that it was no longer produced. However he'd see if he could build one from parts, but that came with the warning of it not being cheap.

Unfortunately building from parts wasn't possible as some of the vital parts are simply not available any more. I did then think about contacting Nitron who produced my shock for the TZR for them to make me one but just as I was about to I struck a deal with a chap in America and a couple of weeks later a parcel arrived.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1398_zpsgojifvfd.jpg

It is a WP shock model number W3990. But as expected it was in a bit of a sorry state. The anodising on the reservoir was faded. The powder coat on the spring was chipped. There was little to no oil or gas in it judging by the slide. And the seller did say that the hose might need replacing. But it was so cheap compared to anything else and I'd never heard of WP having made one before so couldn't resist.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1406_zpsxzfqy3j2.jpg

Having located a shock all I need to do was to get it bike ready. And to do so I took it down to MH Racing for inspection, he was surprised to see the shock as he didn't know WP did one but confirmed it was a good choice and that it was salvageable if I wanted it serviced. But I told him no, I didn't want it serviced, I wanted it like new.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1888_zpsjbugcseo.jpg

And I've got to say I think he's done a wonderful job.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1889_zpsgb1pfmly.jpg

The hose was replaced as it just spurted oil out as soon as it was pressurised. Tracking down the internal seals took some time but a kit for another shock fitted it nicely. The bump stop he had to make. The body was painted, the reservoir re-anodised, and the spring powdercoated. The rest was aqua blasted and finished off on to a high standard.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1890_zpsyhsryhsz.jpg

The observant might notice that the reservoir has swapped sides, this is a combination of accident and design. Rooting the hose on test fittings was interesting, but I have an idea. Just got to get it on the bike proper now.

[littleoldman2]

Very nice attention to detail.

[maviczap]

Sweet

[garynortheast]

Lovely job!

[squirrel_hunter]

About a week after dropping the frame off at Bristol Motorcycle Powder Coating (http://www.bristolmotorcyclepowdercoating.co.uk/) the same outfit I used for the TZR, I get a call to say come and collect it, so I did. Top quality as before, I'd recommend them.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1872_zpsu1btdwzg.jpg

Now the observant among us might notice that there are 2 yokes (they came with a spare set of forks), some plates (these are from the seat unit and are the seat and back pad base), and the fork lowers which are just out of shot. Oh and that there is no swing arm, there is a very good reason for this...

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1874_zps6u73nxgz.jpg

First thing to do is stick the races back in the frame. These come from a set of All Balls Racing tapered bearings.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1875_zpsxl31mu3n.jpg

Then to put the lower bearing on the yoke. This is the first time I've done this so after a little YouTube research I lubed up the bearing, placed the dust seal on the yoke, slid the bearing on, and then:

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1876_zpswh9a5obu.jpg

Turned the yoke upside down and using the original lower race so as not to work on the outer cage, press the new bearing onto the yoke. Worked out nicely.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1878_zps9omx41hl.jpg

I've put the yoke into the frame but not tightened it up properly as I'll set the bearings later. I've also ordered a replacement top cover as this one is showing its age and has a little dent in it I didn't notice on disassembly.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1882_zpsbvojgcwh.jpg

And then it was time for a test fitting of the Team Calamari Racing top yoke. Its a lovely CNC billet piece that came with a set of spare forks (more on them later). Unfortunately the previous owner has drilled a hole off centre through the TCR writing. I need to fix this, I have an idea don't worry.

[squirrel_hunter]

The reason the swing arm wasn't power coated was fairly simple, the stock arm is just well just that, stock and that isn't what I'm looking for. So imagine how happy I was when a 1.5" extended aluminium swing arm came up for sale via eBay in America.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1884_zpsd0a0qtkn.jpg

It's nice enough as it is, even with a couple of little marks where its been used before. All I've done is given it a little run over with some Autosol.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1887_zpsjjqtgur0.jpg

I noticed the bearings were some cheap made in China items so took them out along with the inner tube and replaced them with a set of NSK's. Got them from Swindon Bearings (http://www.swindonbearings.com/), and again used my press to put them in.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1894_zpscx3geqfe.jpg

The chain guide is from the original machine as the one that was on the swing arm was cracked and split in a couple of places. Now all I need to do is put the arm into the frame.

[maviczap]

sweet

[squirrel_hunter]

Back to the front forks. Thought I would rebuild them tonight, however I've discovered I haven't got replacement seals. I've ordered these now.

While I wait for them to arrive, I decided to do some measurements. If we cast our minds back a little to my annoyance with Yamaha for not putting springs in both fork legs it turns out I'm not the first to be troubled with this. TCR do a fork spring kit for the right fork. So some time ago I bought one. The kit is simplistic but then all the best ideas are. Its a metal rod and a spring of the same length as the left (I suspect this is an OEM spring).

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1845_zpsyemzqn9k.jpg

Looking at the picture into the fork bottoms, you can see one has a spring seat quite high up, this is the left sprung fork, and the right fork does have some sort of seat but its much further down the leg and this is the unsprung fork. The rod in the TCR kit sits on this seat to create a spring seat to match the left fork.

So I put the rod in the right fork and compared it with the left. I could see straight away there was a difference so I started to measure.

On the left there is a gap of 40mm from the spring seat to the top of the fork. With the TCR rod installed and measuring from the spring seat to the fork top there is a gap of 47mm. A 7mm difference. Please note its not the easiest thing to measure so lets give it a 0.5mm tolerance as that shouldn't be a problem. But is 7mm?

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1924_zpsrwjhypp2.jpg

Now things get interesting. The spare set of forks I bought already had a right fork spring conversion in it. The rods clearly look different, the TCR one is the round bar, the other is a hex bar of unknown origin. However they are different lengths. The TCR rod is 159mm from base to spring seat, the other is 162mm from base to spring seat. But neither takes the right spring seat to the match the left. Oh and the hex bar base is not flat. I even checked the measurements on the other set of fork lowers and they come out the same.

To me and my admittedly limited understanding of good suspension would say that you want both fork legs to be the same so they behave the same. So you would want both forks to have springs in them and for them to be the same length. And with the conversion installed I would have springs in both but not at the same length. Does this give me a problem to solve?

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1925_zpswbrq8u3j.jpg

And now things get more interesting. In the left fork there is an upper spring seat. But in the right according to the installation guide this is not needed. In fact the installation instructions tells you to remove this spring seat from the left fork and discard it. Now I suspect this upper spring seat acts as a way of preventing the spring from moving when it shouldn't and possibly as some sort of preload. Without the upper spring seat the fork top bolt acts as the spring seat, and even if I wanted an upper spring seat the other set of forks didn't contain one and the part is no longer available from Yamaha.

And now things get even more interesting. According to the instructions the left fork should have 125cc of oil in it and the right 110cc. Does this difference account for the 7mm difference in spring seat height? If I compare it to the Yamaha service manual the left fork should have 126cc of oil and a 146mm air gap. Obviously the right oil level isn't comparable from Yamaha, but if you have decided to convert the right fork to match the left then wouldn't it make sense to have the same oil in both.

So in summary: do I need to find a rod with a spring seat to match the left as well as an upper spring seat and the same oil and air gap in both forks, or do I follow the TCR kit instructions?

[Blapper]

I would talk to TCR about it. If they are a kosher outfit somebody there will know summat. If not, it may be trial and error. I cant see how you can double the spring rate without having a front end that feels like it's solid personally.

[21QUEST]

Hello SH, It doesn't matter if you gave different settings in each fork leg...in use, they work as a unit/average out.

[squirrel_hunter]

I've sent TCR an email about it so will hopefully get a reply soon. I was thinking a little more about the difference in oil level in each fork and was considering the difference in volume taken up by the new rod compared to the one in the left fork as the left fork takes up less volume. But even with that my calculations still don't make each fork equal. My thinking with the oil is to use the Yamaha level and air gap on both forks. I'll have to think about it.

I understand about it working as a unit as after all Yamaha and others are happy supplying the bikes with just the single fork spring. And I'm sure you'll never get two sets of forks exactly the same as there are tolerances. But if I could reduce that tolerance or improve on the design surely that would add to the 500GP prototype idea of the build...

[andrewsmith]

Being a bit left field with this SH,
You possibly could transplant the left hand stanchion and internals into the right.

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

[squirrel_hunter]

As I do have a spare set of forks I did think about using the other left on the right, but then that would leave me with the mudguard mounts on the wrong side and more troubling no caliper mount...

[andrewsmith]

As I do have a spare set of forks I did think about using the other left on the right, but then that would leave me with the mudguard mounts on the wrong side and more troubling no caliper mount...
I was more thinking of using the right hand bottom. And the left hand stanchion and internals

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

[Blapper]

So how will you deal with double the spring rate or are you 25 stone? ;-)

[squirrel_hunter]

I was more thinking of using the right hand bottom. And the left hand stanchion and internals

I see, but no. The difference is in the fork lower not the stanchion.

But I think I've decided on what to do with this. Updates to follow...

So how will you deal with double the spring rate or are you 25 stone? ;-)

Oi I resemble that!

Not sure of the spring rate but I can imagine that having the other spring in there will firm it up a bit and according to the reviews improve the handling a bit. The thing to remember is that this bike was never really intended for a full size European. Plus as I'm improving the rear I might as well have a go at the front.

[squirrel_hunter]

I've gotten a little out of sequence and a bit behind with updates as I'd did something else before the forks. And that was to stick the swing arm and shock into the frame.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1902_zpsyjnvoxbz.jpg

A fairly simple arrangement, one bolt on the top, one on the bottom of the shock and of course the spindle. Liberal amounts of grease was used on the moving parts. The shock has a rose joint arrangement at the top and bottom mounts, so the grease is sealed in with an o-ring and spacer arrangement.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1906_zpsrxsrxkj2.jpg

The shock reservoir is temporarily in place held on with zip ties until I get further on with the build and finalise its placement.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1900_zpsxulq4joa.jpg

As an interesting thing the lower mount is not a bolt, its just a pin secured with a split pin. I did think about changing it for a nut and bolt, but quite like this unusual arrangement so I will keep it.

So I now hit the problems as nothing is ever simple. The first being I noticed there was some side to side movement of the shock body at the lower mount. The whole shock moves, and that movement was not caused by the rose joints. So out it came and the measurements started. The original mount is about 20mm wide, the mount on this swing arm is 22mm wide. Now to prove it I slipped a copper washer in as a spacer which basically solved the movement problem. However this is not a very elegant solution, I have a better one in the pipeline so that's not the big problem.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1908_zpsnjnmmv37.jpg

The big problem is the swing arm movement on the bearings. Outside of the frame the bearings rotate fine. In the frame they rotate fine. With the spindle in they rotate fine. Torqued up however they are stiff and have notches and I'm not happy. I loosened the nut off and its fine, tighten up and so does the movement. So the implication if I'm right is that the frame is pressing on the bearings under load. So what are my options?

[Bibio]

inner spacer missing?

looking good SH :-)

[andrewsmith]

I would say spacer missing too.

I'm interested to see how you've done the forks

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

[squirrel_hunter]

The spacer is in the swing arm that's for sure. The bearings are also fully down on their seat in the arm. Even if the spacer wasn't in there it shouldn't change how those bearings are sitting. Which makes me think that maybe the width of the arm and bearings are to much, but only just. I suppose all I can do is take them out again and measure, then replace them again. The worry would be if they as I suspect will be the same. So assuming that I wonder what my options would be?

[andrewsmith]

Check them without striping them out and add a small shim and see what happens.
I'm thinking over torqued and pinched

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

[squirrel_hunter]

So the latest update is back with the rear shock as things are a little out of sequence as I didn't actually notice the bearing issue until I was fixing the the movement in the shock. Finding the time to do things on the bike and then write it up hasn't been easy recently, work mainly getting in the way. But anyway, enough of that, bikes are more interesting.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1910_zpsachzf2zc.jpg

To solve the movement issue the most elegant solution was to get a new spacer. Trouble is you can't really get this in the local bike shop so I had to go to Rolling Art Motorcycles to make me a pair. In the photo the two new ones are on the left the original on the right. The difference between them? 1.1mm.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1917_zpsqs88doqr.jpg

With the rose joint greased up again and with orings on the new spacers to keep the grease in the assembly slipped nicely into the fork on the swing arm leaving no play whatsoever, perfect machining.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1916_zpsiyu6w7cp.jpg

And on the subject of machining they also sorted the top yoke for me. The hole was bored out so it appeared to be an original weight saving design. But as that would completely mess the lettering up that was then milled off for me. Its a bit shiny compared to the rest as I suspect it is an anodised finish, so I could get it anodised or I could go for the other option...

[squirrel_hunter]

Cast your minds back to the disassembly of the bike and the forks in particular. Time to show off the solution to the fork bolt problem. Just a quick recap, the bolts had previously been removed with the wrong size socket, my impact gun made more of a mess of one when the socket didn't seat properly, and one ended up stripping the thread inside of the fork stanchion. Finally Yamaha no longer have the bolt available. Thankfully I bought a spare set of forks, but not for that reason as when I bought them I hadn't yet discovered the problems I encountered.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1930_zpskzhhfvqs.jpg

So why buy them then? Simple I happened to notice in the picture of the eBay listing something that didn't look quite right to me and there wasn't anything about them in the listing, but the fork caps didn't look standard, so I took a gamble and got them shipped over from America.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1931_zpsmtqwgrd2.jpg

The bolts were machined and looked to have some sort of valve in them. Reminded me of my old NC23. I took them down to MH Racing when I dropped the shock off to be rebuilt. I was told that they are air valves used to pressurise the forks, they were a bit of a thing back in the late '80's or so. But one of the valves appeared to be missing and there appeared to be some sort of balance pipe also missing hence the black bits on the caps.

I think that at some point the valve or cap in one of the legs failed and was modified hence why one has a higher valve cover. My idea was to replace the valve internals and get new caps. The first problem was what on earth the valves were, then where to get replacements.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1934_zpscmini0bo.jpg

It turns out these are Schrader valves and I bought replacements from the bicycle section of my local Halfords. I don't believe there is any real difference in the colours of them or the length effecting performance, the originals are green the replacements are black. Only time will tell.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1935_zpscg3pvrr2.jpg

The final problem was solved by Rolling Art Motorcycles who made me replacement caps without the balance take off or the extra cap. They even took the time to cut further into the cap and not to thread it all the way down so I could put an oring in there like in the original.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1929_zpsqtv8jh20.jpg

So now it was just a case of building the forks. New seals from All Balls, new clips and washers from Yamaha with new orings, lubed up and put together. The only thing missing is the right fork spring as I have yet to decide on that solution.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1938_zpspypetvyp.jpg

With both forks assembled and the caps on it was time to add a fork brace from Trac Tech (http://tractechmfg.com/product-category/ysr50/), final positioning will be done once the forks are in the frame and filled with oil once I have the spring solution, dust seals will also go on don't worry.

Oh and I'm open to suggestions on what pressure to put into the forks...

[squirrel_hunter]

And I almost forgot, those fork caps, if anyone knows anymore about them I'd be interested to know. I think they might have been made by a company called Daytona as this is the closest match I've seen in photos but can't be sure. Any information appreciated.

[squirrel_hunter]

With this update we are still on the forks. TCR kindly got back to me with answers to my questions about the fork spring kit. In short the difference is spacer length isn't considered an issue as there can be some variation in the length of the springs and the spacers. The fork oil difference is due to the original spring seat having a different diameter and thus volume to the new spring seat spacer. And the upper spring seat isn't needed but can be used to make the front end firmer as it acts as preload but will be needed on both forks if wanted.

So my plan is to fill the forks with oil to the same air gap in both forks as per the Yamaha manual (146mm, fork compressed, no spring). I am yet to make a decision on the upper spring seat, but for the lower new spring seat, according to my calculations its short by 7mm. So its time I make my own...

Thanks to Wyrdness suggesting looking for my local hackspace, I found Swindon Makerspace (http://www.swindon-makerspace.org/) and joined up.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1939_zpsatdzepsa.jpg

Materials 4 Me (https://www.materials4me.co.uk/) provided me with some suitably sized 6082 T6 Aluminium bar.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1940_zps473vrwkh.jpg

That I then passed through the lathe and milling machine.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1942_zpsj35mcicx.jpg

To produce my own custom length spring seat.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1943_zpskt5uve3b.jpg

And as you can see in the photo it is slightly longer than my TCR spring seat and so matches perfectly the height of the spring seat in the left fork.

Now this is only the first thing I've ever made on the lathe and while its functional its not perfect. The finish on the surface is not smooth, I think if I were to place a needle and amplifier on it I'll hear a nice recipe for lentil soup. I've had a little play with speeds and used a new tool but not really found any improvement. I could use some sand paper on it but I'd like to get it right on the lathe so I'm open to suggestions?

I will add that yes I know its a Chinese machine so by definition isn't going to be considered the best. I'm still getting used to it, I'm not convinced of the scales on the dials, and there is some slack in the x and notches in the y, but its better than having nothing at all. I am learning as I go, the first and most important lesson is that after cutting a fresh part off of the bar stock don't pick it up straight away as it will be very hot. I'm currently missing the finger prints on my thumb and forefinger.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1941_zpsuyuyttxa.jpg

And now I have use of a lathe and milling machine, the possibilities are endless. For example that is an aluminium left hand side rear wheel spacer that I made which is a dramatic 29g lighter than the Yamaha original part...

[BigFootIsBlurry]

And now I have use of a lathe and milling machine, the possibilities are endless. For example that is an aluminium left hand side rear wheel spacer that I made which is a dramatic 29g lighter than the Yamaha original part...

This thing is going to fly! [emoji12]

[andrewsmith]

If it didn't have SH on it it would float away stock

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

[andrewsmith]

Sh, you got any more done?

Or did you make another bet on completing it and failed?

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

[squirrel_hunter]

A fair question.

There is no bet, but I do have a rough date that I'm targeting to complete. However more recently things haven't progressed as quickly as I would have hoped. This is due to either other commitments or difficulties encountered. Leaving the former and going with the latter, there are two main issues; stripping, and feed and speed.

Starting with stripping first. I want to paint the wheels and I'm going to do them myself. But to do it properly first I need to remove the old paint, this has proven to be harder than I anticipated. However this has now been successful.

The next is feed and speed. Basically getting a good finish on the parts I'm making. Most of it is down to experience, I'm teaching myself how to drive this lathe and am learning on the job so things won't go right first time. I'm actually on my 5th attempt now on one part, but the good news is that there is improvement with every iteration.

A proper update will follow once I've made some better progress but be warned that might be a couple of weeks. However while you wait for that I shall leave you with a bit of a teaser... The body work has arrived, and I've came up with an idea that to implement will require a lot of thinking and be even more unique.

[squirrel_hunter]

So its been a little while since my last update but things have been happening in the background and I've been spending a lot of time on the lathe. And so its the lathe that makes an appearance for this fork update. My first attempt at the spring seat though functional was not pretty, I couldn't get that smooth finish that you normally see on machined parts and so was not happy. It took me 5 attempts to get it where I was happy and involved playing with the machine more, eventually I found the right speed 470rpm and the right setting on the auto feed (setting 3, 1/8th).

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1966_zpsadf2lcyf.jpg

And so that is the finished spring seat. If you were wondering the seat is (and please remember these are +-0.5mm) 16mm diameter and 166mm from the base to the seat, the spring locator is a further 5.5mm on top and 9mm in diameter. In the picture above my spring seat is the top one.

The seat was then put into the right hand fork and oil added. I have filled both forks with 10wt oil and have a 146mm air gap measured with a compressed fork springless. So next is to fit the springs. I'm using the ones from the spare forks and as can be seen they are both the same length. The spring is installed with the smaller taper at the top so the larger end fits over the locator, both springs are installed in this orientation.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1962_zpszxncychl.jpg

The next problem I had with the forks was the upper spring seat. This spacer that acts as preload was not in the spare set of forks and of course there was only one in the bike originally and Yamaha no longer supply them. My original idea was to make my own as I have a lathe now fairly simply its a M20x1.0mm thread so a die of the right size is easy to buy. The real problem is making the 8mm hex hole or to use the technical term, to broach a 8mm hex. If you want to blow your mind search youtube for a video on drilling a square hole, its the same principle for the hex, so all I need is a broaching tool. I did a little research and found a good tool at $1600, a little bit pricey for making one part. You can use a manual broach (again check it out on youtube) basically its a harderned tool that you press through the hole to cut the hex, again these are $500. You can make your own but I wasn't confident on this.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1967_zpsgusbe3ax.jpg

Thankfully eventually via the medium of eBay a secondhand original spring seat turned up. Unfortunately I've forgotten username from the YSR forum of the chap that supplied it to me, but if you're reading this thanks very much and thanks for the other part...

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1968_zpsnwhve8jj.jpg

Upper spring seat in and fork caps on they are good to go. Once they go in the frame I can add the dust seals and the handlebars allowing me to tighten them up properly.

The next update will involve some more parts that I have made.

[squirrel_hunter]

Lets turn our attention to the rear brake. Its a drum rear, I did consider a disc brake rear conversion using TZM wheels, but for reasons that will become apparent later I decided to stick with the drum.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1997_zpskexihonn.jpg

I don't have a picture of the original drum back plate from the bike off of the machine, so this is a spare I have. A fairly simple design and I suspect is used on other models with a spacer to allow the wheel to align.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1998_zpsbx4rxenw.jpg

The trouble is I don't like the idea of trying to line a loose spacer up with the wheel, drum back plate, and other spacer against the swingarm while trying to get an axle through. So I had an idea and took the back plate and spacer to Rolling Art to weld on. As the back plate is aluminium and they needed to take it elsewhere to weld, the trouble is the spacer is steel.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1999_zpsadzvfw00.jpg

Anyway due to a little confusion and scheduling I had time to make an ally replacement and took it up to Rolling Art for them to weld on.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2005_zpsptfgjdet.jpg

The problem was they had already made me a replacement ally one and had it welded on. To be fair theirs was better than mine as they have an angle in there like the original and I just have a shoulder, however I now know how to make that.

And if you were wondering the steel spacer weighs 30g my ally one weighs 10g. I've also painted the back plate in Halfords aluminium enamel high temperature spray paint (http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/specialist-decorative-paints/halfords-enamel-high-temperature-spray-paint-aluminium-300ml), 4 coats then cooked at 250o for an hour. But this gave me a rough dusty finish so a quick rub over with a green scourer that you use in the kitchen smoothed it off nicely so I'm pleased.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2007_zpszi5p8p7x.jpg

Now all that is needed is to add the cam, lever, and wear indicator.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2008_zpse0pylhv5.jpg

Followed by a fresh set of EBC shoes.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2010_zpskqrpzthi.jpg

And the rear brake is ready to go onto the hub...

[squirrel_hunter]

The hubs, unfortunately I don't have any good pictures of them off the bike but they were painted gold and that needed to be changed. To paint them properly first I need to remove the old paint, I tried cellulose thinners, Nitromors, and a wire brush on a drill. But none of it really worked, the closest was the wire brush but due to the intricate design and recesses of the hub the old paint was still there. So there was only one answer, sandblasting. Trouble is I don't have a sandblaster. Thankfully Rolling Art pointed me in the direction of a chemical strippers that they use so a trip to an industrial estate and for an extremely reasonable price very quickly Centaur Stripping (http://www.centaurstripping.co.uk/) took all the old paint off for me.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1969_zpsodzker3p.jpg

The hubs were painted in the same way as the back plate (as they were painted at the same time) cooked and rubbed down. All that I needed to do was add some bearings and seals.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1970_zpsj7wubgmw.jpg

All Balls supplied the bearing kits and the installation with my little press started. Don't worry about the little surface rust on the drum, that will come off the first time I use the rear brake, but that might take some time as I don't actually use the rear, but that's another story.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1972_zpsqtkkohtn.jpg

When assembling the rear there is a spacer with a rim on it that should only go in one way. I added some grease to it before sealing it in there with the other bearing. I used the axle to ensure that the spacer was correctly aligned before bringing the bearing down to rest on its seat. Oddly there is only a seal on the sprocket side not the drum side, this is as per the parts fiche but the kit did contain a second seal, I'm not sure if I should use it?

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1975_zpsmiygryr6.jpg

Over to the front hub next.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1976_zpspzpikapl.jpg

Same process as before, comparing to my spare set the seal is quite high so that how I fitted it. Lesson for future ensure that you have more photos of parts before disassembly as without the spare to work from I might have set the seal lower.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1977_zpsj6now8is.jpg

Anyway the front hub only had one seal like the rear, but unlike the rear kit there was only one seal.

Next I fit the rims so the tyres that are on order have something to attach too...

[squirrel_hunter]

The rims, now I could have just stripped the originals back to bare metal and painted them to match the hubs, but I wanted to do something a little different. And a while back I picked up a secondhand set of Douglas aluminium billet racing wheels.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_1992_zpsmo6zl8mk.jpg

All I've done to them is to give them a little rub over with some Autosol. There are some marks on there like with the swingarm but that's fine, that just adds character. Interestingly they each weigh about 1.5kg each.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2017_zpsbmiplltf.jpg

Next the freshly built hubs were installed on the rims. I've not torqued the bolts up yet as I'm in two minds about replacing the nuts and bolts for some new ones as they are showing their age a little.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2018_zpsxzv8ywth.jpg

And finally Bike Treads (http://www.biketreads.co.uk/) stuck a set of Dunlop TT93 tyres on for me.

Now before I fit them to the bike I need to sort that swingarm bearing out as it is not rotating smoothly. So I took the arm out and had a look and the bearings are scrap. I think what has happened is on installing the arm I managed to over tighten the pivot bolt as I can see the frame expand a fair bit when I loosened it off. It didn't feel that tight on assembly and its only up to 40nm, but obviously something went wrong. Hopefully a new set of bearings will solve this, but getting the old ones out is going to be fun again...

[squirrel_hunter]

As I didn't have a drift narrow and long enough to knock the crushed swing arm bearings out I took the arm up to Rolling Art Motorcycles to knock them out and take a look at the arm. Everything appeared to be correct on inspection but the reason for crushing the bearings were unclear. I decided and hoped that it might have just been "one of those things" so stuck a new set in and put the arm back in the frame. Unfortunately it wasn't one of those things something was amiss but I didn't know what. So back to Rolling Art to pick their brains this time armed with the swingarm and the rest of the frame.

After some investigation and measuring it looks like the internal swingarm spacer is 0.32mm short. It doesn't sound much but as the swingarm bolt is tightened against the frame the inner races of the bearings are moving out of line and result in a tight and notchy movement. The plan was to put the spacer on the reverse lathe, but unfortunately its made of aluminium so a shim was in order. Thankfully Rolling Art had some stainless steal shim material that was 0.4mm thick and so this was added onto the spacer before having a new set of bearings put in. The arm went back in the frame, was tightened up and all was good, some nice smooth movement.

I now have a frame swingarm and wheels ready, so it was time to put them together.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2024_zpsvnwnvt3x.jpg

Forks went in first with the bike somewhat precariously balanced on some boxes as I proceeded to set the steering bearings. I needed to run a tap down one of the lower fork clamp bolts which presented the problem of there not being a M10x1.25 tap in my set. Thankfully a local hardware store had one so I could continue.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2025_zpsd5xydh14.jpg

I put the original disc back on the front wheel, tightened the hub bolts and then put the bike on a paddock stand before putting the wheel in.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2027_zps388cfblm.jpg

Now a slight mistake on my part as I appear to have forgotten to take a couple of picture of the captive wheel spacers I've made. If I'm honest the bike doesn't really need them as the front and rear wheel spacers are quite long but they were fun to design and make. Basically they are just a remake of the original spacers in aluminium but with a 0.5mm lip on them that sits behind the dust seal so they don't just slip out they make it a determined effort to remove them so you don't have to have an extra set of hands to put the wheel in. And it worked quite well.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2026_zpssv4amzn6.jpg

The speedo drive is locked into the fork correctly on the front as well so all good to go there.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2029_zpssz21zrkd.jpg

Onto the rear and a new sprocket (44 Tooth) and retaining tabs were installed onto the hub and the hub tightened against the rim. The wheel then fitted nicely in the arm with its captive left spacer and welded right spacer.

Its starting to look more like a bike now. But back to the front and it was time to add a little bit of stabilisation in the form of a steering damper. Now I know some people will say this isn't really needed for a road bike of this nature and I can see that view point, but remember the theme of the build is 500GP and as most racers have one it would be rude not to.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2032_zpsbmaodbmo.jpg

The damper and fitting kit was sourced from the US via eBay and a company called Parts Traders. The damper is a 7 way adjustable unit made by Billetanium, it looks the part but I need to finalise the mounting points and change one agricultural looking bolt on it.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2034_zpszet8v7vf.jpg

Looking at the bike I could see steering might be an issue so it was time to fit a set of TCR handle bars. I need to finalise the position of them as well as the fork height and the fork brace but that can be done when more of the bike comes together.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2040_zpsranvakf5.jpg

Sitting back looking at the machine I can really see the progress that I've made, its had a little delay with the swingarm but with that fixed so much has came together so quickly. Now the only question I have is considering I'm building this in my house on the first floor, when should I move it into the garage, before or after I put the engine in?

[R1ffR4ff]

I'm not a racer or into racing mods etc but that's beautiful work by anyone's standards :)

[garynortheast]

Looking really good there SH. Great build thread, I'm really enjoying seeing this all come together.

[sl0th86]

Awesome! If it was just up to me it'll all be done in the living room! Hahaha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[squirrel_hunter]

Oh dear. I've just noticed how long its been since I updated this build thread, there have been a couple of reasons for this mainly I wanted to have something interesting to add but that took a lot more time then I expected and other things have been taking my time. So here is a bit of a long overdue post.

Firstly I'm still using Photobucket. Sorry. I'm not happy about this due to the farcical charging model they have tried to add, but there are at the moment plugins are available and moving all of my photos and links will be a hell of a job I'm not about to do.

So here we go, I've cleaned up the undertray.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2041_zpsyylyiks7.jpg

But I'm not going to leave it at that.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2050_zpsw7a8gpqc.jpg

If you are refitting the engine you need to ensure that the freshly painted rear mount is in the correct rotation.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2052_zpstuvcysvd.jpg

This means that the engine can be reattached to the frame. For easy of refitting I removed the damper.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2054_zps6b3xvijs.jpg

So that leaves a bike with an engine now in it in my front room. And just in case anyone was wondering what my place is like, the best description is first floor flat. Am I going to regret this?

[shiftin_gear98]

No, what could possibly go wrong. ;)

[maviczap]

No it makes a nice coffee table :p

Good job it wasn't s Z1300 or a CBX :)

[andrewsmith]

No it makes a nice coffee table [emoji14]

Good job it wasn't s Z1300 or a CBX :)Or a goldwing

Or a blackbird

https://pbs.twimg.com/profile_images/3274291255/432bf79d45c5aa9bcdce9b24219d4385_400x400.jpeg

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[andy650]

The Gags were never imported officially, I only remember seeing the YSR50 and the RG50 in this country.

Still see them up Box Hill occasionally, but a rare sight in the 90's, even rarer now.......

[andrewsmith]

Oi SH

Get cracking

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[squirrel_hunter]

Well it looks like I haven't been working on the bike, and well yes that is correct. However in my defence I have had a reasonable reason that will all become clear in a later update. In summary there are a few things that I haven't posted about, but a lot of my spare time has been taken up with something else that will eventually enable progress here.

Just to tease you a little, footpegs were sourced, but didn't meet my standards, things are afoot as above. The petrol tank went from idea number 1 to idea number 2, followed closely by number 3 that was purchased but is likely not to be used, and then idea 4 which was then made to my specification. This requires further modification as part of that idea, but when coupled with the fairings idea 5 has been spawned, though I'm not sure this will be what I want.

In simple terms, fairings, footpegs, petrol tank, induction, and controls are all that remains to do. Less than an afternoons work for someone who knows what they are doing. Might take me a little longer then...

[squirrel_hunter]

Right bit of a gap in progress again. That wasn't exactly planned. What I intended to do was to update with what had taken my time with the first gap in progress and just as I was about to something else happened which has taken a fair bit of my time. However both of these events will enable me to progress with this build.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2056_zpskhupw6bn.jpg

Thats all rather cryptic I admit, I just like building the suspense. And I would explain, but I have discovered that there are a couple of little things that I added to the bike without providing a write up. So here we go again then.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2063_zpshtmy5sus.jpg

When I took the hubs to be stripped of paint I took a couple of other little bits with me as I intended to refresh them. One of these bits was the side stand. I put this to one side for a bit while I did the wheels and pulled the frame together. I was just intending to repaint the stand but when I picked it up I nearly slipped a disc due to the weight so I had an idea, I grabbed a bit of 32mm aluminium rod and headed down to the Makerspace.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2064_zpsutrdjoeo.jpg

The first step was to turn part of the rod down to 18mm and put a shoulder on it to blend it to the 32mm outer. Then it was onto the mill to flatten out a seat for the bolt and to mill a channel for the frame to slip into. Next it was a simple task to drill and tap a thread for the bolt.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2065_zpsw2ofugwg.jpg

I needed to round the corner of the top of the stand so that it would miss the spring pin on rotation and this was achieved with a corner rounding end mill. All that remained was to cut the stand to length at the correct angle and create a foot from a small bit of plate before turning my attention to the kick bar and the spring retainer. These were slightly more complicated to make as they needed a ball rounding attachment for the lathe.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2074_zps7bbmbt0b.jpg

The final step was to weld the 4 pieces together. Unfortunately this isn't something I could do so shipped them off to the chap who helped with my TZR250 crankcase who did a wonderful job of sticking the bits together.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/DSC_2113_zps42c5ux2i.jpg

Now that all sounded rather simple. But I'm far to honest, it was a lot of hard work. It was somewhere in the region of 40 hours work at the lathe and mill along with 5 attempts at it as I tried different tools and techniques. But I'm pleased with the results. Its not perfect, I think the angle is out by a degree or two, some of the rounding could be better as I wasn't successful with a rotary table, and the stand is over engineered as its solid but its still a good weight saving and a cool little custom part that I've made.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/squirrel_hunters_photos/Project%20500GP/20190214_202934_zpscsra4dpk.jpg

However I think this is on the limit of what the little 3-in-1 machine can do...

[garynortheast]

That's a very nice looking piece SH!

[Othen]

Wow! How cool is this.


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[Othen]

This is such a cool project, I’ve just read the whole thread whilst eating my breakfast at the Samuel Lloyd and waiting for a car to be serviced - I enjoyed it all. I might read the TZR thread next.

This was first class, well done.

Alan


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